|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
First HVS, great climb! Must admit it's harder than it looks but probably bang on the grade.
|Richard Kendrick||15/Sep||Lead O/S||
Steeper than it looks!
Strenuous but good :). Don't waste time trying to get gear out which you forgot was in-situ...
A tough start to the day, was out of breath at the top
After a trip to Roscoyln and lots of rain in the morning we came to Holyhead mountain as we thought it would be drier. After blue sky for 2 hours it looked dry. Thought I would warm up on this with in intension of getting on bran flake. I had To work hard the rock was a little soapy and the jams felt slippy. So in these conditions it felt harder than some pumpy E2's I have done. But A wicked route a lot steeper than it looks 3 stars all the way. Decided not to do anything else after this due to conditions.
|Duncan Beard||31/Aug||TR dog||
I don't usually TR but I needed some fun after some rather unchallenging VDiffs. For an unfit HS/VS leader this was tough, pleased to get up it at all, took max effort! Will return to lead one day.
|Gareth T||30/Aug||Lead rpt||
Managed a clean second despite removing Gareth's 16 runners!
|Chris Sieradzki||29/Aug||Lead dog||
A couple of HVS 5bee moves in my opinion! Or at the very least a sustained series of 5a moves and 5b for sub 6ft climbers. Climbers following us up took a big fall.
|Keith Swainson||28/Aug||Lead O/S||
|Martin Brierley||28/Aug||Lead O/S||
It helps if you can jam.
Nowhere near as bad at it's made out to be. Big holds and great jams all the way up!
Finally got on it on what was quite a busy day, there was a cue! Excellent route. glad the 2 lads before said to belay at the top of the crack, made communication on a windy day a lot easier.
|Federico Sher||06/Aug||2nd O/S|
Great route, would have enjoyed it more if I was fitter.
Great. Was pumped most of the way up!
Pumpy. Must learn to move and place gear quicker on this terrain.
|jacob shieldhouse hadley||28/Jul||Lead O/S|
Fell after the crux just above the block. Had to come down super pumped. Richard sent it. I then second. Bloody tough and awkward climb. A real Test piece at the grade.
|nige pacer||25/Jul||2nd O/S||
|Rob Wardle||18/Jul||2nd dog||
V strenuous and sustained, but safe and easier than it first appears.
Leo Woods, Ellie Woods
Misty, pumpy (not a warmup)
With rests on rope to take some tricky bits of gear out. Nice route!!
|Different Steve||13/Jun||2nd O/S|
Pumpy little number!
Sam Milner, Guy Blackwood
Seconded Andy. Stunning line with good gear and moves. Steep and pumpy though - took two falls/rests due to end of session arms.
Best route of the weekend.
|Mike W||09/May||Lead O/S|
Fantastically enjoyable.... Until the crux, then brute force and little else will see you over the bulge onto the easy slab.
|ian d f||07/Feb||2nd rpt|
|K Dawg||15/Nov/14||2nd dog||
This resists finessing and responds only to thuggery. Well protected with large cams, medium cams, plus large and medium nuts. It felt more strenuous than pitch 1 of Quartz Icicle (E2 5b).
Jeannie Sherwood, Kelly Duffy, Kin Choi
Nice, sustained. Will come back and lead it soon.
|nick ferro||20/Sep/14||Lead O/S||
|K Dawg||06/Sep/14||Lead O/S||
fi massey, Paul Horabin
|Tim W||23/Aug/14||Lead O/S||
Jess Patel, Mike Thomas
|Dan Hostford||23/Aug/14||Lead O/S|
|Emma Reynolds||21/Aug/14||2nd O/S|
Got to the crux and hung around for too long wasting energy, gave up as didn't want to commit to it.
Hamish lead to crux with pre placed gear, then finished it off. He did excellent but isn't going to log as it would be his first HVS.
Wow, great lead (from Gary), great route, pleased I did this cleanly. Much steeper and harder than it looks.
