From the middle of the wall on the right of Sex and Casual Ties, move up to a pocket and large hold. Crux move through to small pockets. Friable finish

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Nesscliffe: Marlene Face routes, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Ramon Marin 13/Sep Lead RP

It was filthy today, cleaned, showed the moves to Tom. Then send it next go

Tom le fanu
Dave Turnbull, BMC 13/Sep Lead RP

TR first then fine. Didn't use thread (definitely be tricky to place o/s), or top peg.

Hidden 13/Sep 2nd
Hidden 16/Aug TR dog
Davecapewell 23/Jul TR dog
Mathew, Matt
ADConway 02/Jun TR dnf
Tom.Priestley 21/May TR rpt

Jump is still harrowing as ever, get a mate to abseil and clean if it going for the onsight. The

gazhbo 26/Apr Lead β

On Orange's gear. One pad mono three moves off the ground. Warm up your finger first.

Ramon Marin 11/Apr Lead rpt
dave pickford
Ramon Marin 23/Oct/14 Lead RP

Pretty late in the season, fairly wet and crumbly, but send after a toprope. The mono move was evil and i think pulled a tendon, but rock season is over for me so I didn't really care.

viki harvey
Adam_42 22/Jun/14 Lead RP

Beta'd up to the eyeballs but still a big moment for me. First headpoint and of something pretty hard. Really pleased!

drysori 21/Jun/14 Lead RP
anguskille 13/Jun/14 Lead RP

not as go-ey as i thought on the lead it would be, but looking at my logbook i've done it before!

alaan 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/14 2nd rpt
Adam Booth 16/May/14 Lead RP

Think I've done my finger pulley on the mono move :-(

scott quinn 05/May/14 Lead RP

Awesome climbing chuffed to have lead it clean considering I didnt manage a clean tr - pre placed thread still a faff on abb! I could do the upper crux static and im not very tall, still decided to jump on the lead.

Hidden 04/May/14 Lead β
morganator 04/May/14 Lead dog

Tricky stretch for the break then much sandiness but easier. 2 falls before latching the stretch 3rd go.

Dan Arkle
Tom.Priestley 03/May/14 TR dog
PeteWilson 17/Apr/14 2nd

tough warm up, but cool route, will come back to lead this one

John P, Andi T, Dave
Hidden 31/Aug/13 Lead RP
mark20 25/Aug/13 Lead β
Hidden 24/Jun/13 TR dog
Hidden 24/Jun/13 TR dog
Michael Allday 09/Jun/13 Lead β
luke384 06/Apr/13 Lead RP

had quick topy on it, then lead it. sick ass moves all way very snady top. great route!

Ryan mcconnell
sgl0jd ?/Mar/13 Lead RP
jamestaylor92 13/Jan/13 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2013 Lead RP
alek 11/Aug/12 TR dog
Marti999 08/Aug/12 Lead RP
nathanlee 28/Jul/12 Lead β

Watched people top rope it during the day. Felt steady.

switch 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Mark Riley 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

1st trad lead of the year! Should have read up about the thread being a sod to place on lead, didn't have spare energy so wobbled my way up without.

Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead RP
najki_2000 01/Jul/12 TR dog

the mono crux is still easier than the top slap for the slopey sandy break - much easier for taller

davidliu 01/Jul/12 Lead RP

Gear in place

Mike Goldthorp 05/Jun/12 Lead β

Abseiled down it to give it a clean and place the thread, then booshed it. Two big awesome crux moves warrant 6b but with good gear and rests in between maybe only E4...

Giles, Cailean Harker, Ben Norman
Cailean Harker 05/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Luke Owens 29/May/12 TR dog

Did all the moves. Got the upper crux staticly which is way better. Felt easier than "Jump"

Leon Bowen
Mattlamb90 29/May/12 TR dog
Michael Allday 10/Mar/12 TR O/S
rodney greenfield
Ross.Cooper 28/Oct/11 TR dog

Very Dynamic

Hidden 04/Oct/11 TR O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Jon Garside 30/Jul/11 Lead β
Adam Booth 02/Jul/11 TR rpt
Ed Booth 02/Jul/11 TR
thetradlad 02/Jun/11 TR dog

definitely workable! some great jugs just when needed. Very almost got clean

Adam Booth 19/May/11 TR O/S

Looking forward to leading this one...

Hidden 19/May/11 TR dog
Hidden 01/May/11 TR β
phil64 ??/2011 -
frost 18/Sep/10 2nd dog
Hidden 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 01/Sep/10 Lead β

Was told the thread was desparate to place on lead, so abbed it to find it quite easy to place as the thread is wide. Tried not to look at moves but enevitably saw holds especially in the lower reaches. Found move by peg hard to gain the sandy break.

anguskille 16/Aug/10 Lead RP

E4 isn't it? pretty nice climbing most of it, but a bit of a two-move wonder, but its a nice route to test your strength a bit

Rich Kirby 08/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Deserves 3 stars. If you can find and place the totally miss-able thread - E4, without E5.

monsteratt 26/Jun/10 2nd dog
Morgan Strong Will
MorganPreece 26/Jun/10 Lead dog

Tryed onsight but fell off the last hard move, real sandy! lovely moves lower down like the mono! great route!

dominic lee 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead
Jon Read 05/Jun/10 2nd

Fell off! Did the reach grow in a week??

Jon Read 31/May/10 Lead β

With Andi's gear in place. Finished direct.

andi turner 31/May/10 Lead O/S

Nice. Thought more E4 6a, but happy to take the E5 tick :o)

Jon Read
MikeYouCanClimb 13/Jun/09 Lead RP
lukea 10/May/09 TR rpt
phil64 ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Gus ??/2009 Lead β
adam long, Rob Clifton
Hidden ?/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/08 TR dog
smallerrich 28/Jul/08 Lead RP

I love the moves on this climb, good protection as well.

Will Nicholls
Ed Booth ?/Oct/07 Lead RP

I had tried this route on top rope a while back but never did it one. After belaying Ben do it and a few more years of getting better, i just went for it anyway. Pretty soft E5. Maybe tough E4. One punchy move with a mono. Best thread at Nesscliffe if you find it . . .

Ben Heason
Hidden 08/Sep/07 Lead β
Hidden ?/May/07 Lead O/S
Martin Cleaver ??/2007 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Aug/06 TR
Hidden ??/2005 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2001 Lead RP
smudge 07/Aug/98 TR O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/95 TR RP
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 28
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set