60m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An adventurous mountain route high on the side wall of South Gully that is no pushover. The route is gained by scrambling up or abseiling down South Gully to reach a large grassy ledge to the left of a rock rib.
1) 4c, 30m. From the ledge, step down and follow the right-most groove to reach a steep narrow slab (possible belay). Climb the slab to a hard move to reach the right-hand edge. Belay with care.
2) 5a, 18m. From the right-hand block, boldly gain the nose on the left. Continue left to gain Teufel's Crack. Follow this to a belay on a grassy rake.
3) 15m. Easily up the rake to belay behind the large block.
4) 4b, 38m. Climb a vague groove right of the block. Move left to a crack and follow this to a ledge. Gain a steep crack on the right to reach the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Scramble up South Gully until you reach the obvious arete and steep slab of Munich Climb on the LHS, just belwo the Pinnacle in the centre of the gully.

Pitch 1 - follow the steep slab/arete. Poor but sufficient gear. Hard move leftwards at the top to reach the belay.

Pitch 2 - climb the steep slab with a small "ledge" half way. Adequate but spaced gear. Can be climbed on the slab, on the arete, or round the front side overlooking South Gully depending on your height and preference. Cramped belay stance in some blocks with in-situ ab sling for the faint of heart.

Pitch 3 - make a hard and committing move leftwards above the belay stance to gain the arete. Great exposure, balancy but good protection. Traverse leftwards several metres with care to Teufels crack and climb it (fist jamming) to the stance. Careful ropework required to protect a nervous second on this pitch.

Pitch 4 - amble up the grassy rake a bit to a groove line in the wall. Climb this.

Pitch 5 - Head for the top up the wall above, slightly dirty in parts.

Pitch 5 -

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!), UK Lonely Leads, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
DanChad 24/Aug AltLd dnf

DNF in this case stands for did not find.

with Paul Deane
Harry Ellis 23/Jul Lead

Missed the Teufel Crack by mistake. Went straight up after stepping round nose.

with Sophia Hallworth, Phil Bullock
Phil Bullock 23/Jul 2nd O/S
Martin Bagshaw 17/Jul AltLd O/S
with Ben from Bristol, Thomas Adams
Hidden 17/Jul AltLd O/S
tomdude 17/Jul AltLd
with Martin Bagshaw, ben warlow
ClareSenny 04/Jun Lead

Final pitch only

with Adrian
Hidden 04/Jun 2nd O/S
Will Hunt 15/May AltLd O/S

Led P2 then walked off. Not as spicy as hyped. First pitch is bolder going up the gong flake.

Ewan Russell 15/May AltLd O/S

1st

Hidden 15/May 2nd
davebrox ??/2016 -
thomas108 ??/2016 -
John Bunney ??/2016 -
swmackey 27/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
mrginna 15/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

2nd Pitch

with Joe D, Chris S
nodwas 15/Jul/15 AltLd
caradoc 15/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

We divided pitch one into two, VS 4b then VS 4c/5a for the crux. Poor gear for belay. Teufel's Crack around VS 4b/4c. Confusing guidebook discrepancies followed, the new Idwal guide has invented a 4c pitch which we might have done, it's probably best to follow your nose for the remainder of the climb. A very enjoyable route that felt quite safe, contrary to it's reputation. Much easier than Mur y Niwl.

with Matt H.
Hidden 11/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
JamesWilliams 08/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Felt pretty serious but good . Last pitch is in obvious . Finished up the chimney of gashed crag

with Becky
beckyjg 08/Jun/15 2nd
jcw ??/2015 -

Three times including winter in appalling conditions

bob johnson 14/Sep/14 AltLd
with Rich Ball
Louis Hume 13/Aug/14 Lead

Great nostalgic route - bugger to get to (found ourselves leading up the scramble using 6mm tat as rope, NOT reccommended) and find (much higher up the gully than we thought(there's another rib before the one you want)) and working out where it started (it's not on the flat wall it goes round into a deep groove and follows that up coming out onto the arete near end of first pitch)

Hidden 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Heather Osborne 18/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 17/Jul/14 Solo O/S
maria85 12/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Got a little confused with the old guidebook/rubbish topo, but did something resembling this...

with Neil
Mark Kemball 11/Jul/14 Lead
with Bill Kemball
useful 01/Jun/14 AltLd

I led the first pitch with the hollow hanging flake. Cacked my pants! Excellent route :)

with John M, Steve E
RyanOsborne 17/May/14 AltLd

Odds.

