Rockfax Description
The entry level introduction to the steepness at Lower Pen Trwyn, which has a bit of everything including - a bouldery start, an arm-sapping traverse and a heartbreaking finale exiting the groove at the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Classic UK F7s, North Wales Sport Climbing, North Wales Limestone Sport 7s.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 21/May Lead RP

Never got round to doing this whilst I lived in Wales, so nice to go back and do it quickly. Need to do Alberta Rose and Release the Hounds now to complete the 'Big 4' 7cs.

NDD 02/May Lead RP

Wanted to do this for ages. Tricky one!

owain86 16/Apr Lead dog
with Pablo
Hidden 07/Sep/15 Lead RP
cjsheps 09/Aug/15 Lead RP

Tried in 2013 and found really hard. Nearly retroflashed it today, and did it next go.

Hidden 31/Jul/15 Lead RP
DDDD 30/Jul/15 Lead RP

Finally - so good to top out.

with Sham
Dan724 30/Jun/15 Lead RP
with Brendan Fraser, Al Willman, James Williams
Hidden 30/Jun/15 Lead
OERees 10/Jun/15 Lead dog
Tom Livingstone 03/Jun/15 Lead rpt


with Alex
Haydn Jones 04/May/15 Lead β

Get in! Felt like my hardest flash to date. Really pleased with this

JamesWilliams 16/Mar/15 Lead dog

first go at the years goal. did pretty much all the moves need to just start linking them now and sort some good sequences

with Oli Grounsil, Tom 'keen' livingstone
dswansonlow 07/Sep/14 Lead RP

YEEESS!! Now it feels easier. A slight modification to my sequence getting into the groove totally unlocked the route for me. First proper long term project send :-)

shed_hed 07/Sep/14 Lead RP

Sweet! Did not expect to get this at all! Was just going to have one last attempt before giving up and getting on something else but it went well. Beta just seemed to fall into place when I was putting clips in, especially on the last move to allow me to move my foot across in control. Came down and rested and got it next go on the first time I'd ever linked the start bouldery moves! Felt so good on it and was recovering and resting where I would normally get pumped so I barely felt tired when I got to the lower off. Must have been the perfect conditions.

shed_hed 27/Aug/14 Lead dog

Why does this not get any easier??!!

dswansonlow 27/Aug/14 Lead dog

Still no easier..

dswansonlow 24/Jul/14 Lead dog

1 go. Best yet! Maybe I am getting a little fitter. Climbed all the way through up to pulling into the groove but didn't have the beans to get my feet up.

shed_hed 24/Jul/14 Lead dog

Still feels as hard as it did before...

dswansonlow 22/Jul/14 Lead dog

Oh my god, when will this ever start to feel easier...

Glyn 30/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Fight at the end of the session. Got it by skin of my teeth. Felt harder then when I red pointed it 3 years ago! But I had been working it for weeks back then! Great climbing, one of the best

with Amy
Hidden 22/Jun/14 TR dog
doylo 13/May/14 Lead

First one of the year

shed_hed 13/May/14 Lead dog

Route was in great condition and not at all greasy which makes a big difference! The traverse felt easier this time around but still struggling with the start and end moves!

dswansonlow 13/May/14 Lead dog
Ed Booth 12/May/14 Lead RP

bolt to bolted to put clips in then red pointed

Adam Booth 25/Apr/14 Lead dog

Got all the moves this time but had to rest on most of the draws through lack of stamina

Ed Booth 25/Apr/14 Lead dog

broken finger, this route does not want me to climb it it seems

Hidden 25/Apr/14 Lead dog
nathanlee 28/Mar/14 Lead RP

Did it first time I got through the first crux. King of last moves!

Cailean Harker 23/Mar/14 Lead RP

Great climbing. Didnt warm up properly and got flash pump on the onsight. Lowered to the ground and climbed 2nd go. Amazing finishing moves!!

with Mike Goldthorp
brices 23/Mar/14 Lead dnf
shed_hed 15/Mar/14 Lead dog

Struggling a bit with the low down crux but v. close to being able to get it clean to start of traverse. Traverse is super pumpy and will need to work out a good sequence and do some stamina training. Penultimate moves are hard when fresh and will be desperate when pumped. Not got enough reach so have to go from closer, poorer undercut, explode my foot across (very fluffable) and go from there... On the plus side I can do all the moves when fresh and the moves are excellent and so varied.

dswansonlow 15/Mar/14 Lead dog
shed_hed 14/Mar/14 Lead dog

Bolt to bolt trying to work out the moves.

dswansonlow 14/Mar/14 Lead dog
Mike Goldthorp ?/Mar/14 Lead

So happy to finally do this! A real fight right to the final jug, power-screaming all the way up the groove! Interesting to read my previous failed log, which was before my accident 3 years ago. Coming back to retro flash it was a really profound feeling. The best sport climb I've ever done.

Hidden ??/2014 -
shed_hed 01/Sep/13 Lead dog

Guh! Powerful and pumpy!

dswansonlow 01/Sep/13 Lead dog
DDDD 20/Jun/13 Lead dog

Fell on second last move - bugger. Still, get to climb it again another day.

with Sham
Tom Livingstone 09/Jun/13 Lead RP

Psyched! Sure it's only 7c for me but still, mega! Solid on the RP, perfect climb!

Hidden 20/Apr/13 TR rpt
Hidden ??/2013 -
willoates ??/2013 Lead RP

Took quite a few sessions. Well psyched to get it!

Hidden 31/Aug/12 TR dog
Hidden 26/Aug/12 TR dog
Adam Booth 26/Aug/12 TR dog

None of it felt that hard, but there's no way I've got the stamina at the moment. Keen to get back on it after my next Euro sport trip!

