Hidden 18/Apr Solo O/S
picasso 29/Mar Lead
mikedelderfield 29/Mar AltLd O/S

Pretty much banked out with an icy steepening as the 'crux'. Snow more cruddy towards the top & cornice easy to surmount on the left.

Ross Barnes 25/Mar Solo
andymcronald 16/Mar Solo

Very poor visibility. Condition good. Cornice at top nice and stable.

Hidden 14/Mar Lead
David Woods 08/Mar Solo O/S

Soloed some sections and was protected by a rope belay in others. Incredible route. The majority of the enormous cornice has collapsed making this route very viable and easier to finish. Steep good quality neve throughout.

with Adam Archibald, Euan Maharg
adamarchie 08/Mar Solo O/S

Headed in to have a look at Polyphemus Gully after a big thaw (plus rain in the west, hence going east) and quick overnight freeze. Very cruddy ice poorly bonded to the underlying rock thanks to intervening flowing water! I took a tool-less slide from the gear-up (amid much "fuck!" "fuck!" "fuck!") but fortunately came to a halt after 8 or 9 metres. We went to look at Raeburn's as a consolation prize and it turned out to be an absolute beauty! The first ice step was a bit hollow underneath, but otherwise it was great neve all the way, with the odd bit of ice. Stunning place, hidden out of sight, perfectly sheltered and with amazing views out to the north of Deeside in the sun. Just perfect. And beautiful cornice architecture. (The majority had come down in the thaw, along with the loose stuff, probably a couple of days previously. Debris almost all the way to the lochside...) Top-out at golden hour was stunning. Sit-down fish and chips in Ballater was very decent, especially at £6.50, and the Tech Machines made a brilliant - if unconventional - debut. Monopoints felt a bit less secure than mountaineering crampons but were fine.

morsy 21/Feb AltLd
with peter berwick
Pete23 21/Feb AltLd
with Stephen Mors
drsdave 21/Feb Lead O/S

a great gulley non better, worth soloing next time, cornices built up heavily on the right exit and frightening in size but escape left is very possible with no cornice, limited protection all the way and used an ice axe belay mid snow slope

with Joel Harman
QuicNic 21/Feb Lead O/S

With novice winter climber. All but steepest pitch banked out and straight forward. Minimal gear. Decided to do the Gutter (III) on the right wall near top. This had good ice but steep and more like technical 4.

SteveM 21/Feb AltLd
with Aidan
lee1234 20/Feb AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Feb AltLd O/S
Ryan23 20/Feb -
theplacelives 20/Feb AltLd
MikeLell 15/Feb AltLd O/S
with Doug Beaumont
peter.herd 14/Feb Lead

Amy's first winter climb. Smiles all round.. even when i axed myself and got a nose bleed. I have left my mark.

with Amy
Amy Pritchett 14/Feb 2nd

My first ever winter climb, thoroughly enjoyed!

djbeaumont 14/Feb AltLd O/S
with Mike L
Hidden 14/Feb Lead O/S
JamesRoddie 09/Feb Solo O/S

A great atmospheric gully. Variable conditions but good ice on the crux, which felt more like low grade III. Top half of the route mainly scoured neve and the cornice was avoidable on the left.

Steven Andrews 29/Jan AltLd

What a cool climb with amazing rock and cornice architecture!

with Nasta
Hidden 27/Jan AltLd
Callum_Johnson 04/Jan Solo O/S
bpw666 04/Jan 2nd O/S
with Tim Croker
malone 02/Jan AltLd O/S

moving together

with tom shaw
PLM ??/2015 AltLd O/S

Moved together, the cold had returned but not enough to freeze the ice pitch properly following a few mild days, made it rather (aka very) exciting.

with Liam
clams ?/Dec/14 Lead

One move of III

CatMc ?/Dec/14 2nd
with clams
Hidden 12/Jan/14 Solo O/S
illepo 12/Jan/14 2nd O/S
Thoms6974 12/Jan/14 Lead O/S

Rock solid snow for the mostpart, interesting getting through then over the cornice

with Fergus
Martin Haworth 11/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 11/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

A consolation route after abseiling off Moonshadow. Moved together and did the main gully in 50 minutes. Then spent 3 hours getting through final 40 foot and cornice.....awful steep unconsolidated snow....a nightmare.

keith hal 04/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Led crux. Great route!

with Ian Lee-Bapty
Fiona Reid 02/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Rather soggy in places but the crux ice was intact. Done as 3 pitches, led pitch 2 (crux). Nice route.

with Mike
Mike-W-99 02/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Melting rapidly but enjoyable.

with Fiona
Hidden 02/Mar/13 AltLd
Roger Cruse 21/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Rich Holt
Hidden 02/Feb/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden ?/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jan/13 AltLd
AC1 ??/2013 -
andyinglis 26/Dec/12 Lead O/S

Turkey powered! Great weather and conditions.

with mal meach
Hidden 26/Dec/12 2nd O/S
Zoe Cockburn 26/Dec/12 AltLd

Beautiful day, but oddly deserted! Unusually icy in parts, and a big cornice haha.

