Raeburn's Gully*** II
[approach to first pitch, 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, Winter Munroist's "Must Do".

Photo: approach to first pitch © MrRiley
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 148 logbooks, and on 49 wishlists.

Hidden - Solo O/S - 12/Jan/14

illepo - 2nd O/S - 12/Jan/14

Rock solid snow for the mostpart, interesting getting through then over the cornice
Thoms6974 - Lead O/S - 12/Jan/14 with Fergus

Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/14 with Andy

A consolation route after abseiling off Moonshadow. Moved together and did the main gully in 50 minutes. Then spent 3 hours getting through final 40 foot and cornice.....awful steep unconsolidated snow....a nightmare.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/14 with Martin Haworth

Led crux. Great route!
keith hal - AltLd O/S - 04/Mar/13 with Ian Lee-Bapty

Rather soggy in places but the crux ice was intact. Done as 3 pitches, led pitch 2 (crux). Nice route.
Fiona Reid - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Mike

Melting rapidly but enjoyable.
prog99 - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Fiona

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Mar/13

Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/13 with Rich Holt

StuDoig - AltLd rpt - 02/Feb/13 with Thilo, Billy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jan/13

AC1 - 2013

Turkey powered! Great weather and conditions.
andyinglis - Lead O/S - 26/Dec/12 with mal meach

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Dec/12

Beautiful day, but oddly deserted! Unusually icy in parts, and a big cornice haha.
Zoe Cockburn - AltLd - 26/Dec/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/12

Col Kingshott - AltLd - 28/Feb/12

tomosb - AltLd - 26/Feb/12 with Darren Thompson

Far nicer weather inside the gully than on top.
davidbeynon - AltLd - 17/Feb/12 with Chris B, Gavin N

Chris Banks - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/12 with Gavin N, Dave Beynon

tsjx - AltLd - 16/Feb/12 with Sandra, Neil

Good fun.
whistler - Solo O/S - 12/Feb/12

Anna_wells - 11/Feb/12 with TIM

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/12

stefelafel - AltLd - 02/Feb/12

Tim_Gomersall - AltLd - Feb/12 with ANNA

Gavin L - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with Bob Allan, Rew Ferguson

Bob.allan - 2nd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with Gavin L, Rew ferguson

benighted after not manning up to the crux. possibly bad choice for first proper winter route, seemed very thin on the crux.
65m moderate millington - Lead dnf - 29/Jan/12 with rob harrison

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Jan/12

Great climb ice was a bit broken but led all ice pitches.
Palomino1hills - Lead - 20/Jan/12 with Geoff

joeydurkin - Lead - 15/Jan/12 with Chris W

Great day. Crux sections were a bit thin. Great neve all the way up. 12 hours car to car so need to work on my efficiency.
Sutty22 - AltLd O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Dave

skirton - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Donald Slater

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jan/12

Bit thin!
fall-line - 14/Jan/12 with Sarah Kirton

was a great day i miss doing the crux , there was no ice on it. so very interesting as they say in the guide book. So jerome lead both the crux and the small water fall 2/3 tne way up.
OZZY1962 - AltLd - 13/Jan/12 with JEROME

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Dec/11

lots of running water. had a wobble, but was saved the faff of a retreat by some balls on my partners part. memorable!
BallsOfSteel - AltLd O/S - 24/Dec/11 with IainMunro

Ross L - 2nd - 05/Mar/11 with Duncan

ice pitch rather broken and hollow, care required. superb cornice exit to the left with cornice horror looking over on the right
abbeywall - AltLd - 05/Mar/11 with K

Crux completed, had to ab off due to deteriorating conditions. i.e. Avalanches...
stefelafel - 2nd - 03/Feb/11

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 28/Jan/11

1st trip to Lochnager - just awesome and what an atmosphere the place has....can't wait to be back..
Timo Austino - 23/Jan/11 with Nats

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/11

Tomek S - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11 with Grzesiek Weychan, Wojtek Polkowski

full value! very lean ice pitch partially collapsed making for some fun moves, cornice exit was steeeeep on moderately consolidated snow
MrRiley - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11 with Debbie Lee

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11

Wojttek - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11 with Tomek S

Lot snow on enter of the gully as well in the chimney.Ics was really tin on second icefall.Was like climbing egg shell with running water in the middle :) Perfect :) I really enjoy it. Very nice (careful on strong winds and thick fog)
miro - Lead O/S - 18/Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Jan/11

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Jan/11

First winter lead.
stephenmckenzie - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/11

rosieposey14 - AltLd - 01/Jan/11 with ben ireland

benjaminireland - AltLd - 01/Jan/11 with rosieposey14

nia - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/11 with harry

Timo Austino - 2011

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Nov/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/10

Pete Main - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/10 with Andrew S

Ice ptch good, lots of Debris coming down tho.
Billy Burnside - Lead - 27/Mar/10

WilliamBurnside - Lead - 27/Mar/10 with Dave McGregor

Hidden - Lead - 13/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead - 14/Feb/10

i wouldn't say it's a 3 star route
Harry Holmes - Lead - 13/Feb/10

not 4 stars
JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Tom Cowton, Harry Holmes

Tobes - Lead - Jan/10 with Alistair

Pete Main - 2010

Climbed with Jaz
kenneM - Lead - 19/Dec/09 with Jaz

Hidden - 13/Dec/09

Followed Kyle up, roped up for 2 icy sections, moving together for the rest and finishing up in the dark in fantastic weather
Thoms6974 - 2nd O/S - 13/Dec/09 with Joe, Kyle

johannes - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/09

calumalien - Lead - Dec/09 with Pops

Pitches 1 and 3.
oliverk - AltLd - 21/Mar/09 with Steve

Pitched over waterfall but moved together for the rest.
StuDoig - AltLd β - 22/Feb/09 with Dave

