Cones and Current** E5 6b
[preparing for the dyno, 2 kb]From the middle of the wall on the right of Sex and Casual Ties, move up to a pocket and large hold. Crux move through to small pockets. Friable finish

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Nesscliffe: Marlene Face routes.

Photo: preparing for the dyno © scott quinn
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 73 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

Pretty late in the season, fairly wet and crumbly, but send after a toprope. The mono move was evil and i think pulled a tendon, but rock season is over for me so I didn't really care.
Ramon Marin - Lead RP - 23/Oct/14 with viki harvey

Beta'd up to the eyeballs but still a big moment for me. First headpoint and of something pretty hard. Really pleased!
Adam_42 - Lead RP - 22/Jun/14 with Wil

drysori - Lead RP - 21/Jun/14

not as go-ey as i thought on the lead it would be, but looking at my logbook i've done it before!
anguskille - Lead RP - 13/Jun/14 with Rob

alaan - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Ally

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 01/Jun/14

Think I've done my finger pulley on the mono move :-(
Adam Booth - Lead RP - 16/May/14 with Rob Ierson, Tim Evans

Awesome climbing chuffed to have lead it clean considering I didnt manage a clean tr - pre placed thread still a faff on abb! I could do the upper crux static and im not very tall, still decided to jump on the lead.
scott quinn - Lead RP - 05/May/14

Hidden - Lead β - 04/May/14

Tricky stretch for the break then much sandiness but easier. 2 falls before latching the stretch 3rd go.
morganator - Lead dog - 04/May/14 with Dan Arkle

Tom.Priestley - TR dog - 03/May/14 with Scott Quinn

tough warm up, but cool route, will come back to lead this one
PeteWilson - 2nd - 17/Apr/14 with John P, Andi T, Dave

After a couple of short sessions and a couple of falls from the top crux! Lovely moves and good gear!
james.slater - Lead RP - 31/Aug/13 with Simon Slater

mark20 - Lead β - 25/Aug/13

Hidden - TR dog - 24/Jun/13

Hidden - TR dog - 24/Jun/13

Michael Allday - Lead β - 09/Jun/13 with Bruce Houston

had quick topy on it, then lead it. sick ass moves all way very snady top. great route!
luke384 - Lead RP - 06/Apr/13 with Ryan mcconnell

sgl0jd - Lead RP - Mar/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Jan/13

2nd Attempt.
Max Lowry - Lead RP - 2013 with Keri Vegas

alek - TR dog - 11/Aug/12 with Mike Grant

Marti999 - Lead RP - 08/Aug/12 with Debbie

Watched people top rope it during the day. Felt steady.
nathanlee - Lead β - 28/Jul/12 with Dom Lee

switch - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Mark Riley

1st trad lead of the year! Should have read up about the thread being a sod to place on lead, didn't have spare energy so wobbled my way up without.
Mark Riley - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Simon Witcher

Hidden - Lead RP - 01/Jul/12

the mono crux is still easier than the top slap for the slopey sandy break - much easier for taller
najki_2000 - TR dog - 01/Jul/12

Gear in place
davidliu - Lead RP - 01/Jul/12 with Dave Rose

Abseiled down it to give it a clean and place the thread, then booshed it. Two big awesome crux moves warrant 6b but with good gear and rests in between maybe only E4...
Mike Goldthorp - Lead β - 05/Jun/12 with Giles, Cailean Harker, Ben Norman

Cailean Harker - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/12

Did all the moves. Got the upper crux staticly which is way better. Felt easier than "Jump"
Luke Owens - TR dog - 29/May/12 with Leon Bowen

