Raeburn's Gully*** II
[Early season conditions at the start of Raeburn's Gully, 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, Winter Munroist's "Must Do", 3 star Scottish winter.

Photo: Early season conditions at the start of Raeburn's Gully © Carmen Elphick
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This climb is in 182 logbooks, and on 61 wishlists.

Hidden - Solo O/S - 18/Apr/15

picasso - Lead - 29/Mar/15

Pretty much banked out with an icy steepening as the 'crux'. Snow more cruddy towards the top & cornice easy to surmount on the left.
mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/15 with Steven Delderfield

Ross Barnes - Solo - 25/Mar/15

Very poor visibility. Condition good. Cornice at top nice and stable.
andymcronald - Solo - 16/Mar/15

Hidden - Lead - 14/Mar/15

Soloed some sections and was protected by a rope belay in others. Incredible route. The majority of the enormous cornice has collapsed making this route very viable and easier to finish. Steep good quality neve throughout.
David Woods - Solo O/S - 08/Mar/15 with Adam Archibald, Euan Maharg

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/Mar/15

morsy - AltLd - 21/Feb/15 with peter berwick

Pete23 - AltLd - 21/Feb/15 with Stephen Mors

a great gulley non better, worth soloing next time, cornices built up heavily on the right exit and frightening in size but escape left is very possible with no cornice, limited protection all the way and used an ice axe belay mid snow slope
drsdave - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/15 with Joel Harman

With novice winter climber. All but steepest pitch banked out and straight forward. Minimal gear. Decided to do the Gutter (III) on the right wall near top. This had good ice but steep and more like technical 4.
QuicNic - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/15

SteveM - AltLd - 21/Feb/15 with Aidan

lee1234 - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/15 with Neilmackie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/15

Ryan23 - 20/Feb/15

MikeLell - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/15 with Doug Beaumont

Amy's first winter climb. Smiles all round.. even when i axed myself and got a nose bleed. I have left my mark.
peter.herd - Lead - 14/Feb/15 with Amy

My first ever winter climb, thoroughly enjoyed!
Amy Pritchett - 2nd - 14/Feb/15 with peter.herd

djbeaumont - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15 with Mike L

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/15

A great atmospheric gully. Variable conditions but good ice on the crux, which felt more like low grade III. Top half of the route mainly scoured neve and the cornice was avoidable on the left.
JamesRoddie - Solo O/S - 09/Feb/15

What a cool climb with amazing rock and cornice architecture!
Steven Andrews - AltLd - 29/Jan/15 with Nasta

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jan/15

Callum_Johnson - Solo O/S - 04/Jan/15

bpw666 - 2nd O/S - 04/Jan/15 with Tim Croker

moving together
malone - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/15 with tom shaw

One move of III
clams - Lead - Dec/14 with Catherine

CatMc - 2nd - Dec/14 with clams

Hidden - Solo O/S - 12/Jan/14

illepo - 2nd O/S - 12/Jan/14

Rock solid snow for the mostpart, interesting getting through then over the cornice
Thoms6974 - Lead O/S - 12/Jan/14 with Fergus

Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/14 with Andy

A consolation route after abseiling off Moonshadow. Moved together and did the main gully in 50 minutes. Then spent 3 hours getting through final 40 foot and cornice.....awful steep unconsolidated snow....a nightmare.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/14 with Martin Haworth

Led crux. Great route!
keith hal - AltLd O/S - 04/Mar/13 with Ian Lee-Bapty

Rather soggy in places but the crux ice was intact. Done as 3 pitches, led pitch 2 (crux). Nice route.
Fiona Reid - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Mike

Melting rapidly but enjoyable.
Mike-W-99 - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Fiona

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Mar/13

Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/13 with Rich Holt

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 02/Feb/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jan/13

AC1 - 2013

Turkey powered! Great weather and conditions.
andyinglis - Lead O/S - 26/Dec/12 with mal meach

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Dec/12

Beautiful day, but oddly deserted! Unusually icy in parts, and a big cornice haha.
Zoe Cockburn - AltLd - 26/Dec/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/12

Col Kingshott - AltLd - 28/Feb/12

tomosb - AltLd - 26/Feb/12 with Darren Thompson

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Feb/12

Chris Banks - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/12 with Gavin N, Dave Beynon

tsjx - AltLd - 16/Feb/12 with Sandra, Neil

Good fun.
whistler - Solo O/S - 12/Feb/12

Anna_wells - 11/Feb/12 with TIM

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/12

stefelafel - AltLd - 02/Feb/12

Tim_Gomersall - AltLd - Feb/12 with ANNA

Palindrome - AltLd O/S - Feb/12

Gavin L - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with Bob Allan, Rew Ferguson

