Start at the top of the steps, beneath the foot of the buttress.
1) 4a. Climb the block, moving right, to its edge (small spike); then move round to the top of the chimney. Belay.
2) 4a.Climb up over blocks, to a wall with a jagged crack on its left. Climb this crack, and belay on the ledge.
3) 4a. Climb the crack in the wall, leaving it to go up direct. Climb over the
pinnacle, and step across the gap to a short wall; this wall leads to the belay. The gap has been jumped, starting from the very top of the pinnacle: The Devilís Jump. VARIATION
3a) 4a. Move out right, from the ledge; take the overhang direct (bold), and climb to the pinnacle. Step across to belay.

Unknown 01/Jan/1960

Tegan 10/May Lead


francois 20/Apr -
with Tommaso, Ben
rufusbell 02/Apr TR
with salts
Hidden 13/Mar Lead
Hidden 21/Jan Solo rpt
Hidden 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
AEH 23/May/15 AltLd dog
ashsleight 21/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Accidentally done, meant to do PB.

lmacey 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Jamo Walker 17/Feb/15 Lead dog
with Aaron Thopson
Hidden 09/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
waydan 01/Nov/14 AltLd
with Rich, El Swiftos
bpw666 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
benjaminloveday 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
chrismadar 05/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Started up Pinnacle buttress but went wrong. Lead the second pitch.

Hidden 05/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Sean Kelly 13/Aug/14 Lead
with Harry Pearce
RANGITOTO 20/Jul/14 AltLd

Pitch 1

with Pete
Gilbery 09/Jul/14 Lead
OllieF 09/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Alpine style. Went off route from the beginning - intended on doing Pinnacle Buttress but finished up on the wide crack.

with Ant
ChrisGard 05/Jul/14 Lead
Maywood96 05/Jul/14 Lead
Gilbery 27/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
LDJ 05/Jun/14 AltLd
with Oscar, Alfie, Lou
LDJ 05/Jun/14 AltLd
with Oscar, Alfie, Lou
csd23 ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Richard Dodds
Joe_88 13/May/14 2nd O/S
waydan 25/Apr/14 2nd

Good lead for Adam and rope work revision for him.

with Adam Buldock
adam84 24/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Brilliat climb Really enjoyed this climb, sun was shining through the trees, nice little scramble to route, lots of protection and a good opportunity to brush up on rope work, crux for me was right at the start of second pitch, lots of pro at this point, nice delicate couple of moves takes you directly to a bivi jug, third pitch is very interesting, definitely recommend a big cam for this one otherwise you end up having to solo the off width crack to shelf, great set of straightforward moves...once you have conquered your head game (if no big cams present) really happy with this climb as it felt really comfortable which hopefully shows my climbing is going in the right direction, Great evening with steiner

brew_guru 19/Apr/14 Solo
andrewmcleod 12/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Only direct at the top, up wide crack and over pinnacle (as per usual description of route). Only belayed below top crack.

with Rowan Dhruev, Keiha Dhruev
Merlin 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S

In boots.

with John Stewart
BigJ 09/Apr/14 2nd dog
with Merlin
Hidden 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
paul reah 10/Mar/14 Lead O/S

hard to protect crux, ran in one pitch, not a great idea as the rope drag at the top was terrible :)

with Colin Sharp
jacobjohncharles 10/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Simon cook ??/2014 -
andrewmcleod 07/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Ran pitches 1&2 and 3&4 together. The mossy slab was wet and terrifying, so traversed right probably too low and used the tree for physical (and moral) support. Strictly speaking probably didn't do quite the right second pitch? Swung out to the right before coming back in for the final pinnacle crack (protected by big cam).

with Rosa Williams
neiloutdoors 22/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Tracy
Mr Tickle 21/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Raining, led p2, p3.

with Paul
Hidden 28/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 26/Aug/13 AltLd dog
Tomasz Kawka 26/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Oms
Fatclimber 22/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Dean Chapman
kiwi boy 10/Aug/13 Lead β

Atlast returned to finsh this route having backed off with another climber. The top crack line def thin on gear on committing moves

with christine
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead β
Hidden 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Babika 06/Jul/13 Lead

a few testing moves on the cracks - not very well protected throughout

with Robbie Jones, gerald
Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/13 Lead
D.botts87 29/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Solo rpt
mike hooper 06/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Sun out good day

with john martin
Samuel Wainwright 04/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with Matt Greenwood
Steve Woollard 30/Mar/13 AltLd
MBano 30/Mar/13 AltLd
with Steve W
climberkayaker 28/Mar/13 Lead O/S
hornbywill 28/Mar/13 Solo O/S
Lauren Davies 13/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Jayne Yeomans
Hidden 14/Oct/12 -
Maywood96 13/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Was really quite slimy in some parts due to it raining.

