Penny (Katana)** E4 6a

Rockfax Description
This route is actually called Penny, however the name has been known for longer as Katana (a Japanese sword) which is a much better name describing the look and feel of the diagonal slit across the wall. It is a sustained affair and a real test-piece. Start just left of the crack, and make a difficult and committing move to gain it. Follow it to King Bee Crack, and on to the top. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
This route is actually called Penny, however the name has been known for longer as Katana (a Japaneese sword) which is a much better name describing the look and feel of the diagonal slit across the wall. It is sustained and painful affair, and a real test-piece. Start just left of the crack, and make a difficult and committing move to gain the it. Follow it to King Bee Crack, and on to the top.

J Redhead, K Robertson 1982

Ticklists: Gogarth Extreme Gems, North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

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This climb is in 186 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

On daves gear
Ramon Marin - Lead β - 29/Sep/15 with dave pickford

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/15 with Neil C, Aidan

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jul/15

Good, bit pumpy!
andi turner - Lead - 17/May/15 with pete bridgwood

Fell off the start, again!
MichaelGallimore - 2nd rpt - 19/Apr/15 with Andy Cmc

jamestaylor92 - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/15 with tom morgan, james slater

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/15

Hidden - Lead dog - 20/Sep/14

Struggled alot again. Start took me about 6 attempts
Maddie - 2nd dog - 23/Aug/14 with remus

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/14

Dan Hostford - 2nd dog - 23/Aug/14 with Remus Knowles, Maddie Sweetman, Alun Freem, Remi Richards

Ed morris - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/14 with stefan

Stefan_Morris - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/14 with Edmundmorris

I did get pumped, but not too pumped, more like end of the day fatigue.
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/14 with James Oswald

Fell off when my foot slipped off a huge foothold on the last metre. All the holds are much worse than they look..
James Oswald - 2nd dog - 28/Jun/14 with Rachel Slater

Awesome route, practised once on shunt the week before. Pumpy but took ages on it. First E4 6a
alexjz - Lead RP - 18/Jun/14 with Jennifer Holloway

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/14

top rope with shunt. Brilliant line, will return to lead it
alexjz - TR dog - 11/Jun/14

soft i think but brill line
Alistair Corbett - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/14 with Matt Robinson

C coldwell-storry - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14 with Neil Chelton

Sustained and hard.
mes32 - 2nd dog - 26/May/14 with Wilki

So much gear! Class
nathanlee - Lead O/S - 25/May/14 with Henry Francis, Jack Lawledge, Oli Grounsell

bwestwood - 2nd - 09/May/14

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 09/May/14

Glyn - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/14 with Amy

Amy UT - 2nd - 25/Apr/14 with Glyn

Brilliant route, what a line! Darren's was so steady and managed to lace the thing. None of the moves were a give-away, everything required thought and specific body positioning. Didn't notice any 6a moves though, it felt like mostly 5c moves seperated by a few barely adequate rests. The crux for me was where it steepens shortly before joining KBC.
dswansonlow - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/14 with Darren McMaster

Awesome line and a quality route! The climbing isn't obvious and the holds are never straight forward meaning the moves look/feel impossible until you change you body position slightly. Not really my style but felt nice and steady on it. Took a few attempts climbing up and down to commit to the crux moves at the bottom of the route. Once that was done it was sustained climbing all the way but managed to find a rest and place a sinker nut after almost every move so absolutely laced the route and never actually got pumped. Fantastic!
shed_hed - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14 with Dougie Swanson-Low

Seymore Butt - 2014

I went off route at the first few metres before reaching the main crack, climbed back down and went for the correct line. But I was too pumped, so climbed back down to the ground. Rob kindly retrieved the gear I left by various tactics. Next time! It will be still an onsight ascent, as I didn't weigh any gear.
masa-alpin - Lead dnf - 13/Oct/13 with Rob G

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/13

Owain Llewelyn - Lead rpt - 20/Jun/13 with Gareth E

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13

First E4. Hell yeah! So drained by the top. Ace route. For clarity, the one called Penny in the Gogarth North definitive and Katana almost everywhere else.
AJM - Lead O/S - 30/May/13 with Tom Lambert

Good lead from Andy. Seconded with one slip due to the mounting pump.
Tubs - 2nd dog - 30/May/13 with AJM

Sweated out of the flared jams on the last move before the easy climbing. Gutted.
Chriswallis2 - Lead dog - 30/May/13 with Rachel, Dumpster Dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/13

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Tom Jagger

Safe as houses, sporty moves, great for pushing your grade.
Luke_G - Lead dog - 05/May/13 with Danny Crump

Dave Parton - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with Adam Ellwood

Danny Crump - 2nd - 04/May/13 with Luke Green

Still very hard - too hard. Insanely good lead by Gwen
Sardien - 2nd dog - 03/Mar/13 with Gwen Lancashire

JRae - Lead O/S - 09/Dec/12 with M Watson

Very very good. Really sustained then a distinct 6a crux at the top, maybe a 6a move at the bottom too.
JRae - Lead O/S - 09/Dec/12 with M Watson

found this really had when i lead it, didn't even get pumped this time
mwatson - 2nd rpt - 09/Dec/12

Came off at the beginning after wrestling with a cam for a while. Very pumpy route but fine if you keep moving.
MichaelGallimore - 2nd O/S - 04/Nov/12 with Stephan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/12

Rachel Somerville - 2nd dog - 14/Aug/12 with Nik

mshorter - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/12 with dunc

Helena did amazing on the lead. I found it very puzzling to read the route - where and how to hold the holds. Amazing moves tho.
Sardien - 2nd dog - 25/Jun/12 with Helena Robinson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 12/May/12

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 06/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

Hidden - Lead - 06/May/12

switch - Lead rpt - 05/May/12 with Leanne

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/11

Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/11 with Connor

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Nov/11

Andy Hardy - 2nd - 27/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/11

dan ely - Lead RP - 21/Aug/11 with emily

Poorish holds for a few moves at the end but gd kit by the quartz crimp then a bit of manouvreing yourself to take the crack the correct way.
mynyddresident - Lead β - 17/Aug/11 with erika

Good route but I see this is hard E4 according to the votes. Get a grip! Wouldn't have complained if this was graded E3 5c. Sustained, well protected but never hard and not even that pumpy.
gforce - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/11 with Emma

dan ely - Lead dog - 01/Aug/11 with pearce

Hidden - 2nd dog - 16/Jul/11

dannyboy83 - 2nd O/S - 07/Jul/11 with Jake

No 6a moves on this, just steady pumpy 5c with tons of gear! Quality route.
jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/11 with Dan Barbour

stevebarratt - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/11 with Rob Sandercock

first onsight e4 attempt. wish i had paid more attention to the last sentence in description "follow the pumpy crack". down climbed twice then went for it. got halfway then heavens opened. lowered off ...... ps. loose block is now neatly placed at the bottom of the climb if anybody wants to put it back!
vertically_challenged - Lead dnf - 07/Jun/11

nic's gear for the 1st half... put loads of gear in the 2nd half for some mad reason... pump..
wolf.leeb - Lead β - 31/May/11 with nic

Too much time contemplating the tricky bit above the loose block. Handed over the reigns..
mynyddresident - Lead dnf - 31/May/11 with wolf

mynyddresident - 2nd - 31/May/11 with wolf

lost.arrow - 30/May/11

Bit tougher when wet - quartz was very greasy.
ksjs - 2nd rpt - 11/May/11 with Joey

Soooooooo pumpy but great gear all the way up. A real sting in the tail too.
Owain Llewelyn - Lead β - 27/Apr/11 with Dad

Liam FLeming - Lead - 17/Apr/11

switch - 2nd rpt - 13/Mar/11 with Jo Bertalot

Hidden - Lead - 01/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/11

Toby Dunn - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

centurion05 - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Hidden - 2011

never been so pumped!!! could barely squeeze cam towards the end of the crack! a good fight!
willoates - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with lawrence

Got spanked on this a couple of weeks ago, went back and managed to control the pump to the top. Best line on the crag maybe? Brilliant route!
david morse - Lead RP - 07/Oct/10 with duncan+heather

Went or it onsight, but couldnt get crucial wire in...que Dave who crushed it! He lowered off and then I went up on his gear, blasted through overlap crux, but got shut-down trying to read the crackline...then had a bit of a dogfest but only got another piece of gear up...gonna get fit and have it!!!!
Duncan Campbell - Lead dnf - 07/Oct/10 with Florence the Machine, Dave Morse

Hidden - Lead dog - 12/Sep/10

i think other comments say all that needs saying.
ian caton - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Abi

Hidden - Lead - 08/Aug/10

London Luke - Lead - Jul/10

ian caton - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with roger, Abi

ellis - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Tom Bridgeland

Luke Brooks - Lead - 12/May/10 with John Orr

Climbed back from 1/3rd height. Will try it again when I'm less knackered.
Adam Booth - Lead dnf - 08/May/10

JulesV - Lead O/S - 03/May/10 with Shauna Cunningham

hard work
Shauna - 2nd dog - 03/May/10 with Jules

pumpy but no stopper moves
Rowansb - Lead O/S - 02/May/10 with sean

datoon - Lead dog - 02/May/10 with K

Final Solution not Penny. 2nd time on this and really, start and finish aside, its very straightforward at E3. gear at the end is very good so no issues if you do peel off. a more controlled effort to leave the crack this time but still awkward
ksjs - Lead rpt - 11/Mar/10 with owen

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Feb/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Feb/10

