Gogarth and Anglesey > Holyhead Mountain >
 
Penny** E4 6a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Katana
 
Sai Dancing >>
[penny, 3 kb]37m. Blast up the obvious leftward slanting crackline til it ends and finish easily above. Pumpier than it looks but safe as you like.
J Redhead, K Robertson 1982

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Photo: penny © spidey
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 83 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

First E4. Hell yeah! So drained by the top. Ace route. For clarity, the one called Penny in the Gogarth North definitive and Katana almost everywhere else.
AJM - Lead O/S - 30/May/13 with Tom Lambert

Good lead from Andy. Seconded with one slip due to the mounting pump.
Tubs - 2nd dog - 30/May/13 with AJM

Sweated out of the flared jams on the last move before the easy climbing. Gutted.
Chriswallis2 - Lead dog - 30/May/13 with Rachel, Dumpster Dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/13

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Tom Jagger

Safe as houses, sporty moves, great for pushing your grade.
Luke_G - Lead dog - 05/May/13 with Danny Crump

Dave Parton - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with Adam Ellwood

Danny Crump - 2nd - 04/May/13 with Luke Green

Still very hard - too hard. Insanely good lead by Gwen
Sardien - 2nd dog - 03/Mar/13 with Gwen Lancashire

Very very good. Really sustained then a distinct 6a crux at the top, maybe a 6a move at the bottom too.
JRae - Lead O/S - 09/Dec/12 with M Watson

Came off at the beginning after wrestling with a cam for a while. Very pumpy route but fine if you keep moving.
MichaelGallimore - 2nd O/S - 04/Nov/12 with Stephan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd dog - 14/Aug/12

Helena did amazing on the lead. I found it very puzzling to read the route - where and how to hold the holds. Amazing moves tho.
Sardien - 2nd dog - 25/Jun/12 with Helena Robinson

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 12/May/12

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 06/May/12

Hidden - Lead - 06/May/12

CJEFF - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/12 with Thomas Ramsdon

Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/11 with Connor

conorcussell - 2nd - 12/Nov/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/11

dan ely - Lead RP - 21/Aug/11 with emily

Poorish holds for a few moves at the end but gd kit by the quartz crimp then a bit of manouvreing yourself to take the crack the correct way.
mynyddresident - Lead β - 17/Aug/11 with erika

Good route but I see this is hard E4 according to the votes. Get a grip! Wouldn't have complained if this was graded E3 5c. Sustained, well protected but never hard and not even that pumpy.
gforce - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/11 with Emma

dan ely - Lead dog - 01/Aug/11 with pearce

Great lead by Nic - her first cleanE3 for quite a few years. Couldn't quite figure out the crux move beforerunning out of steam. When I did it I realisedIshouldhave gone with the flow and probaly would have worked
Swotson - 2nd dog - 16/Jul/11 with Nic Basnett

dannyboy83 - 2nd O/S - 07/Jul/11 with Jake

No 6a moves on this, just steady pumpy 5c with tons of gear! Quality route.
jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/11 with Dan Barbour

stevebarratt - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/11 with Rob Sandercock

first onsight e4 attempt. wish i had paid more attention to the last sentence in description "follow the pumpy crack". down climbed twice then went for it. got halfway then heavens opened. lowered off ...... ps. loose block is now neatly placed at the bottom of the climb if anybody wants to put it back!
vertically_challenged - Lead dnf - 07/Jun/11

nic's gear for the 1st half... put loads of gear in the 2nd half for some mad reason... pump..
wolf.leeb - Lead β - 31/May/11 with nic

Too much time contemplating the tricky bit above the loose block. Handed over the reigns..
mynyddresident - Lead dnf - 31/May/11 with wolf

mynyddresident - 2nd - 31/May/11 with wolf

Soooooooo pumpy but great gear all the way up. A real sting in the tail too.
Owain Llewelyn - Lead β - 27/Apr/11 with Dad

offroute - Lead - 17/Apr/11

switch - 2nd rpt - 13/Mar/11 with Jo Bertalot

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

centurion05 - 2011

mwatson - 2011

never been so pumped!!! could barely squeeze cam towards the end of the crack! a good fight!
willoates - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with lawrence

