Start near the top of the scree cone, just right of the Vonbank tunnel at the base of a rightwards trending crack.
1) IV, 40m. Climb the crack above to reach the top of a small detached pillar. Pull through a bulge to reach a small terrace and a ring belay.
2) IV-, 20m. Take the right-hand of two parallel cracks to a stance below a deep cave.
3) IV-, 30m. Exit left from the cave then climb direct to gain a corner. At the corner's end traverse right to climb an enjoyable slab just right of the main crack-line. Belay below and at the right-hand side of a yellow roof.
4) III, 40m. Move right from under the roof then climb another slab to the right of the crack-line direct. Continue more easily right to reach a large ledge. Here variants Alta and Bassa meet.
5) III+, 30m. Climb direct up the slabs above to a thread belay to the left and below the yellow face. This pitch is shared with Alta.
6) IV-, 20m. Follow a chimney gully to the left to a stance by a flake.
7) IV-, 20m. Continue left then move more easily back right to belay below the right-hand edge of a yellow roof.
8) I, 25m. Move right from under the overhang then follow a grassy ledge back left to a stance in a yellow niche.
9) III, 40m. Exit left from the niche and follow a ramp easily to a good spike belay on a scree-covered shoulder. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
It's also worth mentioning this route has multiple belay stances at almost every pitch seperated by a couple of meters. Therefore an option for larger groups.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Lead all 8 pitches, did the first pitch in a pair of my grippy crag shoes!
Lead 1st, 3rd, 5th and 8th pitches
Good until pitch 8. Definitely went the right way as per numerous topos but abbed down 25m to get onto something more solid and saner.It seems a lot of folk do this as the ab point looked heavily used!
Really enjoyed this until pitch 8. Multiple looks to see if anything grade IV could be found - I followed multiple topos and signs of a lot previous traffic up a left sloping ramp (piton at top) and back right. What I went up was ~V/V+ overhanging with loose rock finishing to the right and below a large cave looking into a deep gully. The next pitch is meant to grade II but what loomed above was definitely not. Abseiled down gully to rejoin where everyone else seemed to go. The amount of tat, mallions and two jammed ropes suggest we weren't the first and probably won't be the last!
Nice route, great day. Led the last few pitches. Started too far to the left and Steven led a couple of wandering pitches before we joined the route proper a couple of pitches up. Judging from all the tat and polish we clearly weren't the first. Still weren't immediately certain once we were on the route due to topo inadequacies.
Steven Harris, Pam
first multipitch in dolomites. great introduction. fine day, led all with nick. follow polish on top 4 pitches. vf down easy to find
Tom, Andy, nick f
With Laura and Caitlin. Fun, until weird pitch 8. Then ended up being a gravelly walk after being stuck in a weird gap for an hour
|tim exley||21/Jun/13||Lead O/S||
moved quickly, descended VF. worth checking out the trenches on way down!
Halla Parkin, Will Hunt
|Will Hunt||01/Aug/12||AltLd O/S||
Nice route despite Italians chucking choss down at us from the final exit pitches. Seemingly without reason, I don't think we dislodged anything.
Halla Parkin, John Puddephatt
Not particularly inspiring climb. At the big ledge took a line on the right, just to the left of the arete. loose start but then fine climbing at about E1 5b (if you're tall). Good finish to the route.
nice pleasant route on good rock.
|Mr. K||25/Aug/10||Lead O/S||
Lead all but first pitch.
Well climbed the wall left of via del buco, joining the route proper at half height.
Fiarly straight forward route finding; until the top! The kletterstieg bridge has been destroyed therefore could not walk of the noraml way. Concidered rapping down route but stuidents tired and a bit fragged. so short roped them up to summit (large steep snow patches and then tried to walk down the tunnels from the summit, 30m into the tunnels the way was blocked by ice and was flooded. Walked of via foot path to N and then into valley, = a very long day.
2 x Students
Second route in the dolomites. Forgot to clip a runner on the third pitch so some of it felt way more runout than it should have. An awesome route. Efficiency was upped on this one!
Not a great route, some ok rock but lacks line and has far too much rambling climbing.
Went slightly off-route in mid-section, number of different (mostly peg-protected) lines.
Good route. It looks intimidating for the grade but it does lean back comfortably and the top is a bit of a romp.
|Jamie Simpson||09/Jul/06||AltLd O/S||
Must read the guide book the next time, were supposed to be doing another route! Quite run out above the overlap / overhang
|rob stokes||?/Jul/04||AltLd O/S||