Ed Booth 11/Aug/12 Lead dog

Only had short time Fucked up first go at first boulder prob. then dropped last move again next go.

_m.cox_ 26/Jul/12 Lead RP
westyb3 01/Jul/12 Lead β

Fun climbing

with Heather Ogston
Ed Booth 13/May/12 Lead dog

Fell at last move on flash. next go the same. Third was shite.

with Fennerz
willsm11 05/May/12 Lead RP

Really good excluding the bottom section.

with Johnny White
Hidden 03/May/12 Lead rpt
NickHarms ??/2012 Lead dog
LRob ??/2012 Lead
phil64 12/Sep/11 Lead RP

yes.... first ever hard redpoint! got it on my 9th redpoint c'mon!!

Tom Livingstone 10/Sep/11 Lead dog

3rd 'proper' session, had to rest before and after traverse but will go soon....!

edinbed 24/Jul/11 Lead

Flashed putting the clips in. Failed on this when I last visited LPT 20 years ago.

Glyn 13/Jul/11 Lead RP

Finally! With a borrowed deep dish upside down chalk bag. Probably took about 8 redpoints over 3 days. being short i found the penultimate move very hard and on off. First multiday redpoint experience

with phil
phil64 13/Jul/11 2nd
with Glyn
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead rpt
schof 30/Jun/11 Lead RP

ive never been so pumped

with will
Hidden 14/Jun/11 Lead RP
Luke Brooks 11/Jun/11 Lead RP
steepstuff 14/May/11 -
with Callum
blaza1 ?/May/11 Lead dog
steve_yo 16/Apr/11 Lead RP
with jojo
Mike Goldthorp 27/Mar/11 Lead dog

Amazing! So close today, fell going up the groove 1st RP, slapping the final jug 2nd RP and holding the barndoor 3rd RP. Glad I have the fitness to give 3 good attempts and feel fresh for each one. Bosh this when I get back from Choro!

Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 24/Oct/10 Lead RP
Hidden 22/Oct/10 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Oct/10 Lead dog
Rob Pitt 17/Sep/10 Lead RP

Did it clip to clip then got it first RP

with Helen Pitt
Hidden 08/Sep/10 TR dnf
barni 22/Aug/10 Lead dnf

got most of the traverse

with long jon
barni 21/Aug/10 Lead dnf
with long jon
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/Jul/10 Lead RP

1st redders, love it!

zero six ?/Jul/10 Lead RP
willackers 16/May/10 Lead RP

Fell going for the finishing jug on the flash!, so close I gave it everything! What an awesome route!

with lots of scottish people
Henners 16/May/10 Lead RP

Super classic testpiece finally done!

with willackers
Hidden 25/Apr/10 Lead RP
nige 24/Apr/10 Lead RP
with ewan mccallum
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 08/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Jul/09 Lead RP
buzby78 22/Jul/09 Lead RP

Tricky finish

with Johnny Stocking
Dave Searle 25/Jun/09 TR dog
with rob
ksjs 09/Jun/09 Lead RP

1st go - fell from the jug at the top - bad! 2nd go - at long last its done! really pleased. actually pretty solid on this, managed to recover on undercuts before final moves. 8 sessions, 18 tries (5 to work moves, 1 in bad conditions, 11 redpoint attempts and redpoint itself). surely one of the UKs best 7cs (or should i say 7c+ for the shorter amongst us)?

with owen
farmus21 16/May/09 TR dog
with George Ullrich
ksjs 23/Apr/09 Lead dog
with jo
ksjs 18/Apr/09 Lead dog
with jo
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead dog
ksjs 26/Sep/08 Lead dog
with jo
ksjs 26/Sep/08 Lead dog
with jo
ksjs 26/Sep/08 Lead dog
with jo
ksjs 28/Aug/08 Lead dnf
with jo
ksjs 15/Aug/08 Lead dog
with jo
ksjs 01/Jul/08 Lead dog
with john
bigie bob 18/May/08 Lead RP
Gus 28/Aug/07 Lead RP
marky 26/Aug/07 Lead RP
with Sharon
Cassidy 12/Aug/07 Lead RP
with Henners
ksjs 01/Aug/07 Lead dog
with silvi
lx 24/Jul/07 Lead

1st redpoint. Hard, I think 7c+

with alison
IOAN D 16/Jul/07 Lead O/S

yeeeeee haaaaaaaaaaaaa super psyced man!!!

with Mills
Hidden 29/Apr/07 Lead RP
guyblackwood 14/Apr/07 TR dnf

hard moves- but do-able- at least the first half

with Lee
shark 04/Aug/06 Lead dog

Sooo close to settling a very old score

with Dan McManus
Boy ??/2006 -
spidey 26/May/05 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2000 -
kristian ??/1998 Lead RP
sadams 12/May/96 Lead RP

3 days

Hidden ??/1995 Lead
Mike Owen 04/Aug/94 Lead rpt
with Perry Hawkins
Mike Owen 20/May/94 Lead rpt
with Perry Hawkins, Elaine Owen
CBA ??/1994 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1994 Lead O/S

Got the OS on this but blew the big prize of Statement OS later in the day

with keefe
keefe ??/1994 2nd
Mike Owen 26/Apr/92 Lead RP
with Mike Twid Turner
robyn1 ??/1985 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
anguskille, mikephilrob, Hidden, Hidden, chakrit, cjd91, dswansonlow, oliver.ghill91, irclimb, Hidden, Hidden, eugeneth, phil64, Mike Goldthorp, DDDD, Hidden, Goonie, Hidden, Dave Deary, daveayton, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Stig, Hidden, Hidden, Dave Searle, derico, Hidden, co1ps, Hidden, Hidden
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set