(Only Bilberries) A pure classic and, despite its distance from the road, it is hugely popular. The name is Norwegian for a task of no great difficulty, obviously it refers to the actual climb and not the walk in.1) 4, 26m. Start up a small slab and move up to a shallow left-facing corner. Up this, or climb a thin finger-crack on the right, to reach a good ledge at the base of a main crack.2) 5-, 34m. Finger and hand jam up the fantastic crack above to a small belay stance where the angle of the rock lessens. Cams helpful at the belay.3) 5-, 32m. Continue up the V-groove, which steepens and becomes increasingly awkward. When the crack inside the groove becomes too thin, step out right around the arete into another crack. Climb up this to a good belay at flakes and a ledge.4) 5-, 28m. Layback the flake wedged inside the V-groove above until you reach several loose chockstones. Now step delicately to the right around the corner into a hidden crack and climb this to more flakes and another good stance.5) 5-, 40m. Continue up the single, sustained crack system splitting the upper slab - elegant finger and hand jamming up perfect rock. When the crack finally thins, climb to the right to a bolt and chain belay to the left of a huge flake. 6) 5-, 40m. An unlikely looking pitch with excellent climbing. Climb up and move left to pass a small roof. Step back right and follow a shallow groove and crack system more or less straight up the upper slab to a small belay stance with a two bolt belay.7) 4-, 50m. One last pitch leads up the easier slab to reach a belay at the base of the cliff's steeper headwall. Beware of loose rock on this final pitch and the fact there will be climbers below. © Rockfax
T Hansen, I Raastad 1986
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Bob Peters||28/Jul||AltLd O/S||
P4,5,6 - what a day out. First on it after rain, P6&7 a bit soggy, 6 quite scary as a result. Lots of parties below so opted not to complete loose P7. Swam in the lake on the way home. Magic day.
|Paul Figg||10/Jul||AltLd O/S||
yeah, this one IS really good! miles and miles of easy jamming. must have been a line of ropes up it all day, but was nice and sociable at least.
An absolute classic. Led pitches 2, 4 and 6. We started slightly to the left of the normal start to avoid a snow bank. Most of the good holds on pitch 6 were soaking wet which made for an entertaining lead. Both pitches 6 and 7 are longer than the lengths recorded in the rockfax guide book. Had a comedy fall and slide descending the snow bank in rock shoes at the end of the day as did the two Swiss climbers who followed shortly after. It's quicker to approach the climb going right of the forest at the end of Djupfjord as per the pillaren route rather than the way indicated in the rockfax guide.
|Happy Wanderer||18/Jun||AltLd O/S||
Fantastic route. Worth an early start to get there first after 1.5 hour walk in. Interesting start round the snow and traverse in from the left to lead p1. P2 a tough steep hand crack but p3 is magnificent. P4 tricky route finding and p5 another long crack that starts steep then gets too thin even for my fingers. Thank god hold just when you need it at the top. P6 with sparse protection, overlaps and wet wrinkles and p7 a slabby left rising wrinkle to looser choss at the top. Bolts and chains on top of a large boulder at the top, a few feet below the two bolts and no ab chains you see from much lower down. Ab using bolts for p7 to top of p4 but head far right (facing in) to use alternate bolts to those in the rope snagging corner below. Ab back down full route not an option unless you want to leave gear - no bolts p1-3.
|Timothy Miller||16/Jul/14||AltLd O/S|
Led pitches 1, 4, 7. Pitches 6, 7 were a bit damp.
Jacob Davies, Will Benfold
Jacob Davies, Cameron
Pitches 1/3/5/7. P5 was one of the most enjoyable pitches of climbing ever.
Intimidating for someone with a lack of jamming experience, but you soon realise how straight forward it is when you find the crack takes cam after cam after cam, and the rock offers superb friction. Lead P1,3,5. Rapped off after pitch 5, as P6 looked sparsely protected. Route probably equates to VS overall.
Probably the best route I have seconded. Lead first pitch. Last pitch almost 50m. Abseiled in 5 pitches, using chains to the bottom on 50m ropes.
Amazing climb and great variation of slab work if top 2 pitches are included. Why some people give up at Pitch 5, I'll never know. Good stuff.
Lead P1,3 and 5. Dead good but would have been much better if it wasn't for the heat. Very sore feet making the same jamming move time and time again. Didn't bother with P6 and p7
|Steven Andrews||16/Aug/12||Lead O/S||
Quite an introducion to Lofoten rock. Felt hard but probably the result of not climbing for 6 weeks and then coming to Lofoten!
Lead odd pitches. Stopped after P5 since not enjoying it and the others abb'd off, should have done one more pitch really
Abseiled off after pitch 5.
