Arran > Cir Mhor (South Face) >
 
Labyrinth** VD

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120m, 6 pitches. This description has been written by a contributor and checked by the guidebook moderator- however, pitch variations and belay locations differ from many of the guidebook descriptions, but future climbers may find the beta contained here useful. Approach: Descend Pinnacle Gully (hidden between the pinnacles) and Sub Rosa Gully or ascend Sub Rosa Gully to the Upper East Face - ignore Old East(D)as a descent route, too grassy and dangerous. On the Upper East Face is an enormous 30m high 'boulder' the monolithic wall. On its [RIGHT] side is an alleyway formed by an enormous jammed block. 1, Enter the alleyway and up the ramp. An awkward off-width crack on the left leads to a grassy platform (21m). 2, There are two chimneys/jumbled crack systems on your right. Take the one to the left in the corner. Climb this gruntingly. Pass a level platform and move rightwards ignoring the cavernous upwards opening on your left. Follow the continuation of the crack to a steep sloping turf platform on your right. Belay (13m). 3, A traverse left seems unlikely at VD. But exists. There is an off-width horizontal crack above which leads to a square partly undercut corner. Descend slightly from the grass platform to awkwardly gain the wall, traverse leftwards (gear) and upwards to gain the off-width horizontal crack. Belay in the corner. (8m). 4, Ascend the crack above the undercut corner and scramble over turf ledges to belay at a standing stone in the depths of the Labyrinth (10m). 5i, Facing the crag, use the deep chimney on the right. Gain the initial chockstone and chimney up (scarce gear) EXIT THIS CHIMNEY HALF WAY UP cunningly to a flat grass platform on the left (facing the crag) - who knows what direction you'll be facing in that chimney. 5ii, In right hand corner of the platform is a chimney/crack system full of wedged chockstones. A tricky move gets you started. Thuggy moves upwards require care as ONE OF THE VERY BIG CHOCKSTONES IS NOT WEDGED AND COULD EASILY PULL OUT. Over chockstones and under last one to a classic through route - tweeds an advantage. (15m) 6. You are now beneath the prow either on a platform called the eyrie, or just below (if at mouth of through route). The wall to the left of the prow overhangs slightly. You can exit right of the prow at VD/severe initially on a traverse right and then up on grassy ledges. If you have got this far then you really should do the sensational VS4b direct finish which is the pitch of the climb: Staying close to the off-width climb over large boulders to the left of the prow until a corner at the headwall is reached with an off-width on your right. A classic layback is now required - the flake/flange on the wall in front can not be seen until up very close. Layback it commitingly (though there is gear) into the corner level with two horizontal leftwards breaks. Traverse these leftwards until deposited on a grass ledge. Up easily to join the final easy pitch of South Ridge Direct at a good belay above the traverse.
G C Curtis, H K Moneypenny 26/Sep/1943

Ticklists: Classic Rock.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 52 logbooks, and on 32 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/14

Horrible, wet, slippery, mossy rubbish. Without doubt the worst route I have done so far as a classic rock. Don't bother!!.
jon59 - Lead - 09/Aug/14

we followed description above (which is accurate) but too many pitches takes ages. Didn't do the through bit as it was slimy and awful so went over outside of chockstones, did direct finish. Bottom of route is not great, traverse and chockstone pitches are ok
lithos - AltLd - 20/Jul/14 with Pete Bradshaw

Another 'Epic' rock classic...I always think how can you grade this sort of climb? Cloud surrounding you, cold windy typical bank holiday weather really... This route has massive character, surprisingly there was nobody else on it all day! Queues for Sou wester slabs but nobody attempting this. If you were just a VD leader or even Severe think twice! The 'new' description that has been written is a little confusing, the traverse pitch should read 'traverse leftwards from the belay into the obvious corner and up! Pull on grass tufts to finish and belay' From this point unless your right into the crag literally you can't see the back and foot chimney this is tucked away on the right, the only thing you can see is the obvious crack system straight ahead, which is used after you've got up the 'tucked away' chimney. The top chockstone before the squeeze through is loose, you only really need this to belly flop onto! ;-) If that moves VD my knob's a carrot!! XS and through the squeeze, which I had to drag Ray through (due to his girth, sorry Ray only joking...;-) We did the 4b finish, again my knob's a carrot...i've done 5b's that have been easier and less committing, if you haven't any 'big gear' it would be a long runout...a beautiful pitch though, watch your drag/ropes jamming in the crack for the second as it'll eat your ropes and your second will be scared...you were still on one rope Ray! Lovely climb in atmospheric conditions go do it and have an adventure!
beds74 - AltLd - 24/May/14 with Ray Sparks

