picasso - Lead - 29/Mar/15
Pretty much banked out with an icy steepening as the 'crux'. Snow more cruddy towards the top & cornice easy to surmount on the left.
mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/15 with Steven Delderfield
Ross Barnes - Solo - 25/Mar/15
Very poor visibility. Condition good. Cornice at top nice and stable.
andymcronald - Solo - 16/Mar/15
Hidden - Lead - 14/Mar/15
Soloed some sections and was protected by a rope belay in others. Incredible route. The majority of the enormous cornice has collapsed making this route very viable and easier to finish. Steep good quality neve throughout.
David Woods - Solo O/S - 08/Mar/15 with Adam Archibald, Euan Maharg
Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/Mar/15
morsy - AltLd - 21/Feb/15 with peter berwick
Pete23 - AltLd - 21/Feb/15 with Stephen Mors
a great gulley non better, worth soloing next time, cornices built up heavily on the right exit and frightening in size but escape left is very possible with no cornice, limited protection all the way and used an ice axe belay mid snow slope
drsdave - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/15 with Joel Harman
With novice winter climber. All but steepest pitch banked out and straight forward. Minimal gear. Decided to do the Gutter (III) on the right wall near top. This had good ice but steep and more like technical 4.
QuicNic - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/15
SteveM - AltLd - 21/Feb/15 with Aidan
lee1234 - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/15 with Neilmackie
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/15
Ryan23 - 20/Feb/15
MikeLell - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/15 with Doug Beaumont
Amy's first winter climb. Smiles all round.. even when i axed myself and got a nose bleed. I have left my mark.
peter.herd - Lead - 14/Feb/15 with Amy
My first ever winter climb, thoroughly enjoyed!
Amy Pritchett - 2nd - 14/Feb/15
djbeaumont - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15 with Mike L
Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/15
A great atmospheric gully. Variable conditions but good ice on the crux, which felt more like low grade III. Top half of the route mainly scoured neve and the cornice was avoidable on the left.
JamesRoddie - Solo O/S - 09/Feb/15
What a cool climb with amazing rock and cornice architecture!
Steven Andrews - AltLd - 29/Jan/15 with Nasta
Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jan/15
Callum_Johnson - Solo O/S - 04/Jan/15
bpw666 - 2nd O/S - 04/Jan/15 with Tim Croker
malone - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/15 with tom shaw
One move of III
clams - Lead - Dec/14 with Catherine
Hidden - Solo O/S - 12/Jan/14
illepo - 2nd O/S - 12/Jan/14
Rock solid snow for the mostpart, interesting getting through then over the cornice
Thoms6974 - Lead O/S - 12/Jan/14 with Fergus
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/14 with Andy
A consolation route after abseiling off Moonshadow. Moved together and did the main gully in 50 minutes. Then spent 3 hours getting through final 40 foot and cornice.....awful steep unconsolidated snow....a nightmare.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/14 with Martin Haworth
Led crux. Great route!
keith hal - AltLd O/S - 04/Mar/13 with Ian Lee-Bapty
Rather soggy in places but the crux ice was intact. Done as 3 pitches, led pitch 2 (crux). Nice route.
Fiona Reid - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Mike
Melting rapidly but enjoyable.
prog99 - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Fiona
Hidden - AltLd - 02/Mar/13
Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/13 with Rich Holt
StuDoig - AltLd rpt - 02/Feb/13 with Thilo, Billy
Hidden - 2nd O/S - Feb/13
Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jan/13
AC1 - 2013
Turkey powered! Great weather and conditions.
andyinglis - Lead O/S - 26/Dec/12 with mal meach
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Dec/12
Beautiful day, but oddly deserted! Unusually icy in parts, and a big cornice haha.
Zoe Cockburn - AltLd - 26/Dec/12
Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/12
Col Kingshott - AltLd - 28/Feb/12
tomosb - AltLd - 26/Feb/12 with Darren Thompson
Far nicer weather inside the gully than on top.
davidbeynon - AltLd - 17/Feb/12 with Chris B, Gavin N
Chris Banks - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/12 with Gavin N, Dave Beynon
tsjx - AltLd - 16/Feb/12 with Sandra, Neil
whistler - Solo O/S - 12/Feb/12
Anna_wells - 11/Feb/12 with TIM
Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/12
stefelafel - AltLd - 02/Feb/12
Tim_Gomersall - AltLd - Feb/12 with ANNA
Gavin L - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with Bob Allan, Rew Ferguson
Bob.allan - 2nd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with Gavin L, Rew ferguson
benighted after not manning up to the crux. possibly bad choice for first proper winter route, seemed very thin on the crux.
