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Patellaectomy*** E1 5c

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[A severe case of belay midge depression on Patellaectomy, effort Stelmach!, 3 kb]23m. Start below and left of bars. Climb the hanging chimney and make your way to the bars. Swing in a monkey fashion onto the bars and up onto the shorter bar. Awkward mantle, bolt and up to top. double bolt belay.
C Parkin, M Robinson 23/Apr/1992

Ticklists: Dinorwig Essentials, a State of Slate.

Photo: A severe case of belay midge depression on Patellaectomy, effort Stelmach! © Andrew Stelmach
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 65 logbooks, and on 24 wishlists.

EXTREME CAUTION REQUIRED!! The left hand pillar of the bridging start is detached and precarious, was moving around whilst I was climbing. Would seriously recommend not climbing this route until it is stabilised.
James Oakes - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/14 with Gareth Hooson

Tried this shortly before it rained. Couldn't even make the first bridging move before I rested on a cam in the crack, which fell out after 3 seconds. Joss (belaying) fell flat on his arse on a big pointy rock and hurt himself, I nearly twisted an ankle in the rubble but was ok. Crap experience!
jsmcfarland - Lead dnf - 27/Jul/14 with Joss

duncandarnell - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/14

Stone fall to the left and unstable rock on upper left hand side of chimney .
greenclimb - Lead O/S - 29/May/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/14

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/13 with Will, Gwen Thomson

Wicked moves but slippery and frustrating!! Hard for the grade.
kyaizawa - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/13 with Luke Cullum

Didn't have the strength left to get up the groove, perfect slot for a nutkey to stand on though! There is also a small (mobile phone sized) block loose on the arete of the upper groove
lcullum7 - 2nd dog - 25/Jul/13 with Ky Aizawa

Hidden - 2nd dog - 14/Jul/13

Took an inverted whipper above bars due to mis-read. Got it 2nd time. Solid at E1. 5c into 5c most of way!
Fragmod - Lead - 14/Jul/13

Cool moves, and well protected, but wouldn't want to fall onto the bars!
Dan Geh - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/13 with Thomas Geh

tgeh - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/13 with dan geh

wynaptomos - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/13

Awesome climb! Mental bar action, preceded by some interesting back and footing. Owen and Dunc came up on second at the same time, making for good fun on the bars. However, this was marred slightly by an insane midge-fest. Strenuous start.
Andy S - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Duncan D, Owen P

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13

wolf.leeb - Lead rpt - 02/Jun/13 with Alexis

Funky route..
wolf.leeb - Lead dog - 01/Jun/13 with Huw

had to use a sling to get to the second bar, way above my grade!
JamesLloyd - 2nd dog - 25/May/13

air - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with James

Have wanted to do this route for years. It certainly met expectations. Great fun. The top bar isn't held in by anything!
Will Hunt - Lead O/S - 24/Nov/12 with Alison Ellwood

Fun, interesting, hard, weird, awkward, unique, amazing route! Slightly damp when I started. Slipped whilst contemplating the wet jug at the top of the first chimney section and fell onto a nut above the first bolt (first proper lead fall - not as scary as I was expecting). Got straight back on and finished it fine, despite light hail that started when I was on the double bars which turned full on for Dougie seconding. Dougie pointed out whilst climbing that the short spike above the two spikes is alarmingly loose...
shed_hed - Lead dog - 26/Oct/12 with Dougie Swanson-Low

In the sleet and snow... The last bar is pretty loose, make sure you pull hard on it or not at all.
dswansonlow - 2nd O/S - 26/Oct/12 with Darren McMaster

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/12

Nick Nitro - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Nadeem

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Sophie Nunn

Sophie Nunn - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Toby, Ceridwen Hutchinson

Found this tricky, awkward and keeps coming. Superb!
ksjs - Lead O/S - 23/May/12 with goosebump

dan ely - Lead O/S - 21/May/12 with tony (army)

rustaldo - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Alex

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/12

Shimmied up the right arete of the chimney (figured fleece wasn't going to provide much friction!). Perhaps easier is to move out onto the face as second did.
slacky - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Ben

Yong_Welsh - Lead O/S - 16/Nov/11

Not hard,just awkward and hilarious. I like!
smallerrich - 2nd O/S - 14/Nov/11 with Greg

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11

E1? Seemed desperate for the grade. A lot of 5c, only the grade kept me on the top rockover. Rain whilst stood on the first bars added to the entertainment, as did I with the crowd watching. As someone else 3* but never again!
philhilo - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with misha

The most unusual route I've ever done! Great fun but pretty hard all the way with the crux at the very top, solid E2 5c. Would be a spicy E3 without the top two bolts (the first bolt isn't really necessary anyway). A good lead from Phil, particularly as there was a passing shower just as he got established on the double bars.
Misha - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Phil

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/11 with Claire Duffield

centurion05 - 2nd - 17/Aug/11

Was really enjoying it, then as I was trying to stand up on the top bar, I pulled off the flake above and landed back on the bar. Pulled on the ab rope after that to get out!
HIGHTOWER - Lead dog - 17/Aug/11 with Dave Gleave

Memorable, for mainly the right reasons.
Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 27/May/11 with Louise Rodgers

barni - Lead O/S - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/10 with ed-v12

best e1 on slate
david morse - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/10 with Lawrence

Odd route. tricky chimneying to begin. then a series of strange mantles on pipes. good fun.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 10/May/10 with Laura Perry

good fun, a must for all climbers, get yourself on it!
chrisdavies - Lead - 02/May/10 with I.LL.JONES

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/10

metal arms - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09

this is the first 3* route i never wanna go near again... did it in the dark. dogged a bit grr. jump for the 2nd bar was well scary!
adam06 - 2nd - 26/Apr/09 with chris white

luke1986 - Lead O/S - Jul/08

Sgt. Vest - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/08 with sophie wilmes

sonnenstern - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/08 with Will Malcolm

KKilroy - Lead O/S - 2008 with Luke

Carly - Lead - 14/Oct/07 with Richard

the juicy dangler - Lead dog - 01/May/07

mynyddresident - 2007 with tony

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/05

Dringo - 2005

Brown - Lead O/S - Feb/03 with Alex

MjrTom - Lead O/S - Jun/99

Ched - Lead O/S - 1995 with Dave

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/93 with Simon Coles

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Stopsy, Craigyboy13, Chi Cheng, ianstevens, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, mfisher, jdawg_85, Hidden, Dan Lane, ben360, rustaldo, Hidden, Paul McCallum, willotheward, Hidden, gd303uk, Hidden, Ewan Russell, Hidden, Hidden, ChalkBall

Voting
Total votes cast 103
hard E20 of 36
E21 of 36
easy E211 of 36
hard E116 of 36
E18 of 36
easy E10 of 36
hard HVS0 of 36
HVS0 of 36
easy HVS0 of 36
hard 6a0 of 34
6a0 of 34
easy 6a0 of 34
hard 5c26 of 34
5c7 of 34
easy 5c1 of 34
hard 5b0 of 34
5b0 of 34
easy 5b0 of 34
3 Stars27 of 33
2 Stars6 of 33
1 Star0 of 33
0 Stars0 of 33
Bag of .....0 of 33
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Style of ascent

Lead49 of 65 (75.4%)
Followed12 of 65 (18.5%)
Unknown4 of 65 (6.2%)

'Climbed'9 of 65 (13.8%)
clean O/S46 of 65 (70.8%)
clean rpt2 of 65 (3.1%)
dogged7 of 65 (10.8%)
dnf1 of 65 (1.5%)