Bob.allan - 2nd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with Gavin L, Rew ferguson

benighted after not manning up to the crux. possibly bad choice for first proper winter route, seemed very thin on the crux.
65m moderate millington - Lead dnf - 29/Jan/12 with rob harrison

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Jan/12

Great climb ice was a bit broken but led all ice pitches.
Palomino1hills - Lead - 20/Jan/12 with Geoff

joeydurkin - Lead - 15/Jan/12 with Chris W

Great day. Crux sections were a bit thin. Great neve all the way up. 12 hours car to car so need to work on my efficiency.
Sutty22 - AltLd O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Dave

skirton - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Donald Slater

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jan/12

Bit thin!
fall-line - 14/Jan/12 with Sarah Kirton

was a great day i miss doing the crux , there was no ice on it. so very interesting as they say in the guide book. So jerome lead both the crux and the small water fall 2/3 tne way up.
OZZY1962 - AltLd - 13/Jan/12 with JEROME

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Dec/11

lots of running water. had a wobble, but was saved the faff of a retreat by some balls on my partners part. memorable!
BallsOfSteel - AltLd O/S - 24/Dec/11 with IainMunro

Ross L - 2nd - 05/Mar/11 with Duncan

ice pitch rather broken and hollow, care required. superb cornice exit to the left with cornice horror looking over on the right
abbeywall - AltLd - 05/Mar/11 with K

Crux completed, had to ab off due to deteriorating conditions. i.e. Avalanches...
stefelafel - 2nd - 03/Feb/11

ConorC - 2nd dnf - 28/Jan/11 with Fraser Gibson

1st trip to Lochnager - just awesome and what an atmosphere the place has....can't wait to be back..
Timo Austino - 23/Jan/11 with Nats

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/11

Tomek S - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11 with Grzesiek Weychan, Wojtek Polkowski

full value! very lean ice pitch partially collapsed making for some fun moves, cornice exit was steeeeep on moderately consolidated snow
MrRiley - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11 with Debbie Lee

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11

Wojttek - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11 with Tomek S

Lot snow on enter of the gully as well in the chimney.Ics was really tin on second icefall.Was like climbing egg shell with running water in the middle :) Perfect :) I really enjoy it. Very nice (careful on strong winds and thick fog)
miro - Lead O/S - 18/Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Jan/11

CacCarnBeag - 2nd - 02/Jan/11 with Stevie

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Jan/11

First winter lead.
stephenmckenzie - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/11

rosieposey14 - AltLd - 01/Jan/11 with ben ireland

benjaminireland - AltLd - 01/Jan/11 with rosieposey14

nia - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/11 with harry

Timo Austino - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Nov/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/10

Pete Main - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/10 with Andrew S

Ice ptch good, lots of Debris coming down tho.
Billy Burnside - Lead - 27/Mar/10

WilliamBurnside - Lead - 27/Mar/10 with Dave McGregor

Hidden - Lead - 13/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead - 14/Feb/10

i wouldn't say it's a 3 star route
Harry Holmes - Lead - 13/Feb/10

not 4 stars
JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Tom Cowton, Harry Holmes

Tobes - Lead - Jan/10 with Alistair

Pete Main - 2010

Climbed with Jaz
kenneM - Lead - 19/Dec/09 with Jaz

Hidden - 13/Dec/09

Followed Kyle up, roped up for 2 icy sections, moving together for the rest and finishing up in the dark in fantastic weather
Thoms6974 - 2nd O/S - 13/Dec/09 with Joe, Kyle

johannes - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/09

calumalien - Lead - Dec/09 with Pops

Pitches 1 and 3.
oliverk - AltLd - 21/Mar/09 with Steve

Hidden - AltLd β - 22/Feb/09

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jan/09

What a way to start 2009!!! Never before has that gully witnessed such super chic climbers either ;)
iceicebaby - 2nd O/S - 01/Jan/09 with Andy Ruck

tubby two - Lead - Jan/09 with Lisa teaspoon

windy100 - 2009

Neilm18 - AltLd O/S - 31/Dec/08 with Alex Sweet

Elsier - 2nd O/S - 31/Dec/08 with Stuart

lyndseymackay - 31/Dec/08 with Malc

t_stork - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/08 with Marcus Brown

frecro - Lead - 30/Dec/08 with Zoe Thornton

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/08 with Katharine

Katharine.eaton - 2nd O/S - 30/Dec/08 with Dom

Sandy Simpson - Solo - 29/Dec/08

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 26/Dec/08

michael83 - AltLd O/S - 26/Dec/08 with Mark, Aly

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Dec/08

lean and very icy all in all really good.
Sandy Simpson - AltLd - 29/Nov/08 with Forest Templeton

niall_mac - AltLd - Nov/08 with Mark R

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Apr/08

mark-abz - Lead - 15/Mar/08 with Alex

Lots of snow, but well consolidated so not major avalanche risk. Exited out onto Tough-Brown ridge (III and quite run out) to avoid the amphitheatre and large cornices.
ollythomas - 13/Mar/08 with Chris Hendron

