Hautes-Alpes > Aiguille de Sialouze >
 
Super Pilou*** TD

Adjacent Climbs
<< None
 
Attaque a main armee >>
400m. F5+/6a max on fantastic granite which becomes more weathered and rough as height is gained. Good but sparse bolts, worth taking a light rack. After the shoulder retreat by rappel is difficult. Descend by making 10 raps down the main part of the face.
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 8 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

A nice relaxed start, left Sele Hut at about 08.30 and started the route about 10.30. This was about just right as the sun was just beginning to warm the bottom pitch which still felt cold & tricky. We were showered with shards of ice as the sun melted icicles higher up on the face. We completed the route at 16.30 - just within the guide time of 4-6 hours. We located the ab anchors, a French team was just in front so all we had to do was follow them down - what could be easier? However, they were out of sight by the time I reached a breche behind a tower which was 30m down on the first ab - which way, left or right out of the breche? The guide says the abs trend generally right (looking in) so I opted for that choice-wrong!! I subsequently found out from the French team that you shoud exit left (looking in) from the breche on the first ab. They took about 1.5 hours for the descent whereas we took about 4.0 hours and had some anxious moments locating/backing up anchors, releasing jammed ropes etc. We got to the sacks about 20.30 and had a moonlight/torchlight scramble back to the hut at 22.30. On the plus side, we were able to ab directly over the snow patches at the foot of the crag and so reach easy ground without the need for an ice axe. Overall, an excellent and enjoyable route and a fitting finale to my 6 week trip to the Ecrins! We took wires 1-10 & Camalots 0.4, 0.5,0.75, 1,2,3
Pete Nugent - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/11 with Alex Reid

Hidden - 10/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/09

blouise - Aug/09 with konrad rawlik

Only did one pitch. A bit more committing than we'd hoped for. Started climbing by 7am, and I got hot aches. Bloody long walk in.
Cardi - 2nd dnf - 22/Jul/08 with Andy F

jimdanson - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/06 with dan middleton

Nearly taken out by rockfall whilst descending in an approaching storm. Brilliant route.
danm - AltLd - Aug/06 with Jim Danson

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 05/Aug/91 with Lyn Benjamin

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
RM199, stuart34, oliverk, Martin Haworth

Voting
Total votes cast 2
hard TD+0 of 1
TD+0 of 1
easy TD+0 of 1
hard TD0 of 1
TD1 of 1
easy TD0 of 1
hard TD-0 of 1
TD-0 of 1
easy TD-0 of 1
3 Stars1 of 1
2 Stars0 of 1
1 Star0 of 1
0 Stars0 of 1
Bag of .....0 of 1
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.