First E4. Hell yeah! So drained by the top. Ace route. For clarity, the one called Penny in the Gogarth North definitive and Katana almost everywhere else.
AJM - Lead O/S - 30/May/13 with Tom Lambert
Good lead from Andy. Seconded with one slip due to the mounting pump.
Tubs - 2nd dog - 30/May/13 with AJM
Sweated out of the flared jams on the last move before the easy climbing. Gutted.
Chriswallis2 - Lead dog - 30/May/13 with Rachel, Dumpster Dave
Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/13
Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Tom Jagger
Safe as houses, sporty moves, great for pushing your grade.
Luke_G - Lead dog - 05/May/13 with Danny Crump
Dave Parton - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with Adam Ellwood
Danny Crump - 2nd - 04/May/13 with Luke Green
Still very hard - too hard. Insanely good lead by Gwen
Sardien - 2nd dog - 03/Mar/13 with Gwen Lancashire
Very very good. Really sustained then a distinct 6a crux at the top, maybe a 6a move at the bottom too.
JRae - Lead O/S - 09/Dec/12 with M Watson
Came off at the beginning after wrestling with a cam for a while. Very pumpy route but fine if you keep moving.
MichaelGallimore - 2nd O/S - 04/Nov/12 with Stephan
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/12
Hidden - 2nd dog - 14/Aug/12
Helena did amazing on the lead. I found it very puzzling to read the route - where and how to hold the holds. Amazing moves tho.
Sardien - 2nd dog - 25/Jun/12 with Helena Robinson
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 12/May/12
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 06/May/12
Hidden - Lead - 06/May/12
CJEFF - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/12 with Thomas Ramsdon
Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/11 with Connor
conorcussell - 2nd - 12/Nov/11
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/11
dan ely - Lead RP - 21/Aug/11 with emily
Poorish holds for a few moves at the end but gd kit by the quartz crimp then a bit of manouvreing yourself to take the crack the correct way.
mynyddresident - Lead β - 17/Aug/11 with erika
Good route but I see this is hard E4 according to the votes. Get a grip! Wouldn't have complained if this was graded E3 5c. Sustained, well protected but never hard and not even that pumpy.
gforce - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/11 with Emma
dan ely - Lead dog - 01/Aug/11 with pearce
Great lead by Nic - her first cleanE3 for quite a few years. Couldn't quite figure out the crux move beforerunning out of steam. When I did it I realisedIshouldhave gone with the flow and probaly would have worked
Swotson - 2nd dog - 16/Jul/11 with Nic Basnett
dannyboy83 - 2nd O/S - 07/Jul/11 with Jake
No 6a moves on this, just steady pumpy 5c with tons of gear! Quality route.
jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/11 with Dan Barbour
stevebarratt - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/11 with Rob Sandercock
first onsight e4 attempt. wish i had paid more attention to the last sentence in description "follow the pumpy crack". down climbed twice then went for it. got halfway then heavens opened. lowered off ...... ps. loose block is now neatly placed at the bottom of the climb if anybody wants to put it back!
vertically_challenged - Lead dnf - 07/Jun/11
nic's gear for the 1st half... put loads of gear in the 2nd half for some mad reason... pump..
wolf.leeb - Lead β - 31/May/11 with nic
Too much time contemplating the tricky bit above the loose block. Handed over the reigns..
mynyddresident - Lead dnf - 31/May/11 with wolf
mynyddresident - 2nd - 31/May/11 with wolf
Soooooooo pumpy but great gear all the way up. A real sting in the tail too.
Owain Llewelyn - Lead β - 27/Apr/11 with Dad
offroute - Lead - 17/Apr/11
switch - 2nd rpt - 13/Mar/11 with Jo Bertalot
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - 2011
centurion05 - 2011
mwatson - 2011
never been so pumped!!! could barely squeeze cam towards the end of the crack! a good fight!
willoates - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with lawrence
Got spanked on this a couple of weeks ago, went back and managed to control the pump to the top. Best line on the crag maybe? Brilliant route!
david morse - Lead RP - 07/Oct/10 with duncan+heather
Hidden - Lead dnf - 07/Oct/10
i think other comments say all that needs saying.
ian caton - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Abi
JulesV - Lead O/S - 03/May/10 with Shauna Cunningham
hard work
Shauna - 2nd dog - 03/May/10 with Jules
datoon - Lead dog - 02/May/10 with K
Final Solution not Penny. 2nd time on this and really, start and finish aside, its very straightforward at E3. gear at the end is very good so no issues if you do peel off. a more controlled effort to leave the crack this time but still awkward
ksjs - Lead rpt - 11/Mar/10 with owen
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Feb/10
Got mega pumped, fell..rested and finished
drewish - Lead - 06/Feb/10 with Hervacious
Hidden - Lead - 22/Jan/10
Hidden - 2010
Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 17/Oct/09
Was meant to be an attempt on sai dancing, but got bored of trying to find where this route went and followed the crack to the top. Sai dancing seems a very contrived line...
smallerrich - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/09 with James
farmus21 - 2nd - 27/Sep/09 with Rich Cannell
Glyn - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/09 with Tony Stone
Think this is actually called final solution. Gnarly, started up sai dancing struggled for gear. then entered the crack and rode a pump all the way to the top.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/09 with Guy VG
Hidden - Lead dog - 18/Aug/09
Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/09 with Andy Reeve
Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/09
mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/09 with Adam Hodgson and Emma Twyford
Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with Joe Bawden
correct name = Final Solution (right to left diagonal crack parallel and right of Penny [previously Katana]). very good with good gear throughout. think the 2nd peg on Sai Dancing has snapped but still easy to protect. exciting the crack is harder than you might like - save some juice...
ksjs - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with goosebump
Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/Apr/09
Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/09 with Tom Eagle
barni - Lead dog - 23/Jan/09 with Shoulders
lukea - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/08 with Al
Dave Rumney - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Tanya Milner
took a lob slipping off the last move, got back on and finished it
liam - Lead - 04/Jun/08 with Probes
Docent - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/08 with sari
nige - Lead - 24/Jul/07 with mark hounslea
a_radiohead_fan - Oct/06
Completed the top after, Si and Tom couldn't top out
rapidrich - Lead β - 24/Mar/03 with Si
Kevin Avery - Lead O/S - 2002
Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/01
tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2001
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/00
Hidden - Lead dog - 2000
Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000
michael burrows - Lead dog - 16/Mar/97 with sandy dobie
mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1990
Hidden - Lead O/S - 1986