1st gulley route, really enjoyabl.
ZoŽ - AltLd - 29/Feb/08 with Frecro

jonnie3430 - AltLd - 20/Jan/08 with The Root

TrollJester - AltLd O/S - 2008 with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's

smac - 2008

Hidden - Solo - 2008

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Dec/07

lots of ice but much of it destroyed, great route in great nick on a fantastic day. ran out of rope running the ice pitches together - oops
lithos - Lead - 30/Dec/07 with warwick andeson

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Dec/07

In 'early season' condition, with loads of ice, a fantastic grade III. And we had the route to ourselves somehow :-) Topped out into a bit of a hoolie at 4pm, and managed to make the descent even more exciting by heading off in the wrong direction. Back at the car about 7.30, thanks to S&D for hanging around for 90 minutes to drive us home!
Simon Caldwell - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/07 with Carmen

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/07

Interesting cornice exit, met and walked out with Freddie Malcolm, after his annual ascent of The Black Spout
Captain Solo - Solo - 09/Mar/07

Hidden - Lead - 18/Feb/07

Ice Spider - Lead - 06/Jan/07 with Bob Allan, Stewart

Bob.allan - 2nd - 06/Jan/07 with stewart, Jason Mitchell

mje1398 - 2nd - 02/Jan/07 with Steph+Duncan+Richard

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/06

s kennedy - AltLd O/S - Mar/06 with mark mosgrove

Perfect weather, thin conditions. Chokestone pitch on thin ice - probably III/IV.
DavPk - AltLd - 15/Jan/06 with Adam Henly

Chris L Hill - AltLd O/S - Jan/06 with Stuart Shaw

This climb was in good condition with plenty of ice on the crux. Defo done easier grade III climbs.
CurlyStevo - AltLd - 2006

sgl - Lead - 04/Feb/05 with Matt

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2005

Ice Spider - Lead - 2005 with Rew

Hidden - Mar/04

Dangerous Dave - Lead O/S - 2004

niall_mac - AltLd - Jan/02 with am_bodach

steveP - Solo O/S - Feb/01 with Paul Rowlands, Frank Popham

Robinl100 - 2nd O/S - 27/Jan/01 with Sam Barron

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/00

Andy Say - Lead - 08/Feb/99

Hidden - Lead - 1999

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Apr/98

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jan/98

climbed at least 5 times
oor wullie - 1998

Niall B - AltLd - Dec/96

Smith42 - Mar/96

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Feb/95

Richard Weller - AltLd - 14/Jan/95 with Alec Keith

ill_bill - Lead - 1994

charlesmfrench - Solo O/S - 28/Mar/93 with Keith Milne

Hard neve and lean with exposed chock stone pitch on thin ice. worth a III 4 on the day
Yourlead - AltLd - 21/Feb/93 with Graham Penny

FrankW - AltLd O/S - Feb/93 with Roland K

Cutting the cornice was made memorable by Thomas' belay 40 mtrs below being a big hole he had dug and then sat in.
TobyA - AltLd O/S - Jan/93 with German Thomas

Hidden - Lead - 15/Dec/90

Stuart S - AltLd O/S - 13/Dec/87 with Jolyon Pickles

Hidden - AltLd - 1986

Worst conditions ever
rossn - AltLd - Feb/85

Hidden - Solo - 1985

sacdenouilles - Solo - Feb/81

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
IainMay, WhipperSnapper, Tim Harper, markneilly346, Turnertower, Pluto, Chris Homewood (Swindon MC), johnkeith, joe hallam, Manix, SkylarLobdell, CMCM, Jon Pilling, CM1992, forcan, Hoyes, alias dave, StuMsg, sbc_10, iksander, Happy Haggis, sarah hawker, Martin85, Billy Walker - Bad Seller, Dustin, daWalt, telemarker, Terrance Glancy, riven, kevburr, Batt, jandyd05, ckmoffat, punj, rusty_nails, Neil Mackenzie, Rowie B, Tobias at Home

Total votes cast 97
hard II/III2 of 48
II/III3 of 48
easy II/III28 of 48
hard II7 of 48
II5 of 48
easy II2 of 48
hard I/II1 of 48
I/II0 of 48
easy I/II0 of 48
3 Stars34 of 49
2 Stars12 of 49
1 Star3 of 49
0 Stars0 of 49
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