Got mega pumped, fell..rested and finished
drewish - Lead - 06/Feb/10 with Hervacious

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jan/10

Tried it half a year ago and came off, went quite smoothly this time. not over till its over
Mike Goldthorp - Lead RP - 17/Jan/10 with alex mason, Herve

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Dave Searle - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/09 with gav

Now called Penny?!
Rich Kirby - 2nd rpt - 17/Oct/09 with Kev

Now called Final Solution - why on earth would you go changing the names after 20 years!
Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Kev

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 17/Oct/09

Was meant to be an attempt on sai dancing, but got bored of trying to find where this route went and followed the crack to the top. Sai dancing seems a very contrived line...
smallerrich - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/09 with James

farmus21 - 2nd - 27/Sep/09 with Rich Cannell

Glyn - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/09 with Tony Stone

Think this is actually called final solution. Gnarly, started up sai dancing struggled for gear. then entered the crack and rode a pump all the way to the top.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/09 with Guy VG

On steves gear, but hung around it for authenticity, great route with a great line. Soft but way too pumpy for an E3 leader?
Alex Mason - Lead β - 24/Aug/09 with Steve Ramsden

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/09 with Al

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 18/Aug/09

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/09 with Andy Reeve

Rob Pitt - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/09 with Keith Scarlett

ksjs - 2nd rpt - 13/Aug/09 with rob

after a spanking on it earlier in the year I got back on it. It still hurt, but went better this time.
mux - Lead - 01/Aug/09 with Barry

felt alot steadier this time round. But i was seconding. good effort will doing it straight off.
Ed Booth - 2nd - 01/Aug/09 with will sim

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/09

Oli - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/09 with Dave Johnson

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/09 with Adam Hodgson and Emma Twyford

C Mclean - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with Ben Macnally

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with Joe Bawden

correct name = Final Solution (right to left diagonal crack parallel and right of Penny [previously Katana]). very good with good gear throughout. think the 2nd peg on Sai Dancing has snapped but still easy to protect. exciting the crack is harder than you might like - save some juice...
ksjs - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with goosebump

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/Apr/09

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/09 with Tom Eagle

barni - Lead dog - 23/Jan/09 with Shoulders

barni - Lead dog - 14/Dec/08 with Sam

Hmmmm. Relieved to pull into 'King Bee Crack.' Techincal, sustained climbing between inventive poor rests proved to be the order of the day. Another 'on-off' moment experienced on this route when moving into the upper crux- scary! The start seemed protectable but on bounce test the 'baby bouncer' setup all ripped out with a hail of high velocity metal work. Pumpy!
mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/08 with Pete Harrison

lukea - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/08 with Al

Dave Rumney - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Tanya Milner

feilx - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/08 with Phil Davis

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/08 with sam read

Hidden - TR O/S - Jul/08

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jun/08

centurion05 - TR O/S - 13/May/08

Docent - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/08 with sari

dctarrant2000 - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/07 with Polly Tarrant

barni - Lead dog - 02/Sep/07 with Guy

good, relatively sustained climbing with only 1 trickier section. physical if you havent got stamina but good gear throughout. soft E4.
ksjs - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07 with goosebump

nige - Lead - 24/Jul/07 with mark hounslea

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/07

KKilroy - 2nd O/S - 2007 with Luke

a_radiohead_fan - Oct/06

IOAN D - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/06 with rick

Hidden - Lead G/U - 18/May/06

Ian McNeill - 2006

Chris Reid - Lead O/S - 28/May/05

ali_robb - Lead O/S - Jul/04

Completed the top after, Si and Tom couldn't top out
rapidrich - Lead β - 24/Mar/03 with Si

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2002

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/01

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2001

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2001

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/00

sadams - Lead O/S - 30/May/00 with Tom Briggs

nige - 2nd - Mar/00 with mark hounslea

Hidden - Lead dog - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Lead β - 30/May/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/99

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/98

michael burrows - Lead dog - 16/Mar/97 with sandy dobie

Rich Kirby - Lead dog - 1997 with Hugh

Hidden - Lead - 1995

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/94 with Nick Wharton

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/93 with Bob Marks, Neil McCallum

Nick Biven - 2nd - 13/Sep/92 with Rich Whitwell

Mark Kemball - Lead - 13/Aug/92 with Alison Dorey

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1986

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1986

GuyM - 1985

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mzk, Tom Livingstone, samrad, Huw Cropper, alexanderjwatts, rustaldo, Ian Jones, simeclimb68, karmaclimbing, Ched, jamiev, Bennykr, lukea, Will Jung, MPL

Total votes cast 78
hard E50 of 24
E50 of 24
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hard E48 of 24
E46 of 24
easy E46 of 24
hard E33 of 24
E31 of 24
easy E30 of 24
hard 6b0 of 23
6b0 of 23
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP