Arran > Cir Mhor (South Face) >
 
Labyrinth** VD

Adjacent Climbs
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The Rosetta Stone >>
120m, 6 pitches. This description has been written by a contributor and checked by the guidebook moderator- however, pitch variations and belay locations differ from many of the guidebook descriptions, but future climbers may find the beta contained here useful. Approach: Descend Pinnacle Gully (hidden between the pinnacles) and Sub Rosa Gully or ascend Sub Rosa Gully to the Upper East Face - ignore Old East(D)as a descent route, too grassy and dangerous. On the Upper East Face is an enormous 30m high 'boulder' the monolithic wall. On its [RIGHT] side is an alleyway formed by an enormous jammed block. 1, Enter the alleyway and up the ramp. An awkward off-width crack on the left leads to a grassy platform (21m). 2, There are two chimneys/jumbled crack systems on your right. Take the one to the left in the corner. Climb this gruntingly. Pass a level platform and move rightwards ignoring the cavernous upwards opening on your left. Follow the continuation of the crack to a steep sloping turf platform on your right. Belay (13m). 3, A traverse left seems unlikely at VD. But exists. There is an off-width horizontal crack above which leads to a square partly undercut corner. Descend slightly from the grass platform to awkwardly gain the wall, traverse leftwards (gear) and upwards to gain the off-width horizontal crack. Belay in the corner. (8m). 4, Ascend the crack above the undercut corner and scramble over turf ledges to belay at a standing stone in the depths of the Labyrinth (10m). 5i, Facing the crag, use the deep chimney on the right. Gain the initial chockstone and chimney up (scarce gear) EXIT THIS CHIMNEY HALF WAY UP cunningly to a flat grass platform on the left (facing the crag) - who knows what direction you'll be facing in that chimney. 5ii, In right hand corner of the platform is a chimney/crack system full of wedged chockstones. A tricky move gets you started. Thuggy moves upwards require care as ONE OF THE VERY BIG CHOCKSTONES IS NOT WEDGED AND COULD EASILY PULL OUT. Over chockstones and under last one to a classic through route - tweeds an advantage. (15m) 6. You are now beneath the prow either on a platform called the eyrie, or just below (if at mouth of through route). The wall to the left of the prow overhangs slightly. You can exit right of the prow at VD/severe initially on a traverse right and then up on grassy ledges. If you have got this far then you really should do the sensational VS4b direct finish which is the pitch of the climb: Staying close to the off-width climb over large boulders to the left of the prow until a corner at the headwall is reached with an off-width on your right. A classic layback is now required - the flake/flange on the wall in front can not be seen until up very close. Layback it commitingly (though there is gear) into the corner level with two horizontal leftwards breaks. Traverse these leftwards until deposited on a grass ledge. Up easily to join the final easy pitch of South Ridge Direct at a good belay above the traverse.
G C Curtis, H K Moneypenny 26/Sep/1943

Ticklists: Classic Rock.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 46 logbooks, and on 31 wishlists.

Struggle with a rucsac on!!
Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/13

mjackson - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13

The Big Sender - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with jamie sparks

Whoa! a tough, involving adventure, a good test of confidence for the VDiff leader. Did the direct finish which didn't seem any harder/less physical than the regular route!
JamieSparkes - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with Anne Peale, Tom Eadington

annep11 - 2nd O/S - 25/May/13 with Tom E, Jamie Sparkes

Had to lower back down the to the sopping wet chimney as one half rope got snagged just as I was desperately trying to work into the tunnel above.
richardashe - AltLd dog - 2013 with Mark Jackson

TheAndyBarker - 2013

Horrific!
Captain Solo - Solo - 12/Jul/12

Darrell Read - AltLd - 01/Apr/12 with Robbie King

robbiek - AltLd - 01/Apr/12 with Darrell Read

goadventure1 - 2012

mol - AltLd - 03/Jul/11 with Jesse

brianrunner - 2011

Felt like thesseus - there is definitely a minotaur in there somewhere. Second drew short straw bearing the rucksack. Gruntingly thrutchingly awesome! Direct finish was ace.
jimorothy - Lead - 16/Apr/10 with Rachel Crolla

Hidden - 2010

westaway - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09

We unfortunately ended up off-route and had a grassy adventure! Later we realised we had done several pitches of Easter route.
JdotP - AltLd O/S - May/09 with Krzysztof Gorgolewski

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/08

gordon henderson - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/08 with MRT

Mark Patterson made up three on a rope
John Roe - AltLd - 23/Aug/08 with Mike Ainsworth

mark88 - 2nd - 23/Aug/08 with Mike Ainsworth and John Roe

Rampikino - AltLd - 12/Jun/08 with Cat

Hidden - 2008

BALD EAGLE - AltLd - 11/Aug/06 with Christian Darr

GrahamUney - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/01 with Andy MacNaughton

BRUCESTRAC - Sep/00 with Jim Donaldson

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Jun/99

quite a lot of it. finished in the dark
colin milton - Lead - Sep/98 with anne dillon

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/94

Dave Kerr - AltLd - May/93 with Euan McCulloch

Hammy - AltLd - 30/Apr/93 with Colin Struthers

Old Tyke - 1993

Hidden - Lead - 31/May/92

Hidden - AltLd - 1992

Raggar - AltLd - 20/May/90 with Jon B

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990

mark-abz - AltLd - 13/Jul/89 with Terry ?

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Sep/86

That night a real gale demolished our tent and at 4.30am we were blown back down to Glen Rosa.
rogerskews - AltLd - 24/May/86 with Nigel Bond

Nigel Bond - Lead - 24/May/86 with Roger Skews

rohai545 - AltLd - Jul/85

Hidden - Solo - 31/May/85

Falko - AltLd O/S - 1985 with Al W.

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jun/81

Aptly named climb. Nice day on the finest granite around.
John Stenhouse - AltLd - Jul/72 with John Offord

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Voting
Total votes cast 17
hard HVD0 of 8
HVD0 of 8
easy HVD3 of 8
hard VD4 of 8
VD1 of 8
easy VD0 of 8
hard HD0 of 8
HD0 of 8
easy HD0 of 8
3 Stars4 of 9
2 Stars1 of 9
1 Star2 of 9
0 Stars1 of 9
Bag of .....1 of 9
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 46 (4.3%)
Lead7 of 46 (15.2%)
Followed2 of 46 (4.3%)
Alt Leads27 of 46 (58.7%)
Unknown8 of 46 (17.4%)

'Climbed'33 of 46 (71.7%)
clean O/S12 of 46 (26.1%)
dogged1 of 46 (2.2%)