we followed description above (which is accurate) but too many pitches takes ages. Didn't do the through bit as it was slimy and awful so went over outside of chockstones, did direct finish. Bottom of route is not great, traverse and chockstone pitches are oklithos - AltLd - 20/Jul/14 with Pete Bradshaw
Another 'Epic' rock classic...I always think how can you grade this sort of climb? Cloud surrounding you, cold windy typical bank holiday weather really...
This route has massive character, surprisingly there was nobody else on it all day! Queues for Sou wester slabs but nobody attempting this. If you were just a VD leader or even Severe think twice! The 'new' description that has been written is a little confusing, the traverse pitch should read 'traverse leftwards from the belay into the obvious corner and up! Pull on grass tufts to finish and belay' From this point unless your right into the crag literally you can't see the back and foot chimney this is tucked away on the right, the only thing you can see is the obvious crack system straight ahead, which is used after you've got up the 'tucked away' chimney.
The top chockstone before the squeeze through is loose, you only really need this to belly flop onto! ;-) If that moves VD my knob's a carrot!! XS and through the squeeze, which I had to drag Ray through (due to his girth, sorry Ray only joking...;-)
We did the 4b finish, again my knob's a carrot...i've done 5b's that have been easier and less committing, if you haven't any 'big gear' it would be a long runout...a beautiful pitch though, watch your drag/ropes jamming in the crack for the second as it'll eat your ropes and your second will be scared...you were still on one rope Ray! Lovely climb in atmospheric conditions go do it and have an adventure!
beds74 - AltLd - 24/May/14 with Ray Sparks
Ray Sparks - AltLd - 24/May/14 with paul
Struggle with a rucsac on!!
Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/13
mjackson - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13
The Big Sender - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with jamie sparks
Whoa! a tough, involving adventure, a good test of confidence for the VDiff leader. Did the direct finish which didn't seem any harder/less physical than the regular route!
JamieSparkes - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with Anne Peale, Tom Eadington
annep11 - 2nd O/S - 25/May/13 with Tom E, Jamie Sparkes
Had to lower back down the to the sopping wet chimney as one half rope got snagged just as I was desperately trying to work into the tunnel above.
richardashe - AltLd dog - 2013 with Mark Jackson
TheAndyBarker - 2013
Captain Solo - Solo - 12/Jul/12
Darrell Read - AltLd - 01/Apr/12 with Robbie King
robbiek - AltLd - 01/Apr/12 with Darrell Read
goadventure1 - 2012
mol - AltLd - 03/Jul/11 with Jesse
brianrunner - 2011
Felt like thesseus - there is definitely a minotaur in there somewhere. Second drew short straw bearing the rucksack. Gruntingly thrutchingly awesome! Direct finish was ace.
jimorothy - Lead - 16/Apr/10 with Rachel Crolla
Hidden - 2010
westaway - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09
We unfortunately ended up off-route and had a grassy adventure! Later we realised we had done several pitches of Easter route.
JdotP - AltLd O/S - May/09 with Krzysztof Gorgolewski
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/08
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/08
gordon henderson - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/08 with MRT
Mark Patterson made up three on a rope
John Roe - AltLd - 23/Aug/08 with Mike Ainsworth
mark88 - 2nd - 23/Aug/08 with Mike Ainsworth and John Roe
Rampikino - AltLd - 12/Jun/08 with Cat
Hidden - 2008
BALD EAGLE - AltLd - 11/Aug/06 with Christian Darr
GrahamUney - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/01 with Andy MacNaughton
BRUCESTRAC - Sep/00 with Jim Donaldson
Hidden - AltLd - 07/Jun/99
quite a lot of it. finished in the dark
colin milton - Lead - Sep/98 with anne dillon
Hidden - AltLd - Aug/94
Dave Kerr - AltLd - May/93 with Euan McCulloch
Hammy - AltLd - 30/Apr/93 with Colin Struthers
Old Tyke - 1993
Hidden - Lead - 31/May/92
Hidden - AltLd - 1992
Raggar - AltLd - 20/May/90 with Jon B
Steve Lenartowicz - 1990
mark-abz - AltLd - 13/Jul/89 with Terry ?
Hidden - AltLd - 13/Sep/86
That night a real gale demolished our tent and at 4.30am we were blown back down to Glen Rosa.
rogerskews - AltLd - 24/May/86 with Nigel Bond
Nigel Bond - Lead - 24/May/86 with Roger Skews
rohai545 - AltLd - Jul/85
Hidden - Solo - 31/May/85
Falko - AltLd O/S - 1985 with Al W.
Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jun/81
Aptly named climb. Nice day on the finest granite around.
John Stenhouse - AltLd - Jul/72 with John Offord