Boot Crack* HVS 5a

Rockfax Description
A great boot-sized crack. Follow the crack. Abseil descent. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
A gem of a route with excellent protection. Ascend the awkward groove (sometimes damp) to the right of the steep face, stepping left at the hanging flake to tackle the crack directly. The crack is climbed on good jams with holds out left sometimes useful. Abseil decent from the tree several metres higher up.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

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This climb is in 49 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Unfortunately I chose this as my first HVS lead attempt... I thought it looked easy... Relatively early on in the climb, I found I needed to smear the wall to reach higher - but despite my best attempts (8 or so goes), my feet slipped every time, and I got stupidly pumped. On the last go, I thought I'd wipe the rock - just for a laugh since nothing else was working. As if by magic, the last attempt succeeded - what a painful way to learn the lesson to just clean dirty rock before attemping to smear on it!!! I climbed up to the small grassy niche where the thin crack starts, but couldn't figure out the sequence before running out of strength - had a fall onto the gear. Rested up, and managed it the next go, and finished up cleanly into the muddy horrow show of a top out (it was as scary as the climb itself to be honest, except with no gear)
SenzuBean - Lead dog - 05/Sep/15 with Paul C

dicky79 - Lead O/S - 18/May/14 with James D

A worthwhile exercise in hand and foot jamming. Fun.
adamre12 - Lead O/S - 04/May/14 with Dan Qureshi

Qureshi - 2nd O/S - 04/May/14

Hidden - Lead - 03/May/14

HIGHTOWER - 2nd - 03/May/14 with Tom Hansford

ianstevens - 19/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

Allanfairfechan - 2014

Mozzy - Lead - 13/Nov/13 with ODA

real dirty. A proper old school route a tough proposition and shite belay/abseil
JamesWilliams - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with jamesA

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jun/13

Slippery and lichenous and top crack wet so traversed off on sketchy moss...
Ross.Cooper - Lead dnf - 14/Oct/12 with Patrick Hill

Fell 2 m from top
richardlong78 - Lead dnf - 21/Jun/12 with Sophie Foxen

backed off, couldn't move out left
jon_ridley - Lead dnf - 15/Oct/11 with Paul Poudevigne-Durance, Gavin Oliver

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 15/Oct/11

groliver26 - 2nd - 15/Oct/11 with Jon Ridley

sian88 - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/11

Matthew Robinson - Lead - 05/Aug/11 with sian

leowestland - Lead - Aug/11

Great laybacking cracks, but covered with lychen and a scary as sh### death scramble to the tree belay at the top
peterstanworth - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/11

tim newton - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with dan ely

dan ely - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11 with tim

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

mattshort - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Charlie Cooper

Proper honest hard work - it just keeps coming. But great climbing, if a little lichenous in places.
Shauna - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with Jules

JulesV - 2nd O/S - 23/May/10 with Shauna Cunningham

A brilliant climb,excellent jamming and gear. Probably a little overlooked i guess but it just needs a few more ascents to clean it. Medium cams.
mynyddresident - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/10 with geraint

peter myers - Lead dog - Sep/09 with Ralph Heath

Ows - 2nd - Sep/09

fiercely technical for hvs
lukehodson - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/09 with Sam Howell

Brilliant, would get 3 stars in yorkshire and VS!
Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Mike(Dad)

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/09

Rachel Stroud - 2nd dog - 07/May/09 with Ben Alsford

Sally Lisle - 2009

very green at crux, hard to layback, wrecked my hands.
psychicbread - Lead dnf - 13/Jul/08 with Max

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/08

tumbling wizard - 2008

tumbling wizard - 2008

@ndyM@rsh@ll - 2nd O/S - Jun/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/07

Hidden - TR - Apr/04

one point of rest
michael burrows - AltLd dog - 13/Sep/02 with helen swygart

Stone Muppet - 2000

nigehughes - 2nd - Dec/87 with Adrian Hughes

Nick Biven - Lead - 08/Jun/86

Hidden - 1986

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
sparkybatteryboy, JackPott, m88ulv, PanzerHanzler

Total votes cast 55
hard E10 of 19
E10 of 19
easy E13 of 19
hard HVS14 of 19
HVS2 of 19
easy HVS0 of 19
hard VS0 of 19
VS0 of 19
easy VS0 of 19
hard 5b0 of 18
5b0 of 18
easy 5b12 of 18
hard 5a4 of 18
5a2 of 18
easy 5a0 of 18
hard 4c0 of 18
4c0 of 18
easy 4c0 of 18
3 Stars0 of 18
2 Stars5 of 18
1 Star11 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....2 of 18
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S