Mattlamb90 - TR dog - 29/May/12 with Luke Owens

Michael Allday - TR O/S - 10/Mar/12 with rodney greenfield

Very Dynamic
Ross.Cooper - TR dog - 28/Oct/11 with Jake Lodge

Hidden - TR O/S - 04/Oct/11

Jordan - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Naomi Buys

Jon Garside - Lead β - 30/Jul/11

Adam Booth - TR rpt - 02/Jul/11 with Tim Evans, Roel, Ed Booth

Ed Booth - TR - 02/Jul/11 with Adam Booth

definitely workable! some great jugs just when needed. Very almost got clean
thetradlad - TR dog - 02/Jun/11 with Harry Thorpe

Looking forward to leading this one...
Adam Booth - TR O/S - 19/May/11 with Tim Evans

Hidden - TR dog - 19/May/11

Hidden - TR β - 01/May/11

phil64 - 2011

frost - 2nd dog - 18/Sep/10 with Rob

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10

Was told the thread was desparate to place on lead, so abbed it to find it quite easy to place as the thread is wide. Tried not to look at moves but enevitably saw holds especially in the lower reaches. Found move by peg hard to gain the sandy break.
Alex Mason - Lead β - 01/Sep/10 with Rich Cannell, Mikey G

E4 isn't it? pretty nice climbing most of it, but a bit of a two-move wonder, but its a nice route to test your strength a bit
anguskille - Lead RP - 16/Aug/10 with Dave

Deserves 3 stars. If you can find and place the totally miss-able thread - E4, without E5.
Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/10 with Nick Bullock

monsteratt - 2nd dog - 26/Jun/10 with Morgan Strong Will

Tryed onsight but fell off the last hard move, real sandy! lovely moves lower down like the mono! great route!
MorganPreece - Lead dog - 26/Jun/10 with Will

dominic lee - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with nathan lee

Tried short mans beta on 5-6-10,fluffed it.2 pissed off to try again.did it this time 1st go e4 6a would be closer.
mark s - Lead - 20/Jun/10 with jon read

Fell off! Did the reach grow in a week??
Jon Read - 2nd - 05/Jun/10 with andi turner

With Andi's gear in place. Finished direct.
Jon Read - Lead β - 31/May/10 with andi turner

Nice. Thought more E4 6a, but happy to take the E5 tick :o)
andi turner - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Jon Read

MikeYouCanClimb - Lead RP - 13/Jun/09 with Patrick

lukea - TR rpt - 10/May/09 with Al

phil64 - Lead O/S - Apr/09

Gus - Lead β - 2009 with adam long, Rob Clifton

Hidden - Lead O/S - Nov/08

Hidden - TR dog - Oct/08

I love the moves on this climb, good protection as well.
smallerrich - Lead RP - 28/Jul/08 with Will Nicholls

I had tried this route on top rope a while back but never did it one. After belaying Ben do it and a few more years of getting better, i just went for it anyway. Pretty soft E5. Maybe tough E4. One punchy move with a mono. Best thread at Nesscliffe if you find it . . .
Ed Booth - Lead RP - Oct/07 with Ben Heason

Hidden - Lead β - 08/Sep/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/07

Martin Cleaver - Lead RP - 2007

Hidden - TR - Aug/06

Hidden - Lead RP - 2005

Hidden - Lead RP - 2001

smudge - TR O/S - 07/Aug/98

Hidden - TR RP - 27/Jun/95

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ashtond6, Joe Innes, BRoe, MarkRoe, The Pylon King, AndyM-LVB, abrom, smudge, fennerz

Voting
Total votes cast 74
hard E60 of 25
E60 of 25
easy E61 of 25
hard E50 of 25
E511 of 25
easy E56 of 25
hard E47 of 25
E40 of 25
easy E40 of 25
hard 6c0 of 25
6c0 of 25
easy 6c1 of 25
hard 6b0 of 25
6b5 of 25
easy 6b14 of 25
hard 6a5 of 25
6a0 of 25
easy 6a0 of 25
3 Stars14 of 24
2 Stars10 of 24
1 Star0 of 24
0 Stars0 of 24
Bag of .....0 of 24
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Style of ascent

Lead
Followed
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Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean RP
dogged