60m, 2 pitches.
A short, and not very good, approach pitch leads to an excellent steep right facing corner with varied climbing.
Pitch 1. 20m. Start on a small ledge 5m below a tree. Climb poor rock up to the tree and then traverse left to the base of a short hand/fist crack. Climb this crack to the base of the main corner. Belay on slings around a large flake. 5.9.
Pitch 2. 40m. A handcrack leads to a section of interesting stemming to a poor rest under a small roof. Negotiate this roof (crux) and continue up the sustained finger crack. Eventually the crack widens and the difficulties ease. 5.11b.
Descend by abseil from the fixed anchor at the top of the second pitch. Or continue up a poor third pitch (rarely done) and walk off (climber's left).
Pitch 1. 20m. Start on a small ledge 5m below a tree. Climb poor rock up to the tree and then traverse left to the base of a short hand/fist crack. Climb this crack to the base of the main corner. Belay on slings around a large flake. 5.9.
Pitch 2. 40m. A handcrack leads to a section of interesting stemming to a poor rest under a small roof. Negotiate this roof (crux) and continue up the sustained finger crack. Eventually the crack widens and the difficulties ease. 5.11b.
Descend by abseil from the fixed anchor at the top of the second pitch. Or continue up a poor third pitch (rarely done) and walk off (climber's left).
Mark Chapman and Jim Donini 1974.
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Route of Interest
Blues Riff
Grade: 5.11b ***
(Phobos/Deimos Cliff)