Glovers Chimney*** III 4
[Me on the top pitch of Glovers Chimney III,4, 3 kb]140m, 3 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, 3 star Scottish winter.

Photo: Me on the top pitch of Glovers Chimney III,4 © Nick
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This climb is in 254 logbooks, and on 72 wishlists.

3:30 am start at carpark. The temperature low enough in P2-3, but the chimney pitch was shower-climb with a big run out due to heavily verglassed wall. Everything got soaked. Mike's second Scottish winter.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/15 with Mike W

Mike Webster - 2nd - 04/Apr/15 with masa-alpin

bullwinkle - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/15

Finished up The Gutter.
Captain Solo - Solo rpt - 02/Apr/15

Timothy Miller - Solo O/S - 22/Mar/15

Great day out in the sunshine on the Ben. Chimney pitch at the top was well iced up
Ian Dunbar - AltLd - 13/Mar/15 with Phil Hall

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/15

Easy ice/slopes up to atmospheric mixed chimney. Finished out tower ridge to blue skies.
davkeo - Solo O/S - 10/Mar/15

Finished out Tower Ridge.
cearbhalld - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/15

Durkules - 2nd - 14/Feb/15

great final pitch
g0rd0n davids0n - Lead - 12/Feb/15 with roy davidson

Solo up to the final chimney, ice pitch in great nick
Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/15 with Mark Stevenson

joese7en - 08/Feb/15

Great first ice pitch! Good neve and ice, every placement felt solid. However the whole climb took much longer than expected. 5 pitches instead of 3. Snow and ice section upto start of the chimney took 3 lengths of 60m rope. Resulting in climbing the chimney pitch and rest of tower ridge in the dark. Chimney pitch felt very bold as all cracks for gear placement iced up. But again enough good neve to get through. Amazing cloud inversion all day.
skirton - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/15 with Sean Henderson

What a day, took longer than expected so ended up topping out on Nevis at 19.45! Took 5 long pitches, Sarah leading 1, 3 & 5 (The crux final chimney pitch in the dark) and I lead the easier 2nd and 4th pitches as managed to forget my harness so had to improvise with a sling :-/ leading up out of tower gap was amazing in the dark, exposure was crazy! Great full day out, cloud inversion got better all day, sunset on last belay and amazing stars on the summit. Epic day
seanhendo123 - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/15 with Sarah

Lead first and last. Good ice on first pitch.
mzchambers - AltLd rpt - 03/Jan/15 with Brodie Hood
PAJames - 03/Jan/15

chmckay - 2nd - 2015

Hidden - 2015

Hidden - 15/Apr/14

Crux was probably the bergshrund where the first ice pitch normally is! Totally banked out today . Snow very soft . A little ice in chimney.
Nemo9 - AltLd - 07/Apr/14 with Jim

pamvdb17 - 2nd - 29/Mar/14 with Ollie

Initial ice pitch banked out but otherwise good conditions. Topped out in superb light from the setting sun
oliverk - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/14 with Pam

The chimney had massive amounts of snow and ice compared to any pictures I've seen. I really felt stuck at one point with my rucksack on. Would have been much easier if we had hauled the rucksacks. Brilliant day out with the Ben clearing out for a few brief minutes.
khalidq - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/14 with Dan Metcalf

12 hours hostel to hostel, up via Garbach Gully. Pretty poor weather but cleared for period in afternoon and wind calmed right down for summit. No sign of recent traffic but TR had prints and ice cleared for gear. Great big day.
manwithacam - AltLd - 09/Mar/14 with khalid

Hidden - Lead - 30/Apr/13

Well banked out when we were on it! Crux was the mixed moves in to the Gap!! Great locations! I then lead tower ridge to the top - it was a stunning evening!
010paw - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/13 with calum mcphee, Andy Watt

Great route. First and last pitches excellent (Ice pitch and chimney pitch), with some snow plodding in between. Most gear cracks iced up in top pitch though. We then hit the traffic jams on tower ridge...
mattking_109 - Lead - 16/Mar/13

alexmcmillan - 2nd O/S - 16/Mar/13 with Matt King

Simonfarfaraway - Lead - 23/Feb/13 with Paul Arkless

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Feb/13

mrbird - AltLd - 22/Feb/13

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 22/Feb/13 with David Bird

David Kay - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/13 with Paul Scott, Scott Stanley

scottidog - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/13 with Paul S, Dave K

