48m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Great rock, exhilarating moves and breath-taking exposure. Gain the right-hand end of the large terrace halfway up North Gully either by a scramble or by North Buttress. Belay just right of a large block.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb up right and go round the arete on the right. Climb a slab to a small ledge then follow the slab above. Continue up the curving groove to a large ledge.
2) 4b, 40m. Head right onto the nose and enjoy the air beneath your feet. Climb straight up to easier ground leading to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, North Wales Rock Graded List, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
joeflan 20/Sep Lead O/S
andycash 11/Sep AltLd O/S
with Ali Logan
Prof. Outdoors 24/Aug AltLd
with Wendy
James Worthington 06/Aug Lead

North buttress then led both pitches

with Emma
Blake 06/Aug Solo O/S

A bit short lived really - a lot of effort if you just go up for this. Only really 1 crux move - pitch 2 is nice and exposed, but very easy and over in minutes.

Matt Harmon 17/Jul AltLd O/S

led P1

Sarah Roscoe 17/Jul AltLd O/S

Led p2

Hidden 17/Jul 2nd
Dave Heaton 02/Jun Lead
Hidden 01/Jun Lead O/S
Lyndsay Superclimber 31/May AltLd O/S
with Ryan
Hidden 31/May AltLd
charlietorrance 30/May AltLd O/S

led P2.both pitches really nice, great exposure. P1 if the better pitch but good mantle shelf on P2.

j.anstee 29/May 2nd O/S
with Soren
Hidden 29/May Lead O/S
hornbywill 29/May Lead O/S

All pitches led. A mega link up with BVB.

Hidden 15/May Lead
Hidden 15/May 2nd
Fiona Hughes 15/May 2nd
with SP
martinbettridge06 14/May 2nd
Ian Saxton 14/May 2nd
Col Kingshott 14/May Lead O/S
jwpil 14/May Lead O/S
with Ben
Ewan Russell 09/May Solo O/S
with Myself!
John Bunney ?/May -
with Charlie
jake lee 29/Apr Lead
davebrox ??/2016 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
mountain musher ??/2016 AltLd
Tim Sparrow ??/2016 -
scottywakefield 02/Nov/15 AltLd O/S

Some pockets wet (it was Nov), but overall loved it! Intimidating first pitch but as the grade suggests, holds appeared when needed.

magik_bob 02/Nov/15 AltLd
partz 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Very good, well worth seekin out!

Hidden 10/Oct/15 2nd O/S
dashby 04/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Desperate first pitch with two overlaps. The 2nd being very hard indeed. (Afterwards, found we had done the 1st pitch of Gone to the Dogs, 5b, being lured by shiny runner and biner left in situ recently!) The 2nd pitch is a breeze, very easy, but fabulous situation at the grade.

with Dave Prime
ChrisH_273 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
swmackey 27/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/15 AltLd
will_benfold 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Think Lina got the better pitch!

David_Gledson 08/Sep/15 Lead O/S
guy757 30/Aug/15 -
Hidden 18/Aug/15 AltLd
Maywood96 18/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 08/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Mr Tickle 17/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Dan2
DanDevey94 17/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Exhilerating exposure, completed following from Northern Buttress.

Dazluke2000 11/Jul/15 2nd O/S
JamesWilliams 08/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing what a stunning route! Once we found the bloody thing that is!

with Becky
beckyjg 08/Jun/15 2nd
Fatclimber 06/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Pitch one.

Deako 06/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden 04/May/15 2nd
Hidden 08/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
dkd 08/Apr/15 AltLd
with karly54
jcw ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd
derryclimbs 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S

ended up going up here after losing the route on Groved Arete. Certainly wasn't disappointed. Great finish to the top

pie_eater_pete ?/Oct/14 Lead
TomGB 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
beeney 21/Sep/14 2nd
leemagowan 20/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Last climb of trip, feeling drained, glad it's over!

Jenny Hall 11/Aug/14 2nd

Great climb with good views.

with tom wood, Louis
Louis Hume 11/Aug/14 Lead

Nice

erbridger 31/Jul/14 AltLd

With Denry and Tamsin.

Denry 31/Jul/14 AltLd β

Led first pitch, Emily led 2nd with Tamsin Gay jugging up next to us and commenting on technique.

with Emily Bridger, Tamsin Gay
BareBears 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Mike Gutteridge
Hidden 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Kate Edhouse 21/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

CLimbed grooved arete to reach.

dan gibson 17/Jul/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/14 2nd
MoWalker3 12/Jul/14 -

If you get the choice do the first pitch, its a joy.

with Ross
jwhereat 02/Jul/14 -
rashwell ?/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
K Mckay 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

with Dan Slome, Ed Poulter
Julesthe1st 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Bart
deejmonkey 18/May/14 AltLd