65m moderate millington - Lead dnf - 29/Jan/12 with rob harrison
Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Jan/12
Great climb ice was a bit broken but led all ice pitches.
Palomino1hills - Lead - 20/Jan/12 with Geoff
joeydurkin - Lead - 15/Jan/12 with Chris W
Great day. Crux sections were a bit thin. Great neve all the way up. 12 hours car to car so need to work on my efficiency.
Sutty22 - AltLd O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Dave
skirton - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Donald Slater
Hidden - Lead - 14/Jan/12
fall-line - 14/Jan/12 with Sarah Kirton
was a great day i miss doing the crux , there was no ice on it. so very interesting as they say in the guide book. So jerome lead both the crux and the small water fall 2/3 tne way up.
OZZY1962 - AltLd - 13/Jan/12 with JEROME
Hidden - 2012
Hidden - 2012
Hidden - 2012
Hidden - AltLd - 24/Dec/11
lots of running water. had a wobble, but was saved the faff of a retreat by some balls on my partners part. memorable!
BallsOfSteel - AltLd O/S - 24/Dec/11 with IainMunro
Ross L - 2nd - 05/Mar/11 with Duncan
ice pitch rather broken and hollow, care required. superb cornice exit to the left with cornice horror looking over on the right
abbeywall - AltLd - 05/Mar/11 with K
Crux completed, had to ab off due to deteriorating conditions. i.e. Avalanches...
stefelafel - 2nd - 03/Feb/11
ConorC - 2nd dnf - 28/Jan/11 with Fraser Gibson
1st trip to Lochnager - just awesome and what an atmosphere the place has....can't wait to be back..
Timo Austino - 23/Jan/11 with Nats
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/11
Tomek S - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11 with Grzesiek Weychan, Wojtek Polkowski
full value! very lean ice pitch partially collapsed making for some fun moves, cornice exit was steeeeep on moderately consolidated snow
MrRiley - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11 with Debbie Lee
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11
Wojttek - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11 with Tomek S
Lot snow on enter of the gully as well in the chimney.Ics was really tin on second icefall.Was like climbing egg shell with running water in the middle :) Perfect :) I really enjoy it. Very nice
(careful on strong winds and thick fog)
miro - Lead O/S - 18/Jan/11
Hidden - AltLd - 02/Jan/11
CacCarnBeag - 2nd - 02/Jan/11 with Stevie
Hidden - AltLd - 02/Jan/11
First winter lead.
stephenmckenzie - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/11
rosieposey14 - AltLd - 01/Jan/11 with ben ireland
benjaminireland - AltLd - 01/Jan/11 with rosieposey14
nia - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/11 with harry
Timo Austino - 2011
Hidden - AltLd - 14/Nov/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/10
Pete Main - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/10 with Andrew S
Ice ptch good, lots of Debris coming down tho.
Billy Burnside - Lead - 27/Mar/10
WilliamBurnside - Lead - 27/Mar/10 with Dave McGregor
Hidden - Lead - 13/Mar/10
Hidden - AltLd - 13/Mar/10
Hidden - Lead - 14/Feb/10
i wouldn't say it's a 3 star route
Harry Holmes - Lead - 13/Feb/10
not 4 stars
JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Tom Cowton, Harry Holmes
Tobes - Lead - Jan/10 with Alistair
Pete Main - 2010
Climbed with Jaz
kenneM - Lead - 19/Dec/09 with Jaz
Hidden - 13/Dec/09
Followed Kyle up, roped up for 2 icy sections, moving together for the rest and finishing up in the dark in fantastic weather
Thoms6974 - 2nd O/S - 13/Dec/09 with Joe, Kyle
johannes - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/09
calumalien - Lead - Dec/09 with Pops
Pitches 1 and 3.
oliverk - AltLd - 21/Mar/09 with Steve
Pitched over waterfall but moved together for the rest.
