Gogarth and Anglesey > Holyhead Mountain >
 
Katana** E4 6a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Trouser Snake
 
Penny >>
[Mickey on Katana, 3 kb]37m. Not in the Gogarth North guide... old guide book says... "Sharp and to the point! The painfully obvious lower diagonal crack, right of King Bee Crack. Start just left of the crack, climb the wall to the overlap, and pull up to the crack, crux. Follow the crack, steep and sustained, into King Bee Crack, and finish up this. Shouts of 'Bonzai' obligatory!" Climbers Clib guide, 2002 reprint.

Ticklists: Gogarth Extreme Gems.

Photo: Mickey on Katana © nutallovertheface
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 61 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

Penny
JRae - Lead O/S - 09/Dec/12 with M Watson

found this really had when i lead it, didn't even get pumped this time
mwatson - 2nd rpt - 09/Dec/12

mshorter - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/12 with dunc

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

switch - Lead rpt - 05/May/12 with Leanne

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/11

999thAndy - 2nd - 27/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/11

Bit tougher when wet - quartz was very greasy.
ksjs - 2nd rpt - 11/May/11 with Joey

Hidden - Lead - 01/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/11

Toby Dunn - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Lead dog - 12/Sep/10

luke1986 - Lead - Jul/10

ian caton - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with roger, Abi

ellis - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Tom Bridgeland

Luke Brooks - Lead - 12/May/10 with John Orr

Climbed back from 1/3rd height. Will try it again when I'm less knackered.
Adam Booth - Lead dnf - 08/May/10

pumpy but no stopper moves
Rowansb - Lead O/S - 02/May/10 with sean

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Feb/10

Tried it half a year ago and came off, went quite smoothly this time. not over till its over
Mike Goldthorp - Lead RP - 17/Jan/10 with alex mason, Herve

Hidden - 2010

Dave Searle - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/09 with gav

Now called Penny?!
Rich Kirby - 2nd rpt - 17/Oct/09 with Kev

On steves gear, but hung around it for authenticity, great route with a great line. Soft but way too pumpy for an E3 leader?
Alex Mason - Lead β - 24/Aug/09 with Steve Ramsden

Belier - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/09 with Al

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/09

ksjs - 2nd rpt - 13/Aug/09 with rob

after a spanking on it earlier in the year I got back on it. It still hurt, but went better this time.
mux - Lead - 01/Aug/09 with Barry

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/09

barni - Lead dog - 14/Dec/08 with Sam

Hmmmm. Relieved to pull into 'King Bee Crack.' Techincal, sustained climbing between inventive poor rests proved to be the order of the day. Another 'on-off' moment experienced on this route when moving into the upper crux- scary! The start seemed protectable but on bounce test the 'baby bouncer' setup all ripped out with a hail of high velocity metal work. Pumpy!
mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/08 with Pete Harrison

feilx - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/08 with Phil Davis

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/08 with sam read

Hidden - TR O/S - Jul/08

centurion05 - TR O/S - 13/May/08

dctarrant2000 - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/07 with Polly Cleall-Harding

barni - Lead dog - 02/Sep/07 with Guy

good, relatively sustained climbing with only 1 trickier section. physical if you havent got stamina but good gear throughout. soft E4.
ksjs - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07 with goosebump

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/07

IOAN D - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/06 with rick

Ian McNeill - 2006

ali_robb - Lead O/S - Jul/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/01

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2001

sadams - Lead O/S - 30/May/00 with Tom Briggs

nige - 2nd - Mar/00 with mark hounslea

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Lead β - 30/May/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/99

Rich Kirby - Lead dog - 1997 with Hugh

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/94 with Nick Wharton

Mark Kemball - Lead - 13/Aug/92 with Alison Dorey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1986

GuyM - 1985

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Tom Livingstone, Huw Cropper, alexanderjwatts, simeclimb68, karmaclimbing, jamiev, Hidden, Hidden, Bennykr, lukea, Will Jung, MPL

Voting
Total votes cast 43
hard E50 of 16
E50 of 16
easy E50 of 16
hard E40 of 16
E410 of 16
easy E45 of 16
hard E31 of 16
E30 of 16
easy E30 of 16
hard 6b0 of 14
6b0 of 14
easy 6b0 of 14
hard 6a0 of 14
6a10 of 14
easy 6a2 of 14
hard 5c2 of 14
5c0 of 14
easy 5c0 of 14
3 Stars9 of 13
2 Stars4 of 13
1 Star0 of 13
0 Stars0 of 13
Bag of .....0 of 13
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead45 of 61 (73.8%)
Followed9 of 61 (14.8%)
Toproped2 of 61 (3.3%)
Unknown5 of 61 (8.2%)

'Climbed'13 of 61 (21.3%)
clean O/S34 of 61 (55.7%)
clean β2 of 61 (3.3%)
clean rpt6 of 61 (9.8%)
clean RP1 of 61 (1.6%)
dogged4 of 61 (6.6%)
dnf1 of 61 (1.6%)