An imposing and memorable line up the great cleft. It provides some rather bold climbing by current standards, but is a feasible lead if the appropriate speleological techniques are applied. The key peg at half height has been replaced (2015) and there is gear at the apex of the cleft to protect the swing out right. The best finish is up the inset slab above, but it is also possible to step back left and finish above Perses.
Peter Biven Oct/1964