Led P2 and 4(from Tower gap). No pro in top section as cracks iced.
LozM - AltLd - 16/Feb/13 with Mark J

claregardiner - AltLd - 16/Feb/13

Gibbo - AltLd - 02/Feb/13 with Sash Coombes

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/13

j.buckley87 - AltLd O/S - Feb/13

All pitches!
ollyroberts - Lead O/S - 12/Jan/13 with Piers Newton

piersnewton - 2nd O/S - 12/Jan/13 with Olly Roberts

Thin ice pitch but fantastic neve on the route
Yourlead - AltLd - 11/Jan/13 with Graham Penny

Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/13 with Alec

APRS - AltLd - 03/Jan/13 with Ewan Russell

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Ewan Lead the first and the lasted. James and me lead the middle pitches
mzchambers - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/12 with Ewan, James

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Dec/12

Hidden - Lead - 01/Dec/12

sacdenouilles - AltLd - 26/Feb/12 with Jim McAlpin, J F Philippe

Ice pitch in condition, stonked up the gully, Rach led the chimney (little to no ice), finished up to the summit via the remainder of Tower Ridge. Topped out at 6 pm. James dropped axe back into gully from top of Tower Ridge
Lumbering Oaf - 2nd O/S - 24/Feb/12 with James Hoyes, Rach Batt

P1-James, P2-me then J lead moving together, me- next P and final chimney, J-tower gap and FINALLY me moving together. Good ice and snow, good gear lots of spindrift, used the deadweight! Chimney v little ice but good hooks. Tower ridge good to top.
Batt - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/12 with Matt Box, James Hoyes

A really enjoyable and varied route. Highlight of the winter.
Hoyes - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/12 with Matt B, Rachel B

picasso - 2nd - 19/Feb/12

Hidden - Lead - 17/Feb/12

Hidden - 15/Feb/12

deklan - AltLd - 06/Feb/12 with sam

jamesh - AltLd - 05/Feb/12 with Jim Unwin

markwarner - AltLd O/S - 05/Feb/12

4 hours to get to bottom of climb, got first ice screw in at belay and decided to bin it. Too late in the day and the team ahead were moving slow and kicking lots of ice down!!
Andy Hewison - Lead dnf - 30/Jan/12 with Steve T

stephenmckenzie - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/12 with Daniel Sutherland

Daniel Sutherland - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/12 with Stephen Mckenzie

Finished by an unknown ice pitch out right at the top due to queues, quite a steep wee pitch.
greenroom - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/12 with hodgegrayson

Jonny Fart-Pants - AltLd - 28/Jan/12 with Frith Wood

Andy Mathers - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/12

sgl - AltLd rpt - 26/Jan/12 with Benjamin

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jan/12

Lead pitch one.then the stuck up in the chimney,had to get Keith to bail me out.
neil9216 - Lead - 15/Jan/12

stuart90 - 2nd - Jan/12

luckyjim - 2012

Marko Duksi - 2012

Narked4fun - 2012

Hidden - 2012

tim20 - 2012 with Mat

Fantastic route, the last pitch had no ice and tower gap was completely bare. First attempt at mixed and though scary thoroughly enjoyed it!
theycallmefrodo - 2nd O/S - 28/Mar/11 with David Tait

I lead the ice pitch and Richard lead the chimney pitch. Straightforward between those pitches. Great route.
J Brown - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/11 with RK

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Mar/11

lead the ice pitch, part of the easy ground and the final part of tower ridge
carl_123 - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/11

Led two pitches in the middle and the top out from Tower Ridge onto the plateau. Great route!
CalumA - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/11 with Andy Ruck

epic top pitch
melville18 - 2nd - 01/Mar/11 with nigel martin, john jackson

Martin leading. A superb mixed climb in perfect weather. Had a few Graham and Linda swearing though. Exit from the chimney into the Tower Ridge gap, awesome!
iansm - 2nd - 01/Mar/11 with Linda, Martin (Wilf)

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/11

With Matt Forshaw.
MartF - 2nd - 27/Jan/11

Great fun. Led ice pitch and chimney. Cracks were pretty choked so felt quite bold. Mike seconded the last pitch by torchlight. Top out on Tower Ridge by starlight!
Cardi - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/11 with Mike Wild

