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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Hard moves up the middle of the buttress, passing overhangs at 5m and 10m. Begin as for A Stitch in Time. Climb A Stitch in Time to the short left-leading flake crack and make some tricky moves up right over the first overhang to reach a peg in the wall above. Continue to the next overhang and a peg, from where another series of hard moves enable a position on the wall above to be established. Join and finish as for A Stitch in Time. © Rockfax
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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The Cotswold Way
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Coaley Wood Crag)