120m, 6 pitches. This description has been written by a contributor and checked by the guidebook moderator- however, pitch variations and belay locations differ from many of the guidebook descriptions, but future climbers may find the beta contained here useful.
Approach: Descend Pinnacle Gully (hidden between the pinnacles) and Sub Rosa Gully or ascend Sub Rosa Gully to the Upper East Face - ignore Old East(D)as a descent route, too grassy and dangerous. On the Upper East Face is an enormous 30m high 'boulder' the monolithic wall. On its [RIGHT] side is an alleyway formed by an enormous jammed block.
1, Enter the alleyway and up the ramp. An awkward off-width crack on the left leads to a grassy platform (21m). 2, There are two chimneys/jumbled crack systems on your right. Take the one to the left in the corner. Climb this gruntingly. Pass a level platform and move rightwards ignoring the cavernous upwards opening on your left. Follow the continuation of the crack to a steep sloping turf platform on your right. Belay (13m). 3, A traverse left seems unlikely at VD. But exists. There is an off-width horizontal crack above which leads to a square partly undercut corner. Descend slightly from the grass platform to awkwardly gain the wall, traverse leftwards (gear) and upwards to gain the off-width horizontal crack. Belay in the corner. (8m). 4, Ascend the crack above the undercut corner and scramble over turf ledges to belay at a standing stone in the depths of the Labyrinth (10m). 5i, Facing the crag, use the deep chimney on the right. Gain the initial chockstone and chimney up (scarce gear) EXIT THIS CHIMNEY HALF WAY UP cunningly to a flat grass platform on the left (facing the crag) - who knows what direction you'll be facing in that chimney. 5ii, In right hand corner of the platform is a chimney/crack system full of wedged chockstones. A tricky move gets you started. Thuggy moves upwards require care as ONE OF THE VERY BIG CHOCKSTONES IS NOT WEDGED AND COULD EASILY PULL OUT. Over chockstones and under last one to a classic through route - tweeds an advantage. (15m) 6. You are now beneath the prow either on a platform called the eyrie, or just below (if at mouth of through route). The wall to the left of the prow overhangs slightly. You can exit right of the prow at VD/severe initially on a traverse right and then up on grassy ledges. If you have got this far then you really should do the sensational VS4b direct finish which is the pitch of the climb: Staying close to the off-width climb over large boulders to the left of the prow until a corner at the headwall is reached with an off-width on your right. A classic layback is now required - the flake/flange on the wall in front can not be seen until up very close. Layback it commitingly (though there is gear) into the corner level with two horizontal leftwards breaks. Traverse these leftwards until deposited on a grass ledge. Up easily to join the final easy pitch of South Ridge Direct at a good belay above the traverse.

G C Curtis, H K Moneypenny 26/Sep/1943

Ticklists: Classic Rock.

D.Russell 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Adam
Hidden 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
jon59 09/Aug/14 Lead

Horrible, wet, slippery, mossy rubbish. Without doubt the worst route I have done so far as a classic rock. Don't bother!!.

lithos 20/Jul/14 AltLd

we followed description above (which is accurate) but too many pitches takes ages. Didn't do the through bit as it was slimy and awful so went over outside of chockstones, did direct finish. Bottom of route is not great, traverse and chockstone pitches are ok

beds74 24/May/14 AltLd

Another 'Epic' rock classic...I always think how can you grade this sort of climb? Cloud surrounding you, cold windy typical bank holiday weather really... This route has massive character, surprisingly there was nobody else on it all day! Queues for Sou wester slabs but nobody attempting this. If you were just a VD leader or even Severe think twice! The 'new' description that has been written is a little confusing, the traverse pitch should read 'traverse leftwards from the belay into the obvious corner and up! Pull on grass tufts to finish and belay' From this point unless your right into the crag literally you can't see the back and foot chimney this is tucked away on the right, the only thing you can see is the obvious crack system straight ahead, which is used after you've got up the 'tucked away' chimney. The top chockstone before the squeeze through is loose, you only really need this to belly flop onto! ;-) If that moves VD my knob's a carrot!! XS and through the squeeze, which I had to drag Ray through (due to his girth, sorry Ray only joking...;-) We did the 4b finish, again my knob's a carrot...i've done 5b's that have been easier and less committing, if you haven't any 'big gear' it would be a long runout...a beautiful pitch though, watch your drag/ropes jamming in the crack for the second as it'll eat your ropes and your second will be scared...you were still on one rope Ray! Lovely climb in atmospheric conditions go do it and have an adventure!