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jan/09

What a way to start 2009!!! Never before has that gully witnessed such super chic climbers either ;)
iceicebaby - 2nd O/S - 01/Jan/09 with Andy Ruck

tubby two - Lead - Jan/09 with Lisa teaspoon

windy100 - 2009

Neilm18 - AltLd O/S - 31/Dec/08 with Alex Sweet

Elsier - 2nd O/S - 31/Dec/08 with Stuart

lyndseymackay - 31/Dec/08 with Malc

t_stork - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/08 with Marcus Brown

frecro - Lead - 30/Dec/08 with Zoe Thornton

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/08 with Katharine

Katharine.eaton - 2nd O/S - 30/Dec/08 with Dom

Sandy Simpson - Solo - 29/Dec/08

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 26/Dec/08

michael83 - AltLd O/S - 26/Dec/08 with Mark, Aly

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Dec/08

lean and very icy all in all really good.
Sandy Simpson - AltLd - 29/Nov/08 with Forest Templeton

niall_mac - AltLd - Nov/08 with Mark R

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Apr/08

mark-abz - Lead - 15/Mar/08 with Alex

Lots of snow, but well consolidated so not major avalanche risk. Exited out onto Tough-Brown ridge (III and quite run out) to avoid the amphitheatre and large cornices.
ollythomas - 13/Mar/08 with Chris Hendron

1st gulley route, really enjoyabl.
ZoŽ - AltLd - 29/Feb/08 with Frecro

jonnie3430 - AltLd - 20/Jan/08 with The Root

TrollJester - AltLd O/S - 2008 with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's

smac - 2008

Hidden - Solo - 2008

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Dec/07

lots of ice but much of it destroyed, great route in great nick on a fantastic day. ran out of rope running the ice pitches together - oops
lithos - Lead - 30/Dec/07 with warwick andeson

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Dec/07

In 'early season' condition, with loads of ice, a fantastic grade III. And we had the route to ourselves somehow :-) Topped out into a bit of a hoolie at 4pm, and managed to make the descent even more exciting by heading off in the wrong direction. Back at the car about 7.30, thanks to S&D for hanging around for 90 minutes to drive us home!
Simon Caldwell - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/07 with Carmen

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/07

Interesting cornice exit, met and walked out with Freddie Malcolm, after his annual ascent of The Black Spout
Captain Solo - Solo - 09/Mar/07

Hidden - Lead - 18/Feb/07

Ice Spider - Lead - 06/Jan/07 with Bob Allan, Stewart

Bob.allan - 2nd - 06/Jan/07 with stewart, Jason Mitchell

mje1398 - 2nd - 02/Jan/07 with Steph+Duncan+Richard

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/06

s kennedy - AltLd O/S - Mar/06 with mark mosgrove

Perfect weather, thin conditions. Chokestone pitch on thin ice - probably III/IV.
DavPk - AltLd - 15/Jan/06 with Adam Henly

Chris L Hill - AltLd O/S - Jan/06 with Stuart Shaw

This climb was in good condition with plenty of ice on the crux. Defo done easier grade III climbs.
CurlyStevo - AltLd - 2006

sgl - Lead - 04/Feb/05 with Matt

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2005

Ice Spider - Lead - 2005 with Rew

Hidden - Mar/04

Dangerous Dave - Lead O/S - 2004

niall_mac - AltLd - Jan/02 with am_bodach

steveP - Solo O/S - Feb/01 with Paul Rowlands, Frank Popham

Robinl100 - 2nd O/S - 27/Jan/01 with Sam Barron

Andy Say - Lead - 08/Feb/99

bandersnatch - Lead - 1999

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Apr/98

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jan/98

climbed at least 5 times
oor wullie - 1998

Niall B - AltLd - Dec/96

Smith42 - Mar/96

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Feb/95

Richard Weller - AltLd - 14/Jan/95 with Alec Keith

ill_bill - Lead - 1994

charlesmfrench - Solo O/S - 28/Mar/93 with Keith Milne

Hard neve and lean with exposed chock stone pitch on thin ice. worth a III 4 on the day
Yourlead - AltLd - 21/Feb/93 with Graham Penny

FrankW - AltLd O/S - Feb/93 with Roland K

Cutting the cornice was made memorable by Thomas' belay 40 mtrs below being a big hole he had dug and then sat in.
TobyA - AltLd O/S - Jan/93 with German Thomas

Stuart S - AltLd O/S - 13/Dec/87 with Jolyon Pickles

Worst conditions ever
rossn - AltLd - Feb/85

Hidden - Solo - 1985

sacdenouilles - Solo - Feb/81

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
SkylarLobdell, CMCM, Jon Pilling, CM1992, forcan, Hoyes, Siobhann, alias dave, aldo56, StuMsg, sbc_10, iksander, Happy Haggis, sarah hawker, Martin85, Billy Walker - Bad Seller, Dustin, daWalt, telemarker, Terrance Glancy, riven, kevburr, Batt, jandyd05, ckmoffat, punj, rusty_nails, Neil Mackenzie, Rowie B, Tobias at Home

Voting
Total votes cast 84
hard II/III1 of 42
II/III1 of 42
easy II/III27 of 42
hard II6 of 42
II4 of 42
easy II2 of 42
hard I/II1 of 42
I/II0 of 42
easy I/II0 of 42
3 Stars29 of 42
2 Stars10 of 42
1 Star3 of 42
0 Stars0 of 42
Bag of .....0 of 42
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Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
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Clean O/S
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dnf