With several rests. Steeper than it looks (and I'm weaker than I think) but well worth it.
|mr mills||28/Jun/14||Lead rpt||
Bloody magnificent, felt much harder than Bond Street. Crux for me wasn't climbing the bulge but exiting it.
Two rests on rope. One below one above crux
|Tom Livingstone||05/Jun/14||Lead O/S||
|Dan Vaj||04/Jun/14||2nd rpt|
Kyle Dumka, Tom Murrell
Sustained and enjoyable climbing, loads of gear....Quite a relief to get on to the top slab!
|Tony Holdsworth||25/May/14||Lead O/S||
Louise Atkin, Chris Burn
spent a while at the crux, but got there without rests on the rope
|the power||06/May/14||2nd O/S|
With one rest on gear
|john lynch||04/May/14||Lead O/S||
Retrieved Fran's gear. Layback through the crux. Great climbing.
|jordan taylor||02/May/14||Lead O/S|
Harry Mcghie, James Williams
awesome wanted to do for a while. steep and pumpy but don't worry the gear is bomber
|K Farrell||27/Apr/14||2nd dnf||
Enjoyable, nice jams, harder than it looks!
Steeper than it looks, good lead from Helen. Top end 5a.
|John Brayshaw||21/Apr/14||Lead O/S|
|Andrew Sloan||29/Mar/14||Lead rpt||
Josh, Adam Macintosh
Very very windy. Careful lead from g, I bailed en route due to frozen fingers.
|David Kay||13/Oct/13||Lead O/S|
|Dave Mountford||04/Oct/13||2nd dog||
need to go back & do this the right way!
desperate when hot and sweaty
Second ever HVS. Burly as hell, but good gear.
Much harder than it looked from the bottom! Steep, sustained, but very satisfying.
Bit of a thug-fest! Very sustained, but very enjoyable!
Pretty sustained and pumpy. Lots of jamming - I now have a broken watch...
|Matt Harle||01/Aug/13||Lead O/S|
Joe lead, good knee bar to be had
A pigeon landed on Dan 2/3 of the way up, turned out the nest was on the ledge. Almost made it over the crux, just didn't have the power in my arms.
|Samuel Wainwright||25/Jun/13||Lead O/S||
|Dan Vaj||05/Jun/13||Lead O/S|
Pumpy as hell. Plenty of jams on the way up, and a chunky arm bar for a rest before the crux. Had a brilliant time!
Brilliant route. Sustained but with positive holds and jams right the way up.
|Duncan Campbell||24/May/13||Lead rpt|
|Alan James - UKC and UKH||24/May/13||2nd|
|Jonny Nick||05/May/13||Lead O/S|
|Sam Simpson||05/May/13||Lead O/S|
Great sustained route. Really glad to have finally lead this.
Long route! Got rope drag when belaying. I found the crux to be just below the bulge.
|Alex the Alex||?/Apr/13||Lead dog||
Meaty. Tried jamming to no avail.
|tim newton||13/Mar/13||2nd O/S||
ken, stuart lade
Alex lead the well protected crack, I seconded the extremely pumpy route!
Rest before crux.. pumpy climbing!
Not very technical but pretty meaty. Quite hard for the grade but well protected. Really good line.
|james chesmer||?/Sep/12||Lead O/S||
Long fight with silly fear. Got it clean after taking ages though.
Natalya, The short fuse, Aly
|Gareth T||25/Aug/12||Lead O/S||
|Rachel Somerville||14/Aug/12||Lead O/S|
First climb after a long rest from injury and hand is still ruined... Bad times!
|mr mills||07/Jul/12||Lead rpt||
|Rachel Slater||05/Jul/12||Lead O/S||
Really fun route
Hard, bit greasy
a bit too intimidating as a warm up :-S
Used some gear for a rest before the crux, one day I will do this route
|Alex Thompson||09/Jun/12||Lead O/S||
Quite tiring at the end of the day. Vix struggled through, but had a pull on the gear.
