30m. Good diagonal line across the wall. Peg snapped in a short fall, route is now pushing E4 as alternate protection is small and fiddly and the ground is close beneath on the crux. The original joins The Dangler. The variation finish is more satisfying, for the competent; but pushes the route to the upper end of its grade. Start below a small roof.
1) 6a. Move round the corner, and up a small groove; hard moves gain a traverse
line. Go right, (micro-cams far right) and make a very hard move up, to gain holds above.
Move right, to another overhang. A hard move gains the V groove on the right.
Climb up the groove, past yet another roof, to gain a ramp. Finish up the slab.
Ledge and tree belay. Walk off right.

1979


ClimberDateStyle
kingholmesy ??/2014 Lead dog

One sit on the gear. The dirtiest route I have ever climbed.

with RusseyB
feilx 23/May/11 Lead O/S
with Heather
CraigMac1 ??/2006 -
andy_pemberton ?/Sep/99 Lead dog

Took 1 fall, then sat on gear and worked out the crux, so not really led it! 00 quadcam useful.

Simon cook ?/Sep/97 AltLd

With Steve bell

Hidden ?/May/94 Lead G/U
Hidden 30/Jun/85 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ?/Jul/79 Lead
with Pete O'Sullivan
3 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 3
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set