with Ray Sparks
Ray Sparks 24/May/14 AltLd
with paul
Hidden ??/2014 -
Graham Westbrook 16/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Struggle with a rucsac on!!

mjackson 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
The Big Sender 25/May/13 AltLd O/S
JamieSparkes 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

Whoa! a tough, involving adventure, a good test of confidence for the VDiff leader. Did the direct finish which didn't seem any harder/less physical than the regular route!

annep11 25/May/13 2nd O/S
richardashe ??/2013 AltLd dog

Had to lower back down the to the sopping wet chimney as one half rope got snagged just as I was desperately trying to work into the tunnel above.

with Mark Jackson
TheAndyBarker ??/2013 -
Captain Solo 12/Jul/12 Solo


Darrell Read 01/Apr/12 AltLd
robbiek 01/Apr/12 AltLd
with Darrell Read
goadventure1 ??/2012 -
mol 03/Jul/11 AltLd
with Jesse
brianrunner ??/2011 -
jimorothy 16/Apr/10 Lead

Felt like thesseus - there is definitely a minotaur in there somewhere. Second drew short straw bearing the rucksack. Gruntingly thrutchingly awesome! Direct finish was ace.

with Rachel Crolla
Hidden ??/2010 -
westaway 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
JdotP ?/May/09 AltLd O/S

We unfortunately ended up off-route and had a grassy adventure! Later we realised we had done several pitches of Easter route.

with Krzysztof Gorgolewski
Hidden 24/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
gordon henderson 23/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with MRT
John Roe 23/Aug/08 AltLd

Mark Patterson made up three on a rope

mark88 23/Aug/08 2nd
with Mike Ainsworth and John Roe
Rampikino 12/Jun/08 AltLd
with Cat
Hidden ??/2008 -
BALD EAGLE 11/Aug/06 AltLd
with Christian Darr
Hidden 19/Oct/01 Lead O/S
with Jim Donaldson
Hidden 07/Jun/99 AltLd
colin milton ?/Sep/98 Lead

quite a lot of it. finished in the dark

with anne dillon
Hidden ?/Aug/94 AltLd
Dave Kerr ?/May/93 AltLd
with Euan McCulloch
Hammy 30/Apr/93 AltLd
with Colin Struthers
Old Tyke ??/1993 -
Hidden 31/May/92 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
Raggar 20/May/90 AltLd
with Jon B
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
mark-abz 13/Jul/89 AltLd
with Terry ?
Hidden 13/Sep/86 AltLd
rogerskews 24/May/86 AltLd

That night a real gale demolished our tent and at 4.30am we were blown back down to Glen Rosa.

Nigel Bond 24/May/86 Lead
with Roger Skews
rohai545 ?/Jul/85 AltLd
Hidden 31/May/85 Solo
Falko ??/1985 AltLd O/S
with Al W.
Hidden 27/Jun/81 AltLd
John Stenhouse ?/Jul/72 AltLd

Aptly named climb. Nice day on the finest granite around.

with John Offord
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
DanChad, BigHairyIan, dansmonkeytroubles, adamarchie, johnny_black7, Hidden, daftdazza, Hidden, Janester, robahalliday, Joris.Roulleau, steve.frankel, Sparrowmonkey, Hidden, uphillnow, Hidden, Hidden, ckmoffat, Jen80, Dustin, hcooper, Hidden, karinh, Hidden, holly138, cayteye, tobydunford, Ezy Ryder, the colonel, andrew300169, Badam, Hidden, JiveWeasel, Hidden, Hidden
High HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set