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What a great route! The first pitch is the best jamming pitch I've ever done. Not too hard, plenty of gear if you want it and perfect jamming on clean rock. The occasional hardish move or sequence always leads to a good jam and footholds. Belayed on the obvious ledge at 30m. Ed didn't fancy the top pitch so I set off up the continuation crack and accidentally ended up doing the direct finish. The original route goes up a few metres to a horizontal crack, then scoots off to the side along this to gain an easier vertical crack system. I carried on direct as there was chalk ahead and the guide book suggested belaying after 45m (or an optional belay lower down, which is what I had done) and I had only done about 35 at this stage. The guide book is wrong, there's only one sensible belay at 30m and from there it's about 20m to the top! Anyway, I carried on and it got progressively harder, with a few 5c moves just before a juggy ledge. At this point I realised the error of my ways but it was too late! The last 10m or so were very pleasant. The direct finish made for a solid E2. The first pitch was a solid E1 but not E2 and though I obviously didn't do the original second pitch it looked fairly straightforward - so I suspect the original is pretty soft at E2. Anyway, a great route.
Misha - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Ed
First pitch was fairly straightforward, lovely jamming,not especially sequency. Top pitch was considerably harder, rested a couple of times on tough sequences.
eduardo - 2nd dog - 18/Aug/13
Good harder finish
KKilroy - Lead O/S - 2012 with reyer
S Smith - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/11
Hidden - AltLd - 2010