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Excellent Gabbro crags that should be easier to find with the new 2013 guidebook! Best on afternoons and summer evenings.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a nest site at Mur Cenhinen. Please do not climb the following routes until 1st August; 'Sunset Rib' to 'Regan' inclusive. This is the extreme right hand side of the main cliff and the left side of the seaward cliff.

There is a Ravens' nests adjacent  'Binary Fission' (Craig Hebog), please avoid this route 1st March to 1st July and minimise disturbance in these areas. 

45m. The big line weaving up left of the main corner is essentially rambling ledge shuffling with an old peg and a hard crux on top, but you've all seen the photo of Emma on it in the old CC guide so it needs to be done. Start left of the corner and climb up into it, follow it for 3m then traverse a long way back left with little gear until the right-trending ramp is reached. Place good gear in a block then diminishing RPs to reach the peg which is suitably awful, but other gear protects a stiff crux above it. Finish rightwards across the corner more conventionally.

FA. M.Boysen, A.Williams 23/Aug/1968.

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Ed morris 16 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Mad Mutt is better.
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βeta: Mad Mutt is better.

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Guidebooks for St. David's Head West

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Salty Dog

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Stackpole Head)

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