Rhondda Cynon Taff > The Gap >
 
One Track Mind** 7a

Adjacent Climbs
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Greased Balls >>
[One Track Mind, 2 kb]18m. The obvious arete now bolted gives some good climbing. You can now lower off at the top of the arete or continue as before to the lower off of Greased Balls

Photo: One Track Mind © MorganPreece
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 89 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Had watched people but no-one had beta they actually liked - so a sort of antiflash! Winged it somehow, felt pretty onsight :)
AJM - Lead β - 26/Aug/13 with Kate Seaborne, Helen Seaborne

finally. worked out a new sequence going on to the nose rather than up the flat - far less brutal but far more balancy. An uneven route.
hms - Lead RP - 26/Aug/13 with AJM, kate

seemed pretty easy apart from the move over the lip. Could not get the momentum on lead to get my right foot up, which was frustrating.
hms - Lead dog - 22/Aug/13 with kate, Jenny

Hidden - Lead RP - 11/Aug/13

Robheirene - Lead dog - 07/Aug/13

Second attempt
xcomm - Lead RP - 05/Jun/13

3rd attempt, woop!
hankyc - Lead RP - 05/Jun/13

Huw Mithan - TR - 01/Jun/13 with Olivier Goury

Hidden - Lead dog - 21/May/13

Somewhat epic. Easily the best line in the quarry. Almost barndoored off the lower section but caught myself just in time. Ended up footless mantelling the half height shelf. Awesome.
DaveFidler - Lead O/S - 18/May/13 with Maurice

Rob put the clips in from 'Greased Balls'. Ive tried at some point before but never completed and didnt remember any moves.
Ollie B - Lead β - 07/May/13 with Robyn

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/May/13

Mint. Good line.
skippington - Lead RP - 04/May/13

Spillers - Lead - 05/Mar/13

Paul Robertson - Lead dog - 28/Sep/12 with Guy Percival

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/12

guy xavier percival - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/12 with paul

tweedcore - Lead RP - 25/May/12 with Leo

Garrouli - Lead O/S - 18/May/12 with Sarah Jane, Tom, Jak

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 18/May/12 with Jak, Gary, SJ

Hidden - Lead dnf - 02/Apr/12

davesimpson - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/12 with rob turner

Seems a lot harder than last year!
Stone Muppet - TR dog - 01/Mar/12 with irish

Dan Jenkin - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Tom Ball, James Marshall

Hidden - Lead β - 28/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 27/Jul/11

James Marshall - Lead β - 27/Jul/11

First 7a clean outside! Very nice feeling :-) A very nice arete with a tricky crux move half way up.
karoo88 - Lead RP - 20/Jul/11

stu1981 - Lead RP - 14/Jul/11 with Ben Mitchell

marcduhig - Lead dog - 19/Jun/11 with Sexy Liz

Harder than I remembered!
Stone Muppet - Lead RP - 15/Jun/11 with dc

Hidden - Lead - 05/Jun/11

Dan_Carroll - Lead RP - 02/Jun/11 with caspian

brilliant route
Caspian Johnson - Lead rpt - 02/Jun/11 with Dan carrol, james andrews

BicepAndrews - Lead RP - 02/Jun/11 with Josh Price, Caspian Johnson

Christian Reynish - Lead RP - 24/May/11 with stu

not fit enough to get through the crux without getting it spot on, yet..
Christian Reynish - Lead dog - 18/May/11 with stu

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/May/11

Messed up one move. Next time :)
Stone Muppet - Lead dog - 12/May/11 with ceri's mate ben

Best route on the crag!!!
westyb3 - Lead O/S - 02/May/11 with Alan Sarhan

Foot slipped off at the crux on the onsight. so close! Got it on 1st RP try. Soft 7a, genius route.
Tomar - Lead RP - 01/May/11 with Oliver Beesley

can't get the move after the first platform in the arete.
pdrums777 - TR dnf - May/11 with Phil Windley

chopstix - Lead O/S - May/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 30/Apr/11

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Tom Harrison

Trying to man up to solo this! aint far off!
MorganPreece - Lead β - 19/Mar/11 with Jessy

Climber1806 - Lead RP - 19/Mar/11 with Morgan Preece

went for onsite, fell going for good jugs in middle!
Climber1806 - Lead dog - 13/Mar/11 with Max Edwards

Hidden - Lead dnf - 02/Sep/10

Maxim2023 - Lead RP - Aug/10 with Mark Bennett

d_meacher - TR dog - 27/May/10 with Iskander

Iskander - Lead O/S - 27/May/10 with Duncan

Hidden - Lead RP - 23/May/10

Easy when you have the best beta going!!!
MorganPreece - Lead rpt - 09/May/10 with Monty

Hidden - Lead β - Apr/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead RP - Sep/09

chris sm - Lead RP - 19/Aug/09 with Cheesesarnie

Tim M - Lead RP - 19/Aug/09 with Chris Sims

Flashed it apart from one move. Identified the right hold and got it 2nd go.
richardr - Lead RP - 07/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/Jun/09

dshearer - Lead RP - 28/May/09 with Paul Rogers

Brilliant!
DafSWMC - Lead β - 26/May/09 with Gareth

Hidden - Lead RP - 23/May/09

One rest
Mikeyped - TR dog - Mar/09

Took a sidepull hold wrong above the bulge (i.e. above the gear) and ballsed up the alternative.
Paz - Lead RP - 25/Sep/08 with MT

Paul Bowen - Lead RP - 16/Sep/08 with John James

One rest. a bit more energy, skill, inspiration and perseverance and it would have been in the bag...
Tim M - Lead dog - 26/Jul/08 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 26/Jul/08 with cheesesarnie

Spicy rockover onto arete.
KH - Lead RP - 15/Jul/08 with Ben Mitchell

Fell once at the crux but what an awesome climb! It'll go next time!
SamStokes - Lead dog - 13/Jul/08 with Alex Harper

onlytovey - Lead RP - 20/Jun/08 with Hannah Williams

Hidden - Lead RP - 20/Jun/08

Billg - Lead rpt - 12/Jun/08 with Andy Cummings

super nice climb will be back to lead it next time.
tweedcore - TR O/S - 22/May/08 with Luis Herraez

Hidden - TR O/S - 22/May/08

Mark Walter - Lead RP - 22/May/08 with Jon Bleiker

rope flicked my hand off, close to getting it clean now
Mark Walter - TR dog - 13/Feb/08 with Steve Becwith

irish paul - Lead - 2008

gejones - Lead RP - 11/Jul/07 with Matt

goi.ashmore - Lead RP - 05/May/07 with Alice Howe

Billg - Lead O/S - 2007

MorganPreece - Lead O/S - 2007 with Andy Cummings

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead RP - 21/Aug/06

awesome route, low in the grade.
onlytovey - Lead dog - Aug/06

shoulders - Lead - 30/Jul/06 with ben, PETE J, dai

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Jul/06

liam jay - Lead - 2004

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, marcduhig, alex jay, Tyson Broad, Mikeyped, SamStokes

Voting
Total votes cast 58
hard 7a+0 of 30
7a+0 of 30
easy 7a+0 of 30
hard 7a0 of 30
7a12 of 30
easy 7a9 of 30
hard 6c+9 of 30
6c+0 of 30
easy 6c+0 of 30
3 Stars4 of 28
2 Stars23 of 28
1 Star1 of 28
0 Stars0 of 28
Bag of .....0 of 28
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Style of ascent

Lead79 of 89 (88.8%)
Followed1 of 89 (1.1%)
Toproped8 of 89 (9.0%)
Unknown1 of 89 (1.1%)

'Climbed'9 of 89 (10.1%)
clean O/S14 of 89 (15.7%)
clean β7 of 89 (7.9%)
clean rpt5 of 89 (5.6%)
clean RP36 of 89 (40.4%)
dogged15 of 89 (16.9%)
dnf3 of 89 (3.4%)