UKC

50m. A diagonal traverse of the buttress.
1) 5b. Start as for The Dangler. Climb The Dangler up to the vee groove, traverse across the wall, under a bulge. Go round the corner, to belay under the roof of Corner Chimney.

2) 5b. Move down, and gain Bolshevik by a wide step. Move under the roof (Pegs), and down-climb the slab, until it’s possible to step into Armada. Climb Armada to the tree belay. (Seconds may wish to rig a back rope, through the pegs, for the slab.) 3) 4c. Climb a little way up the chimney, until it’s possible to traverse left; move
onto the block of Randy. Finish as for Randy, 4b or Safe Sex, 5a, .

1976 1979.

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South Devon & Dartmoor First Ascents in 1976

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Gideon

Grade: E1 5b ***
(The Dewerstone)

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