|Dark Forces||E3 6a|
|85m, 3 pitches. About 35m right of the Fang there is a black towering groove with huge vegetated grooves on either side, the right-hand one capped by a triangular overhang. This very fine route takes the impressive central black groove.
1) 37m (6a). Climb the corner (possible stance at 12m) to a difficult bulge at 30m. Continue past a small overhang to a stance at a flake below the obvious black triangular overhang.
2) 30m (5c). Bridge around the overhang and jam the magnificent corner crack to the final roof. Follow the crack out left round the overhang onto the head wall to a belay in a sling on a large spike.
3) 18m (4c). Hand traverse left to a short groove which gives access to flakes leading up left to the top.|
A Strapcans, G Jenkins, G Desroy 28/Aug/1979
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