Nice clean groove-line left of the Head Sector overhangs. Climb to the terrace, then follow a groove to a horizontal break under a roof, step left and move up to finish via a flake-crack.

Ticklists: Orange Spot Lower Wye.

Hidden 26/Sep Lead O/S
Kimmo 26/Sep 2nd dog
with Paddy
Hidden 13/Sep Lead O/S
ez does it 13/Sep Lead O/S
rachelvlc 12/Sep Lead
Gloria 12/Sep Lead

3 climbs in one

lewiz 12/Sep Lead O/S
with Yan Mao
Edward Kwong 12/Sep Lead O/S

Varied route, delicate traverse left before the finish. Remember to enjoy the view from the top.

treforsouthwell 09/Sep Lead β

Really nice climb with a few puzzling moves. Did take a small rest trying to figure out how to get onto the traverse but otherwise clean.

Stickle Tarn 09/Aug Lead O/S
Matt1234 09/Aug Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 08/Aug Lead O/S
with Illya, Simon, pascal
lukehodson 08/Aug Lead O/S

Not very good - don't understand how this is rated as a classic, even by ban-y-gor standards.

millionpoundhat 08/Aug Lead β

Clean, was going for the on-sight but one of my climbing partners just wont stop talking - a constant stream of on-sight busting beta. Seems to have seen some traffic this summer, is clean and the finish is lovely. Solid 6a!

Hidden 02/Aug Lead
Ollie B 28/Jul Lead O/S
with M. Wright
TomJ 25/Jul Lead β
with Kuang
jjsk8a 11/Jul Lead O/S

Lovely climb 2 stars all day long

Phil Murray 04/Jul Lead O/S

Nice! Gets the 6a tick at the top

with Steve Wright
joshdownham23 29/Jun Lead O/S
Ian Stirrups 19/Jun Lead

Route 3 of Wye Valley Tour Hard if under 6ft I would say.

with Sue
3 Names 10/Jun Lead rpt
with Joel
Hidden 30/May TR O/S
Robnort 30/May Lead O/S
Emily 25/May Lead RP

Finally! Makes me wonder what the fuss was about on my previous assaults on this: I just did all of it, quite smoothly. Really fun and very pleasing to tick this off at last. I think my balance is improving, or something. Found so many static positions that I'm sure I hadn't achieved previously.

with Steve
radams2000 25/May Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May Lead
SDM 23/May Lead O/S
with Michael
Hidden 23/May Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May Lead β
wjcdean 17/May Lead O/S

Guidebook says 20m but our 40m rope didn't get me back to terra firma so beware! Really good route, the final 5 meters gains it the stars.

Trevers 16/May 2nd dog

Shambles with the ropes

3 Names 16/May Lead rpt
Hidden 24/Apr Lead O/S
Billg 24/Apr Lead rpt
with Dan Cooke
steve_gibbs 10/Apr Lead O/S
with Ben Darby
luke glaister 07/Mar Lead O/S

It's a shame that a good climb like this could be a great one if it got more traffic. There's some really good climbing in between mud and brambles. Get on it people. It's good.

RobinJones 07/Mar 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
Tomas Frost ??/2015 -
Lazytraveller 26/Oct/14 Lead
badgerjockey 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Bit dusty but varied climbing

with Rich/Kuang
simonpearson 27/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Andy Brice
Legs 20/Aug/14 Lead β
Tom Brierley Gore 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Stanners 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S

A little vegetated and average for first half but top section is ace.

with Alkis, Andy G, Jack Bradbrook
Nick Russell 27/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Emily 27/Jul/14 TR dog

Ugh. Hoping to get this cleanly this time, instead fell off repeatedly in exactly the same place as before and took even longer to figure it out. However, I think the thing I ended up doing on that hard bit might have been better than what I worked out last time?

with James, Nick
Cheese Monkey 18/Jul/14 Lead β

Climbed the top after escaping off the route next door. Lead again. Very nice route

with David B
Didymus 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Nick
Rockmonkey1977 12/Jul/14 Lead
Circus 07/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Ross
afrosam 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Emily 22/Jun/14 2nd dog

Cool climb with great views! I only fell off on one section (getting up to the hand-traverse) but there were a couple of other parts I probably would have found prohibitively hard and scary to lead.

Trisha Murphy 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/14 -
Nick Russell 13/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead rpt
chrisclimber ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
cem 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Not worth 2 stars

Kirill 26/May/14 Lead β
Hidden 18/May/14 Lead rpt
chris85 17/May/14 Lead O/S
kieranbowen 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with Jonny, Ruth
Rebs 09/May/14 -
James_L88 03/May/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic climb.

UnkArl 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Nialllusby 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Iain bridges
leigh 16/Mar/14 Lead rpt

always nice and makes you think at top

with Shaun
Hidden 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Neil Tucker 05/Sep/13 Lead
with Richard Reynolds
Uberpussy 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S

nice warm up, top section crux but nothing out of grade

with Neil Tucker
Hidden 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Lazytraveller 24/Aug/13 Lead dog
hipyhop 24/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Will_Mac 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Cockman 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
3 Names 18/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Jul/13 TR
tobydunford 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Nick Russell 10/Jul/13 Lead rpt

warm up

with James
Poco Loco 10/Jul/13 Lead dog

Had a rest near the top.

with Nick R
Hidden 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 03/Jul/13 Lead β

Nice moves at the top. Led after Will on his draws

Hidden 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S
rbalmer 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Lindsay Worthy
DafSWMC 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Siwan
Hidden 22/Jun/13 Lead O/S
GrantB 22/Jun/13 Lead β
LittleEm 22/Jun/13 Lead dnf
Mike Goldthorp 04/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Quality route, great climbing at the top!

BoHeMlo 27/May/13 2nd dog
gripped01 19/May/13 Lead
with Jim Jarvis, Dave Tait
mallardhealhook 18/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead O/S
Aaron Lines 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 22/Sep/12 Lead rpt

Nice line, good views.

with Rob
The Ivanator 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Some nice moves on the upper section, but a bit vegetated least there were plenty of blackberries to snack on en route!

katherinesydney 08/Sep/12 2nd RP

Tried to lead first go but got spooked by the runout layback/slippy feet combo over a ledge...

Hidden 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S
J1_TOV 26/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Mick Riley 01/Jul/12 2nd dog
with Bob thomas
Dizz 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Really nice, although crux move somewhat harder for the short!!

with David B
jonleighton 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Matt250 06/Jun/12 Lead O/S
puppythedog 29/May/12 Lead O/S

Lovely route, becomes more interesting the higher you get, worth doing. Felt gentle for the grade but for a couple of moves.

with Gareth
jon_gill1 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
JWB 25/Mar/12 Lead β

Had just watched Jon climb it plus saw the picture in the guide book.

JamesBrowning 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Toby
Dean177 23/Mar/12 Lead
with Will Twigger
Fluffybunnyslippers 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Jo Pollard
Hannah Brading 04/Oct/11 2nd RP
demarcation86 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Paul
mikeshewring 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
rjshade 21/Aug/11 -
with Alastair Hamilton
Bates 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
brices 05/Aug/11 Lead O/S
wildrover220 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Royston Smith
Hidden 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
GarethHall 18/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Dax 16/Jun/11 Lead rpt

Sun was out = lovely warm up

with Nick Harms
matthewjames 08/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Nick Jones, Sarah Jane Barr, Chris Davis
givemetea 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
kierancooper 25/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/May/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/May/11 Lead O/S
SamStokes 15/May/11 Lead rpt
3 Names 14/May/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/May/11 Lead rpt
the rec 05/May/11 TR O/S

Good climb. The traverse and the final laybacks are the highlights.

with Darrell
Dax 05/May/11 Lead O/S

Great climb .. don't need to be strong to do this route, just look for the foot holds. Good start and then good top 1/2. Would give it 3 stars if it wasn't for the ledge @ 1/2 height. I'd say this was a route that by itself makes Ban-y-gor worth a visit.

with Ward
Hidden 16/Mar/11 -
mike lawrence? 16/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Colin
danJBA 20/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Has now been cleaned

Dave Toseland ??/2011 TR
with Dan, Fred
NickHarms ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
al99 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
martinazando 16/Oct/10 Lead β
disposition62 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
disposition62 16/Oct/10 TR
Brucifer 13/Sep/10 Lead rpt
tombeasley 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
d_meacher 02/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead β
cjsheps 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
jas128 27/Aug/10 Lead dog
martinp 08/Aug/10 TR
with Adam
AdamP 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Martin
zombie_pat 06/Aug/10 Lead dog

Fell at the crux as i commited to completely the wrong move and couldnt reverse it.

with Nick
suffolknick 06/Aug/10 Lead dog

Fluffed it right at the top - rookie error.

Hidden 24/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Christian Reynish 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with stu
gb05 29/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Gavin Cytlau
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
SamStokes 06/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 24/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
marcduhig 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Good layback on last section

with Andrew
Greg Pittam 06/Mar/10 Lead β
with Raff
fleapitfan ??/2010 Lead O/S
Billg 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Bob Brewer
richardr 30/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Better than it looks and deserves more traffic.

lukewilliams 29/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S
leigh 20/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Ed
chris sm 09/May/09 Lead O/S
with Paul Osborn
shyster boulder 22/Apr/09 Lead β
with alex harper
SamStokes 28/Mar/09 Lead rpt
SamStokes 22/Mar/09 Lead rpt
with Alex Harper
james.lane ??/2009 -
Hidden 08/Oct/08 TR dog
Harphead 08/Oct/08 Lead O/S


with Spicerman
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
just one more 19/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with tim b
Hidden 13/Sep/08 Lead
3 Names 06/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam 03/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bitmead
Hidden 21/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Dale ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with johny
Hidden ?/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/08 2nd dnf
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
emilyj 08/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Paul Robertson 19/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with Peter Shepherd
Hidden 10/Aug/07 Lead β
Clarky10 19/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Mike Broady
SamStokes 19/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Nice top section! It was slabby for Ban y Gor but fantastic climbing ledges could do with the ground force team to come and sort out.

shoulders 28/May/07 Lead
with PETE J, dai
Hidden 09/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Paz 17/Dec/06 Lead dog

Slipped off wet holds on the arete 1 move from the lower off, having missed a good part of the layback crack.

with PR
Urgles 12/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Retro bolted - used to be E1 5B. could be F6A?? worth taking a friend 1.5 for the tricky traverse near the top.

with Paul Robertson
Paul Robertson 12/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
megamonkeyman, Hidden, Hidden, drgrange, zimpara, jez_springall, Dassie, saz_b, poey50
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set