Rockfax Description
A fine little route, varied, sustained and with an exiting finish. Climb the groove then traverse right to the arete. The moves to pass this are unlikely but soon lead to the final juggy crack. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide), Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

Nick1812P 25/Oct Lead O/S
with Tom A
Teappleby 25/Oct 2nd
joemallia 02/Oct 2nd rpt
iainsanderson 27/Sep Lead O/S
with John Hayes
Sam Simpson 22/Sep Solo O/S
with Dave Turnbull
LakesWinter 13/Sep 2nd rpt
with Al, AD
Tony Holdsworth 11/Sep Lead O/S
with Rupert Creed
kingborris 05/Sep Lead O/S
Tanya Savage 29/Aug 2nd

Absolutely wild. OK up to hand traverse but gibbered on the arÍte and the top wall

Neil Pacey 29/Aug Lead O/S

Followed the BMC route and not the Rockfall description. Brilliant route well worth three stars and felt more VS 4c.

Hidden 27/Aug 2nd O/S
GregBristol 27/Aug Lead

In the one rain shower of the evening. Dispute over the route too, went under the nose in the end.

with John Hillman, Nina
Hidden 16/Aug Lead O/S
Robs_Uren 15/Aug Lead dog
with Luke Von Freeden
Hidden 09/Aug AltLd
CaelanB 03/Aug Solo O/S
mike8331 25/Jul Lead
heywoodj 22/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul 2nd
Hidden 19/Jul 2nd
Hidden 18/Jul Lead O/S
bullwinkle 18/Jul 2nd rpt
with Bart
CraigOsborne 27/Jun Lead O/S
WayneB 27/Jun TR O/S
jshields 24/Jun 2nd

Previous solo early '90s.

with Graham Jones, Andy Neath
Andrew Abraham 21/Jun Lead O/S


with Paul Deane
MYox 07/Jun Lead O/S
with Jon
jonhowson 07/Jun 2nd O/S
with Mark
magik_bob 30/May Lead
ColdAndWet 30/May 2nd
with Joe Farnell
Murilo Lessa 30/May 2nd O/S
with Alex Desborough
dj_brigham05 27/May Lead O/S
with Grant Harris
mike8331 23/May 2nd
soph 21/May Solo O/S
with Tony Stone
morganator 21/May Solo O/S
Hidden 10/May 2nd
Hidden 10/May 2nd rpt
Chris M 10/May AltLd
kp64zl ?/May 2nd
with Julian M
GAHarris ?/May 2nd
stp 05/Apr Solo O/S
with Dave T
Dave Turnbull, BMC 21/Mar Solo
Canyak ??/2015 -
keith leonard ??/2015 -
ralphio 04/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Great climb and positions for a VS. Was having a bit of a nervous day so think I found it harder than it was.

with Nik
Hidden 01/Nov/14 AltLd
Wayne S 12/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Dale
D Berry 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Very good. Varied and quite sustained.

with Wayne S
sparkass 13/Sep/14 Solo O/S

100 IAD No. 36

leathers 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Simon
Hidden 30/Aug/14 -
Boy 19/Aug/14 Solo
Simon Caldwell 05/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Took the line described in the BMC guide - rather than following the crack in the middle we traversed right then made difficult moves up the arete and wall to gain the finishing crack. Definitely tough VS 4c this way and worth every one of its 3 stars.

with Carmen
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
keitht ?/Jul/14 Lead
with Dave Lomas
Tom Dent 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Mark1800 22/Jun/14 Lead β
Darrell Read 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Adam Gayton
john max 31/May/14 2nd
john_ni 31/May/14 Lead rpt
dannyboy83 26/May/14 Solo O/S
Dave Heaton 05/May/14 Lead
with Stu Gaughan
Hidden 05/May/14 2nd
Hidden 05/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead β
julesmckim 27/Apr/14 2nd
catblack 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S

First trad route in 9 months, was a little scared! followed the line in rockfax and went up the diagonal groove, but it seems you are supposed to traverse underneath it? Thought that groove felt a bit tricky for 4b

with tim, beka
Hidden 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
mhawk 08/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Alfie Conn ??/2014 -
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
cragtyke 06/Oct/13 Lead
with john g, glenn
GlennWatson 06/Oct/13 2nd
with John Ganley, John Burns
Pete Pozman 26/Sep/13 Lead O/S

A bit nervy. Felt sure I'd be laybacking the sinker crack but counter-intuitively I achieved the stance on the arete and it fell into place. The flying 5a finish beckoned but the regular finish was quite exciting enough for today!

with John Byrne
john_ni 24/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with David Brown (PCC)
Chris Manasseh 22/Sep/13 Lead
with John Armstrong
jvarmstrong 22/Sep/13 2nd
with Chris
Chris Craggs 01/Sep/13 2nd

Excellent. Tricky move to access right-hand side of the arete.

with Martin Veale
deacondeacon 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Couldn't resist finishing up the steep arete.

