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|Aberdeenshire > Lochnagar >|
|Parallel Buttress|| VI 6|
<< Parallel A Gully Right Fork
Parallel Gully B >>
|270m, 6 pitches. A classic climb well worth its stars. It feels desperate and undignified in places. Be prepared to grovel and kneel before the might of Lochnagar...
Since the book has no pitch descriptions:
1. 20-25m Follow the big steep obvious groove for 10m until an airy traverse out right can be made to a big ledge looking down in to the chimney.
2. 50-60m Step in to the chimney and climb steeply until just before it narrows and pull out right with difficulty. Traverse up and right before cutting back left and up in to the turf field. Run it out and find somewhere to belay.
3. 60m(maybe more, be prepared to simu-climb) Traverse up and right until a steep ledge overlooking parallel gully B can be followed to its end. Belay at the base of an obvious steep right facing corner.
4. 50m Climb down a few meters and move up left on to the face of the buttress, follow turfy grooves all the way to the foot of the headwall.
5. 30m Climb up left on to the small ledge and pull through the desperate crux crack. Pull round left of the tower and traverse delicately on exposed ground until easy moves up right lead back to the crest of the buttress. Belay just over the other side of the crest.
6. 50m Climb easily to the summit and celebrate with lots of sweeties.
Around 270m, climbed in 7hours from daybreak.
M. McGhie - Feb 2012|
Ticklists: Cold Climbs, In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers.
Photo: Grappling with the tower © submariner
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This climb is in 10 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.
Climbed the L/Hand Variation VI,7, abbed from after pitch 2, under thawing conditions
Stuart the postie - AltLd dnf - 02/Mar/13 with Graham Stein
Hidden - AltLd - 02/Mar/13
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/12
lead the desperate crux. A somewhat undignified route but great fun all the same!
michael83 - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/12 with Mark Mosgrove
Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/12 with Tom Ripley
Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jan/12
mark-abz - AltLd - 11/Mar/94 with Walter P
Hidden - AltLd - Feb/88
Hidden - AltLd - 1985
Malcolm Bass - AltLd O/S - 0000 with Simon Yearsley, Dave Johnson
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, michael83, Mark020