Derbyshire > Stanage Plantation >
The Groper* VS 4c

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[Having a little trouble, 2 kb]12m. Climb the front of the pillar then move right for an exposed finish via a crack that splits the nose. © ROCKFAX
Les Gillott early 1960s 1962

Ticklists: Stanage Routes Graded List, Stanage 100 VD - VS.

Photo: Having a little trouble © lesleyann
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This climb is in 99 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Hidden - TR - 25/Jun/14

WillDoyle - 2nd - 31/May/14

Fuck off VS. HVS fo sho.
dr_botnik - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/14 with Phil Taylor

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Jamie

JamieSparkes - 2nd rpt - 29/Mar/14 with Nick

kermit_uk - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Phil Parkin

fall with cam breaking one of the layers of rock in the upper part. rock hit me on forehead, lost a front tooth
Lotoni - Lead dnf - Nov/13 with kuz

tough for grade. pumpy and rounded holds at top.
mark4344 - 2nd - 28/Sep/13 with derek, Matt Payne

This route is nails! Lead the crux/top after Phil backed off, went off-route to the right, but still obscenely strong finish. Not VS by any stretch of the imagination!
Merlin - Lead dog - 10/Aug/13 with Polly Withers, Phil Chalkley

MaccMark - 2nd - 13/Jul/13

Clay C - Lead dog - 13/Jul/13 with Emma

Nice, unlikely VS
JimboWizbo - 2nd - 13/Jul/13 with Beth

Great and powerful moved over the split nose. I have to say I rested for a bit on this one, but not on the rope- still O/S??. Retreated a meter or so to rest properly then went for it lay back and reach up style. scary, exposed and fantastic
Beth-Cath-T - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with JimboWizbo

Lumbering Oaf - 2nd dog - 01/Jun/13 with Rach Batt

Monkey practice
Batt - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Matt Box

Hidden - 20/Apr/13

alastairbegley - Lead dog - 20/Apr/13 with David West

hard work cold hands hanging upside down fun
the power - Lead dog - 13/Jan/13 with paul29uk

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jan/13

Fell off just before the top. Hard for VS!
Jackwd - Lead dog - 04/Oct/12 with Laurel Sleet, Charley Fell, Kev Titheradge, Angela Paul

Had to rest on top move, strenuous rather than difficult
valentinesbabe - 2nd dog - 04/Oct/12 with Jack Drake, Charley Fell, Kevin Tithe

Tithe Technique - TR dog - 04/Oct/12 with Angela Paul

Bit of a stiff warm-up route on a cold afternoon after not a climbing for awhile. Actually found it okay and easier then everyone else but I was 4th up so didn't have to place or remove gear.. Think I would of felt different on lead..
charley - 2nd O/S - 04/Oct/12 with JackD, Ange, Kev

Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/Sep/12

andy jennings - 2nd β - 01/Sep/12 with Mike

greglad - Lead - 25/Jul/12

Boy - Solo - 12/Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/May/12

Sebastien Gastaud - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Fabienne Gassman, Kirsty McLoud, Martin Oldham

stev1e.wilso - 2nd - 15/Apr/12 with Simon

simon1985 - Lead - 15/Apr/12 with Steve Wilson

why is this VS on here, never in a million years HVS for sure
Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 18/Mar/12 with Jim

Hidden - Lead dog - 17/Mar/12

Jonny M - TR O/S - 17/Mar/12 with Deborah Cole

excellent route - definitely an HVS 5a & probably deserves a second star (despite the midges today!)
danny269 - 2nd - 2012 with Keir

Hidden - 2012

This felt just as hard and possibly harder than right unconquerable. knee bar helps to rest and place gear before the top out.
owain86 - Lead β - 12/Nov/11 with Chris

best climb of the day! Juggy with lots of protection. It feels scary but that's because your pumped out and getting tided. had to use a knee bar to rest.. is this really a VS/4c? think not..
steve2006 - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with barry

fatbuoybazza - 2nd rpt - 15/Oct/11 with Stevsie

Si Croft - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Bernie, JD, Jos

Hidden - Lead dnf - 02/Aug/11

very sandy and crumbly where it matters. will took a good fall on this one going through the roof. I attempted the lead but backed off. not my cup of tea.
gb83 - Lead dnf - 02/Aug/11 with Will AHM

Top roped after failing to lead. Still found this very physically demanding, made the top with a few tight ropes to top out. Well under graded. HVS5A ?
Neil Rodgers (PCC) - TR dog - 31/Jul/11 with Marilyn, Mick Sissons

Hidden - TR - 31/Jul/11

paulerussell - TR dog - 24/Jul/11 with Matia Mallia

slacky - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/11 with Gary, Ben

Hidden - Lead dog - 26/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 26/Jun/11

JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 10/May/11 with DICS chris

Felt a bit pressing on the overhang and more like 5b, although less than perfect conditions probably didn't help.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/11 with Steve, Richard Williams

Danny Crump - 2nd - 27/Mar/11 with Sarah Pentelow, Tony Wood

Rachel Slater - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Jon Fane

tony wood - Lead dnf - 27/Mar/11 with Sarah P, Danny Crump

Shouldo had HVS fur this one..
fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/11 with liv_the_div

Hidden - Lead - 06/Mar/11

thekendo - 2nd O/S - 09/Jan/11 with andy peak 1

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 08/Jan/11

rockaddict - TR O/S - 2011

rockaddict - 2nd - 2011

davebonner - 2011

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 2011

HIGHTOWER - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Hannah

Tightsgirl - 2nd - 16/Oct/10 with Mark Freestone

Hidden - TR dog - 28/Aug/10

Did not trust the rock quality at the top, obvious recent damage in a few places. Take Care.
hobblingfool - Lead dnf - 26/Jun/10

Felt good getting the knee bar in but definitely more like HVS 5a!
Hexman - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/10 with James

ben_250 - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/10 with Tom

tomthecoolperson - Lead - 28/Apr/10 with Ben 250, Andrew

Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Apr/10

hamishclimb - TR - 22/Apr/10

buxtoncoffeelover - 2nd - 2010

Do you have to stay on the overhang and place gear hanging on your arms? Or can you move to the big block on the right, comfortably place a lot of gear before launching into the roof? I still fell on it when climbing the roof. I followed the crack - either I missed something obvious, or it's just slopers and no jugs to pull on - probably hard for a VS?
pawelx - Lead dog - 05/Oct/09

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Oct/09

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/09 with Nicky Shaw, Steve Harby

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd dog - 19/Sep/09

Had to rest getting past the overhang.
Monkey_Alan - Lead dog - 19/Sep/09 with Viskii Chicu

Fun hands off rest from a knee bar near the top
Diggler - 2nd - 29/Aug/09 with Paul V

Hidden - 2nd dog - Jul/09

schaff - Lead O/S - May/09

Hidden - Lead - 15/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead - 22/Nov/08

Got to the overhand and thought "gosh - steeper than it looked from down there" Another day...
bigbobbyking - Lead dnf - 19/Oct/08

Up, left - and don't stop!
JohnHutch - 2nd - 09/Oct/08 with MG

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/08 with Sarah Wysling

David Smith - 2nd - 2008

barni - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/07 with tom machine

Contrived start made worse by the expanding holly bush.
stp - Solo O/S - 02/May/07

Stig - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/05 with Jonathan Teale

Stig - 2nd dog - 20/Jun/05 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Ropeboy - Solo - 30/May/05

worth HVS and ** i thought
Different Steve - Lead - Sep/04

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/02

Hidden - 2002

rocktigger - Lead O/S - 2001 with Clare

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Aug/99

Simon Pearce - 1999

Both led
Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/94 with Rachel Nicolson

BRUCESTRAC - 1988 with Chris Cracknell,Various

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mikej, humptydumpty, Hidden, Nigel Bond, Steve Waters, Mynydd, James_D, Hidden

Total votes cast 103
hard HVS0 of 36
HVS5 of 36
easy HVS23 of 36
hard VS6 of 36
VS2 of 36
easy VS0 of 36
hard HS0 of 36
HS0 of 36
easy HS0 of 36
hard 5a0 of 35
5a3 of 35
easy 5a21 of 35
hard 4c10 of 35
4c1 of 35
easy 4c0 of 35
hard 4b0 of 35
4b0 of 35
easy 4b0 of 35
3 Stars7 of 32
2 Stars18 of 32
1 Star5 of 32
0 Stars1 of 32
Bag of .....1 of 32
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Style of ascent

Soloed3 of 99 (3.0%)
Lead47 of 99 (47.5%)
Followed34 of 99 (34.3%)
Toproped9 of 99 (9.1%)
Unknown6 of 99 (6.1%)

'Climbed'36 of 99 (36.4%)
clean O/S30 of 99 (30.3%)
clean β2 of 99 (2.0%)
clean rpt3 of 99 (3.0%)
dogged20 of 99 (20.2%)
dnf8 of 99 (8.1%)