300m. Several years ago a small block fell off the crux which already had a reputation for being hard. Now it is nails (hence the increase from the traditional grade III), although short and well protected. A good expedition of a route!

Ticklists: In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers, 3 star Scottish winter.

Hidden 12/Apr AltLd
ColdAndWet 04/Mar AltLd
with Jeremy Windsor
jonskippy 26/Jan 2nd β
benclimbing 26/Jan Lead O/S
Callum_Johnson 19/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
Tim_Gomersall 19/Dec/14 AltLd
with Callum johnson
MSchobitz 09/Feb/14 2nd

Great route, currently covered in snow. Barely any gear, lots of digging, but still great climbing. The decent turned into a bit of an epic. Blizzard, white-out and nightfall hit as we topped out. Loss of map, compass and sense of direction did not help. Luckily found some tracks and ended up at the bothy next to Loch Muick. Reached the car park and our tent 20 hours after leaving.

benkelsey 09/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

big day. epic walk in with realllly strong winds. lots of powder on the route, making gear really hard to find and the whole thing very hard work. Lead pitches 1,3,4,6, with mikey smashing his pitches. Pitch 3 was incredible inch deep commiting neve getting further away from the last runner and any potential runners. great sense of satisfaction to be in such a cool place climbing such cool features. We had to traverse around a massive cornice by doing a long traverse left and finding a small part. Got to the top at dusk, promptly dropped the map which sped off into the total white out blizzard. oops. lucky to find some tracks and follow them down to the other end of loch muik. Everything to search for in a Scottish winter route! probably more like V,4 on the day

with Mikey
david0811 11/Jan/14 AltLd

Good route but tough conditions. Crux was very hard. Well done to Dave for leading that pitch. Another long day out on Lochnagar

with debbie, Dave Riley
MrRiley 11/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Very challenging conditions - crud and icy cracks but a long and interesting expedition nonetheless. The crux is very very hard for a tech 5 and should probably get 6 but it's a brilliant and committing series of moves to rock over left on to the small ledge. Classic!

Elsier 11/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Lots of crusty and soft snow made it hard work. Adrian lead the crux pitch via the chimney to the right, rather than waiting for the team ahead, very strenuous but good fun. Then I got off route, heading too far to the right above and onto some desperately hard slabby corners covered in powder with no gear- very scary! Long day- finished in the dark!

with Adrian
Hidden 11/Jan/14 AltLd
Carol Goodall 07/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Great route although very hard crux which I have to admit hooking a carbine on the in-situ gear for aid. Jonnie led it clean though. Next pitch up the ridge was fun and I made it thrutchy. Protected from strong W wind all day until we topped out. Good solid turf where needed most of the time.

with Vicky Culshaw, Jonnie Williams
jonnie3430 07/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Soloed to crux, lead it clean, there is 3 insitu wires and a sling for aid if required. Soloed after to crest of ridge and Carol led a good pitch just off crest to right before a final 60m pitch took us to the top. Good route.

with Vikki, Carol
JonmapDL 16/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Grand, long mountaineering route. We had good weather, but poor suggary snow. Chuffed lead on chimney crux variation (tech5) quite tricky, recommend it! Then wandered up right over some interesting steps onto Giant's Head Chimney before climbing back onto the buttress at sunset. Last two pitches in the moon dark to strong winds on summit. Back in the bothy for 10 and a dram.

Captain Solo 02/Feb/13 AltLd

Bit concerned about the amount of snow on the roads the night before but managed to get up Glen Muick and give it a go. Older snow firmed up on the walk in and a few folk breaking trail so not too bad. Surprised to see Shadow A free so decided to give it a go, a day to stay out the gullies. Plenty of snow and good turf, managed the crux first time but felt 'out there'. Continued interest to the top, glad to do one of the 'harder' routes at last after 3 solo trips.

with Ewan
ig248 02/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Kirill
Kirill 02/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Led the crux, also took alternative line up a steep corner on P5 for a bit more value. Didn't bother to look at the map on the way back and went the wrong way, resulting in extra 1h30min of wandering in the dark. Numpties.

Thoms6974 13/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Led p1, soloed some, Uisdean the rest. Frozen turf and good hooks. Not much ice about. Hell of a crux!

StuMsg 13/Jan/13 2nd
Uisdean hawthorn 13/Jan/13 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
alasdair19 ??/2013 -
AC1 ??/2013 -
CacCarnBeag 15/Dec/12 AltLd

A nice route, but surely not 3 stars...

with Andy
adw07 15/Dec/12 AltLd
with Findlay
Lamb 19/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Joel took the Hollywood crux. Cracking crux. III,6 would seem fair.

with Joel Paterson
John Workman 05/Feb/12 AltLd

The route notes say. "the crux is nails". I wholeheartedly agree. It felt like tech 6 to me even with the assistance of the insitu wires. The guide book would lead you to believe that its III using the aid. Many grade III leaders have abbed off I'd guess - judging by the insitu tat.

with Chris D
BallsOfSteel 31/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Duncan took the terrace pitch as his first winter lead. good crux!

with duncan osgood
Ollie B 29/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Did crux roof, James did some variation to the right of the ridge at about IV,5

with J.Monypenny
Tom Livingstone 29/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

crux and then took the final tower direct

Hidden 29/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
MarcusP 29/Jan/12 AltLd

Mix of soloing, and swapping off leads, popped off seconding the crux. Brilliant route!

with Emily
spoony84 28/Jan/12 AltLd

first winter route of the season, enjoyed it but a little rusty!

with john sellers, darren lemal
rob1 12/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with Simon Lambert
mike.moss 12/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 24/Dec/10 AltLd rpt
michael83 24/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Interesting crux, left me perplexed for a little while!

with Mark
Brendan 25/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Soloed first pitch, Paul led crux. Turf was nicely frozen but the weather was rotten, we got soaked.

with Andy, Paul
abbeywall 13/Mar/10 AltLd
with K, FM
shugsan 13/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Nice route, tricky crux and entertaining all the way up.

JasonK 13/Feb/10 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 28/Dec/09 AltLd
Hidden 28/Dec/09 AltLd
Dangerous Dave 27/Dec/09 AltLd rpt

Loads of snow hard walk in. Hard to find gear. Was a good route to salvage the day! This route is grade III with a one move wonder crux of about grade 5 that is super well protected.

Hidden 21/Dec/09 AltLd
Pete Main 07/Mar/09 AltLd

Wicked route it's got everything,turf,snow, ice and rock. Highly recommended

with Andrew S
Hidden 07/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
adw07 15/Feb/09 AltLd dnf

Late start due to deep powder and huge cornices over many of the other climbs. Had an old guidebook which didn't make much sense, went off route too far right and had to downclimb a whole pitch, then abbed because was getting late.

Hidden 15/Feb/09 AltLd dnf
danm 01/Feb/09 AltLd

poor snow conditions, buried with crust on top. fell from crux 3 times, had to aid it.

with Sion
k2scott ??/2009 -
windy100 ??/2009 -
francois ??/2009 2nd
with Gunnar
innes ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 01/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
AndyP 01/Nov/08 AltLd O/S

A voyage up Lochnagar. A great route up a varied and occasionally exposed buttress. We did the 'Bells Route' start which is a much better start to the route (I've now done both) which is sustained at III and poorly protected until the last 7 or so metres which is IV but with gear. Second pitch is easy II until the crux, which is a classic. A hard move up and out left into the unseen onto a small ledge. It is well protected with plenty of in-situ gear but it is still a leap of (blind) faith. I slotted my right pick into the top nut as an insurance policy for the big move in case I peeled off as the peg mentioned in the guide is not there so the move has to be done clean like it or not. I didn't peel. The next pitch is easy although Will was keen to make up for missing the crux lead by climbing a wall on the right almost as hard before getting back on route. A yellow chopper took great interest in us as we climbed the crest, its the only time I've smelt exhaust fumes on a 300m route. The tower at the top looks good and Will was keen to take it on but it was too late in the day, it was getting dark and our gear was frozen. I abbed off this route in 1999 at the crux as the rockfall was unknown at that time, I may have been the first, or one of the first, to make this surprise discovery and it came as a bit of a shock back then so it was good to finish the route 9 years later. All in all a top quality route, three stars for sure.

with Will
andyinglis 18/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

Really good route, longand interesting, tower variation at the top is worth doing too.

with scotty burnett
Hidden 02/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
s kennedy 02/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
with mark mosgrove
John HW 06/Jan/08 AltLd
with Cath
smac ??/2008 -
glenngordon ??/2007 2nd dog
with euan whittaker
gregor ??/2006 -
niall_mac ?/Mar/05 AltLd
with Emmett
Hidden ?/Jan/05 AltLd
Yourlead 24/Mar/04 AltLd

Bailed off 1stpitch of Bells Route V6 on Shadow B. Soloed 1st pitch then Graham led next 2 x pitchs then alt leads

with Graham Penny
Dangerous Dave ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jan/03 AltLd
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
dunx55 ??/2002 AltLd O/S
dunx55 ??/2002 AltLd
steveP ?/Mar/00 AltLd dnf

Failed at technical crux (site of rockfall) and abseiled off beside Moonshadow. Doh!

with Frank Popham
IanMcC 26/Feb/00 AltLd dnf

"Climb, Des".

Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
Yourlead 27/Nov/99 AltLd

Very stormy weather deteriating - Not rally in nick and very lean!

with Graham Penny
AndyP 09/Jan/99 AltLd dnf

Abbed off 4th pitch due to new crux (tech. 5/6?) exposed by recent stonefall- probably this year. Too late in the day.

with Jamie
oor wullie ??/1999 -

climbed 3 times (i think)

Hidden ??/1999 -
Hidden ?/Feb/98 -
phardman 22/Feb/97 AltLd O/S
with Muir Morton
nickcanute ?/Mar/96 AltLd
with keith bolton
Hidden 20/Feb/95 AltLd
Richard Weller ?/Feb/95 Lead
with Ian Bryden
mark-abz ?/Feb/94 AltLd

Not sure of date or partner

with Bill S
Stuart S ?/Jan/92 AltLd
with Nigel Eastmond
Hidden 01/Dec/90 AltLd O/S
Steve Crowe 28/Jan/90 AltLd O/S
Bruce Kerr 04/Mar/89 AltLd
with Keith Turton
uphillnow 04/Apr/88 AltLd

Heavy cover of spring snow. Soloed most of route apart from crux

with charlie french
charlesmfrench 03/Apr/88 AltLd O/S


Hidden 18/Jan/88 AltLd
Hidden ??/1988 Solo
Stuart S ?/Feb/87 Lead O/S
with Hal Taylor
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SkylarLobdell, adamarchie, Hidden, bandersnatch, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, forcan, Hidden, Hoyes, Hidden, Hidden, oliverk, peter.herd, iksander, Hidden, Jonny Fart-Pants, Hidden, Dustin, Ian Jones, michael83, Hidden, Hidden, Sandy Simpson, Hidden, Hidden, andymoin, Neil Mackenzie
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Votes cast 21
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set