14m. A short fingery wall leads to bulges (large cams) which are tackled leftwards then right using the nostril-like pockets. The right-hand exit is the stretchy Ginger Whinger, E7 7a. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start between Parsons' and Frankland's, climb to the curving break. Climb over this to the left, then using the nostrils climb to the top.
John Syrett, Al Manson. 01/May/1973
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Last couple of moves. Will be back for this!
|scott quinn||20/Sep||Lead O/S||
good route, really safe
Misread the final moves
|andy jennings||17/Sep||2nd β||
Very bouldery! For me this was the easiest of the 'big three'.
Just got the crimps before the rain hit, left gear in after previous attempt, smashing finish!
|david morse||23/Jul||Lead β||
Flashed on Tom's gear. The easiest of the 3 by far, if you know what to do. I was shitting it at the top after all the tales of 10m lobs but fortunately it went fine. Second of the three for me.
|Mike Todd||23/Jul||Lead RP||
Second go clean. Brilliant route and the top out wasn't as hard and scary as I was expecting.
fell off on onsight, left ropes in, went clean 2nd go.
|Mike Todd||17/Jul||Lead dnf|
|tim newton||23/Jun||Lead β|
|Rachel Slater||23/Jun||2nd O/S|
|Dave Mayes||19/Jun||Lead O/S||
Great route, first E3 onsight
|Matt Cooke||21/Apr||Lead β||
|Duncan Campbell||18/Oct/14||Lead G/U||
Fell off the top having not looked at the top holds last saturday. This time went and cleaned and chalked the hold over the top - good job as it was a tad wet! Awesome route, my fave on grit to date. Well psyched.
Flo, Stadders, Bubbles
|Duncan Campbell||11/Oct/14||Lead dnf||
Took the lob from the top at the end of the day, would go back and brush the top and locate top holds. Very intimidating but relatively reasonable climbing up to the top section, though the first bit is technical and bold feeling. Ace lob from the top of the crag to the almost the bottom!
Top roped with Paul. I fell off twice before finishing, he did it clean with my chalk to follow! One for next time. Reachy and bold but actually not that hard once you know what's coming.
A very tough day !
Excellent! Fell off this last year but clean on first go tonight. If you're not too tall like me then crux definitely feels like 6a (as new Yorkshire Guide gives it.) Really great top out well above your gear, although gear is absolutely bomber. *** star route
Underestimated this, so glad to have got to the top without taking the massive lob.
|lanky and weak||24/Sep/13||Lead rpt||
|James Oswald||21/Sep/13||Lead RP||
First go I committed to the moves, switched hands on the pocket then got slightly scared moving above my gear. 2nd go went well and felt much more relaxed. Matching on the pocket is really hard! AMazing route.
Chris Mullaney, Kyle Wood
|Malcolm Bass||20/Aug/13||Lead O/S||
|Sophie Nunn||11/Aug/13||2nd dog|
|lanky and weak||25/Jun/13||Lead O/S||
Certainly keeps coming at you...
Got the pocket-match move wrong and had to repeat that move. Great route! Left gear in-situ for next leader & then seconded again to clean route.
Nice and great route
Awesome route, brilliant!
|Dave Warburton||24/Jun/12||Lead β||
Second of the three. Excellent. Huge side winds made it interesting! On Conors gear.
2nd go - you go a long way if you fluff the top, a very fun route
Not sure how to log this.. Lobbed off floundering for the top, didn't bother pulling ropes but climbed it next go. Top-rope to the knee-bar then lead after? Definitely 6a moves!
Scary green topout!
|Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor||??/2011||-|
|Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing||??/2011||-||
|Andrew Barker||21/Sep/10||Lead β||
Great stuff. Pretty much onsight but I had seen the top while I was belaying at the top of Overhanging Groove. Bold technical start followed by a more strenuous but well-protected finish.
bit too casual - just popped off at the top. got it easily next go.
On shunt, messed up the top-out
even better than I remember it from a couple of years ago
Al & Hannah
|Alex Mason||30/Jun/08||Lead rpt||
bottled it first go from top crimp, returned to deck, got it next go easily. think lack of trad and confidence hindered clean ascent
Steve and Hannah
Got to the top pocket 3 times, chickened out 3 times. Downclimbed to the ground, so still ok for the O/S!
Took a massive fall from this route last year, felt nervous this time but it was over mercifully quickly. Finished direct.
|Will Hunt||25/Nov/07||2nd O/S||
Not as difficult as I thought it would be but with possibly the worst top out Ive ever seen. Sean jettisoned the remainder of his rack before going for the crux so I had to second it with all that gear in tow.
One rest after failing to work out the top first go.
Andy and Bob
25ft fall from the top. Gutted.
one fall from the top, annoying, as it was not too bad the second go. I blame bad beta!
Exciting. Hard for the grade ?
1st effort had to slap for top - held it for a scond but too greasy so took the lob and blew the onsight! 10 mins later; second effort - chalked up pre-crux properly and it felt class, went nice and static. Biggest fall to date.
|Chris Reid||11/Sep/01||Lead O/S||
|Rich Kirby||28/Jul/98||Lead rpt||
|Jon Read||?/May/98||Lead O/S||
|John Southworth||08/May/96||Lead rpt||
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||?/Oct/92||Lead|
|Rich Kirby||?/Mar/90||Lead O/S||
|Southern Mark Smith||??/1990||Lead RP||
|Dave Musgrove||18/Apr/85||Lead β|