Parallel Buttress VI 6
[Grappling with the tower, 3 kb]270m, 6 pitches. A classic climb well worth its stars. It feels desperate and undignified in places. Be prepared to grovel and kneel before the might of Lochnagar...

Since the book has no pitch descriptions:
1. 20-25m Follow the big steep obvious groove for 10m until an airy traverse out right can be made to a big ledge looking down in to the chimney.
2. 50-60m Step in to the chimney and climb steeply until just before it narrows and pull out right with difficulty. Traverse up and right before cutting back left and up in to the turf field. Run it out and find somewhere to belay.
3. 60m(maybe more, be prepared to simu-climb) Traverse up and right until a steep ledge overlooking parallel gully B can be followed to its end. Belay at the base of an obvious steep right facing corner.
4. 50m Climb down a few meters and move up left on to the face of the buttress, follow turfy grooves all the way to the foot of the headwall.
5. 30m Climb up left on to the small ledge and pull through the desperate crux crack. Pull round left of the tower and traverse delicately on exposed ground until easy moves up right lead back to the crest of the buttress. Belay just over the other side of the crest.
6. 50m Climb easily to the summit and celebrate with lots of sweeties.
Around 270m, climbed in 7hours from daybreak.
M. McGhie - Feb 2012

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers, Mountaineering in Scotland: in the footsteps of WH Murray, 3 star Scottish winter.

Photo: Grappling with the tower © submariner
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 14 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

First two pitches only (to turfy grooves on face of the buttress), looked a bit bare higher up on the tower. Went straight up the V-groove on the first pitch on beautiful ice.
adw07 - Lead dnf - 15/Mar/15 with Findlay

Andy led left hand variation start and 2nd hard pitch. Top tower looked very black.
CacCarnBeag - 2nd dnf - 15/Mar/15 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jan/14

sgl - AltLd - 11/Jan/14 with Bart

Climbed the L/Hand Variation VI,7, abbed from after pitch 2, under thawing conditions
Stuart the postie - AltLd dnf - 02/Mar/13 with Graham Stein

Thawing snow but good turf where needed and helpful ice high on crux. Topped out 3hrs after starting. Great route.
Smith42 - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Lindsay Yule

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/12

lead the desperate crux. A somewhat undignified route but great fun all the same!
michael83 - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/12 with Mark Mosgrove

Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/12 with Tom Ripley

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jan/12

mark-abz - AltLd - 11/Mar/94 with Walter P

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/88

Hidden - AltLd - 1985

Malcolm Bass - AltLd O/S - 0000 with Simon Yearsley, Dave Johnson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
michael83, Mark020
Total votes cast 13
hard VII0 of 4
VII0 of 4
easy VII0 of 4
hard VI0 of 4
VI3 of 4
easy VI1 of 4
hard V0 of 4
V0 of 4
easy V0 of 4
hard 70 of 4
70 of 4
easy 70 of 4
hard 63 of 4
61 of 4
easy 60 of 4
hard 50 of 4
50 of 4
easy 50 of 4
3 Stars5 of 5
2 Stars0 of 5
1 Star0 of 5
0 Stars0 of 5
Bag of .....0 of 5
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.