Muddy Waters** 6a
[Muddy Waters from the bottom, 3 kb]Nice clean groove-line left of the Head Sector overhangs. Climb to the terrace, then follow a groove to a horizontal break under a roof, step left and move up to finish via a flake-crack.

Ticklists: Orange Spot Lower Wye.

Photo: Muddy Waters from the bottom © treforsouthwell
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 204 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/15

Kimmo - 2nd dog - 26/Sep/15 with Paddy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/15

ez does it - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/15

rachelvlc - Lead - 12/Sep/15 with Gloria Lin

3 climbs in one
Gloria - Lead - 12/Sep/15 with rachelvlc

lewiz - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/15 with Yan Mao

Varied route, delicate traverse left before the finish. Remember to enjoy the view from the top.
Edward Kwong - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/15

Really nice climb with a few puzzling moves. Did take a small rest trying to figure out how to get onto the traverse but otherwise clean.
treforsouthwell - Lead β - 09/Sep/15

Stickle Tarn - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/15

Matt1234 - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/15

Wendy Watthews - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/15 with Illya, Simon, pascal

Not very good - don't understand how this is rated as a classic, even by ban-y-gor standards.
lukehodson - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/15 with Charlotte

Clean, was going for the on-sight but one of my climbing partners just wont stop talking - a constant stream of on-sight busting beta. Seems to have seen some traffic this summer, is clean and the finish is lovely. Solid 6a!
millionpoundhat - Lead β - 08/Aug/15

Hidden - Lead - 02/Aug/15

Ollie B - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/15 with M. Wright

TomJ - Lead β - 25/Jul/15 with Kuang

Lovely climb 2 stars all day long
jjsk8a - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/15

Nice! Gets the 6a tick at the top
Phil Murray - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/15 with Steve Wright

joshdownham23 - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/15

Route 3 of Wye Valley Tour Hard if under 6ft I would say.
Ian Stirrups - Lead - 19/Jun/15 with Sue

3 Names - Lead rpt - 10/Jun/15 with Joel

Hidden - TR O/S - 30/May/15

Robnort - Lead O/S - 30/May/15 with paul clauston

Finally! Makes me wonder what the fuss was about on my previous assaults on this: I just did all of it, quite smoothly. Really fun and very pleasing to tick this off at last. I think my balance is improving, or something. Found so many static positions that I'm sure I hadn't achieved previously.
Emily - Lead RP - 25/May/15 with Steve

radams2000 - Lead O/S - 25/May/15

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/15

SDM - Lead O/S - 23/May/15 with Michael

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/15

Hidden - Lead β - 21/May/15

Guidebook says 20m but our 40m rope didn't get me back to terra firma so beware! Really good route, the final 5 meters gains it the stars.
wjcdean - Lead O/S - 17/May/15 with Jack Ottaway, Trevers

Shambles with the ropes
Trevers - 2nd dog - 16/May/15 with jeottaway, wjcdean

3 Names - Lead rpt - 16/May/15 with Sumee Holloway

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/15

Billg - Lead rpt - 24/Apr/15 with Dan Cooke

steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/15 with Ben Darby

It's a shame that a good climb like this could be a great one if it got more traffic. There's some really good climbing in between mud and brambles. Get on it people. It's good.
luke glaister - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/15 with RobinJones, Jimmysmith1577

RobinJones - 2nd O/S - 07/Mar/15 with Luke Glaister, Jimmy Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2015

Hidden - 2015

Tomas Frost - 2015

Lazytraveller - Lead - 26/Oct/14 with Chloe Mead

Bit dusty but varied climbing
badgerjockey - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/14 with Rich/Kuang

simonpearson - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/14 with Andy Brice

Legs - Lead β - 20/Aug/14 with Luke Warran

Tom Brierley Gore - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/14 with Shijing Hu

A little vegetated and average for first half but top section is ace.
Stanners - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/14 with Alkis, Andy G, Jack Bradbrook

Nick Russell - Lead rpt - 27/Jul/14

Ugh. Hoping to get this cleanly this time, instead fell off repeatedly in exactly the same place as before and took even longer to figure it out. However, I think the thing I ended up doing on that hard bit might have been better than what I worked out last time?
Emily - TR dog - 27/Jul/14 with James, Nick