Very nice, pretty pumpy!
Ben, Simon Edwards
|Neil Watson||06/May/12||2nd dog||
My second severe ..... and desperate 8-}
Just to finish me off/get the gear out of snakebite. Hard HVS and more like 5b I reckon. Physically tougher than many E1s with an unpositive feel to it.
Belayed 2nd from where it eases off, glad I did as he didn't manage to finish it. abbed off some tat on the lip. Excellent route nonetheless, sustained but well protected.
Bailed beforee the crux, freezing cold day!
Nice route, done it before. Cold and windy
|Richy boy||03/Apr/12||Lead dog||
Bottled the crux. Seconded with ease.
|Bill Lawrence||31/Mar/12||2nd O/S|
|James Oakes||31/Mar/12||Lead O/S|
on chris's gear, worth pushing through its not that bad!
Brilliant, bit of a battle with the pump and damp, but plenty of rests for my desperate arms haha
|Ollie B||30/Oct/11||Lead O/S|
|Ken Taylor||01/Oct/11||Lead O/S||
|Sebastien Gastaud||24/Sep/11||Lead O/S|
|James Oswald||17/Sep/11||2nd O/S||
Tough but nice.
|Tim M||?/Sep/11||2nd O/S|
laced it, marathon attempt. Managed Crux then lost the plot
|Matt Cooke||29/Aug/11||2nd β|
|Andy Clarke||28/Aug/11||Lead rpt||
Great climbing with a good arm jam rest before the crux.
Sustained and physical. Got a knee bar in near the crux which really helped. Pleased to get this clean on a day when escaped to Holyhead from rain in the Pass.
Mike Todd, Ian W
|Andy Hardy||27/Aug/11||Lead O/S|
|Brian Rodgers||27/Aug/11||Lead O/S||
|Andrew Lodge||27/Aug/11||Lead O/S||
Superb climb, very pumpy!!
|Wyn Bach||05/Aug/11||2nd dog||
Came off at the top of layback move (bad technique not lack of stamina) after all the good work that came before!
|Adam Lincoln||02/Aug/11||2nd rpt||
Meg, Mick Lovatt
|dan ely||29/Jul/11||Lead rpt||
|dan ely||19/Jul/11||Solo rpt|
|Huw Mithan||09/Jul/11||2nd dog|
|Danny Crump||09/Jul/11||2nd O/S||
|Elliot Carrington||?/Jul/11||Lead O/S||
Adrian Jeakins, Tristan Pollitt
|Tom Hecht||22/Jun/11||2nd O/S||
Pumped...one rest on cam
|Sam Warby||18/Jun/11||2nd O/S|
Fumbled with gear a bit but still a cool route. Harder than it looks but not as pumpy as i was expecting.
well nice. from what ive heard was expecting a greasy pumpfest. got some nice well protected climbing but definetley harder than it looks from the ground.
|Smelly Fox||29/May/11||Lead O/S||
|Jonas Paulsson||12/May/11||Lead O/S||
stu lade, aled davies
felt a lot steeper than it looked from the ground, gear good though
|Tony Holdsworth||07/May/11||2nd O/S||
|Owain Llewelyn||27/Apr/11||Lead rpt|
First lead fall. Went right at the bulge onto E3 6a instead of on the left hand side.
|dale 42||13/Mar/11||2nd dog|
|Mike Goldthorp||13/Mar/11||Lead rpt||
Nice steady laybacking all the way, and never far from a sinker jug or solid jams to place gear from.
didnt even find it at all pumpy today
|dan ely||05/Mar/11||2nd rpt||
First HVS of the year, fourth lead of 2011. Just managed it clean despite the pump. gorgeous climbing and 3D rests. Beautiful clear skies and warm sunlight.
|Skinny Kin||29/Jan/11||2nd O/S||
Felt quite strenous for HVS. Maybe first rock route after Christmas.
got pretty pumped taking gear out on the crux
|Tom Redmond||21/Jan/11||Lead O/S||
pumpy and quality!!
|Rob Evans||??/2011||Lead dog||
Second go, still one rest, it's a pumpy beast!!
|The Green Giant||21/Oct/10||Lead O/S||
sprinted up it, looked pumpy and sustained, so moved quick.
