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Munich Climb** HVS 5a

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South Gully Rib >>
[Contemplating the crux (and hollow flake) on Munich Climb., 1 kb]60m, 3 pitches. An adventurous mountain route high on the side wall of South Gully. The route is gained by scrambling up South Gully to reach a large grassy ledge to the left of a rock rib. 1) 4c, 30m. From the ledge, step down and follow the rightmost groove to reach a steep narrow slab (possible belay). Climb the slab to a hard move to reach the right-hand edge. Belay with care. 2) 5a, 18m. From the right-hand block, boldly gain the nose on the left. Continue left to gain 'Teufel's Crack'. Follow this to a belay on a grassy rake. 3) 15m. Easily up the rake to belay behind the large block. 4) 4b, 38m. Climb a vague groove right of the block. Move left to a crack and follow this to a ledge. Gain a steep crack on the right to reach the top. © ROCKFAX
Scramble up South Gully until you reach the obvious arete and steep slab of Munich Climb on the LHS, just belwo the Pinnacle in the centre of the gully. Pitch 1 - follow the steep slab/arete. Poor but sufficient gear. Hard move leftwards at the top to reach the belay. Pitch 2 - climb the steep slab with a small "ledge" half way. Adequate but spaced gear. Can be climbed on the slab, on the arete, or round the front side overlooking South Gully depending on your height and preference. Cramped belay stance in some blocks with in-situ ab sling for the faint of heart. Pitch 3 - make a hard and committing move leftwards above the belay stance to gain the arete. Great exposure, balancy but good protection. Traverse leftwards several metres with care to Teufels crack and climb it (fist jamming) to the stance. Careful ropework required to protect a nervous second on this pitch. Pitch 4 - amble up the grassy rake a bit to a groove line in the wall. Climb this. Pitch 5 - Head for the top up the wall above, slightly dirty in parts. Pitch 5 -

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!), UK Lonely Leads.

Photo: Contemplating the crux (and hollow flake) on Munich Climb. © speekingleesh
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 123 logbooks, and on 44 wishlists.

Hardest move is on the cracked slab. Airy but easier move on to nose. Nice traverse. Not entirely sure where the 4th pitch goes.
Prof. Outdoors - AltLd - 10/Aug/13 with Wendy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/13

Did as 4 pitches, lead P2 (traverse and crack) & a long P4 up what I think was the right line... Found the whole thing very entertaining!
jonathandavey - AltLd - 29/Jun/13 with John Proctor

Bit of a battle but very good! Yes the block does wobble.
JdotP - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/13 with The Chosen One

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/13

Ray Sparks - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with mike b

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13

matthias13 - AltLd - 25/May/13 with JamesA

Hidden - AltLd - 2013

spacey - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with paul evans

martrin - AltLd - 06/Sep/12 with Sarah Kekus

Middle of the road VS, no idea why it's been upgraded. First two pitches are great, quality falls away massively after Teufel's crack
edmitchell - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12 with brmc members

Phil Layton - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Phil Laxton, Ed

Steve Lenartowicz - Lead - 09/Aug/12 with Clare

Quite sustained throughout. A good mountain day from Ogwen Cottage.
zukator - Lead - 15/Jul/12 with Shaun

deklan - AltLd - 25/May/12 with Rosie

willoates - AltLd O/S - 21/May/12 with Lotta

Hidden - AltLd - 21/May/12

Great route , don't under estimate the pitch to the wobbly block, :)
gd303uk - AltLd O/S - 13/May/12 with Duncan martin

Hidden - 2012

With Abi. Started to rain and cold so skipped final pitch.
martin c - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11

Think we got a bit lost on pitch 4 and five. Was very uncertian that I found the right shallow grove behind the block, and there was no black wall above.
twodada - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with John Hammond

