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Eagle Ridge*** VI 6

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[A climber on Eagle Ridge., 2 kb]For reference, climbed in 4 pitches, hopefully this description helps others. P1, 50m, Climb the lowest right facing groove at the base of the buttress (just inside Douglas Gibson gully) until easier ground and another right facing corner takes you up the buttress. P2, 50m, Move on to the crest of the buttress and continue up until a step right can be made in to the base of a steep left facing corner. Continue up this and then towards the crest by the left groove, thread and spike belay just below the crest. P3, 50m, Head for the crest right below the tower, where there is good exposure looking down in to Douglas Gibson. Approach either by continuing up from the belay and moving over the big flakes or by stepping right from the belay in to the first left slanting corner. From the crest step & reach over to a shallow groove on the tower and pull on to the tower face (difficult under powder since there is a slab for feet). Continue up the face of the tower heading for the sentry box (trending a little right then left). Pull with difficulty in to the sentry box. The sentry box is a bit tight for a winter belay and the crampon/face risk is high so continue up and out on to the ridge proper. Continue along the exposed ridge (for 20m) until it begins to steepen again and belay here. Note that the “groove on the right” at the base of tower in the guide book is not the groove round the right hand face of the tower, the route tackles the tower direct. P4, 60m, from the belay move up and round in to a steep left facing corner, continue up following the line of the ridge until another final right facing corner leads up right to the summit. M. Mcghie

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers.

Photo: A climber on Eagle Ridge. © Alor_lab
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 66 logbooks, and on 53 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jul/14

saintlade - 2014

Uisdean hawthorn - AltLd O/S - 10/Nov/13

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Mar/13

michael83 - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/13 with Mark Mosgrove

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 24/Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Feb/13

AC1 - 2013

Powder day on the ridge. A yard broom would have been a useful third tool. Continually good climbing with three very steep sections proving desperate to hook over in the powder. Gear good.
Johnny Baker - AltLd - 07/Feb/12 with Sam Richards

With military group before India exped
davebrox - Lead - Feb/12

Bmc international meet
Dave Almond - AltLd - 26/Jan/12 with Marchello Sanguineti

epic doesnt even begin to describe this day. 20 hours van to van, 14 on the climb. first VI for all of us, a lot of powder on the route to clear and i took 1 fall leading the crux after i failed to find the good hook in the powder (found it second go). also fell leading the last pitch due to dodgy kit (enough said for now about that), landed badly on my shoulder and had to prussic up the last pitch. topped out at 1am into a raging storm, back at the van at 3 and back at the house at 5am. long day!
James S - AltLd - 24/Jan/12 with stu, sam

Hidden - 2012

Climbed with A. Field. Great day out. Surprise snow field getting to the 1st pitch!
bradill - Lead - 29/Apr/11

I was Ondrej's belay bunny...
JdotP - 2nd O/S - 12/Feb/11 with Ondrej Mandula

Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/11 with Steve Seale

led pitch 2
gowla - AltLd O/S - 21/Jan/11 with adam booth

Hidden - Lead - 05/Jan/11

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

alkira - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Mark Fairhurst - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/10

A bit dry in places but neve was quite hard. Both crux pitches were excellent!
jamestheyip - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/10 with Carlos

Pete Graham - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/10 with Luke Porter

Very fat. Snow not always consolidated. Glad to 2nd the crux pitch!
Cardi - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/10 with Tom R

classic! get's ore interesting (harder) with height then the tower is reached. lots of tech 6 climbing here! awesome exposure from the tower on! not for the faint hearted.
mulletcocktail2000 - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/10 with andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/10

Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/10 with Adam

More snow on this side of the corrie than on the Pinnacle - made it quite hard going in places. Fell off the hard wall above the knife-edge, but got it second go once I had cleared a bit more snow.
gforce - AltLd - 31/Jan/10 with Simon

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/09

ShaneHoubart - AltLd - May/09

Not quite winter, not quite summer. Wet snow loosely attached to rock. Turned round below crux pitch.
robinsi197 - AltLd dnf - Mar/09 with Nick

4hr wade to get there. Good conditions on route - crux was steep, but never desperate. Neil had a seriously sketchy "moment" while slightly off route!
Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/09 with Neil Adams

A heck of a day! Knackering trail-breaking on the way in, a big route, and an exhausted stagger back out. Went a bit off route on P4 and ended up on pretty sketchy ground.
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/09 with Ally F

Behind two other teams. Second's head torch did not work so 'working' the summer crux in the darkness was exciting for him and the belayer!
hwackerhage - Lead - 01/Feb/09 with Trias

sgl - AltLd - 01/Feb/09 with gaz

gaz.marshall - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/09 with sam

Hidden - AltLd β - 09/Mar/08

s kennedy - AltLd β - 09/Mar/08 with mark mosgrove

Hidden - 2008

smac - 2008

samrcowie - AltLd O/S - Sep/07 with pete and tom buck

mux - 2007 with Simon Frost , Neil Griffiths

frost - AltLd - 2007 with D Garry N Griffiths

A grand day out.
NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 2007 with Dave Garry, Simon Frost

Came down just before the tower. Very slow progress with lots of powder to clear.
Smelly Fox - AltLd dnf - Jan/06 with Matt Croll

MarkDavies36 - AltLd O/S - 2003 with Richard Bentley

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 2003

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2001

started route at 1.30pm in very heavy snowy conditions.my partner fell off the crux landing on his bum on the knife edge.sore.i lead through and we topped out in the dark with snow falling, no maps and never been there before.very exciting.
Dave Almond - AltLd - Mar/00

Summer route - S
Graham Kennedy - 2nd - 01/Aug/98 with Andrew Porter

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/98

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/98

Best winter route ever?
phardman - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/97 with Muir Morton

switch - AltLd - Feb/96

phardman - Feb/96

Another epic. Heavy snow breaking trail in, avalanches down the gully's all day. No water. Blind ally followed above the whaleback. Ab off and very shaky walk out. Great day!
Ollie Clem - AltLd dnf - Jan/96 with James Richardson

Brilliant. Possibly best Scottish Winter experience
Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 18/Feb/95 with Chris Ranner

mark-abz - Lead - 17/Apr/94 with Tom O

FrankW - AltLd O/S - Mar/94 with Andy R

1st V. Dropped axe pitch 3. Martin dropped huge snowlump from tower onto JA head. Cunning variation at summer crux
john irving - 1991 with Jamie Andrew, Rich Davies

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/88

2,L,2,L,2,L.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/88 with Keith Milne, Ian Milne

Excellent route, grade 5 at the time, lead top pitch, toped out in the dark, great day out, memorable.
The Bronze - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/83 with M.Hair

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Voting
Total votes cast 38
hard VII0 of 13
VII0 of 13
easy VII0 of 13
hard VI2 of 13
VI9 of 13
easy VI1 of 13
hard V1 of 13
V0 of 13
easy V0 of 13
hard 70 of 14
70 of 14
easy 73 of 14
hard 68 of 14
63 of 14
easy 60 of 14
hard 50 of 14
50 of 14
easy 50 of 14
3 Stars9 of 11
2 Stars2 of 11
1 Star0 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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Style of ascent

Lead7 of 66 (10.6%)
Followed2 of 66 (3.0%)
Alt Leads44 of 66 (66.7%)
Unknown13 of 66 (19.7%)

'Climbed'35 of 66 (53.0%)
clean O/S24 of 66 (36.4%)
clean β2 of 66 (3.0%)
clean rpt1 of 66 (1.5%)
dnf4 of 66 (6.1%)