UKC

69m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fantastic excursion through the black walls, tackling the central and tallest section of wall.
1) 4c, 18m. Start just to the right of the overhang above the start of Zig Zag. Climb the black wall past small ledges for 9m. Step right and head up the wall to a block belay on the right.
2) 5b, 25m. Climb the steep wall on the left behind the belay and gain a rightward-trending rampline. Follow this until it butts up against a capping roof. Make an exciting pull through the left side of the roof and climb straight up to a ledge. Wander rightwards along the ledge to a block belay.
3) 4b, 20m. Step back left and climb the groove above the belay to the roof, which is taken via the large shattered weakness. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales To Do List

Feedback

User Date Notes
John Cuthbert 24 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Even in the best of circumstances and conditions, a fair expression of the route’s character would be both valuable and warranted, but the guidebook write-up and the route comments below lead me to wonder what on earth is going on. This route is far more trad than most E1s in the Pass, and to translate this into some both meaningful and appropriate, that amounts to a route that is variously weird, awkward, bold, very bold off shite gear at the crux, dirty, slippery, wet (yes very wet), and with as much suspect rock as you could wish for. As for 2 stars? Come on, that’s just nuts…
Show beta
βeta: Even in the best of circumstances and conditions, a fair expression of the route’s character would be both valuable and warranted, but the guidebook write-up and the route comments below lead me to wonder what on earth is going on. This route is far more trad than most E1s in the Pass, and to translate this into some both meaningful and appropriate, that amounts to a route that is variously weird, awkward, bold, very bold off shite gear at the crux, dirty, slippery, wet (yes very wet), and with as much suspect rock as you could wish for. As for 2 stars? Come on, that’s just nuts…

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 40
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Super Direct

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Dinas Mot)

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