UKC

Restricted Access

The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 21 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
20m. An excellent, strenuous crack climb, high in the grade. Climb on solid jams past an awkward section at the first break. Continue to where the crack closes and step left into a second wider crack. Awkward moves lead to a ledge. An easily pre-placed rope avoids the need to climb unprotected through the unpleasant hanging gardens above the ledge shown in the topo. Route shown on topo for Cummings and Goings (click right).

1968.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Bennyboy1233 30 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Really good route to practice your jams, very safe when you have a couple big cams and the garden at the top wasnt too bad (very dry)
βeta?
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βeta: Really good route to practice your jams, very safe when you have a couple big cams and the garden at the top wasnt too bad (very dry)
nickdonohue 26 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Very clean (apart from upper third in \'hanging gardens\') and dry. Definitely avoid if \'gardens\' at all damp or pre-place a rope.
βeta?
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βeta: Very clean (apart from upper third in 'hanging gardens') and dry. Definitely avoid if 'gardens' at all damp or pre-place a rope.

Logged Ascents

22 users have logged this

Guidebooks for The Dewerstone

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 4 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 7
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Immaculate Slab

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Lundy)

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