An absolute classic. Led pitches 2, 4 and 6. We started slightly to the left of the normal start to avoid a snow bank. Most of the good holds on pitch 6 were soaking wet which made for an entertaining lead. Both pitches 6 and 7 are longer than the lengths recorded in the rockfax guide book. Had a comedy fall and slide descending the snow bank in rock shoes at the end of the day as did the two Swiss climbers who followed shortly after. It's quicker to approach the climb going right of the forest at the end of Djupfjord as per the pillaren route rather than the way indicated in the rockfax guide.
MD - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/15 with Jo
Fantastic route. Worth an early start to get there first after 1.5 hour walk in. Interesting start round the snow and traverse in from the left to lead p1. P2 a tough steep hand crack but p3 is magnificent. P4 tricky route finding and p5 another long crack that starts steep then gets too thin even for my fingers. Thank god hold just when you need it at the top. P6 with sparse protection, overlaps and wet wrinkles and p7 a slabby left rising wrinkle to looser choss at the top. Bolts and chains on top of a large boulder at the top, a few feet below the two bolts and no ab chains you see from much lower down. Ab using bolts for p7 to top of p4 but head far right (facing in) to use alternate bolts to those in the rope snagging corner below. Ab back down full route not an option unless you want to leave gear - no bolts p1-3.
Happy Wanderer - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/15 with Mike D
Little AndyH - AltLd - Jun/15
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/14
Timothy Miller - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/14 with James Mortimer
Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jul/14
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 23/Jun/14
John Nuttall - Lead - 06/Jun/14 with Sharon
Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/13
Led pitches 1, 4, 7. Pitches 6, 7 were a bit damp.
cameron_hall - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/13 with Jacob Davies, Will Benfold
will_benfold - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/13 with Jacob Davies, Cameron
Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jul/13
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 19/Jul/13
chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/13
Pitches 1/3/5/7. P5 was one of the most enjoyable pitches of climbing ever.
mes32 - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/13 with Chris
Intimidating for someone with a lack of jamming experience, but you soon realise how straight forward it is when you find the crack takes cam after cam after cam, and the rock offers superb friction. Lead P1,3,5. Rapped off after pitch 5, as P6 looked sparsely protected. Route probably equates to VS overall.
Merlin - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/13 with Dave Tait
Probably the best route I have seconded. Lead first pitch. Last pitch almost 50m. Abseiled in 5 pitches, using chains to the bottom on 50m ropes.
inspiration_needed - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/13 with Mat Cooper
Hidden - AltLd - Jul/13
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/13
ferdia - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/13 with Rozzy
Amazing climb and great variation of slab work if top 2 pitches are included. Why some people give up at Pitch 5, I'll never know. Good stuff.
chrisdevon - 2nd - 12/Jun/13
Timo Austino - Lead - Jun/13 with Dave Bart
Lead P1,3 and 5. Dead good but would have been much better if it wasn't for the heat. Very sore feet making the same jamming move time and time again.
Didn't bother with P6 and p7
James Oswald - 2013
Hidden - AltLd - 20/Aug/12
Quite an introducion to Lofoten rock. Felt hard but probably the result of not climbing for 6 weeks and then coming to Lofoten!
Steven Andrews - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/12 with Delphine
Hidden - Lead - 14/Aug/12
Graceful - Aug/12 with laurence
Coel Hellier - AltLd - 27/Jul/12 with Robert Durran
Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 19/Jul/12 with Simon Tiplady
Lead odd pitches. Stopped after P5 since not enjoying it and the others abb'd off, should have done one more pitch really
Batt - AltLd dnf - 12/Jul/12 with James Hoyes
Abseiled off after pitch 5.
Hoyes - AltLd dnf - 11/Jul/12 with Rachel B
Led P2, P4 & P5
mtempest - AltLd - 11/Jul/12 with Dan Lane
P1 and 3. we abbed off after P5 because the climbing gets less good and there were three VERY slow parties infront which we didn't want to be waiting behind on the abseils. I don't really enjoy jamming but i loved it!