Ray Sparks - AltLd - 24/May/14 with paul

Struggle with a rucsac on!!
Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/13

mjackson - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13

The Big Sender - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with jamie sparks

Whoa! a tough, involving adventure, a good test of confidence for the VDiff leader. Did the direct finish which didn't seem any harder/less physical than the regular route!
JamieSparkes - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with Anne Peale, Tom Eadington

annep11 - 2nd O/S - 25/May/13 with Tom E, Jamie Sparkes

Had to lower back down the to the sopping wet chimney as one half rope got snagged just as I was desperately trying to work into the tunnel above.
richardashe - AltLd dog - 2013 with Mark Jackson

TheAndyBarker - 2013

Horrific!
Captain Solo - Solo - 12/Jul/12

Darrell Read - AltLd - 01/Apr/12 with Robbie King

robbiek - AltLd - 01/Apr/12 with Darrell Read

goadventure1 - 2012

mol - AltLd - 03/Jul/11 with Jesse

brianrunner - 2011

Felt like thesseus - there is definitely a minotaur in there somewhere. Second drew short straw bearing the rucksack. Gruntingly thrutchingly awesome! Direct finish was ace.
jimorothy - Lead - 16/Apr/10 with Rachel Crolla

Hidden - 2010

westaway - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09

We unfortunately ended up off-route and had a grassy adventure! Later we realised we had done several pitches of Easter route.
JdotP - AltLd O/S - May/09 with Krzysztof Gorgolewski

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/08

gordon henderson - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/08 with MRT

Mark Patterson made up three on a rope
John Roe - AltLd - 23/Aug/08 with Mike Ainsworth

mark88 - 2nd - 23/Aug/08 with Mike Ainsworth and John Roe

Rampikino - AltLd - 12/Jun/08 with Cat

Hidden - 2008

BALD EAGLE - AltLd - 11/Aug/06 with Christian Darr

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/01

BRUCESTRAC - Sep/00 with Jim Donaldson

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Jun/99

quite a lot of it. finished in the dark
colin milton - Lead - Sep/98 with anne dillon

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/94

Dave Kerr - AltLd - May/93 with Euan McCulloch

Hammy - AltLd - 30/Apr/93 with Colin Struthers

Old Tyke - 1993

Hidden - Lead - 31/May/92

Hidden - AltLd - 1992

Raggar - AltLd - 20/May/90 with Jon B

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990

mark-abz - AltLd - 13/Jul/89 with Terry ?

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Sep/86

That night a real gale demolished our tent and at 4.30am we were blown back down to Glen Rosa.
rogerskews - AltLd - 24/May/86 with Nigel Bond

Nigel Bond - Lead - 24/May/86 with Roger Skews

rohai545 - AltLd - Jul/85

Hidden - Solo - 31/May/85

Falko - AltLd O/S - 1985 with Al W.

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jun/81

Aptly named climb. Nice day on the finest granite around.
John Stenhouse - AltLd - Jul/72 with John Offord

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Voting
Total votes cast 23
hard HVD1 of 11
HVD0 of 11
easy HVD4 of 11
hard VD4 of 11
VD2 of 11
easy VD0 of 11
hard HD0 of 11
HD0 of 11
easy HD0 of 11
3 Stars5 of 12
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 52 (3.8%)
Lead8 of 52 (15.4%)
Followed2 of 52 (3.8%)
Alt Leads32 of 52 (61.5%)
Unknown8 of 52 (15.4%)

'Climbed'37 of 52 (71.2%)
clean O/S14 of 52 (26.9%)
dogged1 of 52 (1.9%)