Hidden ?/May/14 AltLd
Derek Ryden 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with William Taylor, Glynne Andrew
willyboy 18/Apr/14 -

Tough for beginners but well worth climbing

Si ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 Lead
with Charlie Jordan
DubyaJamesDubya 21/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Ian Smith
Prof. Outdoors 10/Aug/13 AltLd

Hardest move is on the cracked slab. Airy but easier move on to nose. Nice traverse. Not entirely sure where the 4th pitch goes.

with Wendy
Hidden 28/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
jonathandavey 29/Jun/13 AltLd

Did as 4 pitches, lead P2 (traverse and crack) & a long P4 up what I think was the right line... Found the whole thing very entertaining!

JdotP 29/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Bit of a battle but very good! Yes the block does wobble.

with The Chosen One
Hidden 21/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Ray Sparks 19/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with mike b
Hidden 25/May/13 AltLd O/S
rwm7131 25/May/13 AltLd
with JamesA
Hidden ??/2013 AltLd
spacey 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Paul Evans 08/Sep/12 AltLd
with spacey
martrin 06/Sep/12 AltLd
with Sarah Kekus
edmitchell 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Middle of the road VS, no idea why it's been upgraded. First two pitches are great, quality falls away massively after Teufel's crack

with brmc members
Phil Layton 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Phil Laxton, Ed
Steve Lenartowicz 09/Aug/12 Lead
with Clare
zukator 15/Jul/12 Lead

Quite sustained throughout. A good mountain day from Ogwen Cottage.

with Shaun
deklan 25/May/12 AltLd
with Rosie
willoates 21/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Lotta
Lotte Stuer 21/May/12 AltLd
with Will
gd303uk 13/May/12 AltLd O/S

Great route , don't under estimate the pitch to the wobbly block, :)

Hidden ??/2012 -
suds_01 11/Sep/11 AltLd
with Jamie, Harrison
martin c 25/Aug/11 Lead O/S

With Abi. Started to rain and cold so skipped final pitch.

Hidden 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
twodada 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Think we got a bit lost on pitch 4 and five. Was very uncertian that I found the right shallow grove behind the block, and there was no black wall above.

with John Hammond
Martin Bennett 02/Jul/11 -
with AlanB
suffolknick 01/May/11 AltLd O/S

Great climb! Led first pitch, gear was difficult and crux move felt harder than 4c! Merl led second pitch. We missed final pitch because none of us could feel our feet due to the wind!

with matt, clams
clams ?/May/11 AltLd

felt like VS 5a, 4c; crux cracked slab at the top of P1 (or P2 according to route description above)

with NB+Matt
texuspete 16/Apr/11 2nd
with Ben Robotham
Hidden 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
The_Boy_ODwyer 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

lead P2 (the step around)

with Colin Harvey
maresia 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
djromberg ??/2011 -
Woolly 16/Oct/10 AltLd

Very cold and a bit damp

with Lou Reynolds
Hidden 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/10 AltLd
Hidden 31/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
dpiddock 31/Aug/10 2nd dog

First time dragged up a mountain route. Horrible, didn't know what to expect. Seriously struggled on the slab of pitch 2. Start of pitch 3 fun though.

djprepie 22/Aug/10 AltLd
with Luis Parsons (aka Hero)
Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead
theotherpetehill 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
zach.stone 25/Jul/10 AltLd β

Led P1 of Gashed Crag, scambled the gully, led P3, quite foggy and rainy

Hidden 26/Jun/10 AltLd
Pete Randall 26/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2&4

with Sean Toms, Rosi
tedburt 30/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1,3,4

with Aaron Burdett
Hidden 22/May/10 AltLd
Ken Applegate 17/Apr/10 AltLd

Nice high mountain route. Led pitch 2&4. Crux is pretty short lived, and quite easy for the grade, if a little exposed.

simonward 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
31770 ??/2010 AltLd
with Ian Johnson
aide 27/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

After first two pitches of Gash, worth the hawl for the last pitch. Good day out, not HVS as suggeseted by new guide book.

with Dave Mckai
Steve Hill 29/Aug/09 2nd dnf

Got about 3/4 of the way up the first pitch and then the rain hit. Aided to the top of the first pitch and abbed off.

with Will Jones
willson 25/Jul/09 AltLd

With our packs on. Approached from gulley

with ben
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead
Hidden ?/May/09 AltLd
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead
brady 23/Aug/08 2nd dnf

Escaped by abbing off from the blocks on the second pitch. Typical Bank Holiday August weather swept in ....rain, hail and a gusty wind!

with Dave Simcock & Gareth Roberts
Hidden 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Karlos 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1,3 and 5. Found the bulge at the top of the first pitch the hardest. Gear wasn't great until that point. Managed to get hands high enough to find small jug tho. Nice step onto nose on pitch 3, and missed initial traverse into the crack, which itself I found hard work jamming. Pitch 4 was unexpectedly nice. All in all a great route.