Hidden 07/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Col Kingshott 28/Feb/12 AltLd
tomosb 26/Feb/12 AltLd
with Darren Thompson
Hidden 17/Feb/12 AltLd
Chris Banks 17/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with Gavin N, Dave Beynon
tsjx 16/Feb/12 AltLd
with Sandra, Neil
whistler 12/Feb/12 Solo O/S

Good fun.

Anna_wells 11/Feb/12 -
with TIM
Hidden 03/Feb/12 Lead O/S
stefelafel 02/Feb/12 AltLd
Tim_Gomersall ?/Feb/12 AltLd
with ANNA
Palindrome ?/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Gavin L 29/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
with Bob Allan, Rew Ferguson
Bob.allan 29/Jan/12 2nd O/S
with Gavin L, Rew ferguson
65m moderate millington 29/Jan/12 Lead dnf

benighted after not manning up to the crux. possibly bad choice for first proper winter route, seemed very thin on the crux.

Hidden 29/Jan/12 Lead dnf
Palomino1hills 20/Jan/12 Lead

Great climb ice was a bit broken but led all ice pitches.

with Geoff
joeydurkin 15/Jan/12 Lead
with Chris W
Sutty22 15/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Great day. Crux sections were a bit thin. Great neve all the way up. 12 hours car to car so need to work on my efficiency.

with Dave
skirton 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jan/12 Lead
fall-line 14/Jan/12 -

Bit thin!

with Sarah Kirton
OZZY1962 13/Jan/12 AltLd

was a great day i miss doing the crux , there was no ice on it. so very interesting as they say in the guide book. So jerome lead both the crux and the small water fall 2/3 tne way up.

Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 24/Dec/11 AltLd
BallsOfSteel 24/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

lots of running water. had a wobble, but was saved the faff of a retreat by some balls on my partners part. memorable!

Ross L 05/Mar/11 2nd
with Duncan
abbeywall 05/Mar/11 AltLd

ice pitch rather broken and hollow, care required. superb cornice exit to the left with cornice horror looking over on the right

with K
stefelafel 03/Feb/11 2nd

Crux completed, had to ab off due to deteriorating conditions. i.e. Avalanches...

ConorC 28/Jan/11 2nd dnf
Timo Austino 23/Jan/11 -

1st trip to Lochnager - just awesome and what an atmosphere the place has....can't wait to be back..

with Nats
Hidden 23/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Tomek S 22/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
MrRiley 22/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

full value! very lean ice pitch partially collapsed making for some fun moves, cornice exit was steeeeep on moderately consolidated snow

Hidden 22/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Wojttek 22/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with Tomek S
miro 18/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Lot snow on enter of the gully as well in the chimney.Ics was really tin on second icefall.Was like climbing egg shell with running water in the middle :) Perfect :) I really enjoy it. Very nice (careful on strong winds and thick fog)

Hidden 02/Jan/11 AltLd
CacCarnBeag 02/Jan/11 2nd
with Stevie
Hidden 02/Jan/11 AltLd
stephenmckenzie 02/Jan/11 Lead O/S

First winter lead.

rosieposey14 01/Jan/11 AltLd
with ben ireland
benjaminireland 01/Jan/11 AltLd
nia 01/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with harry
Timo Austino ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Hidden 14/Nov/10 AltLd
Hidden 19/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Pete Main 19/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Andrew S
Billy Burnside 27/Mar/10 Lead

Ice ptch good, lots of Debris coming down tho.

WilliamBurnside 27/Mar/10 Lead
with Dave McGregor
Hidden 13/Mar/10 Lead
Hidden 13/Mar/10 AltLd
Hidden 14/Feb/10 Lead
Harry Holmes 13/Feb/10 Lead

i wouldn't say it's a 3 star route

JamieSparkes 13/Feb/10 2nd O/S

not 4 stars

with Tom Cowton, Harry Holmes
Tobes ?/Jan/10 Lead
with Alistair
Pete Main ??/2010 -
kenneM 19/Dec/09 Lead

Climbed with Jaz

with Jaz
Hidden 13/Dec/09 -
Thoms6974 13/Dec/09 2nd O/S

Followed Kyle up, roped up for 2 icy sections, moving together for the rest and finishing up in the dark in fantastic weather

with Joe, Kyle
johannes 12/Dec/09 Lead O/S
calumalien ?/Dec/09 Lead
with Pops
oliverk 21/Mar/09 AltLd

Pitches 1 and 3.

with Steve
Hidden 22/Feb/09 AltLd β
Hidden 01/Jan/09 AltLd
iceicebaby 01/Jan/09 2nd O/S