Paul Hy 14/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Rob S
gingermike1 29/Jun/13 Lead

Easy up to traverse - sauntered to right around arete - and then built a maze of protection that produced rope drag that felt like I was dragging a car. Hung around for a while and then found last moves easy - next time trust the feet and keep moving - great climb!

Hidden 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
tobydunford 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
RalphC 01/Jun/13 2nd
with Ali
domskezz 16/May/13 Solo

So good I did it twice.

dr_botnik 02/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Paul, Phil Taylor
dr_botnik ??/2013 Lead rpt
Mattrock1711 27/Oct/12 2nd O/S
danoflynn 21/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Oct/12 2nd
Andrew Barker 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Oct/12 2nd
Jules Lane 14/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Great climb, it's got it all, building to a great finale. Paul started on it placed most of the gear, but didn't quite have the fuel to finish, so I got to lead the good bit at the end. Cool route.

with Mynydd Paul Justin
Hidden 14/Oct/12 2nd
Gabe Oliver 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
George Killaspy 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Louise
Alex@home 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S

best route of the 36. every move was a pleasure

Rob84 15/Jul/12 2nd rpt
with Sam Loveday
Hidden 15/Jul/12 AltLd rpt
sgl 15/Jul/12 Lead
with Rob
Ben Wolstenholme ?/Jul/12 -
tsjx 10/Jun/12 2nd
with Bruce
Whealiebob 18/May/12 Lead O/S

Not too hard, unless you're stupid and go up the HVS crack rather than round the corner!! Must read guidebook before setting off.

Ben_Bullbridge 18/May/12 2nd O/S
with Milne, Dave
max_chan 03/May/12 2nd rpt
with Andy Prichard
Hidden 03/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/12 2nd dog
freyja 15/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with Rob
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Mar/12 2nd
Dibdawg 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Mark Sheridan
Baggie ??/2012 2nd β
Hidden ??/2012 -
adie84 ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 2nd
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead
Hidden 01/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 02/Oct/11 2nd O/S
staceyjg 02/Oct/11 2nd O/S
minaturechris 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Not as easy as it looks from the ground. Good diverse route though, ledges from the ground with a fingery flake to a slab with a hand traverse and an interesting move around the arete to finish up the steeper juggy wall.

with Stacey
hailtryfan ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
mountaingoatgirl 30/Sep/11 Lead O/S


with Jeronimo
buxtoncoffeelover 28/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden 07/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Barry D 03/Sep/11 Lead

Nice climb,varied with some good moves.

with Derek, Paul J
Hidden 03/Sep/11 2nd
John Brayshaw 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Terrific route

with Chris
chris skipton 14/Aug/11 2nd
LakesWinter 07/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Very good.

with Phil B
al123 06/Aug/11 Solo O/S
cragtyke 31/Jul/11 Lead
with john g
alexrankine30 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with mark, sam
shaky2 15/Jul/11 Lead
Chris M 15/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/11 2nd O/S
glennofsheff 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Terrific climb . Not sure i took the correct line maybe used part of the direct route . Hard work , great fun .

howlingbaboon 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden 01/Jul/11 Lead
SteWatkins ?/Jul/11 -
olive 26/Jun/11 2nd
with Jade Jauquet
David Bird 03/May/11 2nd O/S
with LauraG, AliB
alisterrobbird 01/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/11 2nd
David Kay 22/Apr/11 Lead

Pete tried the lead but wasn't feeling it for the move around the arete. He lowered off and I went up re-clipping his gear. I think he was a bit gutted when he came up on second that he didn't commit to the move :)

Bex_M 10/Apr/11 2nd
with Dale, Duncan Dunbar
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead
nick ferro 02/Apr/11 -
pwilkie 02/Apr/11 2nd β
with nick ferro
pwilkie 02/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Could not work out how to do the top part before you swing around the arete. Needed to be stronger and cleverer.

with nick ferro
Guy Wilson 18/Mar/11 -
with Gavin Moy
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
APuddy 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Oct/10 Lead
fatbuoybazza 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
disturbed_one51 15/Aug/10 2nd
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 15/Aug/10 Lead
sims 15/Aug/10 2nd β
with Francis
Gilgar 04/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Richard Clague
Calder 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S
arthurraffle98 11/Jul/10 2nd
with Tim Raffle
Tom Redmond 28/Jun/10 Lead O/S

quality route

Hidden 28/Jun/10 2nd
mikej 22/Jun/10 2nd
with Rick Naylor
Russell Lovett 24/May/10 2nd O/S
with Alan Taylor and Poppy the dog
Hidden 21/May/10 2nd
max_chan 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Lou
Tithe Technique 15/May/10 2nd O/S
chumleywarner 15/May/10 TR O/S
valentinesbabe 15/May/10 Lead O/S

Awesome climb...pumpy finish and windy as hell as you come round the nose! Kev seconded

charley 15/May/10 2nd O/S

Ange's lead

AlexRenshaw 26/Apr/10 2nd
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
tigertim 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S

With direct finish as it was more fun!