Absolutely sensational, recommend. Scott got ice, I got Chimney crux.
jimorothy - AltLd - 22/Jan/11 with Scott Barnett

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 01/Jan/11

We were geared up for a chimney with mostly rock protection and were stoped by an icefall (ca IV) at the entry of Glover's Chimney (didn't have sufficient ice screws) - therefore changed route and did No.2 Gully instead.
HansUDes - AltLd dnf - 01/Jan/11 with Bradley Morrell

With Greg martin and Stu coxon. Tricky wet icefall at the start (perhaps IV), snow all hard neve, chimney well iced up and porly protected. Toped out just as the sun was going down. Awesome route.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 01/Jan/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jan/11

Hidden - 2011

adie84 - 2011

centurion05 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Andrew Wilson - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/10 with Tim Pearson

Very warm on the Ben (around 4 degrees at 900m). Finished in the dark, got down to car around 1am.
stuaart - AltLd O/S - 29/Dec/10 with Neil Redgrave

Second ascend within two weeks. It's much fatter this time and a bit easier. Still nail for the grade though!
jamestheyip - AltLd O/S - 23/Dec/10 with Peter

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Dec/10

ig248 - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/10 with Alex Cowan

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 15/Dec/10 with sam read

Last pitch was fun. Ice on first pitch was quite steep. The rest was a long gentle snow ramp.
jamestheyip - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/10 with Hannah Vickers

Fantastic icefall at the start of the route. Moves at GardeIV, followed by fairly long stretch of hard neve leading up to next belay. Final pitch in the chimney was a bit thin but reasonable to find ice axe placements. Chimney walls glazed in ice though!
Hannah V - 2nd - 12/Dec/10 with James Yip

Ice Spider - AltLd - 02/May/10 with Tony Barton

nicjbuk - AltLd - 02/May/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/10

I lead the crux mark was scared!
philboy - AltLd - 07/Apr/10 with Mark, matt g

Led the ice pitch, which was quite banked out so had only about 10 - 15 metres of steep ice (followed a direct line which was a good 4). Moved together on the snow plod middle section, with Rich leading. Tom led the chimney pitch, which was good fun. Shortly after Tom finished that pitch, Nick and Mike went past him at the Gap - they had set out from the car park a couple of hours before us. We caught up with them on the summit plateau. Glissaded all the way down No 4 gully and then almost all the way to the CIC Hut. Frosty, blue sky day - perfect! Enjoyable first and last pitches but spoilt by the snow plod... My first route on the Ben, apart from Carn Mor Dearg Arete four years ago.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/10 with Rich, Tom

Pretty damp conditions. Route is pretty good, the mixed section at the top was probably the highlight. The snow on Tower Ridge really needs a freeze!
Ken Applegate - Lead - 25/Mar/10 with Phil Applegate

1st pitch had poor pro. Last bit excellent, glad i wasn't leading it.
glaramara - AltLd - 20/Mar/10 with mark gorin

Led the lower ice pitch which was fun direct, moved together up the snow gully and seconded the mixed chimney.
Steven Andrews - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Harry

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Mar/10

cox - AltLd - 10/Mar/10 with cris

Spence22 - AltLd - 06/Mar/10 with Guy

Amazing route! Ice was in good condition, though the middle pitches required quite a lot of snow swimming due to the recent dump of powder. 12 hour day, summited the Ben at 7pm in the dark.
Helen23 - 2nd - 19/Feb/10 with Dave Ayris, Dave Sokald

Phil had bottom ice pitch, I had chimney and out of gap.
Moonstone Hippy - AltLd - 06/Feb/10 with Phil

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Feb/10

JonBrown - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/10 with Marcel

Led top pitches. Awesome route but very long day.
tatz45 - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/10 with Mark Boden, Tom Boyle

Lead first pitch, ice steps
tomboyle - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/10 with mark boden, tatts