Dan Lane - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/12 with Mike Tempest
Hidden - AltLd - 10/Jul/12
ColinD - AltLd - Jul/12 with Seth Barber
cymjt - Jul/12
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/12
Led P3+6. The best HS in the world. Outstanding climbing in a stunning situation. Pitch 6 is worthwhile, although confusingly not a crack, but P7 is a bit pointless.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/12 with Claire, Simon
Amazing route, one of the best at its grade anywhere. I would challenge even the staunchest non-jammer not to enjoy crack climbing like this!
climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/12 with Andy
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/12
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/12
Marcus Lead Pitches 1, 3 & 5 while I lead pitches 2, 4 & 6.The route was fairly easy apart from the initial crack climb at pitch There was a slight issue with the Initially Abseil back down to start of Pitch 6 to avoid ropes being eaten by the cracks, then directly of to the right of the actual climb to find another abseil point which is slightly out of view. 55m walk and same out...
Carl Simmons - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/12 with Marcus Ross, Kev Eccles
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/12
With Carl Simmons and Kev Eccles
I lead odd pitches, abbed off at the top of the 5th!
marcusmarcus1 - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/12 with A Student (Work)
I led pitch 1,2 and 4, Glen did 3,5 and 6, we didn't bother with the last pitch as the group ahead said it wasn't very good so we abbed off. There is a new ab line to the right of the one shown in the book to avoid the common rope eating crack. Awesome route!!!
ashsleight - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/12 with Glen bloomer
Brilliant climb with superb protection. 5th pitch is one of the best I've ever climbed...anywhere! 6 th pitch damp but very good.
Zoomer - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/12 with Ash Sleight
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 14/Jun/12
Hidden - AltLd - 14/Jun/12
Amazing jamming the whole route. If going out get this done either early in the day to avoid queues or late in the date and get sunlight.
Gibson27 - AltLd O/S - Jun/12
chris_B - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/11 with Louise Atkin
louby - AltLd - 17/Jul/11 with Chris Burn
Excellent route. We did all 7 pitches and found top 2 worhwhile. Only just managed with 50m ropes.
Ken Taylor - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/11 with John Hollingworth, Ian Bradley
Hidden - AltLd - 13/Jul/11
Superb easy jamming route. All 7 pitches are quality!
Conan - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/11 with Paul Farish
Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/11
Hidden - 2nd - 10/Jul/11
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 04/Jul/11
Anna_wells - AltLd - Jul/11 with Ali Clarke
cat22 - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Mike
Lead even-numbered pitches. Pitch 6 has little protection. Finished in the midnight sun. Awesome!
JenDurden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/11 with Max
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/11
I led 'even' pitches
John Tanner - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/11 with mrstarwarsman
mrstarwarsman - AltLd - 06/Jun/11 with john tanner
It may be easy but this is a contender for the best route in the world.
Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - Jun/11 with Glynne Andrew
Snecos - 2011
bridget143 - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/10 with Toby Dunford
tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/10 with Bridget Hall
Danhan - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/10 with Mostyn, Nick
Hidden - Lead - 08/Aug/10
Andrew1 - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Hulda
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/10
Impossible. Too many people on it 24 hours a day.
mattcyp88 - Lead dnf - 16/Jul/10 with Harry Martin, Thomas Van Boeckel, Ian
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 13/Jul/10
Hidden - AltLd rpt - Jul/10
had rained overnight, set off from carpark about 15.00 and started route about 17.00 Got stuck behind a slow moving Swedish team and got back to the carpark about 23.30. Excellent route despite the delays. Celebrtaed with a few beers at the NNKK bar which closed at 01.00!
