140m, 3 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, 3 star Scottish winter.

masa-alpin 04/Apr Lead O/S

3:30 am start at carpark. The temperature low enough in P2-3, but the chimney pitch was shower-climb with a big run out due to heavily verglassed wall. Everything got soaked. Mike's second Scottish winter.

with Mike W
Mike Webster 04/Apr 2nd
bullwinkle 03/Apr AltLd O/S
Captain Solo 02/Apr Solo rpt

Finished up The Gutter.

Timothy Miller 22/Mar Solo O/S
Ian Dunbar 13/Mar AltLd

Great day out in the sunshine on the Ben. Chimney pitch at the top was well iced up

with Phil Hall
Hidden 10/Mar Lead O/S
davkeo 10/Mar Solo O/S

Easy ice/slopes up to atmospheric mixed chimney. Finished out tower ridge to blue skies.

cearbhalld 10/Mar AltLd O/S

Finished out Tower Ridge.

Durkules 14/Feb 2nd
g0rd0n davids0n 12/Feb Lead

great final pitch

with roy davidson
Lawrie Brand 10/Feb AltLd O/S

Solo up to the final chimney, ice pitch in great nick

with Mark Stevenson
joese7en 08/Feb -
skirton 06/Feb AltLd O/S

Great first ice pitch! Good neve and ice, every placement felt solid. However the whole climb took much longer than expected. 5 pitches instead of 3. Snow and ice section upto start of the chimney took 3 lengths of 60m rope. Resulting in climbing the chimney pitch and rest of tower ridge in the dark. Chimney pitch felt very bold as all cracks for gear placement iced up. But again enough good neve to get through. Amazing cloud inversion all day.

seanhendo123 06/Feb AltLd O/S

What a day, took longer than expected so ended up topping out on Nevis at 19.45! Took 5 long pitches, Sarah leading 1, 3 & 5 (The crux final chimney pitch in the dark) and I lead the easier 2nd and 4th pitches as managed to forget my harness so had to improvise with a sling :-/ leading up out of tower gap was amazing in the dark, exposure was crazy! Great full day out, cloud inversion got better all day, sunset on last belay and amazing stars on the summit. Epic day

with Sarah
mzchambers 03/Jan AltLd rpt

Lead first and last. Good ice on first pitch.

with Brodie Hood
PAJames 03/Jan -


chmckay ??/2015 2nd
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 15/Apr/14 -
Nemo9 07/Apr/14 AltLd

Crux was probably the bergshrund where the first ice pitch normally is! Totally banked out today . Snow very soft . A little ice in chimney.

with Jim
pamvdb17 29/Mar/14 2nd
with Ollie
oliverk 28/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Initial ice pitch banked out but otherwise good conditions. Topped out in superb light from the setting sun

with Pam
khalidq 09/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

The chimney had massive amounts of snow and ice compared to any pictures I've seen. I really felt stuck at one point with my rucksack on. Would have been much easier if we had hauled the rucksacks. Brilliant day out with the Ben clearing out for a few brief minutes.

manwithacam 09/Mar/14 AltLd

12 hours hostel to hostel, up via Garbach Gully. Pretty poor weather but cleared for period in afternoon and wind calmed right down for summit. No sign of recent traffic but TR had prints and ice cleared for gear. Great big day.

with khalid
Hidden 30/Apr/13 Lead
010paw 30/Apr/13 2nd O/S

Well banked out when we were on it! Crux was the mixed moves in to the Gap!! Great locations! I then lead tower ridge to the top - it was a stunning evening!

with calum mcphee, Andy Watt
mattking_109 16/Mar/13 Lead

Great route. First and last pitches excellent (Ice pitch and chimney pitch), with some snow plodding in between. Most gear cracks iced up in top pitch though. We then hit the traffic jams on tower ridge...

alexmcmillan 16/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Simonfarfaraway 23/Feb/13 Lead
with Paul Arkless
Hidden 23/Feb/13 AltLd
mrbird 22/Feb/13 AltLd
Matthew Robinson 22/Feb/13 AltLd
with David Bird
David Kay 19/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Paul Scott, Scott Stanley
scottidog 19/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Paul S, Dave K
LozM 16/Feb/13 AltLd