Sophie Nunn - 2nd - 30/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jan/10

marceli - Lead - 2010 with JonBrown

1st pitch thin. last, hard for a IV.
glaramara - AltLd - 2010

Hidden - AltLd - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 13/Apr/09

Col Kingshott - Lead O/S - Apr/09

Hidden - Lead - 21/Mar/09

Dave Latimer - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/09

Led the top chimney
adamscottthomas - AltLd - 17/Mar/09 with Andy Wardle

Seconded first ice pitch and chimney at the top. I led pitch 2, and ran out up Tower ridge to the summit. Moved together in middle snow gulley. Great clear day, topped out 5.30pm. Descent down no.4 gulley.
prwalker - AltLd - 17/Mar/09 with Tom Wallbank

sgl - Lead rpt - 24/Feb/09 with Tamar

Superb winter climb, really enjoyable.
David Revill - 2nd - 24/Feb/09 with Christopher Revill

Christopher Revill - Lead - 24/Feb/09 with David Revill

Top pitch felt hard for 4, extremely well-protected though. Had to descend from the Gap as partner was exhausted, rope got stuck on final icefall pitch.
Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 22/Feb/09 with Anita Goldsworthy

JdotP - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/09 with Aleks Domanski

First route of the 2009 season: chimney pitch was verglased and pretty gymnastic, and the wind coming over the ridge was gale force: very nearly got blown back down the chimney when clippping the sling on Tower Gap. In fact, the wind was so strong that we pitched 2 rope lengths of crawling (!) from the Gap to safe ground!
andybuckley - Lead - Feb/09 with Mike Moss

Led first ice pitch, possibly quite lean and steep for III but only for about 2 moves. Crampon came off on 2nd pitch and fell down the couloir. Finished the rest on 2nd in one crampon, surprisingly without difficulty.
niallk - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/09 with Willie

stuartm555 - 2nd - 03/Jan/09 with Seb Rider

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/09 with Roel

Hidden - AltLd - Jan/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jan/09

Ross McGibbon - 2009

cragmanuk - 2009 with Ian Lamb

net - AltLd - 31/Dec/08 with George

GPN - AltLd - 31/Dec/08 with Annette

steep 1st pitch followed by 4 or 5 pitches of grade 1. good chimney to top out though.
mulletcocktail2000 - AltLd O/S - 29/Dec/08 with john

Led chimney pitch
Bristoldave - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/08 with Neil Ferguson

Alexander123 - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/08 with Nicholas Watt

Watty - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/08 with A.Watt

1st, 3rd and final pitches led. final pitch was awesome, made me understand how good winter climbing is. Topped out 5mins before sunset at 7 in a whiteout, back at car at 4am
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/08 with Dan Matthewman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/08

Shaw Brown - AltLd - 24/Mar/08 with Loz

Ken did hardest (fuinal pitch)
tom_holdsworth - AltLd - 18/Mar/08 with Mike Kennedy

Chimney Pitch is very good climbing the rest was dissapointing! A little scary as a muppet fell down tower gap, his crampon bouncing 1/2m above my face as i was on the crux!
Mr.Billiams - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/08 with Lundy & Lyndsey

swimming up the first few pitches at times, good top chimney though.
joe king - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/08 with steve petit

Not thrilled to find a rope of four crossing the gap at a snails pace just as I got there....
steveP - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/08 with Paul Rowlands

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/08

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Feb/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Jan/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jan/08

John Kettle - AltLd O/S - 06/Jan/08

ewen - AltLd O/S - 05/Jan/08 with the kettle

smac - 2008

Charlie wp Hill - AltLd - 2008

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2008

Lead all proper pitches.
HamishD - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/07 with Cat Kilburn

crowberry gully - 01/Apr/07 with Ross McGibbon

luckyjim - AltLd - Apr/07 with tom ballard

Hidden - 25/Mar/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/07

jason - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/07 with manmike

Perfect ice & neve. I got the chimney pitch & it was a belter.
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/07 with SteveM

Captain Solo - AltLd - 06/Feb/07 with Jim Marshall

Hidden - Solo - Feb/07

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/07

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jan/07

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jan/07

alan wilson - 2007

bailed on the crux moves getting on to TR
CurlyStevo - Lead dnf - 2007

mike.moss - AltLd O/S - 2007

Boxy - AltLd - 19/Mar/06 with Aus

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Mar/06

gripped01 - Lead O/S - Mar/06 with Si Moore

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/06

G. Tiger, Esq. - AltLd - 28/Jan/06

Hidden - 2006

Climbed with Moony around Dec 05- long day and first proper route on the Ben
kenneM - Lead - 17/Dec/05 with Moony