Climbed the top after escaping off the route next door. Lead again. Very nice route
Cheese Monkey - Lead β - 18/Jul/14 with David B

Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Nick

Rockmonkey1977 - Lead - 12/Jul/14

Circus - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/14 with Ross

afrosam - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Trisha Murphy

Cool climb with great views! I only fell off on one section (getting up to the hand-traverse) but there were a couple of other parts I probably would have found prohibitively hard and scary to lead.
Emily - 2nd dog - 22/Jun/14

Trisha Murphy - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Sam Robinson

Hidden - 15/Jun/14

Nick Russell - Lead rpt - 13/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/14

chrisclimber - Lead O/S - Jun/14

Not worth 2 stars
cem - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with Kirill Spiridonov

Kirill - Lead β - 26/May/14 with Charles Moreton

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/May/14

chris85 - Lead O/S - 17/May/14

kieranbowen - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with Jonny, Ruth

Rebs - 09/May/14

Fantastic climb.
James_L88 - Lead O/S - 03/May/14 with Karl Gregory

UnkArl - Lead O/S - 03/May/14 with James Long

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/14

Nialllusby - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14 with Iain bridges

always nice and makes you think at top
leigh - Lead rpt - 16/Mar/14 with Shaun

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13

Neil Tucker - Lead - 05/Sep/13 with Richard Reynolds

nice warm up, top section crux but nothing out of grade
Uberpussy - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/13 with Neil Tucker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13

Lazytraveller - Lead dog - 24/Aug/13 with Tom Luff

hipyhop - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/13 with LazyTraveller

Will_Mac - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/13 with Sam Cockman

Cockman - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/13 with Will Macleod

3 Names - Lead rpt - 18/Jul/13

Hidden - TR - 14/Jul/13

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Kirsty Kerr

warm up
Nick Russell - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/13 with James

Had a rest near the top.
Poco Loco - Lead dog - 10/Jul/13 with Nick R

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/13

Nice moves at the top. Led after Will on his draws
Nick Russell - Lead β - 03/Jul/13 with Will Attridge

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/13

rbalmer - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Lindsay Worthy

DafSWMC - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Siwan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/13

GrantB - Lead β - 22/Jun/13 with Alpha Red

LittleEm - Lead dnf - 22/Jun/13

Quality route, great climbing at the top!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/13 with Cailean Harker

BoHeMlo - 2nd dog - 27/May/13

gripped01 - Lead - 19/May/13 with Jim Jarvis, Dave Tait

mallardhealhook - Lead O/S - 18/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/13

Aaron Lines - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/13 with frank ramsay

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2013

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12

Nice line, good views.
The Ivanator - Lead rpt - 22/Sep/12 with Rob

Some nice moves on the upper section, but a bit vegetated least there were plenty of blackberries to snack on en route!
The Ivanator - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Katherine, Sean

Tried to lead first go but got spooked by the runout layback/slippy feet combo over a ledge...
katherinesydney - 2nd RP - 08/Sep/12 with ivan bicknell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12

J1_TOV - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/12

Mick Riley - 2nd dog - 01/Jul/12 with Bob thomas

Really nice, although crux move somewhat harder for the short!!
Dizz - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/12 with David B

jonleighton - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/12

Matt250 - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/12

Lovely route, becomes more interesting the higher you get, worth doing. Felt gentle for the grade but for a couple of moves.
puppythedog - Lead O/S - 29/May/12 with Gareth

jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with john beardmore

Had just watched Jon climb it plus saw the picture in the guide book.
JWB - Lead β - 25/Mar/12 with Jon Gill

JamesBrowning - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Toby

Dean177 - Lead - 23/Mar/12 with Will Twigger

Fluffybunnyslippers - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Jo Pollard

Hannah Brading - 2nd RP - 04/Oct/11 with Cailean Harker

demarcation86 - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Paul

mikeshewring - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11

rjshade - 21/Aug/11 with Alastair Hamilton

Bates - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11

brices - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/11

wildrover220 - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Royston Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11

GarethHall - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/11 with Patrick Goodwin

Sun was out = lovely warm up
Dax - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/11 with Nick Harms

matthewjames - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/11 with Nick Jones, Sarah Jane Barr, Chris Davis

givemetea - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Hannah Heywood

kierancooper - Lead O/S - 25/May/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/May/11

SamStokes - Lead rpt - 15/May/11 with Ben Matthews

3 Names - Lead rpt - 14/May/11 with Sumee Holloway

Hidden - Lead rpt - 08/May/11

Good climb. The traverse and the final laybacks are the highlights.
the rec - TR O/S - 05/May/11 with Darrell

Great climb .. don't need to be strong to do this route, just look for the foot holds. Good start and then good top 1/2. Would give it 3 stars if it wasn't for the ledge @ 1/2 height. I'd say this was a route that by itself makes Ban-y-gor worth a visit.
Dax - Lead O/S - 05/May/11 with Ward

Hidden - 16/Mar/11

mike lawrence? - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/11 with Colin

Has now been cleaned
danJBA - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/11 with Joe Fraser

Dave Toseland - TR - 2011 with Dan, Fred

NickHarms - 2011 with Darrell Russell

Hidden - 2011

al99 - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Martina Zandonella

martinazando - Lead β - 16/Oct/10 with Al Benson

disposition62 - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

disposition62 - TR - 16/Oct/10

Brucifer - Lead rpt - 13/Sep/10 with alan rosier

tombeasley - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10

d_meacher - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/10 with Trisha Murphy

Hidden - Lead β - 27/Aug/10

cjsheps - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/10

jas128 - Lead dog - 27/Aug/10

martinp - TR - 08/Aug/10 with Adam

AdamP - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Martin

Fell at the crux as i commited to completely the wrong move and couldnt reverse it.
zombie_pat - Lead dog - 06/Aug/10 with Nick

Fluffed it right at the top - rookie error.
suffolknick - Lead dog - 06/Aug/10 with Rob Patterson

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/10

Christian Reynish - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10 with stu

gb05 - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/10 with Gavin Cytlau

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10

SamStokes - Lead rpt - 06/Jun/10 with Ben Matthews

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/10

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 24/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10

Good layback on last section
marcduhig - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/10 with Andrew

Greg Pittam - Lead β - 06/Mar/10 with Raff

fleapitfan - Lead O/S - 2010

Billg - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Bob Brewer

Better than it looks and deserves more traffic.
richardr - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/09

lukewilliams - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09

leigh - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/09 with Ed

chris sm - Lead O/S - 09/May/09 with Paul Osborn

shyster boulder - Lead β - 22/Apr/09 with alex harper

SamStokes - Lead rpt - 28/Mar/09 with Ben Matthews

SamStokes - Lead rpt - 22/Mar/09 with Alex Harper

james.lane - 2009

Hidden - TR dog - 08/Oct/08

Harphead - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/08 with Spicerman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08

just one more - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/08 with tim b

Hidden - Lead - 13/Sep/08

3 Names - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/08 with Sumee Holloway

Greg Pittam - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/08 with Andrew Bitmead

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/08

Dale - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with johny

Hidden - 2nd O/S - May/08

Hidden - 2nd dnf - May/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

emilyj - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Samuel Stokes

Paul Robertson - Lead rpt - 19/Aug/07 with Peter Shepherd

Hidden - Lead β - 10/Aug/07

Clarky10 - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/07 with Mike Broady

Nice top section! It was slabby for Ban y Gor but fantastic climbing ledges could do with the ground force team to come and sort out.
SamStokes - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/07 with Ben Matthews

shoulders - Lead - 28/May/07 with PETE J, dai

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/07

Slipped off wet holds on the arete 1 move from the lower off, having missed a good part of the layback crack.
Paz - Lead dog - 17/Dec/06 with PR

Retro bolted - used to be E1 5B. could be F6A?? worth taking a friend 1.5 for the tricky traverse near the top.
Urgles - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/06 with Paul Robertson

Paul Robertson - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/06 with Pylon King

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
WillAndrew, drgrange, zimpara, jez_springall, Dassie, saz_b, poey50

Total votes cast 68
hard 6a+0 of 34
6a+0 of 34
easy 6a+0 of 34
hard 6a2 of 34
6a17 of 34
easy 6a15 of 34
hard 5c0 of 34
5c0 of 34
easy 5c0 of 34
3 Stars3 of 34
2 Stars18 of 34
1 Star9 of 34
0 Stars4 of 34
Bag of .....0 of 34
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP