Gogarth and Anglesey > Holyhead Mountain >
 
Sai Dancing** E3 6a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Penny (Katana)
 
Final Solution >>
37m. No description has been contributed for this climb.
M Gresham 18/Jun/1988

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 61 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Felt really hard. Got up to the square overhang without too many difficulties but the move into the crack spanked me. Another day!
spidermonkey09 - Lead dnf - 08/Mar/14 with Jack Knight

Pieterjan De Roo - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/13

Beautiful route. Lots of side pulls so pretty sustained. Pinged off because I couldn't hold my position to remove some gear around the crux
leeds_belle - 2nd dog - 25/Aug/13 with Will

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Eric Hildrew

tim newton - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/13 with ken, stuart lade

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Mar/13

JRae - 2nd - 09/Dec/12 with M Watson

freezing cold, loads of wind, inverting chalk bag, chalk in my eyes, wet crux, hot aches, rain and hot aches again - freaking awesome
mwatson - Lead O/S - 09/Dec/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Aug/12

mshorter - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/12 with dunc

Tough little cookie, worth it though for a new size 0 nut and runner!!
Owain Llewelyn - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/12 with Dad

A Very tight rope at times! Hard. Steep. Technical
zukator - 2nd - 14/Jul/12 with Owain

Left behind a size 0 wire & runner, d'oh!! In the unlikely event that next ascensionist reads this ...
drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with James Dear

switch - Lead rpt - 07/May/12 with Leanne

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/12

hard start, didn't rest in the middle and found the top hard. Great final groove - wild.
Julian Cooper - 27/Aug/11 with Ben Steel

gforce - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/11 with Emma

Top feels desperate... until you locate the hidden finger lock!
AlexD - 2nd dog - 07/Jul/11 with Jake, Dan

Cruxy, but a lovely flowing sequence.
jacobjlloyd - 2nd O/S - 07/Jul/11 with Alex Dennis, Dan Barbour

Liam FLeming - Lead - 16/Apr/11

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/11 with Rich

frost - 2nd dog - 03/Apr/11 with Pete H

Good sequence busting right and a finish which you don't feel like you deserve when you get there.
halfmanhalfbiscuit - Lead O/S - Apr/11

zero six - Lead O/S - Apr/11

barni - 2nd rpt - 16/Mar/11 with luke

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/11 with Barni

Got on this as I guessed it would be moe likely than Penny. Found the lower groove bold but fairly steady and did break some rock off! Got to the ledge, then some guys abbed off down the line I was on so had to wait for them, during this time, the sun went in and the temperature dropped. Got up to the peg and backed it up but coldness plus the steepness of the wall above made the pump in my forearms hard to argue with. Will be back.
Duncan Campbell - UKC - Lead dnf - 05/Mar/11 with Jez Hawksworth, laura, Mason

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

centurion05 - 2011

phil64 - Lead rpt - 16/Oct/10 with rachie

Barry Kerslake - 2nd dog - 31/May/10 with Luke F

i'll naughtily take a retro flash for this (tried 3 years ago but dont remember much). superb route, felt slightly bold to start though good nuts (i did the correct start as opposed to starting up Penny [aka Katana] and then traversing into Final Solution then trying to finish via Sai Dancing - what the hell was i thinking / doing last time!) with cool, well-positioned moves across the headwall. i thought these might be 6b but in fact its 6a if you use the holds! the pod was actually straightforward but i dislodged my gear as i moved up so it all felt quite interesting. one of the best at Holyhead.
ksjs - Lead β - 30/May/10 with rob

the best route hereabouts.
ian caton - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with Abi

Absolutely brilliant upper half!
JulesV - Lead O/S - 03/May/10 with Shauna Cunningham

Hidden - 2nd - May/10

Lovely bit of climbing. boldish bottom section to final solution, then hands off before launching out in 3 good pulls.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/10 with James Grey

Hidden - 2010

backward and farward
barni - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/09 with Justin Hughes

Paulww - Lead dnf - 10/Oct/09

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/09 with Al

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/09

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/09 with Andy Reeve

lukea - Lead - 26/Oct/08 with luke

crackin.
lukehunt - Lead - 26/Oct/08 with Jon Stokes

feilx - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/08 with Phil Davis

Rich Kirby - Lead - 27/Aug/07

took my time on this and paid the price with encroaching darkness. the move rightwards across the headwall is surely 6b (fell about 3 times here before grabbing peg and aiding through). once through that, the box seemed to require thought but thats where i called it a day. one to go back for...
ksjs - Lead dnf - 25/Aug/07 with goosebump

BMC international meet.
andi turner - Lead O/S - 13/May/06 with Max the German

switch - Lead O/S - 2005

Injured Conis hand
rapidrich - Lead dnf - 06/Apr/03 with Coni

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/May/02

Kevin Avery - Lead O/S - 2002

sadams - 2nd - 30/May/00 with Tom Briggs

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000 with Phil T

Hidden - Lead β - 30/May/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/99

craig h - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/98 with Janet Hannah

Mark Kemball - Lead - 13/Aug/92 with Alison Dorey

GuyM - 1985

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jonnyridleylogan, rustaldo, Ian Jones, Ewan Russell, Ched, Yong_Welsh, Hidden, a_radiohead_fan

Voting
Total votes cast 67
hard E40 of 23
E40 of 23
easy E42 of 23
hard E320 of 23
E31 of 23
easy E30 of 23
hard E20 of 23
E20 of 23
easy E20 of 23
hard 6b0 of 23
6b0 of 23
easy 6b1 of 23
hard 6a2 of 23
6a19 of 23
easy 6a1 of 23
hard 5c0 of 23
5c0 of 23
easy 5c0 of 23
3 Stars12 of 21
2 Stars8 of 21
1 Star1 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
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Style of ascent

Lead43 of 61 (70.5%)
Followed12 of 61 (19.7%)
Unknown6 of 61 (9.8%)

'Climbed'17 of 61 (27.9%)
clean O/S30 of 61 (49.2%)
clean β2 of 61 (3.3%)
clean rpt3 of 61 (4.9%)
dogged4 of 61 (6.6%)
dnf5 of 61 (8.2%)