Great climb! Led first pitch, gear was difficult and crux move felt harder than 4c! Merl led second pitch. We missed final pitch because none of us could feel our feet due to the wind!
suffolknick - AltLd O/S - 01/May/11 with matt, clams

felt like VS 5a, 4c; crux cracked slab at the top of P1 (or P2 according to route description above)
clams - AltLd - May/11 with NB+Matt

texuspete - 2nd - 16/Apr/11 with Ben Robotham

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11

lead P2 (the step around)
The_Boy_ODwyer - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Colin Harvey

maresia - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Mike Kann

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

djromberg - 2011

Very cold and a bit damp
Steve Woollard - AltLd - 16/Oct/10 with Lou Reynolds

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/10

First time dragged up a mountain route. Horrible, didn't know what to expect. Seriously struggled on the slab of pitch 2. Start of pitch 3 fun though.
dpiddock - 2nd dog - 31/Aug/10 with Jonathan, James C

djprepie - AltLd - 22/Aug/10 with Luis Parsons (aka Hero)

Hidden - Lead - 22/Aug/10

theotherpetehill - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Zach Stone

Led P1 of Gashed Crag, scambled the gully, led P3, quite foggy and rainy
zach.stone - AltLd β - 25/Jul/10 with Peter Hill

Wow! What a brilliant route - lived up to all my expectations. Bold, hard, exposed, sustained and committing. I reckon VS 4b, 4c, 4c, 4b, 4b although there seems to be quite a discrepancy in the guidebooks. Only disappointment - I dropped my camera en route somewhere...
Babika - AltLd - 26/Jun/10 with Pete Randall, Sean Toms

Lead pitches 2&4
Pete Randall - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Sean Toms, Rosi

Led P1,3,4
tedburt - AltLd O/S - 30/May/10 with Aaron Burdett

Chris M - AltLd - 22/May/10 with Dan G

Nice high mountain route. Led pitch 2&4. Crux is pretty short lived, and quite easy for the grade, if a little exposed.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 17/Apr/10 with Hannah Evans

simonward - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10

31770 - AltLd - 2010 with Ian Johnson, Darrell Read

After first two pitches of Gash, worth the hawl for the last pitch. Good day out, not HVS as suggeseted by new guide book.
aide - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/09 with Dave Mckai

Got about 3/4 of the way up the first pitch and then the rain hit. Aided to the top of the first pitch and abbed off.
Steve Hill - 2nd dnf - 29/Aug/09 with Will Jones

With our packs on. Approached from gulley
willson - AltLd - 25/Jul/09 with ben

Hidden - Lead - 13/Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd - May/09

Chris M - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 21/Sep/08

Escaped by abbing off from the blocks on the second pitch. Typical Bank Holiday August weather swept in ....rain, hail and a gusty wind!
brady - 2nd dnf - 23/Aug/08 with Dave Simcock & Gareth Roberts

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/08

Lead pitches 1,3 and 5. Found the bulge at the top of the first pitch the hardest. Gear wasn't great until that point. Managed to get hands high enough to find small jug tho. Nice step onto nose on pitch 3, and missed initial traverse into the crack, which itself I found hard work jamming. Pitch 4 was unexpectedly nice. All in all a great route.
Karlos - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/08 with Mark B

chalk monster - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/08 with Karl

petebale2000 - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08

Matt Bennett - Lead O/S - 10/May/08

daveagriff - 2nd - 2008

tumbling wizard - 2008

tumbling wizard - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Darrell Read - AltLd - 07/Oct/07 with Oliver Mentz, Ian Johnson

P1 only. Abbed off.
chris sm - Lead - 27/Aug/07 with Pippa Froggatt

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/07

Hidden - Lead - 11/May/07

Noted now HVS in the new Selected Welsh rock book, and pitch 3 (the traverse to the crack) is up from 4a to 5a
Shone - AltLd - 05/May/07 with Graham Townsend and Hilary Lawrenson

Nicos - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/07 with rich howels

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/07

fran04 - AltLd - 2007

Hidden - 2007

climber sim - 2007

Ian Andrews - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Pete Williams, Martin Worthy, Fran Gowling

victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 28/May/06 with crossdressingrodney

crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 28/May/06 with victim of mathematics

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/06

Ian McNeill - 2006

George Ormerod - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/05 with Roger

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/05

John Marsland - AltLd - 13/May/04 with John Haslam

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/04

orb - AltLd O/S - May/04 with Phil Worgan

orb - AltLd O/S - Apr/04 with Phil Worgan

dycotiles - AltLd O/S - 2004 with Pascal

paul m hadley - 2004

DMMDM
Marq - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/03 with Daniel Dennehy

Gman - Lead O/S - Jul/03 with Eamon, Sean

Led Ps 2&4 (steep slab & wall).
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/03 with ChrisA

Hidden - 2nd - 2002

Hidden - 2nd - 01/May/00

chris wyatt - AltLd O/S - 2000 with JAck Graham

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/99

aged_ape - May/99 with Matt O

John HW - Lead - Jun/98 with Bill Nicholson

Led 1,2,4. DR 3 & 5.
iskra2000 - AltLd - 31/Mar/97 with Danuska Rycerz

Marti999 - Lead - May/96

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1996

solid VS - found the traverse and crack easy - the slab below I found a bit tricky
Ian Archer - AltLd - 19/Jul/95 with Ron Humphries

colin milton - AltLd - 23/Jun/94 with eric milton

JiveWeasel - AltLd - 28/May/94 with Al H

In the pissing rain in big boots. What a laff.
Nick Biven - AltLd - 09/Nov/91 with Ray Jenkins

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Aug/90

Walked over from Fronwydyr and back
RichardMc - AltLd - 28/Apr/90 with Zbysek Lustyk, Angel Vila

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 11/Oct/87 with dave lloyd

babymoac - Lead - 26/Sep/87 with Chris B

mikej - Lead - 15/Sep/79 with Mike Mason

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/79

A very classic day. Approach via Gashed Crag.
Gordon Stainforth - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/78 with Harry Woodbridge

Falko - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/75 with Al W.

I have pencilled 'Superb weather. Boots' beside the route description in my copy of the Ron James guide.
Falko - Lead - 01/Apr/75 with Al W.

Bolt Phobia - AltLd - 03/Feb/75

Hidden - 2nd - May/74

RichardMc - AltLd - 06/Sep/73 with Harry Woodbridge

In mountain boots
David Smith - Lead O/S - Jul/71 with George Wilson

NWMC meet. Started a supposed girdle of Tryfan from Grooved Arete when well up South Gully saw a ledge leading out across the steep left wall. With a bit of rope jigerry pokery reversed it and got onto the wall to find Ron James on the crux of Munich just below. Traversed left over ledges and up finishing on Gashed crag
oldmanofmow - Lead - 02/Apr/62

John Robertson. John led the crux, its a bit airy and hairy for a couple of moves. Enjoyed Teufels Crack
oldmanofmow - AltLd - 25/Jun/61

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Voting
Total votes cast 46
hard E10 of 8
E10 of 8
easy E10 of 8
hard HVS0 of 8
HVS4 of 8
easy HVS1 of 8
hard VS3 of 8
VS0 of 8
easy VS0 of 8
hard 5b0 of 8
5b0 of 8
easy 5b0 of 8
hard 5a0 of 8
5a4 of 8
easy 5a0 of 8
hard 4c4 of 8
4c0 of 8
easy 4c0 of 8
3 Stars16 of 30
2 Stars13 of 30
1 Star1 of 30
0 Stars0 of 30
Bag of .....0 of 30
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Style of ascent

Lead27 of 123 (22.0%)
Followed12 of 123 (9.8%)
Alt Leads70 of 123 (56.9%)
Unknown14 of 123 (11.4%)

'Climbed'66 of 123 (53.7%)
clean O/S53 of 123 (43.1%)
clean β1 of 123 (0.8%)
dogged1 of 123 (0.8%)
dnf2 of 123 (1.6%)