Restricted Access
The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
30m.
Good diagonal line across the wall. Peg snapped in a short fall, route is now pushing E4 as alternate protection is small and fiddly and the ground is close beneath on the crux. The original joins The Dangler. The variation finish is more satisfying, for the competent; but pushes the route to the upper end of its grade. Start below a small roof.
1) 6a. Move round the corner, and up a small groove; hard moves gain a traverse
line. Go right, (micro-cams far right) and make a very hard move up, to gain holds above.
Move right, to another overhang. A hard move gains the V groove on the right.
Climb up the groove, past yet another roof, to gain a ramp. Finish up the slab.
Ledge and tree belay. Walk off right.
1) 6a. Move round the corner, and up a small groove; hard moves gain a traverse
line. Go right, (micro-cams far right) and make a very hard move up, to gain holds above.
Move right, to another overhang. A hard move gains the V groove on the right.
Climb up the groove, past yet another roof, to gain a ramp. Finish up the slab.
Ledge and tree belay. Walk off right.
1979.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dexter JW | 7 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is another old peg remaining a few meters above the crux - this should not to be trusted and plenty of other gear is available. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: There is another old peg remaining a few meters above the crux - this should not to be trusted and plenty of other gear is available. |
||||
| pete osullivan | 28 Feb, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Where the peg used to be just before the crux there is a bomber medium sized wire in the horizontal break. If you slide it along it is brilliant and is far safer than the peg ever was | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Where the peg used to be just before the crux there is a bomber medium sized wire in the horizontal break. If you slide it along it is brilliant and is far safer than the peg ever was |
||||
Logged Ascents
13 users have logged this
Guidebooks for The Dewerstone
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
The Exorcist (Devil's Limekiln)
Grade: E3 5b ***
(Lundy)