Superb route on tasty rock with some nice exposure

with Damian
Daymo 18/May/14 AltLd O/S
with DJ
RyanOsborne 17/May/14 AltLd

2nd pitch

cdpuk 03/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Nice little finish for the day after grooved arÍte. Seriously cold on the top pitch.

bigbobbyking 03/May/14 AltLd
with Chris Allan
JulianB 03/May/14 AltLd

Rounded off a great day

Marti999 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Glyn Davidson 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

2nd Pitch Only

with Jon Price
Hidden 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
spearing05 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing route. Led pitch 2 and really enjoyed it.

with Andrew
A Crook 16/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/14 AltLd
Hidden 15/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden 15/Mar/14 Lead
mrginna 13/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Both pitches... lovely!

with Nick
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 Lead
with Charlie Jordan
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Solo
Simon Cahill 24/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch (4c), sustained at grade but probably felt hard with a quite heavy rucksack, happy to be wearing good rock shoes. Note approach by climbing North Buttress, v-diff, descent by North Gully descent path.

with Ann S
Ann S 24/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

(Accessed this route up North Buttress which I recommend if you have already done Grooved Arete.) Led second 4b pitch, where the climb out to the nose is a path, one small nut and micro cam. If using half ropes makes sure they don't both catch under a small 'bird beak' at the very tip of the nose. We finished the route early at the large flat terrace and traversed off left still roped up into top of North gully. Excellent day.

with Simon Cahill
williap 31/Aug/13 AltLd

Adam lead pitch one at VS while I did the airy finish

Hidden 28/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Pinguville 28/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with George
Hidden 16/Aug/13 Lead
lithos 14/Jul/13 AltLd

P1 me , P2 Vhis, approached via Grooved Arete which megan led running pitches together. great rip, quality climbing

with chris CC, megan CC
Matt Marsh 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Ray Sparks 19/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with mike b
timcedwards ?/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Mick Hill
Hidden 25/May/13 AltLd O/S
matt0759 25/May/13 AltLd
with JamesA
John Nuttall 19/May/13 Lead
with Sharon
dsgarner 04/May/13 2nd O/S
with Jim Cockayne
Julian Prieto 04/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1

Lawrence Dudley 04/May/13 AltLd
with Julian Prieto
Richard Kinsman ??/2013 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2013 AltLd O/S
with Ian Smith
Zoomer 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Steady away climbing, 2nd pitch a bit disappointing after the exposed move on the nose.

fizzychewitt 22/Sep/12 AltLd
with Martin
gingergeorge 22/Sep/12 AltLd
biggianthead 15/Sep/12 -
with T
Bertbee 06/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Superb route. Took the second pitch, with the tremendous step out on the arete.

with Ben
Pinguville 28/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with George
Mouse5 08/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/12 AltLd
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead
JdotP 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S

**** route!

with Jordan Sargeant
gd303uk 06/May/12 AltLd O/S

Snow??

RossT 01/Apr/12 AltLd
with Chris
Jones_88 01/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Chris wilson 01/Apr/12 AltLd
with Ross
adam06 01/Apr/12 AltLd
Hidden 31/Mar/12 AltLd
Frank Blakeley 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Si
Gerallt Owain 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Ryan Roberts
jezb1 11/Mar/12 AltLd

P1. A few of the holds were damp, and with carrying a pack I felt this was 4c. When properly dry I reckon it's an easy 4c. Nice as part of a long route (Grooved Arete to start)

The Ivanator 11/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

I led minging wet traverse across from Grooved Arete and p2. Great positions and views, some nice sections of climbing too.

with Jez
davidtrelawnyross ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -

Pouring rain. Stuff of legend.

Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Hidden 16/Oct/11 AltLd
tunaficiency 15/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with kate surry
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Danjones 09/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Great climbing, good rock and good position - shame there wasn't more of it!

with Steve Keys
martin c 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S

with Steve

Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Martin Bennett 02/Jul/11 -
with AlanB
tim20 20/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Sean Kelly ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
djromberg ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead
Hidden 17/Oct/10 2nd
Steve Woollard 16/Oct/10 AltLd
with Lou Reynolds
Scotsken ?/Oct/10 -
Hidden 27/Aug/10 AltLd
al123 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with greg
Greg M 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
djprepie 22/Aug/10 AltLd
with Luis Parsons (aka Hero)
Hidden 21/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/10 2nd
HIGHTOWER 14/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Graham Kelshore, Andy Woolston
centurion05 14/Jun/10 AltLd
Hidden 22/May/10 AltLd
spragglerocks 15/May/10 AltLd
Batt 15/May/10 AltLd O/S

P1. Good route, nice position. Gear a bit fiddly but nice moves.

Hoyes 15/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/May/10 AltLd
simonward 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
soph ??/2010 -
Hidden 27/Sep/09 Lead
bob johnson 14/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

grooved arete for the first three pitches around the corner and up to the good top two pitches - as usual for this summer rain never far away even though not forecast

with Rich Ball
Tanya Savage 02/May/09 2nd

Not much gear but otherwise fairly straight-forward

Neil Pacey 02/May/09 Lead O/S

Surprisingly well protected and easy for 4c.

