90m. A high level girdle with impressive exposed positions in it's latter stages. It is certainly harder than VD as it tends to be damp and dirty in the Main Gully section (perhaps HS except in perfect conditions). It starts up Holly Tree Wall, crosses over the chockstone at the top of Mucky Gully and belays on the uppermost tree of Colonels Arete. From here the downclimb of the top of Dark Cleft is a serious proposition for seconds. From the back of Main Gully descend the path until you can strike out to the tree on Vineyard and thence up to the tree belay of Leviathan. Climb diagonally rightwards up the ramp which leads to the finishing groove of Central Groove and now reverse CC Ordinary (tricky) to join Route B and take a stance on the arete. Finish up Route B. Can be done in 4 to 8 pitches.


Cheese Monkey 09/Sep/13 Lead

Finally complete in 4 pitches. P1 to chimney chockstone, p2 on our variation line to p1 colonels arete, p3 to central groove corner, p4 finish. Great fun, final pitch especially good, mad exposure at the grade which I would put at VD

with Ian M
Ian Miller 09/Sep/13 2nd rpt

Finally completed it. Nervous down climb into mucky gully after a bit of gear below came out. Exposed final pitch (traverse) was quite enjoyable from a seconds point of view :D

Cheese Monkey 13/Nov/12 AltLd dnf

Round 2. Found a much nicer line than descending into main gully. From p1 belay descend mucky gully ~15m, then a move up and right to a good ledge and traverse around arete, belay. Then descend colonels arete to its p1 belay. Rejoin original route. Anyway, finished up final corner of central groove as we ran out of light

with Ian M
Ian Miller 13/Nov/12 AltLd dnf
Cheese Monkey 02/Nov/12 AltLd dnf

P1, ok. P2/3, Decided the descent into Main Gully was way too wet and green so descended to P2 belay on Colonels Arete to contemplate crossing Main Gully there. Then the rain got really bad so ab off. I will be back

with Ian M
Ian Miller 02/Nov/12 Lead dnf
victim of mathematics 07/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Suffered guidebook fail (how is the described second pitch 40ft and not 4ft and "descend a few feet" is understating it a little!) and ended up finishing up The High Traverse by accident instead.

with Dan
Hidden 06/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Phil79 06/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Soloed the 1st pitch, did the rest in 4 pitch's. Not one for a first VD, feels more like HS in places, esp. in its present condition. Need to work hard to protect the second descending into and across Main Gully, as Pete proved when he slipped and took a 15ft fall into the Gully.

with Pete
JonHarvey 10/Mar/09 AltLd rpt
with Jayne-o
Hidden 10/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/08 AltLd O/S
JonHarvey ?/Apr/06 AltLd O/S

Dont go into Main Gully :)

le_grimpeur 04/Aug/03 2nd
with Paul, Dad
DGY 26/Jul/03 Lead
with John & Paul
Steveb27 ??/2000 Lead
brew_guru ??/1995 -
colin milton 25/Jul/94 Solo
with eric milton
John Andrew Simpson ??/1994 Lead
with Tim Harnett
daviesdan ??/1989 Lead
uphillnow ??/1964 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Rockingit73, James A.S Read
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