Pete Nugent - AltLd - 20/Jun/10 with Chris Vernon
Hidden - 2010
I lead Odd pitches, Geli lead the evens
SGD - AltLd - 26/Aug/09 with Angelika Renner
naine - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/09 with SGD
joeydurkin - AltLd - 10/Aug/09 with Marshall, Rad
led pitches 2,4,6. Had to reclimb pitch 5 due to stuck ropes, awesome route, a piece of cake
Dr Caterpillar - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/09 with Alan Sage
Excellent climb, went early to avoid crouds and the sun
John Roe - AltLd - 03/Aug/09 with Steve Wilcox
Graham Westbrook - AltLd - Aug/09
Theeni - AltLd O/S - Aug/09 with Matt Kemp
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/09
Hidden - AltLd - 22/Jul/09
Roch - AltLd - 20/Jul/09 with MRT
richardlong78 - Lead - 20/Jul/09 with Martin Coleman
Excellent route, fantastic climbing at MVS, very protectable, except for a few moves at the start of the 6th pitch through the overlap. 7 pitches up, 5 abs down, all from bolted anchors. First 3 abs are down the line of the route, and then you drop into the black arch for the last 2 abs.
Strongly recommend starting the route by 9am or after 3 pm to avoid massive queues.
Andy Chubb - AltLd - 11/Jul/09 with Guy Hustinx
Led p2, 4, 6. Missed out p7 as many people seem to do.
Blisco - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/09 with Peter Skan
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/09
Pitches 1,3,5. Pitch 5 could not be better at the grade!!
chiverstom - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/09 with Dave Turner
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/09
it did very nearly eat my rope indeed
Joris.Roulleau - Lead - Jul/09 with Libby Blundell
AJ007 - AltLd - Jul/09 with Michael P
Daniel Armitage - AltLd - 29/Jun/09 with Charlotte Armitage
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/09
dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/09 with helen gibson
tuukka - AltLd - 17/Jun/09 with Hanna
Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/09 with Andy Inglis
4 star VS. Excellent.
andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/09 with Ally Fulton
Henrik - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/09 with Maria
cali1001 - AltLd O/S - Jun/09 with jocke
Hidden - 2009
What a great route!
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/08 with Steve Gray & Carol Fowles
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/08
Hidden - AltLd - 13/Jul/08
Ing - AltLd - 11/Jul/08 with Stevie G & James
oor wullie - 09/Jul/08 with Risto kalampa
Reversed P7 and abseiled from top of P6.
Repeated with Lauri 2011
RAK - AltLd - 09/Jul/08 with Tim R.
Gustav - AltLd - Jul/08 with BeerMonkey
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/08
biggianthead - 30/Jun/08 with T
Descent info in the guide is a bit wonky, but the descent is obvious once you get on it, down the top few pitches then off to the side via a belay on the black arch. The lower stances aren't bolted so you can't abseil down the route as it states.
Alan James - UKC and UKH - AltLd - 17/Jun/08 with Mark Glaister
First five pitches were good. Last two were poor.
TonyB - AltLd - 03/Jun/08 with Simon
Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/07
lead pitch 4 and 5
Tim W - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/07 with Ali Kennedy, Jamie Moss
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/07
Previously led in August 2002 with Jim and Jussi, worth going back for! pitch 3 and 5 are awesome jamming cracks. Watch for getting ropes stuck on the ab! 1st time in 2002 got them stuck in the 1st ab (in the offwidth) and this time got stuck after the 2nd ab in a crack.. had to jug up the ropes for 60m to free them :(
Mattyk - AltLd rpt - 02/Aug/07 with Ali K
Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/07
Elsier - 2nd O/S - Jul/07 with Stuart
stack_attack - Lead O/S - Jul/07
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/06
started raining on 3rd pitch
decs - AltLd dnf - Jun/06 with Steve
Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jun/06
dave o - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Julia H
graniterocks - Jun/06
Fredrik Nyberg - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/05 with Elin Eriksson
Bad Mongo - AltLd - Jul/05
Jody - AltLd O/S - May/05 with Erik
Steve Lenartowicz - Lead - Jul/04 with Clare
Erkke - AltLd O/S - 2004 with Anders, Jody
Jim Brooke - AltLd - 2004 with James Latham
frotveit - AltLd - 20/Jul/03 with Lisa
I think the crag may have another name - Pillaren? Fabulous crag, reminiscent of Glacier Point Apron in Yosemite
chrishedgehog - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/03 with Clare Wilkie
agtoni - AltLd - 2003 with Toni L
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/02 with Andy Hyslop
TobyA - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/98 with Heidi, Elina