270m, 6 pitches. A classic climb well worth its stars. It feels desperate and undignified in places. Be prepared to grovel and kneel before the might of Lochnagar...

Since the book has no pitch descriptions:
1. 20-25m Follow the big steep obvious groove for 10m until an airy traverse out right can be made to a big ledge looking down in to the chimney.
2. 50-60m Step in to the chimney and climb steeply until just before it narrows and pull out right with difficulty. Traverse up and right before cutting back left and up in to the turf field. Run it out and find somewhere to belay.
3. 60m(maybe more, be prepared to simu-climb) Traverse up and right until a steep ledge overlooking parallel gully B can be followed to its end. Belay at the base of an obvious steep right facing corner.
4. 50m Climb down a few meters and move up left on to the face of the buttress, follow turfy grooves all the way to the foot of the headwall.
5. 30m Climb up left on to the small ledge and pull through the desperate crux crack. Pull round left of the tower and traverse delicately on exposed ground until easy moves up right lead back to the crest of the buttress. Belay just over the other side of the crest.
6. 50m Climb easily to the summit and celebrate with lots of sweeties.
Around 270m, climbed in 7hours from daybreak.
M. McGhie - Feb 2012

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers, Mountaineering in Scotland: in the footsteps of WH Murray, 3 star Scottish winter.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 15/Mar/15 Lead dnf
CacCarnBeag 15/Mar/15 2nd dnf

Andy led left hand variation start and 2nd hard pitch. Top tower looked very black.

with Andy
tebs 11/Jan/14 AltLd

Great neve low down made for easy climbing but extremely bold, Sam strapped it on for a 65 metre pitch one with 2 runners in the first 20 metres and nothing thereafter. Neve turned to thick crud higher up which made for some heavy clearing work. I led crux pitch 4 but not without a couple of warm up goes as blind hooks under the snow ripped; luckily the gear was excellent where it counted. Went fine after the crucial (massive) foothold was unearthed! Sam thankfully took the mega exposed traverse left. Cracking route but character building.

with Sam
sgl 11/Jan/14 AltLd
with Bart
Stuart the postie 02/Mar/13 AltLd dnf

Climbed the L/Hand Variation VI,7, abbed from after pitch 2, under thawing conditions

with Graham Stein
Smith42 02/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Thawing snow but good turf where needed and helpful ice high on crux. Topped out 3hrs after starting. Great route.

with Lindsay Yule
Hidden 02/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
michael83 02/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

lead the desperate crux. A somewhat undignified route but great fun all the same!

Tom Livingstone 28/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jan/12 AltLd
mark-abz 11/Mar/94 AltLd
with Walter P
Hidden ?/Feb/88 AltLd
Hidden ??/1985 AltLd
Malcolm Bass ??/0000 AltLd O/S
with Simon Yearsley, Dave Johnson
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Voting
High VII
Mid VII
Low VII
High VI
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Low VI
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Low V
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High 7
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