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|Somerset > Cheddar Gorge North >
|Will Stanton|| 8a |
<< Me No Stereotype
Still Wanton >>
|18m. Climb the awkward groove to the 2nd bolt and the matched sika crimp (old jug), a couple of really hard moves gain the 3rd bolt and an airy traverse right to the base of the roof. If you're feeling tired here, forget it as you're not going to get much back at this 'rest' ! The roof is fantastic and has been climbed with at least 4 different sequences, so no excuses if you're tall, short, week or a skater - there's a way for everyone.
CAUTION: Be careful on the short solo to the belay ledge - there is a lot of lose rock around so advisable not to stand below climbers or under ropes when they are being pulled.|
M Crocker 11/Oct/1990
Ticklists: Cheddar Eight's, Top 10 hard Bristol Ticks, South West 8's.
Photo: Tom on the hard crimp moves © James Marshall
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.
This climb is in 7 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.
Classic Chedder 8a. The old jug (now sika crimp by 2nd bolt) would have made the route a lot easier, but I would keep it at hard 8a rather than 'give away' 8a+.
James Marshall - Lead RP - 05/Jun/14 with wendy
Hard and intense but great climbing. This route rewards patience and determination! I had run out of patience..and skin, so it was good to do it. The crimp moves at second bolt are desperate.
Wendy - Lead RP - 22/May/14 with James Marshall
Hidden - Lead RP - 21/May/14
Very close today but unfortunately no cigar!
_m.cox_ - Lead dog - 18/Oct/13 with max aryton, Ben West
Just scraping in at 8a+ I think. Felt really tired on it though after too many days on.
Cailean Harker - Lead RP - 16/Aug/13 with Dave Pickford
Great route! I think first ascent since the jug came off. Probably F8a+ now. Thanks to Al for the belay.
westyb3 - Lead RP - 08/Aug/11 with Alan Sarhan
Hidden - TR dog - 2007
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
josh baldwin, Hidden, _m.cox_