with Mark B
Hidden 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
petebale2000 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Matt Bennett 10/May/08 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
tumbling wizard ??/2008 -
tumbling wizard ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
Darrell Read 07/Oct/07 AltLd
chris sm 27/Aug/07 Lead

P1 only. Abbed off.

with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden 26/Aug/07 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/07 AltLd
Hidden 18/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/May/07 Lead
Shone 05/May/07 AltLd

Noted now HVS in the new Selected Welsh rock book, and pitch 3 (the traverse to the crack) is up from 4a to 5a

with Graham Townsend and Hilary Lawrenson
Nicos 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/07 AltLd
fran04 ??/2007 AltLd
Hidden ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
Ian Andrews ??/2007 AltLd O/S
with Pete Williams, Martin Worthy, Fran Gowling
victim of mathematics 28/May/06 2nd O/S
crossdressingrodney 28/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/06 AltLd O/S
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
George Ormerod 29/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
with Roger
Hidden 16/Jul/05 Lead O/S
steve prior ?/Jul/05 AltLd
with Roger C
John Marsland 13/May/04 AltLd
with John Haslam
Hidden ?/May/04 AltLd O/S
orb ?/May/04 AltLd O/S
with Phil Worgan
orb ?/Apr/04 AltLd O/S
with Phil Worgan
dycotiles ??/2004 AltLd O/S
with Pascal
paul m hadley ??/2004 -
Marq 02/Aug/03 AltLd O/S

DMMDM

with Daniel Dennehy
Gman ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Eamon, Sean
Hidden ?/Jul/03 AltLd
Andy Clarke 30/Mar/03 AltLd O/S

Led Ps 2&4 (steep slab & wall).

with ChrisA
nrg8125 15/Mar/03 AltLd
csalvage ??/2002 2nd
with Bryan
Hidden 01/May/00 2nd
chris wyatt ??/2000 AltLd O/S
with JAck Graham
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
alan moore ??/2000 -

Good. Not HVS.

Hidden 28/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
aged_ape ?/May/99 -
with Matt O
nigehughes ?/Aug/98 Lead
with Ian Beddoes
John HW ?/Jun/98 Lead
with Bill Nicholson
iskra2000 31/Mar/97 AltLd

Led 1,2,4. DR 3 & 5.

with Danuska Rycerz
Marti999 ?/May/96 Lead
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd O/S
Ian Archer 19/Jul/95 AltLd

solid VS - found the traverse and crack easy - the slab below I found a bit tricky

with Ron Humphries
colin milton 23/Jun/94 AltLd
with eric milton
JiveWeasel 28/May/94 AltLd
with Al H
Nick Biven 09/Nov/91 AltLd

In the pissing rain in big boots. What a laff.

with Ray Jenkins
Hidden 26/Aug/90 2nd
RichardMc 28/Apr/90 AltLd

Walked over from Fronwydyr and back

with Zbysek Lustyk, Angel Vila
Rob Davies 31/Mar/90 Lead
with Angus McLean
michael burrows 11/Oct/87 AltLd O/S
with dave lloyd
babymoac 26/Sep/87 Lead
with Chris B
mikej 15/Sep/79 Lead
with Mike Mason
Andy Say 26/Aug/79 Lead O/S
Gordon Stainforth 19/Aug/78 AltLd O/S

A very classic day. Approach via Gashed Crag.

with Harry Woodbridge
Falko 26/Apr/75 Lead O/S
with Al W.
Falko 01/Apr/75 Lead

I have pencilled 'Superb weather. Boots' beside the route description in my copy of the Ron James guide.

with Al W.
Bolt Phobia 03/Feb/75 AltLd
Bob M ?/May/74 2nd
with Jal Arustu
RichardMc 06/Sep/73 AltLd
with Harry Woodbridge
uphillnow ?/Jul/71 Lead O/S

In mountain boots. Also later with Geof Arkles on Guides assessment week

with George Wilson
oldmanofmow 02/Apr/62 Lead

NWMC meet. Started a supposed girdle of Tryfan from Grooved Arete when well up South Gully saw a ledge leading out across the steep left wall. With a bit of rope jigerry pokery reversed it and got onto the wall to find Ron James on the crux of Munich just below. Traversed left over ledges and up finishing on Gashed crag

oldmanofmow 25/Jun/61 AltLd

John Robertson. John led the crux, its a bit airy and hairy for a couple of moves. Enjoyed Teufels Crack

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 15
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set