|granite guru||E5 6b|
|12m. A Test-piece. Both Bold and Technical, with some stiff pulls. At the right hand end of the main face is a shallow cave. Start at an obvious hold at the left end of the cave and climb up at first utilizing sidepulls. Move right towards a good edge and up again to a poor one. Finish up the Black groove via laybacks. Belay on the traverse of Climbers Club Ordinary. Often gets mistaken as the original route called piglet wall which climbs to the good hand ledge then traverse R into climbers club ordinary.|
Chris Nicholson and Nick White 1985 - The Direct (and more Logical finish) was added my Ken Palmer in 1991.
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