Pinnacle Buttress Direct HS 4a
[Perfect end to the day, 2 kb]Start at the top of the steps, beneath the foot of the buttress.
1) 4a. Climb the block, moving right, to its edge (small spike); then move round to the top of the chimney. Belay.
2) 4a.Climb up over blocks, to a wall with a jagged crack on its left. Climb this crack, and belay on the ledge.
3) 4a. Climb the crack in the wall, leaving it to go up direct. Climb over the
pinnacle, and step across the gap to a short wall; this wall leads to the belay. The gap has been jumped, starting from the very top of the pinnacle: The Devilís Jump. VARIATION
3a) 4a. Move out right, from the ledge; take the overhang direct (bold), and climb to the pinnacle. Step across to belay.
Unknown 01/Jan/1960

Photo: Perfect end to the day © Kafoozalem
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This climb is in 200 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/15

AEH - AltLd dog - 23/May/15

Accidentally done, meant to do PB.
ashsleight - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/15

lmacey - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/15

Jamo Walker - Lead dog - 17/Feb/15 with Aaron Thopson

Quite a nice route. Usually overlooked this in the past.
Richy boy - AltLd O/S - 09/Nov/14 with Eric D

waydan - AltLd - 01/Nov/14 with Rich, El Swiftos

bpw666 - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/14

Started up Pinnacle buttress but went wrong. Lead the second pitch.
chrismadar - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/14

Sean Kelly - Lead - 13/Aug/14 with Harry Pearce

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Jul/14

Gilbery - Lead - 09/Jul/14 with Gav Aplin

Alpine style. Went off route from the beginning - intended on doing Pinnacle Buttress but finished up on the wide crack.
OllieF - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/14 with Ant

ChrisGard - Lead - 05/Jul/14 with Kyle Maywood

Maywood96 - Lead - 05/Jul/14 with Chris Gard

Gilbery - Lead - 27/Jun/14 with pete campion

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/14

LDJ - AltLd - 05/Jun/14 with Oscar, Alfie, Lou

LDJ - AltLd - 05/Jun/14 with Oscar, Alfie, Lou

csd23 - Lead O/S - Jun/14 with Richard Dodds

Joe_88 - 2nd O/S - 13/May/14

Good lead for Adam and rope work revision for him.
waydan - 2nd - 25/Apr/14 with Adam Buldock

Brilliat climb Really enjoyed this climb, sun was shining through the trees, nice little scramble to route, lots of protection and a good opportunity to brush up on rope work, crux for me was right at the start of second pitch, lots of pro at this point, nice delicate couple of moves takes you directly to a bivi jug, third pitch is very interesting, definitely recommend a big cam for this one otherwise you end up having to solo the off width crack to shelf, great set of straightforward moves...once you have conquered your head game (if no big cams present) really happy with this climb as it felt really comfortable which hopefully shows my climbing is going in the right direction, Great evening with steiner
adam84 - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/14 with wayne killerstein

brew_guru - Solo - 19/Apr/14

Only direct at the top, up wide crack and over pinnacle (as per usual description of route). Only belayed below top crack.
andrewmcleod - Lead rpt - 12/Apr/14 with Rowan Dhruev, Keiha Dhruev

In boots.
Merlin - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/14 with John Stewart

BigJ - 2nd dog - 09/Apr/14 with Merlin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/14

hard to protect crux, ran in one pitch, not a great idea as the rope drag at the top was terrible :)
paul reah - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/14 with Colin Sharp

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Mar/14

Simon cook - 2014

Ran pitches 1&2 and 3&4 together. The mossy slab was wet and terrifying, so traversed right probably too low and used the tree for physical (and moral) support. Strictly speaking probably didn't do quite the right second pitch? Swung out to the right before coming back in for the final pinnacle crack (protected by big cam).
andrewmcleod - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/13 with Rosa Williams

neiloutdoors - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Tracy

Raining, led p2, p3.
Mr Tickle - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/13 with Paul

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd dog - 26/Aug/13

Tomasz Kawka - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Oms

Fatclimber - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/13 with Dean Chapman

Atlast returned to finsh this route having backed off with another climber. The top crack line def thin on gear on committing moves
kiwi boy - Lead β - 10/Aug/13 with christine

Hidden - Lead β - 10/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/13

a few testing moves on the cracks - not very well protected throughout
Babika - Lead - 06/Jul/13 with Robbie Jones, gerald

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead - Jun/13

D.botts87 - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/13

Hidden - Solo rpt - 20/Apr/13

Sun out good day
mike hooper - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with john martin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/13

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Mar/13

MBano - AltLd - 30/Mar/13 with Steve W

climberkayaker - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/13 with will hornby

Lauren Davies - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/13 with Jayne Yeomans

Hidden - 14/Oct/12

Was really quite slimy in some parts due to it raining.
Maywood96 - 2nd O/S - 13/Oct/12 with Jen George, Chris lucas

waydan - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12 with El Swiftos

Ahhh ... it's an HS if you go straight up over the pinnacle.. we did wonder.
Psychlane - AltLd - 23/Aug/12 with Plov

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jun/12

lmacey - Lead - 26/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/12

Teaching series
DOVEY - 16/Apr/12 with Joe, Nic

Joe Richards - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/12 with DOVEY

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Mar/12

Philippa Arding - AltLd - 24/Mar/12 with jo nosworthy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/12

Joel Perkin - Lead O/S - 2012 with James Edgecombe, Mike Garret

MBarraclough - Lead - 2012

p2-melhuish - Lead - Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 15/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Sep/11

ben lead
Jordon Fleming - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/11 with ben darby

Orifice - Lead β - 14/Jun/11 with AdamColwill

Spilt into 2 pitches. Led p2, last crack easier than it looked!
Cheese Monkey - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/11 with Goss

A lot trickier than i was expecting, led the second pitch from the path, tough for me lead ofrom the ledge straight up the main crack. Easy step at the end, small uh-oh moment only due to long run out. Still, all's well that ends well...
jamadam - AltLd O/S - 24/May/11 with Russell

MissMuddypenny - 2nd - 17/May/11

dellboy - AltLd O/S - 16/May/11 with Graham Braithwaite

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/11

Orifice - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/11 with James Dell

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11

Westcorkman - AltLd - 02/Apr/11 with Bob Dawson

Cath lead.
BelayBunney - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Catherine, Francois

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11

Hidden - Solo rpt - 22/Mar/11

Joby - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Alice Fuller

chappers909 - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/11 with Luke wheeldon

Hidden - Solo rpt - 16/Mar/11

minexplorer - Lead - 13/Mar/11 with jordan

p2-melhuish - 2011

CptRicActiv - Lead β - 2011

djromberg - 2011

Orifice - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/10 with Roy Harris

Led pitch 1&2. Interesting step over at the top.
dpiddock - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/10 with James C

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Sep/10

1st and 3rd for me, 2nd for Jamie. Confusion over first pitch, how direct do you take the slab behind the tree? or traverse to small chimney/gully?
paulerussell - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Claudia, Jamie Lewis

warm up
minexplorer - Lead - 09/Jul/10

Luuuuuke - Solo O/S - 26/Jun/10

El3ctroFuzz - Solo rpt - 26/Jun/10 with Alex Orrrrrrr - Green giant

A severe. ledges and 1 boulder problem.
El3ctroFuzz - Solo O/S - 05/Jun/10

nailed the top pitch on a set of stacked hexes.... SCARRRYYYY!!!!
GarethSL - AltLd O/S - 23/May/10 with Rosie Hutchins

Lead first pitch - was more of a HVD / S - got two moves up the second pitch and wished i had a cam bigger than the size of my fist - downclimbed set up a belay and let Gareth finnish it.... using stacked hexes.... not for me!!! the holds are all there but its trying to find them whist hanging on with a smear and no foot holds!! a lovely climb on a beta i think!
Rosie Hutchins - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with Gareth Lord

Top crack solo was a bit interesting but the holds are all there... tried to move as quietly as possible to not disturb th birds nesting in the top of the crack!
andybuckley - Solo - 22/May/10

Matt02003 - Solo O/S - May/10 with Matt, James

Did not finish. Climbed first pich with what felt like a 4a 4b move but did not fancy leading the second with an uncertain topout. Bailed out
kiwi boy - Lead dnf - 17/Apr/10 with mark Rawlings

Orifice - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/10 with Danny Ryder, Stafford Dyer

Hidden - Lead - 03/Apr/10

missed out that horrible unprotected slab at bottom covered in moss
minexplorer - Lead rpt - 21/Mar/10

Jimma - 2nd O/S - Mar/10 with Matt

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/10

relik - Lead - 2010

martin clarke - Lead - 2010 with steve ashworth

minexplorer - Lead - 13/Oct/09

matthoey - 2nd - 26/Sep/09 with Brian Usher

did the correct route this time.last time went up a awkward very overgrown crack "around the right arete" says in dewerstone guide(ie: left side of mucky gully).has anyone thought of that route i wonder, doesnt seem to be in the guide
minexplorer - Lead - 25/Sep/09 with grant newcombe

what a gardening exercize,think went wrong way.bloody useless guidebook again.went up the very overgrown wide cracks on the front just left of mucky gulley?fun tho an prob harder
minexplorer - Lead - 17/Sep/09 with grant newcombe

Paragonthewise - 2nd - 17/Sep/09 with rad

led second pitch.
argyle_dude - AltLd O/S - 23/May/09 with Harry Andrews

Led first pitch.
grumpyoldjanner - AltLd O/S - 23/May/09 with argyle_dude

Filthy - Lead - 05/May/09 with Lucy Matthews, Laura Church

Only last 2 pitches?
BruceW - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with Becca, Alex, Dot

wildbill - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/09 with Faith Cook

Will_Murray - Solo - 02/Apr/09 with Oliver Wheeldon

Hidden - Solo rpt - 25/Mar/09

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 19/Mar/09

Merlin - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/09

Kate Edhouse - AltLd - 28/Feb/09 with James Clapham

adamscottthomas - Lead O/S - 22/Nov/08 with Tony

Popkids - 2nd - 22/Nov/08 with Adam

Tez339 - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/08 with GARY BENSLEY, MIKE ARUNDEL

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Sep/08

Led 2nd pitch, which Dave says was the hardest. Nice jump over to the finish!
seanthesheep - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/08 with Dave Bauld

Hidden - Solo - 20/Jul/08

Hidden - Solo O/S - 27/Jun/08

JonHarvey - Lead rpt - 17/Jun/08 with Jayne-o

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/08

Popkids - Lead O/S - 18/May/08 with Kafoozalem

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/08

Rock Lizard - 2nd - Apr/08

Clean this time- much less effort than I remembered.
nikinko - 2nd rpt - 22/Mar/08 with 184Dave

ash smash - Lead rpt - Feb/08

Hidden - 2008

Phil79 - Solo O/S - 2008

Matt Bennett - Lead O/S - Oct/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/07

Didn't enjoy this much at all (although I think it might have been me rather than the climb), two moments of terror with boredom in between. - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/07 with jamesca

pm03jgs - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/07 with Ben Land

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/07

Zoomer - AltLd - 22/Aug/07 with Julia Bloomer

Jules 210681 - AltLd - 22/Aug/07 with glenn bloomer

francois - 11/Aug/07 with Lorna and Duncan

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Aug/07

Omitted 1st pitch and then run pitches 2 & 3 together. Donít recommend this - too much rope drag.
tonymw - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/07 with Phil Anderson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/07

Led pitch one (diff) First time out after a few weeks off. Took a bit of getting head back.
nikinko - AltLd rpt - 06/Jun/07 with Dave and Alex

rockpool - AltLd - Jun/07 with peter

dellboy - Lead O/S - 01/May/07 with Roy Harris

Lovely climb. Soloed up to the bottom of the first crack, then led both pitches in one from there. Wasn't going to, but the second pitch looked so much fun that I gave it a shot, and wizzed up it! Stacked hexes in the offwidth made for an interesting headgame.
freelancer_85 - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/07 with Dave

decided this look safer than the diff solo! the final pitch took a few attempts to start. Didn't realise it was HS till i reached the top!
pottsworth - Lead - 03/Mar/07 with Kat

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Mar/07

climber sim - 2007

Planned to go up Pinnacle Buttress and started up the chimney but I messed the route finding on my lead and took us up the direct route of the second pitch. Fell from direct route on lead, swapped lead and seconded it with no probs. Woosed out of the step across from the pinnacle. Learned not to build a belay in a crack my partner's about to try and climb!
nikinko - AltLd dog - 15/Oct/06 with Nix and Dave

and Nikki. Led pitch 1
Nix Ward - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/06 with 184Dave

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 15/Oct/06

Hidden - Lead β - 14/Oct/06

eugeneth - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/06 with Jay

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 07/Oct/06

Justin T - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/06 with Wifey

joeym - Lead O/S - May/06

JonHarvey - Lead O/S - Feb/06 with Dave Moir

cia05js - Lead O/S - 2006

dmoir - AltLd O/S - Dec/05 with Jon Harvey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/05

thompson1000 - Lead - 13/Jul/05

Jon Evans - Lead - 10/Apr/05

Hidden - Solo - 2005

James B - Lead - 04/May/03 with Nigel

Hidden - Lead - 2003

Hidden - AltLd - 2003

jonberry791 - Lead O/S - 06/May/02

Frostie - Lead - 2002 with various

petegunn - AltLd - 22/Jan/00 with Scott Fraiser, Matt Wilkes

NickP - 2000

Steveb27 - Lead - 2000

Hidden - Lead - Apr/97

Iain Thow - Lead - 11/May/96 with Andy Hodges

iskra2000 - 2nd - 05/Apr/96 with Paul Woodcock

John Simpson - Lead - 1994 with Tim Harnett

colin milton - AltLd - 21/Nov/93 with eric milton

climbingrichard - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/92

timreynolds - Lead - 17/May/91 with Chris Gibson

daviesdan - Lead - 1989

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/87

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/82

mark-abz - Lead - 19/Jun/81 with Graham W

rockpool - Lead O/S - 29/Feb/80 with doug brown

Simon cook - Oct/75

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
James A.S Read, jhobbs, graham knott

Total votes cast 72
hard VS0 of 28
VS0 of 28
easy VS0 of 28
hard HS0 of 28
HS20 of 28
easy HS6 of 28
hard S2 of 28
S0 of 28
easy S0 of 28
hard 4b0 of 24
4b0 of 24
easy 4b1 of 24
hard 4a14 of 24
4a7 of 24
easy 4a2 of 24
hard 3c0 of 24
3c0 of 24
easy 3c0 of 24
3 Stars0 of 20
2 Stars4 of 20
1 Star14 of 20
0 Stars2 of 20
Bag of .....0 of 20
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat