Acheron** HVS 5a
[Acheron, 3 kb]150m, 6 pitches. A massive route that wends its way up the huge serrated arete on the left-hand side of the buttress. Route finding is complex and the climbing and situations remarkably varied. The rock on the whole is very good and, after the initial section of the first pitch, the amount of vegetation does not impose on the climbing.
1) 4c, 34m. Starting just left of the main corner, climb rock and vegetation to a bulge that guards access to a slab. Make a hard move up onto the slab and follow its left side to a belay ledge beneath a left-leaning corner/groove.
2) 4c, 26m. Climb to and up the corner/groove to where it steepens and then traverse right across the wall to a rib and climb this to a grassy ledge. Continue traversing rightwards to a belay in a quartz corner.
3) 4c, 20m. Climb leftwards across a slab to a ledge on the arete. Climb a short but steep groove on the other side of the arete and then head left and down to ledges under a corner-crack.
4) 4c, 18m. Climb the corner, taking care with the rock and traverse right to the arete. Continue to a belay below a flared chimney/groove.
5) 5a, 30m. Climb the excellent chimney groove and rib to its right before heading rightwards up vegetation to a large tree below bulging rock.
6) 4b, 20m. Pull steeply onto the wall above the right-hand end of the bulging rock and climb a short way on rock before grass and heather lead up to belays in boulders. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales 100 Classic Climbs.

Photo: Acheron © alan moore
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 26 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

matt.woodfield - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/14

IanGilbertJones - 2014

bob johnson - 31/Aug/13 with Rich Ball, Bram

Some lovely sequences on this route - recommended
hotfeet - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with David Elder

Lead pitches 1, 3, 5. Vegetated and dirty but bone dry. Every pitch had good climbing, one of the best mountain routes I've climbed.
RCrockford - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Jonah

Stewart Armstrong - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/12 with Mark Hale, John Proudfoot

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12

Big dirty rambling fun mountain route
Tim M - AltLd O/S - 27/May/12 with Emma

climbergg - AltLd - 27/May/12 with cheesesarnie

Bailed after two pitches. Team psyche was seriously depleted by the cold wind and relentless jungle bashing. Currently rather overgrown and dirty - maybe it improves above?
jkarran - Lead dnf - 01/May/11 with Pete

Being lost to the jungle
petellis - 2nd dnf - 01/May/11 with Cleric James Koran

A slippery start and finish, but the rest of the climb was dry with some vegetation. An excellent mix of slabs, cracks, chimney, walls, etc...
Skullfire - 2nd O/S - 04/Oct/09 with Mat Mitchell, Trevor Jones

Plenty of vegitation to skate on, climbing cant get much nastier but that's what you get when doing it too soon after rain. Not much protection...
Eetu - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with Olli

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/05

DMDM..
Marq - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/04 with Daniel Dennehy

caradoc - AltLd - 07/Jun/03 with john b

Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - 1997 with Steve Jonas, Dave Oldacres

Still the best mountain route I have ever climbed...
alan moore - 1995

great route - though maybe it has got a bit dirtier over the years?
auld al - AltLd O/S - May/94

Pete Nugent - AltLd - 30/Jun/92

Lead p2 4 & 6
Mick King - AltLd - 28/Jun/92 with Mark Lavender

AndrewP - Lead - 1991

mikej - AltLd - 23/Jun/73 with Stewart Grant

tapley - Lead - 27/May/70

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Mark Kemball, Calder, dansmonkeytroubles, twright180, sgl0jd

Voting
Total votes cast 50
hard E10 of 17
E10 of 17
easy E10 of 17
hard HVS0 of 17
HVS1 of 17
easy HVS10 of 17
hard VS5 of 17
VS1 of 17
easy VS0 of 17
hard 5b0 of 16
5b0 of 16
easy 5b0 of 16
hard 5a0 of 16
5a0 of 16
easy 5a11 of 16
hard 4c5 of 16
4c0 of 16
easy 4c0 of 16
3 Stars11 of 17
2 Stars2 of 17
1 Star2 of 17
0 Stars1 of 17
Bag of .....1 of 17
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dnf