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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
The upward trajectory is usually hidden in the tree canopy but the climbing is good and the rock clean. Top of the grade. Start where the approach path meets the cliff. Take the corner to the overhang and then traverse right to a very short crack in a corner. Exit the short corner over an overhang and attain the wall above with difficulty. Head carefully up to the overhang above, pass it on the left to reach a groove and then a small ledge on its left. Take cracks up and then leftward to tree belays. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , Wye Valley must do , 2021 , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| lieraza | 22 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: We (mostly Colin) did lots of gardening, including removing the giant rose bush. Now is a good time to climb this route! Someone had put fresh bit of tat on the ab tree too, thanks. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: We (mostly Colin) did lots of gardening, including removing the giant rose bush. Now is a good time to climb this route! Someone had put fresh bit of tat on the ab tree too, thanks. |
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| Tom Brierley | 17 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The abseil slings have gotten rather gooey from sitting in mud and leaves collecting behind the tree, on close inspection they appear in tact but i'm not sure how this affects their strength... I cleared the mud and it held my descent. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The abseil slings have gotten rather gooey from sitting in mud and leaves collecting behind the tree, on close inspection they appear in tact but i'm not sure how this affects their strength... I cleared the mud and it held my descent. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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Motion Pictures
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Shorn Cliff)