48m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Great rock, exhilarating moves and breath-taking exposure. Gain the right-hand end of the large terrace halfway up North Gully either by a scramble or by North Buttress. Belay just right of a large block.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb up right and go round the arete on the right. Climb a slab to a small ledge then follow the slab above. Continue up the curving groove to a large ledge.
2) 4b, 40m. Head right onto the nose and enjoy the air beneath your feet. Climb straight up to easier ground leading to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, North Wales Rock Graded List, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
partz 10/Oct Lead O/S

Very good, well worth seekin out!

Hidden 10/Oct 2nd O/S
dashby 04/Oct AltLd O/S

Desperate first pitch with two overlaps. The 2nd being very hard indeed. (Afterwards, found we had done the 1st pitch of Gone to the Dogs, 5b, being lured by shiny runner and biner left in situ recently!) The 2nd pitch is a breeze, very easy, but fabulous situation at the grade.

Dave Prime
ChrisH_273 03/Oct Lead O/S
swmackey 27/Sep AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Sep AltLd
will_benfold 19/Sep AltLd O/S

Led P2. Think Lina got the better pitch!

David_Gledson 08/Sep Lead O/S
guy757 30/Aug -
Hidden 18/Aug AltLd
Maywood96 18/Aug AltLd
Hidden 08/Aug 2nd O/S
Mr Tickle 17/Jul Lead O/S
DanDevey94 17/Jul 2nd O/S

Exhilerating exposure, completed following from Northern Buttress.

Dazluke2000 11/Jul 2nd O/S
JamesWilliams 08/Jun Lead O/S

Really nice climbing what a stunning route! Once we found the bloody thing that is!

beckyjg 08/Jun 2nd
Fatclimber 06/Jun AltLd O/S

Pitch one.

Deako 06/Jun AltLd
Hidden 04/May 2nd
Hidden 08/Apr AltLd O/S
jcw ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
derryclimbs 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S

ended up going up here after losing the route on Groved Arete. Certainly wasn't disappointed. Great finish to the top

pie_eater_pete ?/Oct/14 Lead
TomGB 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
beeney 21/Sep/14 2nd
Jenny Hall 11/Aug/14 2nd

Great climb with good views.

tom wood, Louis
Louis Hume 11/Aug/14 Lead


erbridger 31/Jul/14 AltLd

With Denry and Tamsin.

Denry 31/Jul/14 AltLd β

Led first pitch, Emily led 2nd with Tamsin Gay jugging up next to us and commenting on technique.

Emily Bridger, Tamsin Gay
BareBears 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Mike Gutteridge
Hidden 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Kate Edhouse 21/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

CLimbed grooved arete to reach.

dan gibson 17/Jul/14 Solo O/S
nation1 13/Jul/14 2nd

No took the glory on this one ! Bugger ! Impeccable route

MoWalker3 12/Jul/14 -

If you get the choice do the first pitch, its a joy.

jwhereat 02/Jul/14 -
rashwell ?/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
K Mckay 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

Dan Slome, Ed Poulter
Julesthe1st 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
deejmonkey 18/May/14 AltLd

Superb route on tasty rock with some nice exposure

Daymo 18/May/14 AltLd O/S
RyanOsborne 17/May/14 AltLd

2nd pitch

cdpuk 03/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Nice little finish for the day after grooved arÍte. Seriously cold on the top pitch.

bigbobbyking 03/May/14 AltLd
Chris Allan
JulianB 03/May/14 AltLd

Rounded off a great day

Marti999 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Glyn Davidson 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

2nd Pitch Only

Jon Price
Hidden 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
spearing05 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing route. Led pitch 2 and really enjoyed it.

A Crook 16/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden 15/Mar/14 Lead
mrginna 13/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Both pitches... lovely!

Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Solo
Simon Cahill 24/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch (4c), sustained at grade but probably felt hard with a quite heavy rucksack, happy to be wearing good rock shoes. Note approach by climbing North Buttress, v-diff, descent by North Gully descent path.

Ann S 24/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

(Accessed this route up North Buttress which I recommend if you have already done Grooved Arete.) Led second 4b pitch, where the climb out to the nose is a path, one small nut and micro cam. If using half ropes makes sure they don't both catch under a small 'bird beak' at the very tip of the nose. We finished the route early at the large flat terrace and traversed off left still roped up into top of North gully. Excellent day.

Simon Cahill
williap 31/Aug/13 AltLd

Adam lead pitch one at VS while I did the airy finish

adam radcliffe
Hidden 28/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/13 Lead
lithos 14/Jul/13 AltLd

P1 me , P2 Vhis, approached via Grooved Arete which megan led running pitches together. great rip, quality climbing

chris CC, megan CC
Matt Marsh 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Alex Thompson 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Got into some stupid rope faffage, twisted on first pitch and caught around arete on second. Set up a intermediate belay and let Matt finish to the top...

Matt Marsh
Ray Sparks 19/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
mike b
timcedwards ?/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Mick Hill
Hidden 25/May/13 AltLd O/S
matt0759 25/May/13 AltLd
John Nuttall 19/May/13 Lead
dsgarner 04/May/13 2nd O/S
Jim Cockayne
Julian Prieto 04/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1

Lawrence Dudley 04/May/13 AltLd
Julian Prieto
Hidden ??/2013 -
Richard Kinsman ??/2013 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2013 AltLd O/S
Ian Smith
Zoomer 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Steady away climbing, 2nd pitch a bit disappointing after the exposed move on the nose.

fizzychewitt 22/Sep/12 AltLd
gingergeorge 22/Sep/12 AltLd
biggianthead 15/Sep/12 -
Bertbee 06/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Superb route. Took the second pitch, with the tremendous step out on the arete.

Pinguville 28/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Mouse5 08/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/12 AltLd
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead
JdotP 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S

**** route!

Jordan Sargeant
gd303uk 06/May/12 AltLd O/S


RossT 01/Apr/12 AltLd
Jones_88 01/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/12 AltLd
adam06 01/Apr/12 AltLd
Hidden 31/Mar/12 AltLd
Frank Blakeley 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Gerallt Owain 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Ryan Roberts
jezb1 11/Mar/12 AltLd

P1. A few of the holds were damp, and with carrying a pack I felt this was 4c. When properly dry I reckon it's an easy 4c. Nice as part of a long route (Grooved Arete to start)

The Ivanator 11/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

I led minging wet traverse across from Grooved Arete and p2. Great positions and views, some nice sections of climbing too.

davidtrelawnyross ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -

Pouring rain. Stuff of legend.

Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Hidden 16/Oct/11 AltLd
tunaficiency 15/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
kate surry
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Danjones 09/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Great climbing, good rock and good position - shame there wasn't more of it!

Steve Keys
martin c 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S

with Steve

Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
tim20 20/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Sean Kelly ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
djromberg ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead
Hidden 17/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 16/Oct/10 AltLd
Scotsken ?/Oct/10 -
Hidden 27/Aug/10 AltLd
al123 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Greg M 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
djprepie 22/Aug/10 AltLd
Luis Parsons (aka Hero)
Hidden 21/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/10 2nd
HIGHTOWER 14/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Graham Kelshore, Andy Woolston
centurion05 14/Jun/10 AltLd
Chris M 22/May/10 AltLd
Dan G
spragglerocks 15/May/10 AltLd
Batt 15/May/10 AltLd O/S

P1. Good route, nice position. Gear a bit fiddly but nice moves.

Hoyes 15/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/May/10 AltLd
simonward 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
soph ??/2010 -
Hidden 27/Sep/09 Lead
bob johnson 14/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

grooved arete for the first three pitches around the corner and up to the good top two pitches - as usual for this summer rain never far away even though not forecast

Rich Ball
Tanya Savage 02/May/09 2nd

Not much gear but otherwise fairly straight-forward

Neil Pacey 02/May/09 Lead O/S

Surprisingly well protected and easy for 4c.

Hidden ?/May/09 AltLd
sleavesley 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Matt Sheets
existing debt 22/Apr/09 -
Iain a
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd
Strange little creature 13/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Scott Cramp
adi bryant ?/Aug/08 AltLd
Caryl, Ben
Peter Reynolds ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
RCrockford 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Karlos 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1. Difficulty finding start as guidebook description of Terrace wall didn't match. Exposure jumps as you go round the corner and up onto the small ledges. Gaining the curving scoop a bit ballsy, but good gear and quite pocketed. Traverse out on nose of second pitch looked exposed, but good ledge to follow. Pretty easy after that. Another good route, with amazing views.

Hidden 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
popov86 01/Jun/08 AltLd
kleinej 24/May/08 AltLd

Nice first pitch. Second pitch had a nice beginning but faded into easy ground.

paddygoodwin 24/May/08 AltLd O/S
garywong 24/May/08 2nd O/S
igneouscarl 11/May/08 2nd
Tom Stahl
Anna Horrox 13/Feb/08 2nd
clive-greenwood 13/Feb/08 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hawkscry ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
adamscottthomas 29/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

I led first pitch, Mike led 2nd, Ellen Taylor 2nd. Cracking route, good climbing in a magnificent situation.

Ellen Taylor and Mike Kean
ellentaylor 29/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/07 AltLd
nigel pearson 22/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

I lead P2

Hidden ?/Aug/07 AltLd
Hidden 18/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/May/07 Lead
Shone 05/May/07 2nd O/S
Graham Townsend and Hilary Lawrenson
Hidden ?/May/07 Lead
Tom Stoddart 06/Apr/07 AltLd
Iain Leverett
Hidden 24/Mar/07 AltLd
tumbling wizard ?/Feb/07 Lead
Brian Rodgers ??/2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Brown 23/Nov/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden ?/May/06 AltLd O/S
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
beardy mike ??/2006 AltLd O/S
Budge 25/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
Laramadness 16/May/04 -
John Marsland 13/May/04 AltLd
John Haslam
Hidden 25/Apr/04 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/03 AltLd O/S
tom.e ?/Aug/03 2nd O/S
Charlie Everett
Gman ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Martin Lilley ??/2002 2nd O/S
Dave Slade
Hidden 26/Aug/01 2nd
Howard J 29/Jul/01 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/01 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/01 AltLd O/S
Rog Wilko ?/May/01 Lead

Great route! A bold lead for 1927, much easier with modern gear.

Debbie Wilkinson
Hidden ??/2000 -
Stone Muppet ??/2000 -
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
BenTiffin ?/Sep/99 Lead
uphillnow 17/Jul/99 -
Hidden 17/May/98 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/98 AltLd
VisionSet ??/1998 Solo rpt
Hidden 27/Sep/97 AltLd
Hidden 24/Aug/97 Solo
Hidden 30/May/97 Lead
Simon cook ?/Jul/96 -
michael burrows 29/Oct/95 AltLd O/S
richard parry
Didymus 22/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
colin milton 23/Jun/94 AltLd
eric milton
Adrian Eggleton 08/May/94 2nd
Derek Bain
BigHairyIan 31/Aug/93 AltLd O/S
Mike Gibbison (Hairy)
malc 13/Jun/93 Lead
Sean Kelly ?/May/92 Lead

A very underated climb. The position at the crux is so out there for a trad route on Tryfan.

Paul Harding
Hidden ??/1991 AltLd
Hidden 26/Aug/90 2nd
Nick Biven ??/1990 -
Nick Biven ??/1990 -
babymoac 18/Jun/89 AltLd
Andrew Ecker
Hidden 10/Jun/88 Lead
hazeysunshine ?/Jul/87 AltLd O/S
amcleish ??/1986 -
Mark Kemball 28/Feb/83 Lead
George Mumford
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Hidden 19/May/79 Lead
Gordon Stainforth 19/Aug/78 AltLd O/S

'A perfect climb, very exposed. Probably the best MVS in the country. Fitting for my 200th VS!' Finished day up Bristly Ridge.

Harry Woodbridge
Hidden ?/May/74 Lead
Bolt Phobia 15/Apr/74 Lead
Hidden 26/Aug/73 AltLd
mikej 19/Oct/69 AltLd


Wil Hurford
eroica64 28/May/66 2nd
Colin -
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 36
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 39
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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