StuDoig - AltLd β - 22/Feb/09 with Dave
Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jan/09
What a way to start 2009!!! Never before has that gully witnessed such super chic climbers either ;)
iceicebaby - 2nd O/S - 01/Jan/09 with Andy Ruck
tubby two - Lead - Jan/09 with Lisa teaspoon
windy100 - 2009
Neilm18 - AltLd O/S - 31/Dec/08 with Alex Sweet
Elsier - 2nd O/S - 31/Dec/08 with Stuart
lyndseymackay - 31/Dec/08 with Malc
t_stork - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/08 with Marcus Brown
frecro - Lead - 30/Dec/08 with Zoe Thornton
Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/08 with Katharine
Katharine.eaton - 2nd O/S - 30/Dec/08 with Dom
Sandy Simpson - Solo - 29/Dec/08
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 26/Dec/08
michael83 - AltLd O/S - 26/Dec/08 with Mark, Aly
Hidden - 2nd - 16/Dec/08
lean and very icy all in all really good.
Sandy Simpson - AltLd - 29/Nov/08 with Forest Templeton
niall_mac - AltLd - Nov/08 with Mark R
Hidden - 2nd - 19/Apr/08
mark-abz - Lead - 15/Mar/08 with Alex
Lots of snow, but well consolidated so not major avalanche risk. Exited out onto Tough-Brown ridge (III and quite run out) to avoid the amphitheatre and large cornices.
ollythomas - 13/Mar/08 with Chris Hendron
1st gulley route, really enjoyabl.
ZoŽ - AltLd - 29/Feb/08 with Frecro
jonnie3430 - AltLd - 20/Jan/08 with The Root
TrollJester - AltLd O/S - 2008 with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's
smac - 2008
Hidden - Solo - 2008
Hidden - AltLd - 30/Dec/07
lots of ice but much of it destroyed, great route in great nick on a fantastic day. ran out of rope running the ice pitches together - oops
lithos - Lead - 30/Dec/07 with warwick andeson
Hidden - AltLd - 30/Dec/07
In 'early season' condition, with loads of ice, a fantastic grade III. And we had the route to ourselves somehow :-) Topped out into a bit of a hoolie at 4pm, and managed to make the descent even more exciting by heading off in the wrong direction. Back at the car about 7.30, thanks to S&D for hanging around for 90 minutes to drive us home!
Simon Caldwell - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/07 with Carmen
Hidden - AltLd - Dec/07
Interesting cornice exit, met and walked out with Freddie Malcolm, after his annual ascent of The Black Spout
Captain Solo - Solo - 09/Mar/07
Hidden - Lead - 18/Feb/07
Ice Spider - Lead - 06/Jan/07 with Bob Allan, Stewart
Bob.allan - 2nd - 06/Jan/07 with stewart, Jason Mitchell
mje1398 - 2nd - 02/Jan/07 with Steph+Duncan+Richard
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/06
s kennedy - AltLd O/S - Mar/06 with mark mosgrove
Perfect weather, thin conditions. Chokestone pitch on thin ice - probably III/IV.
DavPk - AltLd - 15/Jan/06 with Adam Henly
Chris L Hill - AltLd O/S - Jan/06 with Stuart Shaw
This climb was in good condition with plenty of ice on the crux. Defo done easier grade III climbs.
CurlyStevo - AltLd - 2006
sgl - Lead - 04/Feb/05 with Matt
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2005
Ice Spider - Lead - 2005 with Rew
Hidden - Mar/04
Dangerous Dave - Lead O/S - 2004
niall_mac - AltLd - Jan/02 with am_bodach
steveP - Solo O/S - Feb/01 with Paul Rowlands, Frank Popham
Robinl100 - 2nd O/S - 27/Jan/01 with Sam Barron
Hidden - AltLd - Feb/00
Andy Say - Lead - 08/Feb/99
Hidden - Lead - 1999
Hidden - AltLd - 13/Apr/98
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jan/98
climbed at least 5 times
oor wullie - 1998
Niall B - AltLd - Dec/96
Hidden - Mar/96
Hidden - AltLd - 10/Feb/95
Richard Weller - AltLd - 14/Jan/95 with Alec Keith
ill_bill - Lead - 1994
charlesmfrench - Solo O/S - 28/Mar/93 with Keith Milne
Hard neve and lean with exposed chock stone pitch on thin ice. worth a III 4 on the day
Yourlead - AltLd - 21/Feb/93 with Graham Penny
FrankW - AltLd O/S - Feb/93 with Roland K
Cutting the cornice was made memorable by Thomas' belay 40 mtrs below being a big hole he had dug and then sat in.
TobyA - AltLd O/S - Jan/93 with German Thomas
Hidden - Lead - 15/Dec/90
Stuart S - AltLd O/S - 13/Dec/87 with Jolyon Pickles
Worst conditions ever
rossn - AltLd - Feb/85
Hidden - Solo - 1985
sacdenouilles - Solo - Feb/81