Highland > Polldubh Crags, Glen Nevis >
 
Secretaries' Super Direct*** HVS 4c,5a

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[Jacqui P fleeing the Midges on Secretaries Super Direct HVS, 1 kb]50m, 2 pitches. Very exciting slab climbing that could give HVS leaders nightmares and cold sweats, starting on a comfy "spectators ridge" on the frontal slab. P1 4c - Excellent teetering above the void with reasonable climbing and instant exposure leads to the easier rib and belay in the break. P2 5a - Place all your cams in the sharp flake and use it to pull on to the slab. Smear and balance up this - crux, serious fall potential - to a good hold and much easier climbing up and onto the next slab to finish.

Ticklists: Best slab climbs of the UK, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes.

Photo: Jacqui P fleeing the Midges on Secretaries Super Direct HVS © AlH
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 95 logbooks, and on 18 wishlists.

arose - Lead - 02/Apr/14 with Alfie Tipler, Hannah Francis

This felt nails!
Tightsgirl - 2nd - 02/Apr/14 with Ali Rose, Alfie Tipler

First HVS lead. Found the second pitch a bit thin and desperate, though looking at the description I might have been too far right.
planetmarshall - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/13 with Matthew

As one pitch, the 2nd seamed pretty thin and under graded or maybe I should have been more on the arÍte?! Excellent
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 29/May/13 with Maia

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/May/13

Hidden - Lead - 19/May/13

Climbed with eve
Tim Hamlet - AltLd - 30/Apr/13

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 05/Apr/13 with John

The Big Sender - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/12 with fiona mellor, morgan trigg

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/12

Triggalicious - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/12 with fiona mellor, Tom E

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12

P2 only. Spooky
Liam Ingram - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Rob Askew

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Apr/11

burto - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11 with hertha

lead 1st pitch
Hertha - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Burto

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Apr/11

gforce - Lead rpt - 23/Apr/11 with Emma

Lead 2nd pitch (crux). Lovely climbing. gear was a little spaced out but all there. Watch out for some of the loose flakes higher on route.
Stuzz - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/11 with Graham

Hidden - AltLd RP - 17/Apr/11

E2 *. Dangerous sandbag.
Ian Jones - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Tim Clarke

Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Ferdia

lead first pitch
ferdia - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Andy

isi_o - 2nd - 08/Apr/11 with Louisa Reynolds

Great slab climbing, wee bit bold on the the second pitch.
isi_o - Lead - 23/Mar/11 with Gillian Culshaw

adie84 - 2011

Danny Bags - 2011

glenngordon - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/10 with patryk halinowski

mikemartin - AltLd - 09/Jun/10

jack_eadie - AltLd - 09/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd - 18/May/10

westaway - Lead O/S - 12/May/10

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Apr/10

Led 2nd pitch
Captain Solo - AltLd - 11/Apr/10 with Ewan

PMCV - Lead - 09/Apr/10 with Mark

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/10

cat22 - 2nd - 20/Mar/10 with Mike

colinthrelfall - 2010

Hidden - 2010

AlexD - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09 with joeurwin

footwork V important on mica schist. Still getting to grips with it!
joeurwin - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/09 with alex

Moonstone Hippy - 2nd - 06/Jun/09 with Johnny

auchtubhmor1 - 02/Jun/09 with Greg

gareth scott borthwick - Lead O/S - 29/May/09 with tom thorn

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/May/09

GScot38 - Lead O/S - 21/May/09

French Erick - AltLd O/S - 17/May/09 with Alex Heude

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/09

Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with mal_meech

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/09

BRUCESTRAC - 2009

Johann - AltLd O/S - 2009

Coldest rock climb of my life!
Steve Perry - AltLd - Dec/08 with Lorraine McCall

Neil Mackenzie - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/08 with Al

Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/08 with Malcolm Airey

Run outs slab, huge break to climb over, crazy booming flake. Good but very strange climbing.
andymoin - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/08 with robbie

R0bbie - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/08 with andymoin

mike71 - AltLd O/S - Jun/08 with ronnie

Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 12/May/08 with Lee Mercer

Lovely slab climbing with an amazing detached flake.
clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 12/May/08 with Ed Babington

Hidden - Lead - May/08

mulletcocktail2000 - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/08 with paul

Paulww - AltLd - 20/Apr/08 with Ryan

pimpy - Lead dnf - Apr/08 with craig mcleish

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/08

TrollJester - AltLd O/S - 2008 with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's

TrollJester - AltLd O/S - 2008 with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's

tallthinmonkey - 2nd - Sep/07 with Ben Wallace

French Erick - AltLd - 15/Apr/07 with Dave Kerr

Dave Kerr - AltLd - 15/Apr/07 with Erick Baillot

Ken Applegate - AltLd O/S - Apr/07 with Dave Kirby

dodfoster - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/06 with sophie heron

dougs1232 - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/06 with Finlay Wild

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/06

dave o - Lead O/S - 20/May/06 with Julia H

jim robertson - 2006

john irving - 2006

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jul/05

Rich led crux
Jamie B - AltLd - Jun/05 with Rich Parker

Howard1 - Mar/05 with Fi

Chad123 - Lead O/S - 2005 with Various

hedgehog77 - AltLd - 07/May/03

Cassidy - AltLd - 13/Jul/02 with David Cassidy

kjbix - AltLd - 25/Aug/00 with Rob Gray

luckyjim - Lead - Apr/00 with L Ellett

stugreen75 - AltLd O/S - 2000 with Andy

gypsy3006 - 1999

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1998

greenroom - 1997

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/93

brianrunner - Lead - 1990 with gordon innes

Dave Douglas - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/88 with Bruce Strachan, Stuart Cameron

graham lawrie - 1987

Chris Craggs - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Owen W-G, CM1992, snakebite, johnkeith, JonmapDL, Hidden, BWoodward, Mr.Billiams, Adam1973, Hidden, Ropeboy, Jimmy56, The Pylon King, Julia Chatterton, Ropeboy, Ian Jones, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 41
hard E10 of 21
E12 of 21
easy E13 of 21
hard HVS2 of 21
HVS13 of 21
easy HVS1 of 21
hard VS0 of 21
VS0 of 21
easy VS0 of 21
3 Stars11 of 20
2 Stars7 of 20
1 Star2 of 20
0 Stars0 of 20
Bag of .....0 of 20
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead23 of 95 (24.2%)
Followed14 of 95 (14.7%)
Alt Leads45 of 95 (47.4%)
Unknown13 of 95 (13.7%)

'Climbed'44 of 95 (46.3%)
clean O/S48 of 95 (50.5%)
clean rpt1 of 95 (1.1%)
clean RP1 of 95 (1.1%)
dnf1 of 95 (1.1%)