Dan with the van
Foocking hard!! Especially after doing Tension and Black and Tan. Dogged 2 times for rest as I couldn't feel my arms half way up to the bulge due to crap foot technique. Although managed to use arm jams and a head jam somewhere below the bulge. Glad to get to top. Will come back again sometime when I get my foot technique nailed.
Mark Freestone, Luke Watts
pretty knackered and had to rest on the gear. powerful route
|Mark D||12/Sep/10||Lead O/S||
Tommy B, Shaggy
awsome... first time iv used a hex !!!!
Happy that I got up it despite the rests and only fell off once - one to come back to once a bit more solid at HVS.
|NB Pixel||28/Aug/10||2nd dog||
Did most of climb in dark, v. windy. Found this sustained & difficult to strip- sat on sling on in-situ furry cam to remove crux gear.
bags easier than last time round.... but less hair too this time...
|wrapped in bacon||21/Aug/10||Lead O/S||
enjoyable jamming and laybacking with a bonus slab on't top
Steady up to bulge, one hard pull with good gear, then nice and straight forward once you have composed yourself above the bulge. Poor rests generally, very steep, impressive lead mark.
|ian caton||14/Aug/10||2nd β|
Blimin' hard when your leader decides to lace it! Just managed to find enough rests get up it in one. Don't think I've ever climbed anything as steep on trad before - great route :-)
|Abi Chard||14/Aug/10||Lead O/S|
|Jamie Degel||?/Aug/10||2nd rpt||
Lead Martin Fricke (DAV Hamburg)
Martin Fricke (DAV Hamburg)
Misty, moist and hard!
Very misty - top crack was wet...
Fecking hard!! Steep and sustained. Dogged about four times and one point of aid. Was a hard slog to the top but worth it.
Brilliant route. Sustained but well protected crack climbing. The upper slab, although cracked, makes for a brilliant runout.
not a bad climb but would be better on the lead i think..ill have to go back and lead sometime.
Very pelased to meet you at last King Bee :-)
Rhodri Morgan, Simon Moore
Serinde, Simon Moore
|Glyn Davidson||15/May/10||Lead rpt|
|michael burrows||15/May/10||2nd rpt|
|dan ely||11/May/10||Lead O/S|
|Jim Slater||08/May/10||2nd rpt|
|chris sm||08/May/10||2nd O/S|
|Sgt. Vest||06/May/10||Lead O/S|
had the rest
On Herve's gear as a warm up.
|Alex Mason||17/Jan/10||Lead O/S||
On herves gear so essentially a solo ;)
Mikey G, Herve
|LITTLE SAM||08/Nov/09||Lead O/S||
Punpy climb, clipped the in situ cam, then climbed back to a ver poor ledge for a rest as i was using incredibl shit technidue to get overbulge, though through moves and was up and over. very pumpy route, plus on the friday night id done a ten hour night climb in a storm so was kinda tired already but couldnt resist a lead.
|ian d f||31/Oct/09||Lead O/S||
Lovely route, good pump but bomber easy to place gear at crux
|Jim Slater||11/Oct/09||Lead O/S||
Steep! Strenous climbing was very glad to get it clean.
Good gear all the way , full on climb!
Never been so pumped in my life. Forgot to check good footholds before coming over the crux and had to rest. When i found the foodhold i managed. Very welcome stuck gear just below the crux which makes it possible to clip high even with short (and pumped) arms.
Only got about half way up!
