Dragon Song** E3 6a
30m. Excellent. Strenuous and sustained, but well protected ~ for those with the strength
to place it. Care should be taken to avoid rope drag. The original joins The Dangler. The variation finish is more satisfying, for the competent; but pushes the route to the upper end of its grade. Start below a small roof.
1) 6a. Move round the corner, and up a small groove; hard moves gain a traverse
line. Go right, (Peg) and make a very hard move up, to gain holds above (climbers have been heard to mutter “Oh, for crux sake”, or similar, at this point).
Move right, to another overhang. A hard move gains the vee groove on the right.
Climb up the groove, past yet another roof, to gain a ramp. Finish up the slab.
Ledge and tree belay. Walk off right.
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This climb is in 7 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

One sit on the gear. The dirtiest route I have ever climbed.
kingholmesy - Lead dog - 2014 with RusseyB

feilx - Lead O/S - 23/May/11 with Heather

CraigMac1 - 2006

Took 1 fall, then sat on gear and worked out the crux, so not really led it! 00 quadcam useful.
andy_pemberton - Lead dog - Sep/99

With Steve bell
Simon cook - AltLd - Sep/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/85

Steve Bell - Lead - Jul/79 with Pete O'Sullivan

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Dale Turrell
Total votes cast 6
hard E40 of 2
E40 of 2
easy E40 of 2
hard E30 of 2
E32 of 2
easy E30 of 2
hard E20 of 2
E20 of 2
easy E20 of 2
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6b0 of 2
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hard 6a2 of 2
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hard 5c0 of 2
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