Led P2, P4 & P5
|Dan Lane||11/Jul/12||AltLd O/S||
P1 and 3. we abbed off after P5 because the climbing gets less good and there were three VERY slow parties infront which we didn't want to be waiting behind on the abseils. I don't really enjoy jamming but i loved it!
|victim of mathematics||28/Jun/12||AltLd O/S||
Led P3+6. The best HS in the world. Outstanding climbing in a stunning situation. Pitch 6 is worthwhile, although confusingly not a crack, but P7 is a bit pointless.
Amazing route, one of the best at its grade anywhere. I would challenge even the staunchest non-jammer not to enjoy crack climbing like this!
|Carl Simmons||22/Jun/12||AltLd O/S||
Marcus Lead Pitches 1, 3 & 5 while I lead pitches 2, 4 & 6.The route was fairly easy apart from the initial crack climb at pitch There was a slight issue with the Initially Abseil back down to start of Pitch 6 to avoid ropes being eaten by the cracks, then directly of to the right of the actual climb to find another abseil point which is slightly out of view. 55m walk and same out...
Marcus Ross, Kev Eccles
With Carl Simmons and Kev Eccles I lead odd pitches, abbed off at the top of the 5th! Superb climb!
A Student (Work)
I led pitch 1,2 and 4, Glen did 3,5 and 6, we didn't bother with the last pitch as the group ahead said it wasn't very good so we abbed off. There is a new ab line to the right of the one shown in the book to avoid the common rope eating crack. Awesome route!!!
Brilliant climb with superb protection. 5th pitch is one of the best I've ever climbed...anywhere! 6 th pitch damp but very good.
Amazing jamming the whole route. If going out get this done either early in the day to avoid queues or late in the date and get sunlight.
|Ken Taylor||16/Jul/11||AltLd O/S||
Excellent route. We did all 7 pitches and found top 2 worhwhile. Only just managed with 50m ropes.
John Hollingworth, Ian Bradley
Superb easy jamming route. All 7 pitches are quality!
Lead even-numbered pitches. Pitch 6 has little protection. Finished in the midnight sun. Awesome!
|John Tanner||06/Jun/11||AltLd O/S||
I led 'even' pitches
|Derek Ryden||?/Jun/11||AltLd O/S||
It may be easy but this is a contender for the best route in the world.
Impossible. Too many people on it 24 hours a day.
Harry Martin, Thomas Van Boeckel, Ian
had rained overnight, set off from carpark about 15.00 and started route about 17.00 Got stuck behind a slow moving Swedish team and got back to the carpark about 23.30. Excellent route despite the delays. Celebrtaed with a few beers at the NNKK bar which closed at 01.00!
I lead Odd pitches, Geli lead the evens
|Dr Caterpillar||06/Aug/09||AltLd O/S||
led pitches 2,4,6. Had to reclimb pitch 5 due to stuck ropes, awesome route, a piece of cake
Excellent climb, went early to avoid crouds and the sun
Excellent route, fantastic climbing at MVS, very protectable, except for a few moves at the start of the 6th pitch through the overlap. 7 pitches up, 5 abs down, all from bolted anchors. First 3 abs are down the line of the route, and then you drop into the black arch for the last 2 abs. Strongly recommend starting the route by 9am or after 3 pm to avoid massive queues.
Led p2, 4, 6. Missed out p7 as many people seem to do.
Pitches 1,3,5. Pitch 5 could not be better at the grade!!
it did very nearly eat my rope indeed
|dan gibson||19/Jun/09||AltLd O/S||
4 star VS. Excellent.
|Different Steve||28/Jul/08||AltLd O/S||
What a great route!
Steve Gray & Carol Fowles
Stevie G & James
Reversed P7 and abseiled from top of P6. Repeated with Lauri 2011
|Alan James - UKC and UKH||17/Jun/08||AltLd||
Descent info in the guide is a bit wonky, but the descent is obvious once you get on it, down the top few pitches then off to the side via a belay on the black arch. The lower stances aren't bolted so you can't abseil down the route as it states.
First five pitches were good. Last two were poor.
|Tim W||20/Aug/07||AltLd O/S||
lead pitch 4 and 5
Previously led in August 2002 with Jim and Jussi, worth going back for! pitch 3 and 5 are awesome jamming cracks. Watch for getting ropes stuck on the ab! 1st time in 2002 got them stuck in the 1st ab (in the offwidth) and this time got stuck after the 2nd ab in a crack.. had to jug up the ropes for 60m to free them :(
started raining on 3rd pitch
|dave o||?/Jun/06||Lead O/S|
|Fredrik Nyberg||05/Jul/05||Lead O/S||
I think the crag may have another name - Pillaren? Fabulous crag, reminiscent of Glacier Point Apron in Yosemite
|Jonathan Lagoe - UKC||26/Jun/02||AltLd O/S||