Restricted Access
The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
An impressive and bold line. Start under a rounded groove capped by a tiny overhang with twin threads in it. Boldly work up the groove to the tiny overhang and twin threads. Move past the overhang and up past a small tree to a thread out to the right (this is on the line of Run for Home). Climb direct, passing two more threads, until it is possible to make a thin traverse left. © Rockfax
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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Vulture Squadron
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Wintour's Leap)