25m.

Rockfax Description
A great boot-sized crack. Follow the crack. Abseil descent. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A gem of a route with excellent protection. Ascend the awkward groove (sometimes damp) to the right of the steep face, stepping left at the hanging flake to tackle the crack directly. The crack is climbed on good jams with holds out left sometimes useful. Abseil decent from the tree several metres higher up.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.


ClimberDateStyle
GwilymR 25/Mar 2nd O/S
with Jammy
James Beaumont 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Great route, good for a nice easy day

with Dan
SenzuBean 05/Sep/15 Lead dog

Unfortunately I chose this as my first HVS lead attempt... I thought it looked easy... Relatively early on in the climb, I found I needed to smear the wall to reach higher - but despite my best attempts (8 or so goes), my feet slipped every time, and I got stupidly pumped. On the last go, I thought I'd wipe the rock - just for a laugh since nothing else was working. As if by magic, the last attempt succeeded - what a painful way to learn the lesson to just clean dirty rock before attemping to smear on it!!! I climbed up to the small grassy niche where the thin crack starts, but couldn't figure out the sequence before running out of strength - had a fall onto the gear. Rested up, and managed it the next go, and finished up cleanly into the muddy horrow show of a top out (it was as scary as the climb itself to be honest, except with no gear)

with Paul C
dicky79 18/May/14 Lead O/S
with James D
adamre12 04/May/14 Lead O/S

A worthwhile exercise in hand and foot jamming. Fun.

Qureshi 04/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead
HIGHTOWER 03/May/14 2nd
with Tom Hansford
ianstevens 19/Apr/14 -
james.slater 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Pretty tough with several hard sections! A proper HVS battle!

Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
Hidden 13/Nov/13 Lead
JamesWilliams 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

real dirty. A proper old school route a tough proposition and shite belay/abseil

Hidden 02/Jun/13 2nd
Coops_13 14/Oct/12 Lead dnf

Slippery and lichenous and top crack wet so traversed off on sketchy moss...

richardlong78 21/Jun/12 Lead dnf

Fell 2 m from top

with Sophie Foxen
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd
jon_ridley 15/Oct/11 Lead dnf

backed off, couldn't move out left

Hidden 15/Oct/11 2nd dnf
groliver26 15/Oct/11 2nd
sian88 05/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/11 Lead
leowestland ?/Aug/11 Lead
peterstanworth 12/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Great laybacking cracks, but covered with lychen and a scary as sh### death scramble to the tree belay at the top

tim newton 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with dan ely
dan ely 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with tim
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
mattshort 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Shauna 23/May/10 Lead O/S

Proper honest hard work - it just keeps coming. But great climbing, if a little lichenous in places.

with Jules
JulesV 23/May/10 2nd O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
mynyddresident 13/Apr/10 Lead O/S

A brilliant climb,excellent jamming and gear. Probably a little overlooked i guess but it just needs a few more ascents to clean it. Medium cams.

with geraint
peter myers ?/Sep/09 Lead dog
with Ralph Heath
Ows ?/Sep/09 2nd
Rob Davies 22/Aug/09 Lead dog

Greasy at start but that was OK. However, plant obstructed entry into niche - big enough to get in the way but not solid enough to pull on. Good jamming above that.

lukehodson 19/Jun/09 2nd O/S

fiercely technical for hvs

Ewan Russell 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Brilliant, would get 3 stars in yorkshire and VS!

with Mike(Dad)
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Rachel Stroud 07/May/09 2nd dog
with Ben Alsford
Sally Lisle ??/2009 -
psychicbread 13/Jul/08 Lead dnf

very green at crux, hard to layback, wrecked my hands.

with Max
Hidden 11/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 07/Jun/08 2nd O/S
tumbling wizard ??/2008 -
tumbling wizard ??/2008 -
@ndyM@rsh@ll ?/Jun/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/04 TR
michael burrows 13/Sep/02 AltLd dog

one point of rest

with helen swygart
Stone Muppet ??/2000 -
nigehughes ?/Dec/87 2nd
with Adrian Hughes
Nick Biven 08/Jun/86 Lead
The Jazz Butcher ??/1986 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Curtis woodcock, sparkybatteryboy, Hidden, JackPott, m88ulv, PanzerHanzler
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 19
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set