with Jen George, Chris lucas
waydan 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Psychlane 23/Aug/12 AltLd

Ahhh ... it's an HS if you go straight up over the pinnacle.. we did wonder.

with Plov
Hidden 30/Jun/12 2nd
lmacey 26/May/12 Lead
Hidden 24/May/12 Lead O/S
DOVEY 16/Apr/12 -

Teaching series

with Joe, Nic
Joe Richards 16/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with DOVEY
Hidden 14/Apr/12 2nd
Hidden 29/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Philippa Arding 24/Mar/12 AltLd
with jo nosworthy
Hidden 24/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Joel Perkin ??/2012 Lead O/S
with James Edgecombe, Mike Garret
MBarraclough ??/2012 Lead
p2-melhuish ?/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 15/Sep/11 Lead rpt
Jordon Fleming 21/Jul/11 2nd O/S

ben lead

Orifice 14/Jun/11 Lead β
Cheese Monkey 08/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Spilt into 2 pitches. Led p2, last crack easier than it looked!

with Goss
jamadam 24/May/11 AltLd O/S

A lot trickier than i was expecting, led the second pitch from the path, tough for me lead ofrom the ledge straight up the main crack. Easy step at the end, small uh-oh moment only due to long run out. Still, all's well that ends well...

with Russell
MissMuddypenny 17/May/11 2nd
dellboy 16/May/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Orifice 12/Apr/11 Lead O/S
dellboy 12/Apr/11 2nd
with Jason
Hidden 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Westcorkman 02/Apr/11 AltLd
with Bob Dawson
BelayBunney 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Cath lead.

Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/11 Solo rpt
Joby 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Alice Fuller
chappers909 16/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Mar/11 Solo rpt
minexplorer 13/Mar/11 Lead
with jordan
p2-melhuish ??/2011 -
CptRicActiv ??/2011 Lead β
djromberg ??/2011 -
Orifice 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Roy Harris
dpiddock 26/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1&2. Interesting step over at the top.

with James C
Hidden 26/Sep/10 AltLd
Hidden 25/Sep/10 AltLd
paulerussell 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

1st and 3rd for me, 2nd for Jamie. Confusion over first pitch, how direct do you take the slab behind the tree? or traverse to small chimney/gully?

with Claudia, Jamie Lewis
minexplorer 09/Jul/10 Lead

warm up

Luuuuuke 26/Jun/10 Solo O/S
El3ctroFuzz 26/Jun/10 Solo rpt
with Alex Orrrrrrr - Green giant
El3ctroFuzz 05/Jun/10 Solo O/S

A severe. ledges and 1 boulder problem.

GarethSL 23/May/10 AltLd O/S

nailed the top pitch on a set of stacked hexes.... SCARRRYYYY!!!!

Rosie Hutchins 23/May/10 Lead O/S

Lead first pitch - was more of a HVD / S - got two moves up the second pitch and wished i had a cam bigger than the size of my fist - downclimbed set up a belay and let Gareth finnish it.... using stacked hexes.... not for me!!! the holds are all there but its trying to find them whist hanging on with a smear and no foot holds!! a lovely climb on a beta i think!

andybuckley 22/May/10 Solo

Top crack solo was a bit interesting but the holds are all there... tried to move as quietly as possible to not disturb th birds nesting in the top of the crack!

Matt02003 ?/May/10 Solo O/S
with Matt, James
kiwi boy 17/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Did not finish. Climbed first pich with what felt like a 4a 4b move but did not fancy leading the second with an uncertain topout. Bailed out

with mark Rawlings
Orifice 13/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Danny Ryder, Stafford Dyer
Steve Woollard 03/Apr/10 Lead
with Bob Dawson
minexplorer 21/Mar/10 Lead rpt

missed out that horrible unprotected slab at bottom covered in moss

Jimma ?/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Matt
Hidden 02/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
relik ??/2010 Lead
martin clarke ??/2010 Lead
minexplorer 13/Oct/09 Lead
matthoey 26/Sep/09 2nd
with Brian Usher
minexplorer 25/Sep/09 Lead

did the correct route this time.last time went up a awkward very overgrown crack "around the right arete" says in dewerstone guide(ie: left side of mucky gully).has anyone thought of that route i wonder, doesnt seem to be in the guide

with grant newcombe
minexplorer 17/Sep/09 Lead

what a gardening exercize,think went wrong way.bloody useless guidebook again.went up the very overgrown wide cracks on the front just left of mucky gulley?fun tho an prob harder

with grant newcombe
Paragonthewise 17/Sep/09 2nd
with rad
argyle_dude 23/May/09 AltLd O/S

led second pitch.

grumpyoldjanner 23/May/09 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch.