Graeme Hammond 17/Apr/10 Lead rpt

didn't seem as good as the direct

with Lauren Foster/Keeler, Paul Dewey
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Climber1806 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S

What a route!

with Max Edwards
Hidden 14/Apr/10 2nd
Anthony Dixon 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Jon Dittman 10/Apr/10 Lead
Maxim2023 ?/Apr/10 2nd
with Matt Smith
Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Oct/09 -
Hidden 13/Oct/09 -
popebenedictus 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S
adrianscott 31/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/09 -
Hidden 19/Aug/09 2nd
Adam1973 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
stewart murray 16/Aug/09 2nd
rob wmc 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Neil
Hidden 02/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Solo
Hidden 09/Jul/09 Lead
andyebbens 22/Jun/09 Lead
with Paul
Hidden 31/May/09 Lead O/S
dashitboarder 24/May/09 Lead

Had a look at the direct finish. Decided to stick with this. Faffed too much.

with Dad
mark20 23/May/09 2nd O/S
The Bad Cough 23/May/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
matsavage 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
b.hayley 04/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with alfredo
Alfredo 04/Apr/09 2nd
with Ben H
Foxache 22/Mar/09 2nd β
with Tom Kniveton
Jim Slater 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S

A real gem of climb..and no queues..fantastic.

Hidden 22/Mar/09 2nd O/S
James_D ?/Feb/09 Lead dog

Got my finger stuck, possibly went a bit off route.

with Tim
chrisallan ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/08 Solo O/S
victim of mathematics 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Brilliant. The crux is not where I expected it to be, but there's a bonus kneebar whilst you contemplate how to do it.

with Simon
tom.e 12/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Claire
Hidden 12/Oct/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/08 2nd O/S
craig d 14/Sep/08 Solo O/S
Duck Egg ?/Sep/08 Lead β
Rob Davies 02/Aug/08 2nd
with Phil Ashton
Hidden 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
alek 14/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Simon Holden (LCandCC) 18/May/08 Lead O/S
with Matt Gordon
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
Chris the Tall 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S
bullwinkle 30/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Jamie
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Solo
Si dH 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Not a great line and looks non-descript, but really brilliant climbing

with Neil Furniss
MJ28 ?/Sep/07 Lead RP

Excellent climbing. Delicate traverse.

with Barry
Paul Tomo 30/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Paul Tomlinson
Hidden 06/Aug/07 Lead O/S
mooseloose 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Keith & Robo
Steve Waters, Mynydd 17/Jun/07 2nd O/S

Good traverse. Awkward to stand upright on the arete. Steep climbing up to and up the crack above. Superb. Ann lead but fell from the upper crack after pumping out sticking in too much gear.

with Ann Sanderson
nai 01/Jun/07 2nd
with Tim
tlr 01/Jun/07 Lead
with Pom
BallsofBritishSteel 23/May/07 Lead O/S
with Alex
Hidden 20/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/07 Solo O/S
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Duncan I ??/2007 -
Hidden 21/Oct/06 2nd O/S
cem 15/Oct/05 Lead rpt
with Eric Olson
Stig 22/May/05 2nd O/S
with Jonathan Teale
Marq 22/May/04 Lead O/S
with Steve Yates
Hidden 16/May/04 2nd O/S
djking1983 16/May/04 Lead
Hidden 03/Aug/03 2nd
Hidden 08/Jun/03 Lead
ellie macpherson 25/May/03 Lead

good finish

with mike henesey, Ian Holmes
rob.grafton 12/Apr/03 2nd
with Bruce
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
Blod 03/Sep/00 Lead rpt
with LizS
Ropeboy 14/May/00 Solo
tlr ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Ropeboy 16/Oct/99 Lead
Hidden 02/May/99 Lead O/S
paul birch 21/Jun/98 -
cem 11/Jan/98 2nd
with Gordon Carder, Graham Dolman
Roget 27/Sep/97 Solo O/S
Chris Ellis 09/Aug/97 Lead
with Andy Barker
phardman 14/Sep/96 Lead
Hidden 07/Jul/95 Lead O/S
Rog Wilko ?/Apr/95 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
mikedelderfield 01/May/94 Lead O/S
ste_d 01/May/94 2nd O/S
with mik
D Tempest 10/Oct/93 Solo
with Rick
Mick King 09/May/93 Solo
Hidden 06/Jul/90 Solo
steve prior ?/May/90 Lead
with Rob W
babymoac 17/Mar/90 2nd
with Chris B
goi.ashmore 30/Oct/88 Solo O/S
Iain Thow 05/Jun/88 Lead
with Bob Lister
Andy Say 07/Mar/88 Solo
Nigel Bond 07/Sep/80 Lead
with Pete
mikej 02/Jul/72 Solo
with E
Pete Nugent ??/1945 2nd
with Ian Makin
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Gavinwm, Hidden, jing, pete_naylor, DanChad, hthom, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Chi Cheng, Hidden, Hidden
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 52
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 53
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set