30m. Excellent. Strenuous and sustained, but well protected ~ for those with the strength
to place it. Care should be taken to avoid rope drag. The original joins The Dangler. The variation finish is more satisfying, for the competent; but pushes the route to the upper end of its grade. Start below a small roof.
1) 6a. Move round the corner, and up a small groove; hard moves gain a traverse
line. Go right, (Peg) and make a very hard move up, to gain holds above (climbers have been heard to mutter “Oh, for crux sake”, or similar, at this point).
Move right, to another overhang. A hard move gains the vee groove on the right.
Climb up the groove, past yet another roof, to gain a ramp. Finish up the slab.
Ledge and tree belay. Walk off right.


kingholmesy ??/2014 Lead dog

One sit on the gear. The dirtiest route I have ever climbed.

with RusseyB
feilx 23/May/11 Lead O/S
with Heather
CraigMac1 ??/2006 -
andy_pemberton ?/Sep/99 Lead dog

Took 1 fall, then sat on gear and worked out the crux, so not really led it! 00 quadcam useful.

Simon cook ?/Sep/97 AltLd

With Steve bell

Hidden 30/Jun/85 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ?/Jul/79 Lead
with Pete O'Sullivan
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
N360rp, Dale Turrell, Hidden
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 2
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set