UKC

15m. This worthwhile route could use a little more traffic. Start down and slightly left of the large left-facing corner, which develops fully at half height, beneath a shot hole in a shallow scoop about 3 m above ground. Climb ledges to the shot hole and arrange micro-wire and/or micro-cam if needed. Lead up to the sloping ledge at 5 m and arrange more positive protection before climbing up and right over the first roof into the big corner where a pair bolts is found. Clip one or both of these bolts and climb over the second roof and boldly up the corner hopefully finding gear (small cams useful) for the vegetated top-out. [Moderator's note: a bit of time spent clearing the top-out area in advance pays dividends...]

FA. F.Cannings, D.Morrod, J.Braven 31/Mar/1963.

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Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - North Face

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Route of Interest
Albion

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Lundy)

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