Led P2 and 4(from Tower gap). No pro in top section as cracks iced.

with Mark J
claregardiner 16/Feb/13 AltLd
Gibbo 02/Feb/13 AltLd
with Sash Coombes
Hidden 01/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
j.buckley87 ?/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
ollyroberts 12/Jan/13 Lead O/S

All pitches!

piersnewton 12/Jan/13 2nd O/S
Yourlead 11/Jan/13 AltLd

Thin ice pitch but fantastic neve on the route

with Graham Penny
Ewan Russell 03/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with Alec
APRS 03/Jan/13 AltLd
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
mzchambers 18/Dec/12 AltLd O/S

Ewan Lead the first and the lasted. James and me lead the middle pitches

with Ewan, James
Hidden 01/Dec/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Dec/12 Lead
sacdenouilles 26/Feb/12 AltLd
with Jim McAlpin, J F Philippe
Lumbering Oaf 24/Feb/12 2nd O/S

Ice pitch in condition, stonked up the gully, Rach led the chimney (little to no ice), finished up to the summit via the remainder of Tower Ridge. Topped out at 6 pm. James dropped axe back into gully from top of Tower Ridge

Batt 24/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

P1-James, P2-me then J lead moving together, me- next P and final chimney, J-tower gap and FINALLY me moving together. Good ice and snow, good gear lots of spindrift, used the deadweight! Chimney v little ice but good hooks. Tower ridge good to top.

Hoyes 24/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

A really enjoyable and varied route. Highlight of the winter.

picasso 19/Feb/12 2nd
Hidden 17/Feb/12 Lead
Hidden 15/Feb/12 -
deklan 06/Feb/12 AltLd
with sam
jamesh 05/Feb/12 AltLd
with Jim Unwin
markwarner 05/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Andy Hewison 30/Jan/12 Lead dnf

4 hours to get to bottom of climb, got first ice screw in at belay and decided to bin it. Too late in the day and the team ahead were moving slow and kicking lots of ice down!!

with Steve T
stephenmckenzie 28/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
Daniel Sutherland 28/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
greenroom 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Finished by an unknown ice pitch out right at the top due to queues, quite a steep wee pitch.

with hodgegrayson
Jonny Fart-Pants 28/Jan/12 AltLd
Andy Mathers 28/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
sgl 26/Jan/12 AltLd rpt
with Benjamin
Hidden 25/Jan/12 AltLd
neil9216 15/Jan/12 Lead

Lead pitch one.then the gully.got stuck up in the chimney,had to get Keith to bail me out.

stuart90 ?/Jan/12 2nd
luckyjim ??/2012 -
Marko Duksi ??/2012 -
Narked4fun ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
tim20 ??/2012 -
with Mat
theycallmefrodo 28/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Fantastic route, the last pitch had no ice and tower gap was completely bare. First attempt at mixed and though scary thoroughly enjoyed it!

with David Tait
J Brown 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

I lead the ice pitch and Richard lead the chimney pitch. Straightforward between those pitches. Great route.

with RK
Hidden 26/Mar/11 AltLd
carl_123 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

lead the ice pitch, part of the easy ground and the final part of tower ridge

Hidden 12/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
CalumA 05/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Led two pitches in the middle and the top out from Tower Ridge onto the plateau. Great route!

melville18 01/Mar/11 2nd

epic top pitch

with nigel martin, john jackson
iansm 01/Mar/11 2nd

Martin leading. A superb mixed climb in perfect weather. Had a few Graham and Linda swearing though. Exit from the chimney into the Tower Ridge gap, awesome!

with Linda, Martin (Wilf)
Hidden 12/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
MartF 27/Jan/11 2nd

With Matt Forshaw.

Cardi 26/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Great fun. Led ice pitch and chimney. Cracks were pretty choked so felt quite bold. Mike seconded the last pitch by torchlight. Top out on Tower Ridge by starlight!

with Mike Wild
jimorothy 22/Jan/11 AltLd

Absolutely sensational, recommend. Scott got ice, I got Chimney crux.

with Scott Barnett
Hidden 22/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jan/11 AltLd dnf
HansUDes 01/Jan/11 AltLd dnf

We were geared up for a chimney with mostly rock protection and were stoped by an icefall (ca IV) at the entry of Glover's Chimney (didn't have sufficient ice screws) - therefore changed route and did No.2 Gully instead.

Brannock 01/Jan/11 Lead O/S

With Greg martin and Stu coxon. Tricky wet icefall at the start (perhaps IV), snow all hard neve, chimney well iced up and porly protected. Toped out just as the sun was going down. Awesome route.

Hidden 01/Jan/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Andrew Wilson 30/Dec/10 Lead O/S
with Tim Pearson
stuaart 29/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Very warm on the Ben (around 4 degrees at 900m). Finished in the dark, got down to car around 1am.

with Neil Redgrave
jamestheyip 23/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Second ascend within two weeks. It's much fatter this time and a bit easier. Still nail for the grade though!

with Peter
Hidden 22/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
ig248 18/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
with Alex Cowan
dan gibson 15/Dec/10 Lead O/S
with sam read
jamestheyip 12/Dec/10 Lead O/S

Last pitch was fun. Ice on first pitch was quite steep. The rest was a long gentle snow ramp.

with Hannah Vickers
Hannah V 12/Dec/10 2nd

Fantastic icefall at the start of the route. Moves at GardeIV, followed by fairly long stretch of hard neve leading up to next belay. Final pitch in the chimney was a bit thin but reasonable to find ice axe placements. Chimney walls glazed in ice though!

with James Yip
Ice Spider 02/May/10 AltLd
nicjbuk 02/May/10 AltLd
LakesWinter 07/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Mark, Phil B
philboy 07/Apr/10 AltLd

I lead the crux mark was scared!

with Mark, matt g
Misha 02/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Led the ice pitch, which was quite banked out so had only about 10 - 15 metres of steep ice (followed a direct line which was a good 4). Moved together on the snow plod middle section, with Rich leading. Tom led the chimney pitch, which was good fun. Shortly after Tom finished that pitch, Nick and Mike went past him at the Gap - they had set out from the car park a couple of hours before us. We caught up with them on the summit plateau. Glissaded all the way down No 4 gully and then almost all the way to the CIC Hut. Frosty, blue sky day - perfect! Enjoyable first and last pitches but spoilt by the snow plod... My first route on the Ben, apart from Carn Mor Dearg Arete four years ago.

with Rich, Tom
Ken Applegate 25/Mar/10 Lead

Pretty damp conditions. Route is pretty good, the mixed section at the top was probably the highlight. The snow on Tower Ridge really needs a freeze!

with Phil Applegate
glaramara 20/Mar/10 AltLd

1st pitch had poor pro. Last bit excellent, glad i wasn't leading it.

with mark gorin
Steven Andrews 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Led the lower ice pitch which was fun direct, moved together up the snow gully and seconded the mixed chimney.

with Harry
thegoatstroker 13/Mar/10 AltLd
cox 10/Mar/10 AltLd
with cris
Spence22 06/Mar/10 AltLd
with Guy
Helen23 19/Feb/10 2nd

Amazing route! Ice was in good condition, though the middle pitches required quite a lot of snow swimming due to the recent dump of powder. 12 hour day, summited the Ben at 7pm in the dark.

with Dave Ayris, Dave Sokald
Moonstone Hippy 06/Feb/10 AltLd

Phil had bottom ice pitch, I had chimney and out of gap.

with Phil
Hidden 06/Feb/10 AltLd
JonBrown 30/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
with Marcel
tatz45 30/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Led top pitches. Awesome route but very long day.

tomboyle 30/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch, ice steps

Sophie Nunn 30/Jan/10 2nd
Hidden ?/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
marceli ??/2010 Lead
glaramara ??/2010 AltLd

1st pitch thin. last, hard for a IV.

Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden 13/Apr/09 Lead
Col Kingshott ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead
Dave Latimer 19/Mar/09 Lead O/S
adamscottthomas 17/Mar/09 AltLd

Led the top chimney

prwalker 17/Mar/09 AltLd

Seconded first ice pitch and chimney at the top. I led pitch 2, and ran out up Tower ridge to the summit. Moved together in middle snow gulley. Great clear day, topped out 5.30pm. Descent down no.4 gulley.

with Tom Wallbank
sgl 24/Feb/09 Lead rpt
with Tamar
David Revill 24/Feb/09 2nd

Superb winter climb, really enjoyable.

Christopher Revill 24/Feb/09 Lead
Peter Metcalfe 22/Feb/09 AltLd

Top pitch felt hard for 4, extremely well-protected though. Had to descend from the Gap as partner was exhausted, rope got stuck on final icefall pitch.

with Anita Goldsworthy
JdotP 08/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
with Aleks Domanski
andybuckley ?/Feb/09 Lead

First route of the 2009 season: chimney pitch was verglased and pretty gymnastic, and the wind coming over the ridge was gale force: very nearly got blown back down the chimney when clippping the sling on Tower Gap. In fact, the wind was so strong that we pitched 2 rope lengths of crawling (!) from the Gap to safe ground!

with Mike Moss
niallk 03/Jan/09 AltLd O/S

Led first ice pitch, possibly quite lean and steep for III but only for about 2 moves. Crampon came off on 2nd pitch and fell down the couloir. Finished the rest on 2nd in one crampon, surprisingly without difficulty.

with Willie
stuartm555 03/Jan/09 2nd
Adam Booth 03/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
with Roel
Hidden ?/Jan/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jan/09 Lead O/S
Ross McGibbon ??/2009 -
cragmanuk ??/2009 -
with Ian Lamb
net 31/Dec/08 AltLd
with George
GPN 31/Dec/08 AltLd
with Annette
mulletcocktail2000 29/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

steep 1st pitch followed by 4 or 5 pitches of grade 1. good chimney to top out though.

with john
Bristoldave 27/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

Led chimney pitch

with Neil Ferguson
Alexander123 26/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Watty 26/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
with A.Watt
Alex Mason 26/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

1st, 3rd and final pitches led. final pitch was awesome, made me understand how good winter climbing is. Topped out 5mins before sunset at 7 in a whiteout, back at car at 4am

with Dan Matthewman
Hidden 26/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Shaw Brown 24/Mar/08 AltLd
with Loz
tom_holdsworth 18/Mar/08 AltLd

Ken did hardest (fuinal pitch)

with Mike Kennedy
Mr.Billiams 16/Mar/08 Lead O/S

Chimney Pitch is very good climbing the rest was dissapointing! A little scary as a muppet fell down tower gap, his crampon bouncing 1/2m above my face as i was on the crux!

with Lundy & Lyndsey
joe king 09/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

swimming up the first few pitches at times, good top chimney though.

with steve petit
steveP 09/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

Not thrilled to find a rope of four crossing the gap at a snails pace just as I got there....

Hidden ?/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Feb/08 2nd
Hidden 19/Jan/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jan/08 Lead O/S
John Kettle 06/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
ewen 05/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
smac ??/2008 -
Charlie wp Hill ??/2008 AltLd
Hidden ??/2008 2nd O/S
HamishD 30/Dec/07 Lead O/S

Lead all proper pitches.

with Cat Kilburn
crowberry gully 01/Apr/07 -
with Ross McGibbon
luckyjim ?/Apr/07 AltLd
with tom ballard
Hidden 25/Mar/07 -
Hidden 25/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
jason 25/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
with manmike
KeithW 24/Mar/07 AltLd O/S

Perfect ice & neve. I got the chimney pitch & it was a belter.

with SteveM
Captain Solo 06/Feb/07 AltLd
with Jim Marshall
Hidden ?/Feb/07 Solo
Hidden ?/Feb/07 AltLd
Hidden 27/Jan/07 2nd
Hidden 25/Jan/07 AltLd
alan wilson ??/2007 -
CurlyStevo ??/2007 Lead dnf

bailed on the crux moves getting on to TR

mike.moss ??/2007 AltLd O/S
Boxy 19/Mar/06 AltLd
with Aus
Hidden 07/Mar/06 AltLd
gripped01 ?/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Si Moore
Hidden ?/Mar/06 AltLd
G. Tiger, Esq. 28/Jan/06 AltLd
Hidden ??/2006 -
kenneM 17/Dec/05 Lead

Climbed with Moony around Dec 05- long day and first proper route on the Ben

with Moony
Hidden ?/Mar/05 2nd
decs ?/Mar/05 AltLd
with Fran
Hidden 27/Feb/05 AltLd O/S
Nicos 25/Feb/05 Lead O/S
with tom knight
James Humble ?/Feb/05 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches, it was pretty cool, good ice fall at the start bit of walk in the middle

with Spewy Tom
Hidden ?/Feb/05 AltLd
Dave Kerr 27/Jan/05 AltLd
with Kenny Grant
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd
Nick Wallis ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/04 AltLd O/S
Yourlead 20/Feb/04 AltLd

Thin ice andnot much in the chimney

with Graham Penny
ruggystunts ?/Feb/04 2nd
with Sean
seanyt ?/Feb/04 Lead
abbeywall ??/2004 AltLd
niall_mac ?/Apr/03 AltLd
Hidden 11/Mar/03 2nd
Ann S ?/Mar/03 2nd

Following Guide

with Guide
dthomson ??/2003 -
with paul klauza
Richard Weller 06/Apr/02 AltLd
with Nick Cruden, Keith Morris
Gudge ?/Apr/02 AltLd O/S
Jamie B ?/Apr/01 AltLd
with Simon Franks
Hidden ?/Mar/01 -
Hidden ??/2001 AltLd
Phill_ Thompson ?/Feb/00 AltLd
with Matt Newman, Lucy Prins
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
akhughes ??/2000 Solo O/S
ill_bill ?/Feb/99 AltLd
Hidden 01/Mar/98 -
johnkeith ??/1998 AltLd
with G. Callander
Hidden ?/Mar/97 -
Hidden 09/Jan/97 AltLd O/S
Marti999 ??/1997 AltLd
AB1965 15/Mar/96 -
Mickdenali ?/Mar/95 Lead
with Mick Cadwell, Gail Waller
Hidden ?/Feb/95 Solo O/S
Mick King 15/Apr/94 Lead
with Stu Hardacre
Hidden 28/Mar/92 AltLd
mark-abz ?/Mar/92 AltLd
with Simon K
Dave Musgrove Jnr 26/Feb/92 -
with Nick Ashton
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
scree ?/Feb/87 -
with Phil Coates
Hidden 31/Jan/87 AltLd
Campbell42 17/Mar/86 AltLd O/S
with Kim Wainwright
John Marsland 18/Feb/86 Lead
with Dave Soles
Lone Rider 08/Feb/86 Solo O/S
Martin Haworth ?/Feb/85 Lead O/S
with Amazonian woman
Richard Weller 14/Jan/85 AltLd
with Ant Osborne
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1985 AltLd
with Duncan Bond
Bruce Kerr 14/Feb/84 AltLd
with Dave Bartle
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
Mark Kemball 25/Feb/81 AltLd
with Mark Boon
uphillnow ?/Feb/80 AltLd

Fine condition. John Page also on rope

with Al Bennett
Hidden ?/Mar/77 AltLd
Derek Ryden 31/Dec/75 AltLd O/S
with Martin Smith
Sean Kelly ?/Dec/75 AltLd

Dropped a 'Terror' exiting the final chimney, and descent down Five Fingers Gully in wild weather!

with Norman Ingham
Hidden ??/1975 -
mikej 07/Apr/69 AltLd
with Wil Hurford
mikej 06/Apr/69 AltLd dnf

Did first pitch only.

with Wil Hurford
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High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Votes cast 38
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set