Castles Made of Sand*** 6c
[Castles Made Of Sand, 2 kb]5 pitches. 6c(6b aid), 5+, 6b, -, 5+ One of the longest sport routes in the UK. Some think it classic, others think it too vegetated and scrappy for that status. P1 is the crux: the move with a painful pocket can be bypassed using an aid bolt. An exposed easier 5+ P2 then leads to the 6b corner crack of P3: this is awkward and much harder than it looks. A short grassy walk (P4 -) brings you to a gentle buttress and the final 5+ pitch: this is by far the best pitch on the route. Climb past the three ring bolts then another bolt: belay using a large square block. Abseil descent of the route is not allowed. Top out. The Martin Crocker guidebook recommends that you 'Scramble down Shoot Gully': this is potentially lethal as it is so loose. If you go this way, you will probably end up abseiling off trees which have notices pinned on them saying that some of the trees are loose. The alternatives are to walk and then scramble easily to the Space Tourist ab station (not easy to find) or to walk further towards Cheddar and descend Sloworm Gully (the best way down). Access: Some find the guide confusing. Approach from the left (Long Wall) looking towards the crag. Approaching from sunset buttress involves climbing (damaging) a goat fence and there's a good chance of slipping to your death!
D.P Jenkin, G.A Jenkin Mar/2006

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Cheddar Intermediate.

Photo: Castles Made Of Sand © ukclimbing.com
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 53 logbooks, and on 60 wishlists.

My first multi pitch.
BoHeMlo - 2nd - 15/Mar/14

mike kann - 2013

phardy - Lead rpt - 10/Mar/12

Lead 1 and 3. Tried clean 6c - seemed hard on cold arms on cold day. Resorted to 6b 1pt of aid version - still interesting. Freindly goat on 3 belay after fine jam crack. Helen thought top pitch worth 2*. Topped out as sun set. Over shot Shoot Gully. Descended dark woods by headtorch. Very steep slippery earth with disntegrating loose trees terminated by 10m hidden drop. Abbed down off tree to above Reservoir Walls, finally relocated Shoot Gully (knee deep in compost), phew!
philhilo - AltLd - 03/Mar/12 with Helen E

Thursday night entertainment head torch ascent. Shute gully decent was dirty and chocker with loose earth.
eddy-on-the-rocks - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/12 with Matt Read

"No Excuse Thursday" when the sun sets it's time to start climbing. Led P2 and P4, great climb in the dark P4 was fantastic. P3 was an effort well done to Ed for sticking with it and leading it. Shoot Gully was an EPIC, recommend using an alternative route down. All round great adventure.
matt_read - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/12 with Edd Southwood

P1: Key hold too painful to use, so did the one point of aid variant for 6b. P2: Okay start then vegetated and scrappy. P3: Thrutchy jam crack, not great. P4: vegetated muddy walk. P5: Best of the lot. Really only a one star route.
ericinbristol - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/11 with Ant Mace

sam.sam.sam.ferguson - AltLd O/S - 17/Oct/11 with Marti Hallett

Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 17/Oct/11 with Sam Ferguson

Aid on the first pitch. Would maybe be able to redpoint it... Definitely worth going back!
Nick Russell - AltLd - 15/Oct/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/11

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Oct/11

fun but a bit discontinuous between pitches.
danp - AltLd - 07/Oct/11

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Oct/11

Had to aid the 6c pitch.We climbed it in 4 pitches.I had the 2 easier pitches which were great.Fantastic route.The nettles could do with abit of gardening.
Popkids - AltLd - 03/Oct/11 with Kafoozalem

Did not start this route. Access was awful! Hour long scramble to get to the start of the route up a steep slope then along another steep slope through stinging nettles and brambles, about 50m high! A number of us developed urticaria which lasted 3 days from the number of nettle stings!After watching Dave struggle on the first pitch with aid, it was decided that getting 6 of us up it before dark was not going to happen.So we had to scramble back the way we'd came!!
jennym32 - AltLd dnf - 01/Oct/11 with Mark Bown

Aided first pitch of course. Wonderful final pitch. Easy decent down chute gully.
ruaidh - AltLd - 09/Apr/11 with Michael

lead p1 and p3. p1 felt easier than expected. p3 was the money pitch for me. great route throughout!
msoldn - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Rory

Graham Atkins - AltLd - 27/Mar/11 with will boxen

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/11

Phil Belcher - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/11 with Stu

Good climb on a sunny day
stephaneSi - AltLd dog - 10/Oct/10 with Dugald Wilson

Hidden - AltLd dog - 10/Oct/10

Couldn't finish the route because no bolts on the second pitch
ian d f - Lead dnf - 30/Jun/10 with Mark

clean leads, sloppy seconds. good fun!!!
gknyus - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Tom 'Segwin' Skelhorn

lead 6c and 6b pitch
tskelhon - AltLd rpt - 18/Apr/10 with Bez

Lead first (with aid, 6B) and final pitch. First pitch is really hard without aid... and 3rd pitch was pretty hard too!
Greg Pittam - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Raff

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/10

the roof of the first pitch was unsurprisingly the stopper. having spent some time figuring it out it'll go free next time. Awesome crack pitch - though a touch crumbly in places.
andy dunn - AltLd dog - 13/Mar/10 with J

gripped01 - Oct/09 with Rimon Than, Dave Tait

Done as aid on P1 but all of the bolts on pitch 2 were removed?
SamStokes - 2nd dog - 29/Mar/09 with Ben Matthews

1st pitch only, climbed in damp / wet conditions with 1 point of aid. The 2nd pitch has had hangers removed in readiness for summer season ban.
Cowflinger - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/09 with Pete Lewis

I aided the roof on the first pitch then lead the second pitch free. Andy lead the crack and the top pitch. Need to go back and climb the crack pitch clean.
Gareth - AltLd - 11/Oct/08 with Andrew

Gareth led 1st & 3rd pitches clean - using the aid sling on the roof as described for p1 making it 6b. I led pitches 3 & 4. Spat off crack on p3 several times. Failed to redpoint and ended up dogging up it. P4 excellent (clean lead) - exposure awesome. Just need to go back and free it now.
andybenham - AltLd dog - 11/Oct/08 with Gareth Hayfield

Looked loke a long peice of choss from the bottom...boy I was wrong, amazing! Aided the 6C crux :(
sebrider - AltLd O/S - Oct/08 with Peter Trevis-Bell

Fell off 6c pitch, very hard move to start the day. Used 6b aid on second. Home free after that, although the 6b crack is arkward.
Jon_Warner - AltLd O/S - 27/Jan/08 with Jonny

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Nov/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Nov/07

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 11/Sep/07

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/07 with Kate

Aided roofs on P1 and crack on P3. Rest clean. Last pitch phenomenal - great exposure!
kevinknights - 2nd dog - 09/Jun/07 with John Hat

Used aid on first pitch(wet),rested on 3rd pitch(wet).Super route, will do again as soon as access and weather allows.
morphy richards - AltLd dog - Jun/07 with Richard Starling

tom.e - AltLd dog - 26/Mar/07 with Charlie Everett

1 point of aid on the first pitch so 6b not 6c. A bolted route that still has the same Cheddar "adventure" feel to it.
maresia - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/07 with Mike Kann

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Probably deserves 3 stars for the fun factor - the 5+ pitches are really good. Crack pitch is hard when wet. Fell off trying to free the first pitch so used the aid point and the rest (lead both 6b bits) was clean.
Paz - AltLd O/S - 29/Oct/06 with TK

Hidden - Lead - 08/Oct/06

Bolt for aid on first pitch
Paul Robertson - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/06 with Guy Percival

guy xavier percival - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/06 with paul

just one more - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/06 with tim b

Top pitch only.
peteetheridge - 2nd O/S - Mar/06 with Nigel Elliott

Paz - AltLd - 2006 with TK

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Voting
Total votes cast 32
hard 6c+0 of 14
6c+0 of 14
easy 6c+2 of 14
hard 6c10 of 14
6c2 of 14
easy 6c0 of 14
hard 6b+0 of 14
6b+0 of 14
easy 6b+0 of 14
3 Stars8 of 18
2 Stars3 of 18
1 Star7 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
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Style of ascent

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dnf