Rockfax Description
16m. The rift in the centre of the face is a classic two pitch battle. The lower squeeze can be avoided by starting up Overhanging Groove - a cop-out - and helmets jam in the final narrow section. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start right of Overhanging Groove in the 'V' recess and climb to the cave, where a belay is possible. From the cave climb up and out to finish with exposure on the left rib.

William Parsons, circa 1900

Ticklists: Classic Rock, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK..

Nigel Bond 11/Oct -
with Colin Hutton
poigol5043 20/Sep Lead
with Matt Elliott
Dan Geh 11/Jul AltLd rpt
jonnysims 16/Jun AltLd RP

led the bit but could not work out the top bit - mike came up and finished it

AngelaC 04/May Lead

Several tries to escape chimney!

David_Gledson 23/Mar Solo rpt
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd
Nigel Bond ??/2015 -
Hidden 04/Oct/14 2nd
Bron H 01/Oct/14 Solo rpt
Alex Hallam 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S

This is a 'classic' in the sense that it's polished and horrible. However, this proved to be only the start of the dilemmas. Reaching out over to the left caused power screaming levels yet to be attained while climbing HS. Knackered, but satisfied.

rustaldo 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Alex
Hidden 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S
LanceSolf 08/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Will7777 ?/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Keith Swainson 27/Jul/14 AltLd
with James Turner, david stevens
David Stevens 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with James Turner, Keith
Mickdenali 07/Jul/14 Solo O/S

Slimey with pigeon shit, not a great route

freemanTom 12/Jun/14 2nd

Extreapigeons since previously done adding to traditional character of route

with Rory SOC
ruairidhwad ?/Jun/14 Lead β
with SOC
ColinD 17/May/14 Lead
with Craig
Hidden 23/Mar/14 2nd β
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 29/Dec/13 2nd
Al_Matheson 29/Dec/13 Lead RP

Hs my arse

Dexter JW 26/Oct/13 2nd dog
John HW 22/Sep/13 -
with Cath
Cath HW 22/Sep/13 Lead
with John HW
mark4344 29/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Quite a thrutch.did in 1 pitch. Sadly most of climb covered in pigeon shit.

ash longreach ?/Aug/13 Lead
with jim
ClareM.123 26/Jul/13 2nd

Not sure thi still deserves a classic rock tick..

joem 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with clure
ColinD 16/Jul/13 Lead
with Keith
nick ferro 09/Jul/13 -
Hidden 09/Jul/13 2nd
beds74 05/Jul/13 Lead

Big guy swinging below me! Yeah ha! Superb. Chatting to a guy who remembered the late great Arthur Dolphin climbing this route up & down 20 times in a day....lovely stuff.

with Craig Hartley
Hidden 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S
mattwilk 04/Jul/13 2nd dog

Great route. Shamefully had to rest on top section due to complete lack of route fitness and pumping out on the biggest jugs ever. Definitely up for a return.

with Mark
guisboro andy ?/Jul/13 AltLd
freemanTom 25/Jun/13 Lead

Dam good value at the grade

with Keith CMC
freemanTom 25/Jun/13 2nd rpt

2nd ascent of the evening after Everet's retreat

with Andy Lang
Anne Gumbley 12/Jun/13 2nd
markfairbank 12/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Darrell Read 09/Jun/13 Lead

Classic! Definitely type 2 fun. Led in two pitches.

papashango 06/Jun/13 Lead
with Luke
Shaw Brown 26/May/13 Lead

Very traditional!!

Hidden 22/May/13 Lead
ralphio 30/Apr/13 2nd

Wouldn't have liked leading this. Climbed it in two pitches. The second pitch being very exposed. Once I'd worked out the sequence it felt pretty secure.

with Maumau
Hidden 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Calum Wadsworth 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Harrogate club
jacobjacob 20/Apr/13 Solo O/S

HAHA, ha... ha

chris ginge ??/2013 Lead
Hidden ??/2013 -
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
AlanPedrick ??/2013 -
weekendwarrior92 ??/2013 Lead

very narrow, don't take much gear up or wear a helmet or might get stuck

with Zoe Logan
Dan Geh 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Exit was exciting at HS!

with Freshers
Mr Fuller 20/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Memorable. 3 stars because it definitely gives you something to talk about... I led P1.

SPD224 23/Aug/12 2nd
with Martin Smith
Robin Nichols 08/Aug/12 2nd O/S
David_Gledson 02/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Tom
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
j.buckley87 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
petegunn 12/Jul/12 Lead
with Davina
Hidden 12/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/12 2nd dnf
Hidden 10/Jun/12 Lead dnf
Nickster 09/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/May/12 Lead rpt
Dafydd Llywelyn 08/May/12 Lead O/S

Had a go two years ago... but didn't really get anywhere. Cracking good squirming fun!

ERH 08/May/12 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/12 Lead rpt
Matt Cooke 28/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Lead out of the cave

with Andrew Cooke
Theeni 17/Mar/12 Lead
Graham Westbrook 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Freshprintce 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Josh Neve
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Witsend3 ??/2012 Lead
keith leonard ??/2012 Lead
with wife
goadventure1 ??/2012 -
JonG ??/2012 -
JonG ??/2012 -
ERH ??/2012 -
Hidden 01/Dec/11 2nd dnf
stev1e.wilso 30/Nov/11 2nd

Awesome climb - will wear my tweeds and some kneepads next time. Finish is great.

with Simon
simon1985 30/Nov/11 Lead
TRFrost 01/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with D. Gledson
andysroom 02/Sep/11 2nd rpt
with Paul, Lizzie
jonnie3430 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Glenn, Jonny
pwilkie 02/Sep/11 Lead dog

Left hand start rather than the chimney. Found this tricky as head not in the right place having not lead for a while. Slow but steady after that.

wayne higgins leeds uk 15/Aug/11 Lead
Dave Musgrove 13/Aug/11 -
with Bob Larkin
Paul Eckton 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with steve read
petekeron ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Hugh Bradley
Hidden 12/Jul/11 2nd
Darrell Read 25/Jun/11 Lead dnf
with Jon Rogerson
Hidden 25/May/11 2nd O/S
Ste Ridd 25/May/11 Lead

Horrific but worthwhile - a true clasic.

with Jason
nick ferro 24/May/11 -
mrplastique 21/May/11 AltLd O/S
with helixmh
helixmh 21/May/11 AltLd O/S
spragglerocks 11/May/11 AltLd

Never again. Wimped out of leading the second bit. I think Steve said he hated me "11" on a scale of 1 to 10...sorry! Nearly got benighted.

with Steve M
SteveM 11/May/11 AltLd

Led thru the top half after Rach stopped in the cave. Had to evict the woodpigeons who were settling in for the night. So glad I brought a headtorch, we were the last cars left :-)

with Rachael
Jack00 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Hannah Hunt
Hidden 08/Feb/11 2nd O/S
JamieSparkes 08/Feb/11 Lead O/S
nich0las ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Ewan P
jon59 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Swirly ??/2011 -
Ben C ??/2011 -
bullybones ??/2011 -
wahniel ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Hugh Squire, Stewart McConnell
adie84 ??/2011 -
Teappleby ??/2011 AltLd
with max
Hidden 21/Sep/10 2nd dnf
Graeme Hammond 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S

excellent fun :D

with Becky E
Becky E 18/Sep/10 2nd
colin milton 04/Sep/10 Lead
with Sari Nevala
A Crook 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S

3D climbing fun :)

Hidden 04/Sep/10 2nd
NeilGriffiths 04/Sep/10 2nd

great fun

with Adam
sten 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Amy Gustin
jshields 22/Aug/10 Lead
with Jonathan Harrison
simon kimber 16/Aug/10 Lead
with Rob Sandercock
Anthony Dixon 28/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Solo
1918hasti 30/Jun/10 Lead
ayuplass 21/Jun/10 2nd
with miles
rtatham ?/Jun/10 -
chrishedgehog 27/May/10 Lead rpt
with Jamie Van A
Hidden 22/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
al jackson ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
povrs50 ??/2010 Lead dnf
ross hold ??/2010 Lead O/S
David_Gledson 30/Oct/09 Lead
timmsy 30/Oct/09 2nd
Dave Warburton 04/Oct/09 Solo O/S

Fairly sure Tom and Ewan wanted to kill me...

with Huw, Peter, Tom and Ewan
Ewan Russell 30/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

lead the second part after jim couldn't do it. What a route.

with Jim
madagascar 19/Sep/09 2nd
andrew300169 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S

horrendous but brilliant. Excellent finish. Seems hard for the grade

with Judy
carl_123 05/Sep/09 Lead
Rowansb ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
lucasp 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Horrific and worthwhile.

with Kieran (LMC)
Hidden 18/Aug/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Aug/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Aug/09 2nd dnf
christensena ?/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 10/Jul/09 2nd
monstermunch 02/Jul/09 AltLd dog
with Chris Adams
Dave Foster 19/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Contender for most polished climb at Almscliff. Having said that, what an adventurous route. Start is hard, middle is awkward and the end involves a wild swing on hugely exposed mega-jugs way above good gear. Top end HS for me.

with Andy
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead β
MeMeMe 26/May/09 Lead rpt
with Andy
Hidden 04/May/09 2nd O/S
al99 03/May/09 Lead O/S
martinazando 03/May/09 2nd O/S
Fitzy ?/May/09 Lead O/S
Simon Caldwell 29/Apr/09 Lead rpt

Went much more smoothly (ie quickly) this time. A great route.

with Carmen
Hidden ??/2009 2nd O/S
Rich Thornton ?/Dec/08 TR O/S

Wet Some tight squeezes

with Fiona Mingay, Sam Davison-Webb, James Harland
Will Hunt 15/Nov/08 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch from cave. Full of poo but great top moves.

with Tom Nichols
jonka ?/Sep/08 Lead
Hidden 31/Aug/08 Lead O/S
jason 31/Aug/08 Lead β
with manmike
Will Smith 20/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Brilliant route and great to finally do it. Did it as one pitch with the original start. No points for style, I faffed with gear for far too long, but I was surprised to find none of the moves were too awkward and the finish is superb.

with Rob
lithos 20/Aug/08 2nd
victim of mathematics 16/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Awesome. One pitch with the proper start, none of this pansying about outside the chimney nonsense. The upper chimney is amazing. A size 6 camalot made it feel a bit safer :)

with Lizzie
Hidden 16/Aug/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 10/Aug/08 Lead O/S
tash 08/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Interesting route finding and a bold move to get out of the cave. Fun but almighty amounts of faff!

with Matty K
kato'sdad 20/Jul/08 Lead
with Steve Goodens, Rob Simpson
RobSimmo 20/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Steve Goodens, Jon Berry
sparra 24/Jun/08 2nd
with Ian
Bowland Polkadot 15/Jun/08 2nd
with punky and the butcher
Hidden 14/Jun/08 2nd dog
Hidden 12/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 14/May/08 2nd O/S
thegoatstroker 02/May/08 Lead
with Nick Surgey
Hidden 25/Apr/08 Lead
jimorothy ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Left hand start. Chimneyed 'Allan Austin's fat man's alternative' outer part of chimney. Absolutely awesome. Thanks to whoever delivered that jumper, twas freezing belaying second.

with Rachel Crolla
Si dH 30/Mar/08 2nd O/S

The top of this route is something else at the grade. We both ended up almost horizontal o na big jug, which felt more like 4c/5a than 4b, and with gear below feet for Neil leading. IS it really HS? We have both always been crap at chimneys :)

with Neil, Mark, Rich
Hidden 01/Feb/08 Lead
AndrewJenkins ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
MikeDowsett ??/2008 AltLd
with Pete Scott
Adam1973 03/Nov/07 2nd O/S
with philnorv
innes ?/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Ruth
Sarah R 31/Oct/07 2nd
with Steve Sharland and Greg Grace
ollyroberts 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Ben
Hidden 30/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Babika 27/Aug/07 2nd

The only climb which I have actually managed to vomit on...

with Dusan Antosik
twodada 26/Aug/07 2nd
with Rosi
Hidden 25/Aug/07 AltLd
adi bryant ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Lee
Hidden 19/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
IanGilbertJones 22/Apr/07 Lead O/S
andysroom ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
deanj ?/Mar/07 -
nick ferro ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
fifth ??/2007 -
robman 03/Dec/06 2nd O/S

cursing chimneys!!!!!!

with stu
Northen Vince 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Oliver
Hidden 16/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Caralynh 30/Jul/06 Lead O/S

Lots of fun once I'd figured out how to make upward progress in the chimney section!

Hidden 30/Jul/06 2nd
Hidden 28/Jul/06 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Elsier ?/Jun/06 2nd dnf
with Ian
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead
markalmack ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 -
Steve Lenartowicz 31/Dec/05 -
with Clare
Simon Caldwell 13/Sep/05 Lead O/S

Right hand start. Much faffing and dithering involved, especially at the top, but I eventually made it, without cheating! Of course it was almost dark by then, which pleased my partner no end...

with Carmen
Hidden 28/Aug/05 Lead O/S
BALD EAGLE 01/May/05 Lead
with Christian Darr
Chesh ?/May/05 Lead
with Lawrence
Peter Smith ??/2005 Lead
MazElden ??/2005 -
Hidden 25/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Mattyk 02/Jun/04 Lead O/S
alicia ?/Jun/04 2nd
with Matt K
Hidden 11/May/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/04 2nd
Dave Musgrove 15/Apr/04 Lead
Brown 29/Mar/04 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/04 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
petellis ??/2004 Lead
Stone Muppet ??/2004 -
Hidden 31/Jul/03 AltLd O/S
cem 01/Jun/03 AltLd O/S

I took over the lead from the cave

with Sally Dipple
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 03/Nov/02 Lead O/S
five ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with JT, PW
Hidden 23/Mar/02 2nd
Paul Figg 05/Mar/02 -
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
Climbster 25/Nov/01 Lead O/S
John Brayshaw 22/Oct/00 Lead O/S
with Chris
wildrover220 11/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Rob Kennedy
Whealiebob ??/2000 -
with Robin
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
bullybones ??/2000 -
akhughes ??/2000 Lead O/S
alan moore ??/2000 Solo

Backwards inside out upside down bridging!

mjeffery ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1999 2nd
Tenko 29/Sep/98 Lead O/S
with Mick Bradley
beaumap 08/May/98 AltLd
with Tim Waddington
jfmchivall ??/1998 -
chrishedgehog 15/Dec/96 2nd
with Mark Gill
Hidden ?/Aug/96 Lead O/S
tlr 20/Jun/96 Solo
with Pete D
Trobbo 15/Jun/96 AltLd
with john blower
Andy S ?/Jun/96 Lead O/S
rurp ??/1995 Lead O/S
rob.grafton ??/1995 -
daprince ??/1995 -
Rich ??/1995 -
Chris Ellis 11/Jul/94 2nd
with Dan Morgan
Hidden ??/1993 -
Hidden ??/1993 Solo
mark schramm ??/1993 -
Hidden ??/1992 -
Hidden ??/1992 Solo
Roget 12/Sep/91 Solo O/S
with Jonathan T
Hidden ??/1991 Lead
John Southworth 17/Oct/90 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/90 Lead O/S
Hammy 15/Aug/90 Lead
with Pete Smith
Andy Say 21/Mar/90 Solo O/S
johnkeith ??/1990 -
phardman ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 15/Oct/89 Lead
with Dad
Dave Musgrove 15/Oct/89 2nd
with David
Pete Pozman 14/Aug/89 Lead rpt
with Dave
Charlie Staincliffe ?/Apr/89 Lead O/S
craig h ??/1989 Lead
Hidden 06/Apr/88 -
Hidden ??/1988 Solo O/S
lithos ??/1988 Lead
with all sorts
Moses 04/Aug/87 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 18/May/86 Lead O/S
Pete Pozman 22/Apr/86 Lead rpt
with John Byrne
jhardwick ??/1986 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/85 Lead
hazeysunshine ??/1985 Lead O/S
Pete Ford ?/Mar/84 Lead
charlesmfrench 22/Jun/82 Lead O/S
Nigel Bond 17/Apr/82 Lead
with Steve
PaulHermes ??/1980 -
Hidden 03/Jun/79 Lead
mikej 05/Apr/72 Lead
with Stewart Grant
greenbuoy 07/Jun/69 2nd
Hidden ??/1969 2nd
Dave Musgrove 10/Oct/68 -
with Tom Morrell
Chris Craggs ??/1968 -
Dave Musgrove 13/Feb/66 Lead O/S

I'd just udged my way up Long Chimney and someone told me this was similar so was expecting another Diff! I remember feeling pretty exposed at the top trailing my rope through no runners at all! I survived to tell the tale.

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High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 53
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 50
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Not Set