Hidden ?/May/09 AltLd
sleavesley 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Matt Sheets
existing debt 22/Apr/09 -
with Iain a
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd
Strange little creature 13/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Scott Cramp
adi bryant ?/Aug/08 AltLd
with Caryl, Ben
Peter Reynolds ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
RCrockford 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Andy
Karlos 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1. Difficulty finding start as guidebook description of Terrace wall didn't match. Exposure jumps as you go round the corner and up onto the small ledges. Gaining the curving scoop a bit ballsy, but good gear and quite pocketed. Traverse out on nose of second pitch looked exposed, but good ledge to follow. Pretty easy after that. Another good route, with amazing views.

with Mark B
Hidden 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
popov86 01/Jun/08 AltLd
kleinej 24/May/08 AltLd

Nice first pitch. Second pitch had a nice beginning but faded into easy ground.

paddygoodwin 24/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Jason
garywong 24/May/08 2nd O/S
igneouscarl 11/May/08 2nd
with Tom Stahl
Anna Horrox 13/Feb/08 2nd
clive-greenwood 13/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Anna
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hawkscry ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
Hidden 29/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
ellentaylor 29/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/07 AltLd
nigel pearson 22/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

I lead P2

with Robin
Hidden ?/Aug/07 AltLd
Hidden 18/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/May/07 Lead
Shone 05/May/07 2nd O/S
with Graham Townsend and Hilary Lawrenson
Hidden ?/May/07 Lead
Tom Stoddart 06/Apr/07 AltLd
with Iain Leverett
Hidden 24/Mar/07 AltLd
tumbling wizard ?/Feb/07 Lead
Brian Rodgers ??/2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Brown 23/Nov/06 AltLd O/S
with John
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden ?/May/06 AltLd O/S
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
beardy mike ??/2006 AltLd O/S
Budge 25/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
Laramadness 16/May/04 -
John Marsland 13/May/04 AltLd
with John Haslam
Hidden 25/Apr/04 Lead
rockjedi12345 ?/Oct/03 AltLd O/S
with Phil Mathews
tom.e ?/Aug/03 2nd O/S
with Charlie Everett
Gman ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with James
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Martin Lilley ??/2002 2nd O/S
with Dave Slade
Hidden 26/Aug/01 2nd
Howard J 29/Jul/01 AltLd O/S
runestone 29/Jul/01 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/01 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/01 AltLd O/S
Rog Wilko ?/May/01 Lead

Great route! A bold lead for 1927, much easier with modern gear.

with Debbie Wilkinson
Stone Muppet ??/2000 -
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
BenTiffin ?/Sep/99 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
uphillnow 17/Jul/99 -
nigehughes ?/Aug/98 AltLd
with Ian Beddoes
Hidden 17/May/98 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/98 AltLd
VisionSet ??/1998 Solo rpt
Hidden 27/Sep/97 AltLd
Hidden 24/Aug/97 Solo
Hidden 30/May/97 Lead
Simon cook ?/Jul/96 -
michael burrows 29/Oct/95 AltLd O/S
with richard parry
Didymus 22/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
colin milton 23/Jun/94 AltLd
with eric milton
Adrian Eggleton 08/May/94 2nd
with Derek Bain
BigHairyIan 31/Aug/93 AltLd O/S
with Mike Gibbison (Hairy)
malc 13/Jun/93 Lead
Sean Kelly ?/May/92 Lead

A very underated climb. The position at the crux is so out there for a trad route on Tryfan.

with Paul Harding
Hidden ??/1991 AltLd
Hidden 26/Aug/90 2nd
Rob Davies ?/Jun/90 Lead
with Angus McLean
Nick Biven ??/1990 -
Nick Biven ??/1990 -
babymoac 18/Jun/89 AltLd
with Andrew Ecker
Hidden 10/Jun/88 Lead
hazeysunshine ?/Jul/87 AltLd O/S
amcleish ??/1986 -
Mark Kemball 28/Feb/83 Lead
with George Mumford
Hidden ?/Apr/80 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Hidden 19/May/79 Lead
Gordon Stainforth 19/Aug/78 AltLd O/S

'A perfect climb, very exposed. Probably the best MVS in the country. Fitting for my 200th VS!' Finished day up Bristly Ridge.

with Harry Woodbridge
kjacks ??/1975 Lead
with Anthony Griffiths
Bob M ?/May/74 Lead
with Jal Arustu
Bolt Phobia 15/Apr/74 Lead
Hidden 26/Aug/73 AltLd
mikej 19/Oct/69 AltLd

Descent

with Wil Hurford
eroica64 28/May/66 2nd
with Colin -
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 41
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set