This climb is in 18 logbooks, and on 18 wishlists.
A magic day out...a long tongue of Ice extends down the clean slab, great weather, great climbing, lochnagar is a special place indeed! The top bulge of the 2nd pitch is easily one of the finest ice pitches in Scotland..
simon_D - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/12 with Ross, Dunners
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Feb/12
Totally awesome day! Best ice route I've done...anywhere! 2nd pitch is mega and, as below, no where near as steep as it appears from below.
Belay at the obvious platform about 30m up the corner. A full 60m pitch then takes you to the next belay in the gully (rhs, tat equipped).
James Dunn - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/12 with Simon D, Ross Mathers
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/12
Hidden - AltLd - 12/Feb/12
Hidden - 2012
Turned back on the dirct start after Stu took a fall on the second pitch. Gutted.
Smelly Fox - AltLd dnf - 11/Mar/11 with Stuart Kennedy
Tris's crux monkey burnt out at the final bulge, lowered off
s kennedy - Lead dnf - 11/Mar/11 with tris fox
First 70m very tough and unrelenting....looks nothing like pictures in 'Cold climbs', there is no chimney any more.All the belays were poor. Tried to finish up groove to right of rock buttress; conditions awful, soft snow on rock slabs. Eventually, about 50m from top, decided to ab off route....scarey.Very serious route, would be significantly easier if neve up high.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd dnf - 11/Mar/11 with Steve Grove
Amazing route, one of the best I've done in Scotland - looks impossible but much better ice than it appears and not that steep, just rather intimidating up the groove. Best done in two pitches but the belay is a bit hard to find. Direct route over a bulge higher up is an excellent finish and perfect snow ice to the cornice.....About VI,5 today but could easily be harder or easier depending on ice build up. Still a three star mega classic!! Wow! (PS Started at 1pm which was a little late but then we didn't leave Aviemore till 9am - :-) )
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Kiwi Steve
Started on Tough-Brown Traverse but got distracted by a nice looking ice pitch. Gear hard to find - made all the more difficult by having left the ice screws in the car.
gforce - AltLd - 14/Mar/10 with Dirk
Graham led 1st pitch of Parallel Gully A, I led 1 pitch of Tough-Brown traverse then Graham led through the rest of Parallel Gully B, as he didn't pack any screws.
Dirk Wallis - 2nd - 14/Mar/10 with Grrr
Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jan/95
mark-abz - AltLd - 12/Mar/94 with Walter P
Hidden - AltLd - 1986
Excellent scenery, the final steep bit was interesting
Lone Rider - Solo - 02/Feb/85
Hidden - AltLd - 1985
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/84 with Dave Booth
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Cameron94, punj, peter.herd, Hidden, geoff.comley, Hidden, GaryK, joeydurkin, nvalentine760, alexanderjwatts, Hidden, MonkeyDawson, Ian Jones, Hidden, michael83, Mark020, dunx55