|15m. A sport climb which follows a set of staples on and to the left of the old trad. route of the same name. Start below the left hand side of a jutting-out block. Climb directly up the wall using staples out left. Move gingerly up into the cleft on the left hand side of the block and then step left on steep rock and awkwardly gain a ledge above. Continue bearing slightly leftwards and then straight up to reach a triangular bay at the top. A pair of spaced staples can be used as a lower-off using two longer extenders, but they are near-impossible to safely thread and lower off directly. Topping out and belaying on a tree is a better option. |
FA details below are for the original trad. route, which went around the RHS of the jutting-out block.
F. Cannings, D. Walls 26/Dec/1965
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