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/05

decs - AltLd - Mar/05 with Fran

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/05

Nicos - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/05 with tom knight

Lead all pitches, it was pretty cool, good ice fall at the start bit of walk in the middle
James Humble - Lead O/S - Feb/05 with Spewy Tom

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/05

Dave Kerr - AltLd - 27/Jan/05 with Kenny Grant

Hidden - AltLd - 2005

Nick Wallis - AltLd O/S - 2005

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/04

Thin ice andnot much in the chimney
Yourlead - AltLd - 20/Feb/04 with Graham Penny

ruggystunts - 2nd - Feb/04 with Sean

seanyt - Lead - Feb/04

abbeywall - AltLd - 2004

niall_mac - AltLd - Apr/03 with am_bodach

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Mar/03

Following Guide
Ann S - 2nd - Mar/03 with Guide

dthomson - 2003 with paul klauza

Richard Weller - AltLd - 06/Apr/02 with Nick Cruden, Keith Morris

Gudge - AltLd O/S - Apr/02 with Gareth Hughes

Jamie B - AltLd - Apr/01 with Simon Franks

Hidden - Mar/01

Hidden - AltLd - 2001

Phill_ Thompson - AltLd - Feb/00 with Matt Newman, Lucy Prins

Hidden - Lead - 2000

akhughes - Solo O/S - 2000

ill_bill - AltLd - Feb/99

Hidden - 01/Mar/98

johnkeith - AltLd - 1998 with G. Callander

Smith42 - Mar/97

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/97

Marti999 - AltLd - 1997

AB1965 - 15/Mar/96

Mickdenali - Lead - Mar/95 with Mick Cadwell, Gail Waller

Hidden - Solo O/S - Feb/95

Mick King - Lead - 15/Apr/94 with Stu Hardacre

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Mar/92

mark-abz - AltLd - Mar/92 with Simon K

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 26/Feb/92 with Nick Ashton

Hidden - AltLd - 1990

scree - Feb/87 with Phil Coates

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Jan/87

Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - 17/Mar/86 with Kim Wainwright

John Marsland - Lead - 18/Feb/86 with Dave Soles

Lone Rider - Solo O/S - 08/Feb/86

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - Feb/85 with Amazonian woman

Richard Weller - AltLd - 14/Jan/85 with Ant Osborne

Ghastly Rubberfeet - AltLd - 1985 with Duncan Bond

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 14/Feb/84 with Dave Bartle

Hidden - Lead - 1984

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 25/Feb/81 with Mark Boon

Fine condition. John Page also on rope
uphillnow - AltLd - Feb/80 with Al Bennett

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/77

Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - 31/Dec/75 with Martin Smith

Dropped a 'Terror' exiting the final chimney, and descent down Five Fingers Gully in wild weather!
Sean Kelly - AltLd - Dec/75 with Norman Ingham

Hidden - 1975

mikej - AltLd - 07/Apr/69 with Wil Hurford

Did first pitch only.
mikej - AltLd dnf - 06/Apr/69 with Wil Hurford

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Euan Todd, squicky, Tony Ryland, mBob8, JenRoberts, pete_naylor, Retro Rowan, gavinpeach, Zippy1999, Swampi, McPhail92, stanleynkk, arose, Andy Syme, Chrismith, thedatastream, Adamski1986, lou_rankine, al jackson, mjsmith1973, Gibson, MarkRoe, iksander, Martin85, skirton, jamesbrown1979, Charlie Zephyr Booth, rnotman67, JonmapDL, oscaig, stephenmckenzie, Timo Austino, Dino Dave, Pat-H, Bradders, michael83, jandyd05, lizzie_malc, MJH, Highball_Mike, davidhw, paul.valentine, vincentvega, gareth r, PanzerHanzler, Alexander123, mart rich, Will Smith

Total votes cast 108
hard IV0 of 38
IV0 of 38
easy IV4 of 38
hard III21 of 38
III11 of 38
easy III1 of 38
hard II/III1 of 38
II/III0 of 38
easy II/III0 of 38
hard 50 of 36
50 of 36
easy 50 of 36
hard 45 of 36
427 of 36
easy 42 of 36
hard 32 of 36
30 of 36
easy 30 of 36
3 Stars18 of 34
2 Stars13 of 34
1 Star3 of 34
0 Stars0 of 34
Bag of .....0 of 34
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat