Rockfax Description
Climb the front of the pillar then move right for an exposed and powerful finish via a crack that splits the nose. © Rockfax

Les Gillott early 1960s 1962

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage 100 VD - VS.

Robin Nichols 01/Nov 2nd O/S
with Roger
Roget 01/Nov Lead O/S
with robin
John Higgs 08/Aug Solo O/S
keitht 11/Jul Lead

Holly tree a bit scratchy. Fabulous finish.

with Dewi Turton
dewiturton 11/Jul 2nd
with keitht
Luke90 22/May Lead O/S
will_benfold 04/May Lead dnf

Bit shaken up from previous route and didn't fancy committing.

with Keith
will_benfold 04/May 2nd rpt
with Keith
dannyboy83 11/Apr Solo O/S
Hidden 09/Apr 2nd dnf
leopolian 09/Apr Lead dnf
Hidden 18/Oct/14 Lead dnf
benlatham07 12/Oct/14 Lead β
Hidden 25/Jun/14 TR
WillDoyle 31/May/14 2nd
dr_botnik 28/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Fuck off VS. HVS fo sho.

Nick1812P 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Jamie
JamieSparkes 29/Mar/14 2nd rpt
with Nick
kermit_uk 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Phil Parkin
Lotoni ?/Nov/13 Lead dnf

fall with cam breaking one of the layers of rock in the upper part. rock hit me on forehead, lost a front tooth

with kuz
mark4344 28/Sep/13 2nd

tough for grade. pumpy and rounded holds at top.

with derek, Matt Payne
Merlin 10/Aug/13 Lead dog

This route is nails! Lead the crux/top after Phil backed off, went off-route to the right, but still obscenely strong finish. Not VS by any stretch of the imagination!

with Polly Withers, Phil Chalkley
MaccMark 13/Jul/13 2nd
Clay C 13/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Emma
JimboWizbo 13/Jul/13 2nd

Nice, unlikely VS

with Beth
Hidden 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Lumbering Oaf 01/Jun/13 2nd dog


Batt 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Monkey practice

Hidden 20/Apr/13 -
alastairbegley 20/Apr/13 Lead dog
with David West
the power 13/Jan/13 Lead dog

hard work cold hands hanging upside down fun

Hidden 13/Jan/13 2nd
Jackwd 04/Oct/12 Lead dog

Fell off just before the top. Hard for VS!

valentinesbabe 04/Oct/12 2nd dog

Had to rest on top move, strenuous rather than difficult

Tithe Technique 04/Oct/12 TR dog
charley 04/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Bit of a stiff warm-up route on a cold afternoon after not a climbing for awhile. Actually found it okay and easier then everyone else but I was 4th up so didn't have to place or remove gear.. Think I would of felt different on lead..

with JackD, Ange, Kev
Hidden 01/Sep/12 2nd dog
andy jennings 01/Sep/12 2nd β
with Mike
greglad 25/Jul/12 Lead
Boy 12/Jul/12 Solo
Hidden 26/May/12 2nd O/S
Sebastien Gastaud 20/May/12 Lead O/S
with Fabienne Gassman, Kirsty McLoud, Martin Oldham
stev1e.wilso 15/Apr/12 2nd
with Simon
simon1985 15/Apr/12 Lead
Graeme Hammond 18/Mar/12 2nd rpt

why is this VS on here, never in a million years HVS for sure

with Jim
Hidden 17/Mar/12 Lead dog
Jonny M 17/Mar/12 TR O/S
danny269 ??/2012 2nd

excellent route - definitely an HVS 5a & probably deserves a second star (despite the midges today!)

with Keir
Hidden ??/2012 -
owain86 12/Nov/11 Lead β

This felt just as hard and possibly harder than right unconquerable. knee bar helps to rest and place gear before the top out.

with Chris
steve2006 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S

best climb of the day! Juggy with lots of protection. It feels scary but that's because your pumped out and getting tided. had to use a knee bar to rest.. is this really a VS/4c? think not..

with barry
fatbuoybazza 15/Oct/11 2nd rpt
with Stevsie
Si Croft 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Bernie, JD, Jos
Hidden 02/Aug/11 Lead dnf
gb83 02/Aug/11 Lead dnf

very sandy and crumbly where it matters. will took a good fall on this one going through the roof. I attempted the lead but backed off. not my cup of tea.

Neil Rodgers (PCC) 31/Jul/11 TR dog

Top roped after failing to lead. Still found this very physically demanding, made the top with a few tight ropes to top out. Well under graded. HVS5A ?

with Marilyn, Mick Sissons
Hidden 31/Jul/11 TR
paulerussell 24/Jul/11 TR dog
matiamallia 24/Jul/11 TR β
Hidden 09/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead dog
Hidden 26/Jun/11 2nd dnf
JamieSparkes 10/May/11 Lead O/S
with DICS chris
Graeme Hammond 29/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Felt a bit pressing on the overhang and more like 5b, although less than perfect conditions probably didn't help.

with Steve, Richard Williams
Danny Crump 27/Mar/11 2nd
Rachel Slater 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S
tony wood 27/Mar/11 Lead dnf
with Sarah P, Danny Crump
fatbuoybazza 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Shouldo had HVS fur this one..

Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead
thekendo 09/Jan/11 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 08/Jan/11 Lead
rockaddict ??/2011 TR O/S
rockaddict ??/2011 2nd
davebonner ??/2011 -
deacondeacon ??/2011 Lead O/S
HIGHTOWER 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Hannah
Tightsgirl 16/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 28/Aug/10 TR dog
hobblingfool 26/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Did not trust the rock quality at the top, obvious recent damage in a few places. Take Care.

Hexman 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Felt good getting the knee bar in but definitely more like HVS 5a!

with James
ben_250 28/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Tom
tomthecoolperson 28/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead dnf
hamishclimb 22/Apr/10 TR
buxtoncoffeelover ??/2010 2nd
pawelx 05/Oct/09 Lead dog

Do you have to stay on the overhang and place gear hanging on your arms? Or can you move to the big block on the right, comfortably place a lot of gear before launching into the roof? I still fell on it when climbing the roof. I followed the crack - either I missed something obvious, or it's just slopers and no jugs to pull on - probably hard for a VS?

Hidden 04/Oct/09 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Nicky Shaw, Steve Harby
Hidden 20/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 19/Sep/09 2nd dog
Monkey_Alan 19/Sep/09 Lead dog

Had to rest getting past the overhang.

Diggler 29/Aug/09 2nd

Fun hands off rest from a knee bar near the top

with Paul V
Hidden ?/Jul/09 2nd dog
schaff ?/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead
Hidden 22/Nov/08 Lead
bigbobbyking 19/Oct/08 Lead dnf

Got to the overhand and thought "gosh - steeper than it looked from down there" Another day...

Hidden 09/Oct/08 2nd
tobydunford 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Sarah Wysling
uphillnow ??/2008 2nd
barni 04/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with tom machine
stp 02/May/07 Solo O/S

Contrived start made worse by the expanding holly bush.

Stig 09/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Jonathan Teale
Stig 20/Jun/05 2nd dog
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Ropeboy 30/May/05 Solo
Different Steve ?/Sep/04 Lead

worth HVS and ** i thought

lowersharpnose 01/Jan/02 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 -
rocktigger ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Clare
Hidden 29/Aug/99 Lead dog
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
Chris Ellis 13/Aug/94 Lead

Both led

with Rachel Nicolson
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Gavinwm, DanChad, mikej, humptydumpty, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd, James_D, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 39
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set