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|Co. Antrim > Fair Head >
|Dark Forces|| E3 6a|
<< AD 43
Men of Kernow >>
|85m, 3 pitches. About 35m right of the Fang there is a black towering groove with huge vegetated grooves on either side, the right-hand one capped by a triangular overhang. This very fine route takes the impressive central black groove.
1) 37m (6a). Climb the corner (possible stance at 12m) to a difficult bulge at 30m. Continue past a small overhang to a stance at a flake below the obvious black triangular overhang.
2) 30m (5c). Bridge around the overhang and jam the magnificent corner crack to the final roof. Follow the crack out left round the overhang onto the head wall to a belay in a sling on a large spike.
3) 18m (4c). Hand traverse left to a short groove which gives access to flakes leading up left to the top.|
A Strapcans, G Jenkins, G Desroy 28/Aug/1979
This climb is in 8 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.
Brilliant. First two pitches both worth 6a I reckon, some tough moves at the top of the second pitch. The final pitch is an airy, juggy reward for the hard udging of the first two!
PeteH - AltLd - 31/May/14 with Brian McAlinden
Managed p1 with a struggle, then foot slipped at the top of p2. Not sure to what extent the resulting slump was held by arms/rope so put it down as fall/rest. Led clean by Richard. Great line.
harold walmsley - 2nd dog - 25/Aug/13 with Richard Bissell
khawk - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/12 with DT
KKilroy - Lead - 2012
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/06 with Aide Jebb
Hidden - AltLd - May/06
Nick Wallis - AltLd O/S - May/06 with Stan
keefe - 17/Apr/83
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