Verdon Gorge > Gorges du Verdon >
 
Pichenibule*** 7b+

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[Pichenibule, 2 kb]11 pitches. 1) 5+, 2) 6a, 3) 6a, 4) 5+, 5) 5, 6) 5+, 7) 6a+, 8) 6c+, 9) 5+, 10) A0/6a (7c), 11) 6a. Perhaps the archetypical Verdon experience, long and committing, on superb rock and with breathtaking positions. The bottom four pitches are often avoided by starting from the Jardin des Écureuils at the base of the Dalles Grises abseils. If starting from the bottom use the Ticket Danger abseils to reach the foot of Gwendal then walk 80m to the right to locate the start at a pillar under the centre of an arching roof. The first four pitches DO NOT appear on a topo. The second pitch traverses out right to skirt the overhangs and the 11th pitch is hard 7c if done free, though it can be easily aided. The final 'easy' pitch has spaced gear and has caused a few wobblers over the years! Photo next page. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Pichenibule © Alan Carne unless stated
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 27 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

From the very bottom of the gorge. First 4 pitches were much harder than the grades given (particularly P3+4). At the Jadins we bailed onto Les Dalles Grises (which we jogged up in 2hours!). Took us 4 hours to get up the first 4 pitches... Too hot, too hard. P1 - Kat P2,3,4 - Me (dogged P3) Psyched to go back and try from the Jardins though - glutton for punishment!
UnkArl - AltLd dnf - 17/Oct/13 with Kat

KatDay - AltLd - 17/Oct/13 with Karl

Moved together on 1st 7 pitches, aided the 7b+ pitch (in the rain)
feilx - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/13 with Andy L

Aid the hard pitch
La Mont - AltLd β - 15/Oct/13 with Felix

Managed to get through the 6c+ but fluffed the pitch higher up. Belay in wrong place, ran out of draws and couldn't move for drag. Pulled on draws through the 7c also
stuart34 - AltLd dog - 13/Oct/13 with Kim Ladiges

Led even pitches, including the 6c+ crux. Amazing route! Aided the 7c (obviously).
Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/13 with Rachel Slater

Odd pitches. Nice route.
Rachel Slater - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/13 with Tom Livingstone

Climbed scary pitches from bottom of the gorge to the Jardin, then bailed onto Dalles Grises as it was too hot.
ambrooker - 2nd dog - 19/Sep/13 with Tom

Bottom four pitches and then bailed due to heat. First few pitches are on very old bolts at times and the third and fourth pitches make an exciting rising traverse
chiverstom - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/13 with Alice

Toby Dunn - AltLd - Sep/13 with Eric Hildrew

Aided 7c pitch, clean every other pitch
Patrick Hill - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/13 with Derek, olly12344

Aided 7c pitch
olly12344 - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/13 with Patrick Hill

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 10/May/13

Goucho - Oct/12

Aided 7c pitch, lead 6c+
centurion05 - AltLd - May/12 with Calum

Possibly the hardest 6c+ pitch ever! fell off sooo many times, but really nice climbing, on really nice rock!
hetaher - AltLd dog - 07/Sep/11 with Jonny Baker

Hidden - Apr/11

Hidden - 2011

Abbed in to terrace. Had a fall on the 6c+ pitch then we both aided the short section of 7b+
Morgan Woods - AltLd - 27/Jun/07 with Alan Carney

K1 - 1998

Scott_vzr - 12/Sep/92

Duncan I - Jun/91 with Mike Long

Hidden - Lead dog - 1990

andy gittins - 1986

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Aug/82

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Aug/81

The complete route from the base of the gorge, aid used on top pitches.
Mark Kemball - AltLd - Sep/80

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
samrad, UnkArl, stuart34, Jake Shaw, prometheus

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Style of ascent

Lead2 of 27 (7.4%)
Followed2 of 27 (7.4%)
Alt Leads16 of 27 (59.3%)
Unknown7 of 27 (25.9%)

'Climbed'14 of 27 (51.9%)
clean O/S6 of 27 (22.2%)
clean β1 of 27 (3.7%)
dogged4 of 27 (14.8%)
dnf2 of 27 (7.4%)