Got spanked on this a couple of weeks ago, went back and managed to control the pump to the top. Best line on the crag maybe? Brilliant route!
david morse - Lead RP - 07/Oct/10 with duncan+heather

Hidden - Lead dnf - 07/Oct/10

i think other comments say all that needs saying.
ian caton - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Abi

JulesV - Lead O/S - 03/May/10 with Shauna Cunningham

hard work
Shauna - 2nd dog - 03/May/10 with Jules

datoon - Lead dog - 02/May/10 with K

Final Solution not Penny. 2nd time on this and really, start and finish aside, its very straightforward at E3. gear at the end is very good so no issues if you do peel off. a more controlled effort to leave the crack this time but still awkward
ksjs - Lead rpt - 11/Mar/10 with owen

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Feb/10

Got mega pumped, fell..rested and finished
drewish - Lead - 06/Feb/10 with Hervacious

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jan/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 17/Oct/09

Was meant to be an attempt on sai dancing, but got bored of trying to find where this route went and followed the crack to the top. Sai dancing seems a very contrived line...
smallerrich - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/09 with James

farmus21 - 2nd - 27/Sep/09 with Rich Cannell

Glyn - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/09 with Tony Stone

Think this is actually called final solution. Gnarly, started up sai dancing struggled for gear. then entered the crack and rode a pump all the way to the top.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/09 with Guy VG

Hidden - Lead dog - 18/Aug/09

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/09 with Andy Reeve

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/09

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/09 with Adam Hodgson and Emma Twyford

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with Joe Bawden

correct name = Final Solution (right to left diagonal crack parallel and right of Penny [previously Katana]). very good with good gear throughout. think the 2nd peg on Sai Dancing has snapped but still easy to protect. exciting the crack is harder than you might like - save some juice...
ksjs - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with goosebump

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/Apr/09

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/09 with Tom Eagle

barni - Lead dog - 23/Jan/09 with Shoulders

lukea - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/08 with Al

Dave Rumney - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Tanya Milner

took a lob slipping off the last move, got back on and finished it
liam - Lead - 04/Jun/08 with Probes

Docent - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/08 with sari

nige - Lead - 24/Jul/07 with mark hounslea

a_radiohead_fan - Oct/06

Completed the top after, Si and Tom couldn't top out
rapidrich - Lead β - 24/Mar/03 with Si

Kevin Avery - Lead O/S - 2002

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/01

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2001

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/00

Hidden - Lead dog - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

michael burrows - Lead dog - 16/Mar/97 with sandy dobie

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1986

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
samrad, rustaldo, Ian Jones, Ched

Voting
Total votes cast 59
hard E50 of 18
E50 of 18
easy E50 of 18
hard E46 of 18
E45 of 18
easy E44 of 18
hard E33 of 18
E30 of 18
easy E30 of 18
hard 6b0 of 17
6b0 of 17
easy 6b0 of 17
hard 6a1 of 17
6a9 of 17
easy 6a2 of 17
hard 5c5 of 17
5c0 of 17
easy 5c0 of 17
3 Stars9 of 24
2 Stars11 of 24
1 Star4 of 24
0 Stars0 of 24
Bag of .....0 of 24
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Style of ascent

Lead57 of 83 (68.7%)
Followed19 of 83 (22.9%)
Alt Leads1 of 83 (1.2%)
Unknown6 of 83 (7.2%)

'Climbed'16 of 83 (19.3%)
clean O/S38 of 83 (45.8%)
clean β4 of 83 (4.8%)
clean rpt6 of 83 (7.2%)
clean RP2 of 83 (2.4%)
dogged14 of 83 (16.9%)
dnf3 of 83 (3.6%)