Aberdeenshire > Lochnagar >
 
Shadow Buttress A, Original Route*** IV 5

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Shadow Buttress A, Bell's Route >>
[Preparing for the crux on Shadow Buttress A, 2 kb]300m. Several years ago a small block fell off the crux which already had a reputation for being hard. Now it is nails (hence the increase from the traditional grade III), although short and well protected. A good expedition of a route!

Ticklists: In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers.

Photo: Preparing for the crux on Shadow Buttress A © Michael McGhie
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 78 logbooks, and on 23 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/13

Bit concerned about the amount of snow on the roads the night before but managed to get up Glen Muick and give it a go. Older snow firmed up on the walk in and a few folk breaking trail so not too bad. Surprised to see Shadow A free so decided to give it a go, a day to stay out the gullies. Plenty of snow and good turf, managed the crux first time but felt 'out there'. Continued interest to the top, glad to do one of the 'harder' routes at last after 3 solo trips.
Captain Solo - AltLd - 02/Feb/13 with Ewan

Led the crux, also took alternative line up a steep corner on P5 for a bit more value.
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/13 with Igor Gotlibovych

Led p1, soloed some, Uisdean the rest. Frozen turf and good hooks. Not much ice about. Hell of a crux!
Thoms6974 - AltLd O/S - 13/Jan/13 with Uisdean, Stuart

StuMsg - 2nd - 13/Jan/13 with Uisdean, Andy T

Uisdean hawthorn - 13/Jan/13

Hidden - 2013

alasdair19 - 2013

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Dec/12

adw07 - AltLd - 15/Dec/12 with FIndlay

Joel took the Hollywood crux. Cracking crux.
Lamb - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/12 with Joel Paterson

The route notes say. "the crux is nails". I wholeheartedly agree. It felt like tech 6 to me even with the assistance of the insitu wires. The guide book would lead you to believe that its III using the aid. Many grade III leaders have abbed off I'd guess - judging by the insitu tat.
John Workman - AltLd - 05/Feb/12 with Chris D

Duncan took the terrace pitch as his first winter lead. good crux!
BallsOfSteel - Lead O/S - 31/Jan/12 with duncan osgood

Did crux roof, James did some variation to the right of the ridge at about IV,5
Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with J.Monypenny

crux and then took the final tower direct
Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with Tom Ripley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/12

Mix of soloing, and swapping off leads, popped off seconding the crux. Brilliant route!
MarcusP - AltLd - 29/Jan/12 with Emily

first winter route of the season, enjoyed it but a little rusty!
spoony84 - AltLd - 28/Jan/12 with john sellers, darren lemal

rob1 - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/11 with Simon Lambert

mike.moss - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 24/Dec/10

Interesting crux, left me perplexed for a little while!
michael83 - AltLd O/S - 24/Dec/10 with Mark

Soloed first pitch, Paul led crux. Turf was nicely frozen but the weather was rotten, we got soaked.
Brendan - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/10 with Andy, Paul

abbeywall - AltLd - 13/Mar/10 with K, FM

Nice route, tricky crux and entertaining all the way up.
shugsan - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Jason King

JasonK - AltLd - 13/Feb/10 with Euan Boyd

Hidden - AltLd - 2010

Hidden - 2010

SWalls - AltLd - 28/Dec/09 with Iain Munro

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Dec/09

Loads of snow hard walk in. Hard to find gear. Was a good route to salvage the day! This route is grade III with a one move wonder crux of about grade 5 that is super well protected.
Dangerous Dave - AltLd rpt - 27/Dec/09 with Steve Addy

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Dec/09

Wicked route it's got everything,turf,snow, ice and rock. Highly recommended
Pete Main - AltLd - 07/Mar/09 with Andrew S

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/09

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 18/Feb/09

Late start due to deep powder and huge cornices over many of the other climbs. Had an old guidebook which didn't make much sense, went off route too far right and had to downclimb a whole pitch, then abbed because was getting late.
adw07 - AltLd dnf - 15/Feb/09 with Scott Becker

poor snow conditions, buried with crust on top. fell from crux 3 times, had to aid it.
danm - AltLd - 01/Feb/09 with Sion

k2scott - 2009

windy100 - 2009

francois - 2nd - 2009 with Gunnar

innes - Lead - 2009

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/08

A voyage up Lochnagar. A great route up a varied and occasionally exposed buttress. We did the 'Bells Route' start which is a much better start to the route (I've now done both) which is sustained at III and poorly protected until the last 7 or so metres which is IV but with gear. Second pitch is easy II until the crux, which is a classic. A hard move up and out left into the unseen onto a small ledge. It is well protected with plenty of in-situ gear but it is still a leap of (blind) faith. I slotted my right pick into the top nut as an insurance policy for the big move in case I peeled off as the peg mentioned in the guide is not there so the move has to be done clean like it or not. I didn't peel. The next pitch is easy although Will was keen to make up for missing the crux lead by climbing a wall on the right almost as hard before getting back on route. A yellow chopper took great interest in us as we climbed the crest, its the only time I've smelt exhaust fumes on a 300m route. The tower at the top looks good and Will was keen to take it on but it was too late in the day, it was getting dark and our gear was frozen. I abbed off this route in 1999 at the crux as the rockfall was unknown at that time, I may have been the first, or one of the first, to make this surprise discovery and it came as a bit of a shock back then so it was good to finish the route 9 years later. All in all a top quality route, three stars for sure.
AndyP - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/08 with Will

Really good route, longand interesting, tower variation at the top is worth doing too.
andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 18/Mar/08 with scotty burnett

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/08

s kennedy - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/08 with mark mosgrove

John HW - AltLd - 06/Jan/08 with Cath

smac - 2008

glenngordon - 2nd dog - 2007 with euan whittaker

gregor - 2006

niall_mac - AltLd - Mar/05 with Emmett

Hidden - AltLd - Jan/05

Bailed off 1stpitch of Bells Route V6 on Shadow B. Soloed 1st pitch then Graham led next 2 x pitchs then alt leads
Yourlead - AltLd - 24/Mar/04 with Graham Penny

Dangerous Dave - Lead O/S - 2004

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Jan/03

Hidden - Lead - 2003

dunx55 - AltLd O/S - 2002

dunx55 - AltLd - 2002

Failed at technical crux (site of rockfall) and abseiled off beside Moonshadow. Doh!
steveP - AltLd dnf - Mar/00 with Frank Popham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

Very stormy weather deteriating - Not rally in nick and very lean!
Yourlead - AltLd - 27/Nov/99 with Graham Penny

Abbed off 4th pitch due to new crux (tech. 5/6?) exposed by recent stonefall- probably this year. Too late in the day.
AndyP - AltLd dnf - 09/Jan/99 with Jamie

climbed 3 times (i think)
oor wullie - 1999

Tarquin - 1999

phardman - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/97 with Muir Morton

nickcanute - AltLd - Mar/96 with keith bolton

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Feb/95

Richard Weller - Lead - Feb/95 with Ian Bryden

Not sure of date or partner
mark-abz - AltLd - Feb/94 with Bill S

Stuart S - AltLd - Jan/92 with Nigel Eastmond

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Dec/90

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Mar/89

Heavy cover of spring snow. Soloed most of route apart from crux
David Smith - AltLd - 04/Apr/88 with charlie french

S,2,L,2.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/88 with DAVID SMITH

Stuart S - Lead O/S - Feb/87 with Hal Taylor

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, oliverk, peter.herd, iksander, david0811, Hidden, MrRiley, Hidden, Hidden, hodgegrayson, Hidden, Hidden, Dustin, Ian Jones, michael83, Hidden, Hidden, Sandy Simpson, Hidden, Hidden, andymoin, Neil Mackenzie

Voting
Total votes cast 50
hard V0 of 17
V0 of 17
easy V0 of 17
hard IV1 of 17
IV7 of 17
easy IV1 of 17
hard III8 of 17
III0 of 17
easy III0 of 17
hard 60 of 17
60 of 17
easy 64 of 17
hard 51 of 17
511 of 17
easy 50 of 17
hard 41 of 17
40 of 17
easy 40 of 17
3 Stars10 of 16
2 Stars6 of 16
1 Star0 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
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Style of ascent

Lead7 of 78 (9.0%)
Followed3 of 78 (3.8%)
Alt Leads57 of 78 (73.1%)
Unknown11 of 78 (14.1%)

'Climbed'44 of 78 (56.4%)
clean O/S27 of 78 (34.6%)
clean rpt2 of 78 (2.6%)
dogged1 of 78 (1.3%)
dnf4 of 78 (5.1%)