Filthy 05/May/09 Lead
with Lucy Matthews, Laura Church
BruceW 02/May/09 Lead O/S

Only last 2 pitches?

with Becca, Alex, Dot
wildbill 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Faith Cook
Will_Murray 02/Apr/09 Solo
with Oliver Wheeldon
Hidden 25/Mar/09 Solo rpt
Hidden 19/Mar/09 AltLd rpt
Merlin 19/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Kate Edhouse 28/Feb/09 AltLd
with James Clapham
adamscottthomas 22/Nov/08 Lead O/S


with Tony
Popkids 22/Nov/08 2nd
with Adam
Tez339 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/08 AltLd
seanthesheep 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch, which Dave says was the hardest. Nice jump over to the finish!

with Dave Bauld
Hidden 20/Jul/08 Solo
Hidden 27/Jun/08 Solo O/S
JonHarvey 17/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Jayne-o
Hidden 17/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Popkids 18/May/08 Lead O/S
with Kafoozalem
Hidden 02/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Rock Lizard ?/Apr/08 2nd
nikinko 22/Mar/08 2nd rpt

Clean this time- much less effort than I remembered.

with 184Dave
ash smash ?/Feb/08 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2008 -
Phil79 ??/2008 Solo O/S
Matt Bennett ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/07 AltLd O/S 28/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Didn't enjoy this much at all (although I think it might have been me rather than the climb), two moments of terror with boredom in between.

with jamesca
pm03jgs 19/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Ben Land
Hidden 24/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Zoomer 22/Aug/07 AltLd
Jules 210681 22/Aug/07 AltLd
francois 11/Aug/07 -
with Lorna and Duncan
Hidden 11/Aug/07 2nd
tonymw 09/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Omitted 1st pitch and then run pitches 2 & 3 together. Donít recommend this - too much rope drag.

with Phil Anderson
Hidden 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/07 Lead O/S
nikinko 06/Jun/07 AltLd rpt

Led pitch one (diff) First time out after a few weeks off. Took a bit of getting head back.

with Dave and Alex
rockpool ?/Jun/07 AltLd
with peter
dellboy 01/May/07 Lead O/S
with Roy Harris
freelancer_85 11/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Lovely climb. Soloed up to the bottom of the first crack, then led both pitches in one from there. Wasn't going to, but the second pitch looked so much fun that I gave it a shot, and wizzed up it! Stacked hexes in the offwidth made for an interesting headgame.

with Dave
pottsworth 03/Mar/07 Lead

decided this look safer than the diff solo! the final pitch took a few attempts to start. Didn't realise it was HS till i reached the top!

with Kat
Hidden 03/Mar/07 2nd O/S
climber sim ??/2007 -
nikinko 15/Oct/06 AltLd dog

Planned to go up Pinnacle Buttress and started up the chimney but I messed the route finding on my lead and took us up the direct route of the second pitch. Fell from direct route on lead, swapped lead and seconded it with no probs. Woosed out of the step across from the pinnacle. Learned not to build a belay in a crack my partner's about to try and climb!

with Nix and Dave
Nix Ward 15/Oct/06 AltLd O/S

and Nikki. Led pitch 1

with 184Dave
Hidden 15/Oct/06 AltLd rpt
Hidden 14/Oct/06 Lead β
eugeneth 07/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Jay
Hidden 07/Oct/06 2nd rpt
Justin T 27/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Wifey
joeym ?/May/06 Lead O/S
JonHarvey ?/Feb/06 Lead O/S
cia05js ??/2006 Lead O/S
dmoir ?/Dec/05 AltLd O/S
with Jon Harvey
Hidden 23/Aug/05 Lead O/S
thompson1000 13/Jul/05 Lead
Jon Evans 10/Apr/05 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 Solo
James B 04/May/03 Lead
with Nigel
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd
jonberry791 06/May/02 Lead O/S
Frostie ??/2002 Lead
with various
petegunn 22/Jan/00 AltLd
with Scott Fraiser, Matt Wilkes
Hidden 22/Jan/00 AltLd
NickP ??/2000 -
Steveb27 ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/97 Lead
Iain Thow 11/May/96 Lead
with Andy Hodges
iskra2000 05/Apr/96 2nd
with Paul Woodcock
John Andrew Simpson ??/1994 Lead
with Tim Harnett
colin milton 21/Nov/93 AltLd
with eric milton
climbingrichard 06/Aug/92 Lead O/S


timreynolds 17/May/91 Lead
with Chris Gibson
daviesdan ??/1989 Lead
Hidden 01/Jun/87 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/82 Lead O/S
mark-abz 19/Jun/81 Lead
with Graham W
rockpool 29/Feb/80 Lead O/S
with doug brown
Simon cook ?/Oct/75 -
uphillnow ??/1964 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
GeorgeR, James A.S Read, jhobbs, graham knott
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 28
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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