Ice still good but melting fast.martinh13 - AltLd - 02/Mar/13 with Tim Day
Did this some years ago and had a horrific time in soft snow at the "corner". Conditions there (a bit) better this time. All the real fun in the ice of the first pitch or so of course. Tagged on the route in the SAIS patrol's blog: http://saisscairngorms.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/a-busier-lochnagar.html
timday - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Martin
Thawing rapidly but managed to be in ok conditions. Climbed with Davey and KY.
kenneM - Lead - 02/Jan/13
alasdair19 - 2013
Bob.allan - AltLd - 19/Feb/12 with Gavin L, Rew ferguson
Gavin L - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/12 with Bob Allan, Rew Ferguson
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/12
First two pitches excellent sport with good ice, direct line up 2nd pitch offers sections of vertical ice, better to do right fork variation for the finish rather than easy gully at top of left fork. Great day out
marcushorgan - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/12 with Russell Gill, Dan Currie
Hidden - 2012
led first pitch. Then went up the chimney to the right which had a desparate thrutchy couple of moves to get over the chockstone. Bomber placements all the way and great exit
abbeywall - AltLd - 06/Mar/11 with K
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/11
After backing off Giant's Head Chimney (Scott deciding 75 degree mush a little unsafe!) followed a party of 3 up Parallel A. 2 decent ice / neve pitches. Led 1,3,5. 5 hours climb topping out in the dark at 18:00. Enjoyable first day out with Scott.
LogieNick - AltLd - 27/Feb/11 with Scott Muir
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/11
Good ice condition on the bottom and middle section of the gully.
Snow on the last pitch well unconsolidated.
It was fantastic climb.
Tomek S - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/11 with Wojtek Polkowski
Wojttek - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/11 with Tomek
JonmapDL - AltLd O/S - Feb/11 with Chris Filo G.
Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/11
Fantastic ice with 1st time placements! Wee bit hollow at the narrowing on 1st pitch but only for a couple of moves.
konacol - AltLd - 27/Jan/11 with Ken Murray
Chris L Hill - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/11 with Gwilym
Felt quite easy. Chris got to lead the best bits (1st and 2nd last pitches). Some bits were unconsolidated with poor protection, other bits had good ice. Took us just over 4hrs.
climberuk - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11 with Chris P
crispy - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11 with Steven
Hidden - AltLd - 2011
Hidden - 2011
Lead ice pitch and exit.
Lamb - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/10 with Robert Manby
Led pitches 1,3 & 5. Superb line.
borderline - AltLd - 14/Mar/10 with Tim Day
Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/Feb/10
shugsan - AltLd - 14/Feb/10 with Jason King
Lead all. Bottom pitches fun ice, top run out sugar but still good fun in all.
Batt - Lead - 14/Feb/10 with andrea lewis
Hoyes - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/10 with Rachel B
Liam Ingram - Lead dnf - 13/Feb/10 with Fiona Mellor
Hidden - 2nd dnf - 13/Feb/10
JasonK - AltLd - 13/Feb/10 with Euan Boyd
Hidden - 2nd - 13/Feb/10
Soloing up it. Found a helmet tumbling down. Then, an Alien ice axe. It was Richard's. Snow and ice was rotten. Not that pleasant. Cloud rolled in the afternoon but cleared by late afternoon. Nice view.
Skinny Kin - Solo O/S - 21/Mar/09
Petes first grade III
t_stork - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/09 with Pete
windy100 - 2009
Hidden - AltLd - 29/Dec/08
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 26/Dec/08
the ice was a bit thin and rotten in places which made belaying interesting with tv sized blocks winging past!
michael83 - AltLd O/S - 26/Dec/08 with Mark, Aly
Hidden - AltLd - Dec/08
Hidden - Lead - 09/Mar/08
jonnie3430 - Lead - 19/Jan/08 with Anna and Sarah Beth
TrollJester - AltLd O/S - 2008 with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's
andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/07 with neil adams
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/07 with Andy Inglis
Hidden - AltLd - Mar/07
The route was not fuly formed. The first 20-ish metres was very thin and Tech. 4. The party behind us appeared to have a leader fall, we noticed they were in difficulty at the base of the route when we were on the third pitch. the casualty was moving so hopefuly it was not too serious (found out later the leader had broken his leg in two places). A chopper took them away. The first pitch was serious and by the time Joe had climbed it there probably was not much of it left. The third pitch was a 65m grade II snow romp.There was a steep ice section at the end of the fourth pitch which Joe led. Thankfully the cornice was a doddle but we had come to do Polyphemus so we had a rack of rock pro and some screws - no snow protection. Not clever. Polyphemus was not in condition at all; more black than white. The overall grade for Parallel A in this condition was probably IV,4.
AndyP - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/07 with Joe
DavPk - Lead - 17/Dec/06 with Roel Van Den Ham
Seems to need a lot of icing to be at its best. We ignored the SMC guide's advice to: "go for gullies when icing is good, go for buttreses when there's powder" and paid the price, finding this route pretty hard going at times. Bad weather moved in at around pitch 4 (the traverse left out of the gully), leaving Shaw waist deep in spindrift when he finally left the stance!
Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 09/Apr/06 with Shaw Brown
First pitch a bit unconsolidated but enough good stuff to be OK. The guide recommends to avoid the chimney on the third pitch but we found it good. Spindrift city when the wind picks up, lucky for us that it waited until we were near the top.
Shaw Brown - AltLd - 08/Apr/06 with peter metcalfe
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/06
s kennedy - AltLd O/S - Mar/06 with mark mosgrove
Hidden - AltLd - Jan/05
Dangerous Dave - Lead O/S - 2004
Sandy P - AltLd - 2003 with Guy Couper-Marsh
dunx55 - AltLd O/S - 2003
Dirk Wallis - AltLd - 2003 with Grrr
Excellent first pitch. Tried right fork alternative, but out of condition. Eventually aborted, but then got stuck behind a very slow team. Dark by the time we got to the top. Mates on another route had got tired of waiting and gone to pub. They had a map. We didn't. After a couple of hours decided we'd have to spend the night out. Chris got his full 8 hours, I shivered. Finally got to sleep around 5.00am. Woken half an hour later by snow falling on survival bag. For first time started to get worried. More shivering till dawn revealed we'd bivvied about 500m from the track! Had to poke Chris with ice axe to stop him having Sunday morning lie-in. Greeted on walk out by land rover full of big blokes. Turned out mates had called out MRT! Got in very sheepishly for lift back to car. A proper mini epic. (Led Ps 1,3,5)
Andy Clarke - AltLd - 09/Mar/02 with ChrisB
niall_mac - AltLd - Feb/00 with am_bodach
bandersnatch - Lead - 1999
Climbed 3 times
oor wullie - 1998 with Ian Bromley
Hidden - AltLd - 14/Feb/95
FrankW - AltLd O/S - Feb/92 with Roland K
Hidden - AltLd - 1985
Sean Kelly - AltLd - Jan/76 with Ken Burton