What a way to start 2009!!! Never before has that gully witnessed such super chic climbers either ;)

tubby two ?/Jan/09 Lead
with Lisa teaspoon
windy100 ??/2009 -
Neilm18 31/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
with Alex Sweet
Elsier 31/Dec/08 2nd O/S
with Stuart
lyndseymackay 31/Dec/08 -
with Malc
t_stork 30/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Marcus Brown
frecro 30/Dec/08 Lead
with Zoe Thornton
Somerset swede basher 30/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Katharine
Katharine.eaton 30/Dec/08 2nd O/S
with Dom
Sandy Simpson 29/Dec/08 Solo
Hidden 26/Dec/08 AltLd rpt
michael83 26/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
with Mark, Aly
Hidden 16/Dec/08 2nd
Sandy Simpson 29/Nov/08 AltLd

lean and very icy all in all really good.

with Forest Templeton
niall_mac ?/Nov/08 AltLd
with Mark R
Hidden 19/Apr/08 2nd
mark-abz 15/Mar/08 Lead
with Alex
ollythomas 13/Mar/08 -

Lots of snow, but well consolidated so not major avalanche risk. Exited out onto Tough-Brown ridge (III and quite run out) to avoid the amphitheatre and large cornices.

with Chris Hendron
ZoŽ 29/Feb/08 AltLd

1st gulley route, really enjoyabl.

with Frecro
jonnie3430 20/Jan/08 AltLd
with The Root
TrollJester ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's
smac ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Solo
Hidden 30/Dec/07 AltLd
lithos 30/Dec/07 Lead

lots of ice but much of it destroyed, great route in great nick on a fantastic day. ran out of rope running the ice pitches together - oops

with warwick andeson
Hidden 30/Dec/07 AltLd
Simon Caldwell 29/Dec/07 Lead O/S

In 'early season' condition, with loads of ice, a fantastic grade III. And we had the route to ourselves somehow :-) Topped out into a bit of a hoolie at 4pm, and managed to make the descent even more exciting by heading off in the wrong direction. Back at the car about 7.30, thanks to S&D for hanging around for 90 minutes to drive us home!

with Carmen
Hidden ?/Dec/07 AltLd
Captain Solo 09/Mar/07 Solo

Interesting cornice exit, met and walked out with Freddie Malcolm, after his annual ascent of The Black Spout

Hidden 18/Feb/07 Lead
Ice Spider 06/Jan/07 Lead
with Bob Allan, Stewart
Bob.allan 06/Jan/07 2nd
with stewart, Jason Mitchell
mje1398 02/Jan/07 2nd
with Steph+Duncan+Richard
Hidden ?/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
s kennedy ?/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
with mark mosgrove
DavPk 15/Jan/06 AltLd

Perfect weather, thin conditions. Chokestone pitch on thin ice - probably III/IV.

with Adam Henly
Chris L Hill ?/Jan/06 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Shaw
CurlyStevo ??/2006 AltLd

This climb was in good condition with plenty of ice on the crux. Defo done easier grade III climbs.

lost.arrow 14/Feb/05 -
with Stu Sherwood
sgl 04/Feb/05 Lead
with Matt
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Ice Spider ??/2005 Lead
with Rew
Hidden ?/Mar/04 -
Dangerous Dave ??/2004 Lead O/S
niall_mac ?/Jan/02 AltLd
steveP ?/Feb/01 Solo O/S
with Paul Rowlands, Frank Popham
Robinl100 27/Jan/01 2nd O/S
with Sam Barron
Hidden ?/Feb/00 AltLd
Andy Say 08/Feb/99 Lead
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
Hidden 13/Apr/98 AltLd
Hidden 31/Jan/98 AltLd O/S
oor wullie ??/1998 -

climbed at least 5 times

Niall B ?/Dec/96 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/96 -
Hidden 10/Feb/95 AltLd
Richard Weller 14/Jan/95 AltLd
with Alec Keith
ill_bill ??/1994 Lead
charlesmfrench 28/Mar/93 Solo O/S
with Keith Milne
Yourlead 21/Feb/93 AltLd

Hard neve and lean with exposed chock stone pitch on thin ice. worth a III 4 on the day

with Graham Penny
FrankW ?/Feb/93 AltLd O/S
with Roland K
TobyA ?/Jan/93 AltLd O/S

Cutting the cornice was made memorable by Thomas' belay 40 mtrs below being a big hole he had dug and then sat in.

with German Thomas
Hidden 15/Dec/90 Lead
Stuart S 13/Dec/87 AltLd O/S
with Jolyon Pickles
Hidden ??/1986 AltLd
rossn ?/Feb/85 AltLd

Worst conditions ever

Hidden ??/1985 Solo
sacdenouilles ?/Feb/81 Solo
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Votes cast 48
Votes cast 49
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Not Set