Intimidating route, defiantly top end HVS. Large cams are useful.
v.v.pumped! Scrabbled up it, need to re-do in better style
gear in, easy to place, doesn't affect the rather burly climbing
|Rob Pitt||24/Aug/09||Lead rpt||
With James & David
GUY VG+ Hairy Tom
|Ram MkiV||24/Aug/09||Solo O/S||
Don't forget the obligitory cry of "come on arms, do your stuff". Great climb.
|Rob Pitt||13/Aug/09||2nd rpt|
1st time ive led this - superb clean climbing, quite physical and not easy at HVS
Long and strenuous. Took fall from crux.
Got there late in the evening had time for one rute before it started raining! Nice route though :)
|Dave Searle||26/Jul/09||2nd rpt||
Struggle to remove gear below crux
steep but big holds and great gear make a good route. tiring :-) started just after drizzle which can be slippery at bottom. lovely evening sun later
|London Luke||?/Jul/09||Lead O/S|
An excellent line- not too pumpy and some good rests in between harder sections. Solid comfortable jams with footholds all the way up. Didn't realise there was the slab at the top- so only took enough qds for the lower section, which takes really bomber gear.
Byron Buck and Guy Wilson
Byron Buck, Alex Twist
Had to hang on rope removing stuck gear.
Really pumpy, hard work getting up. Superb line though.
Andy C, Charlie
|Rich Kirby||03/May/09||Lead O/S|
Looks alot easier from the ground. Pumpy
Tricky but awesome!
the lay back did my bad back no good
|Si dH||10/Apr/09||2nd O/S||
|Glyn Davidson||29/Mar/09||2nd O/S||
Steeper than it looks. Good rest before the crux. Not sure that it deserves three stars though.
moves aren't too hard, just get very pumped!
|Rob Evans||??/2009||Lead dog|
Brilliant climb, defo a classic
Managed despite losing a contact lens on the way up! Nice climbing, very sustained though!
|Lawrie Brand||18/Oct/08||Lead O/S||
Need to get better at jamming..
|michael burrows||11/Oct/08||Lead dog|
Classic HVS. Not much respite on the arms till after the crux bulge... had to resort to the use of one knee on the bulge!
Julie and Chris
dogged hard on this one-much harder than it looks!!. arms were fried. will go back when fresher.
|Ben Harper||02/Aug/08||Lead O/S||
Again a little moist...
|Ewan Russell||25/May/08||Lead O/S||
Fraser lead to crux then backed off I finished off
|Tommy G||05/May/08||Lead O/S||
A little pumpy but great route!
|Tommy G||04/May/08||Lead O/S||
Dad and sarah
|Phill Mitch||??/2008||Lead O/S||
|peter myers||??/2008||Lead O/S||
Good stuff, but steeper than it looks from below.
|John Southworth||08/Jul/07||Lead O/S||
A damn sight harder than it looks!
|The Bad Cough||05/May/07||Lead O/S|
|Morgan Woods||06/Apr/07||Lead O/S||
a few steep moves but it's all there....quite a long pitch.
was pumping had to rest more like a 5b
|IOAN D||31/May/06||Lead O/S||
|Dan 85||29/Apr/06||2nd O/S||
got super pumped placing gear, had to lower off and ab for gear arse.
paul callander, wilko, sven hassle, will woodhead, jeremy leicester, dan, paul kenny, hans allnut, simon ball, farrow
|steve taylor||??/2003||Lead O/S||
First clean single pitch HVS lead. Lacerated by shoulder resting under the overhang. Somewhat wobbly on topping out!
|Mark Riley||??/2001||Lead O/S||
|ian caton||?/Oct/00||Lead O/S||
|Alastair Hudson||01/Jan/00||Lead O/S||
|Chris Reid||02/Jun/99||Lead O/S|
|craig h||12/Jul/98||2nd O/S||
|auld al||??/1995||Lead O/S|
|Stoney Boy||21/Apr/93||2nd O/S||
Bob Marks, Neil McCallum
|Tony Little||08/Nov/92||Lead O/S|
|Nick Rundall||??/1990||Lead O/S|