18m. Climb the awkward groove to the 2nd bolt and the matched sika crimp (old jug), a couple of really hard moves gain the 3rd bolt and an airy traverse right to the base of the roof. If you're feeling tired here, forget it as you're not going to get much back at this 'rest' !
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CAUTION: Be careful on the short solo to the belay ledge - there is a lot of lose rock around so advisable not to stand below climbers or under ropes when they are being pulled.

M Crocker 11/Oct/1990

Ticklists: Cheddar Eight's, Top 10 hard Bristol Ticks, South West 8's.


ClimberDateStyle
PeterDawson 23/Jun Lead RP
quiffhanger 23/Jun Lead RP

Fun battle against skin and conditions. Very sustained for a non-eliminate at Cheddar. I'm taking 8a+ given I didn't pre-clip the bolt by the crimps making for a v tough clip and a nameless fatty (he tells me it's due to his power, but I'm not so sure) pulled of a v useful hold on the last section. Doesn't make the moves much harder (I think it climbs better now and the hold [an upside down crozzly-spike] was a skin shredder) but it does turn a poor rest into an awful rest.

_m.cox_ 19/Apr/15 Lead RP

Good to come back and finish this off at last

James Marshall 05/Jun/14 Lead RP

Classic Chedder 8a. The old jug (now sika crimp by 2nd bolt) would have made the route a lot easier, but I would keep it at hard 8a rather than 'give away' 8a+.

with wendy
Wendy 22/May/14 Lead RP

Hard and intense but great climbing. This route rewards patience and determination! I had run out of patience..and skin, so it was good to do it. The crimp moves at second bolt are desperate.

Hidden 21/May/14 Lead RP
Ged Desforges ??/2014 Lead RP

You should have flashed it Jim! 8a+ I reckon. One of the best 8's in cheddar. Which isn't saying much I suppose. But definitely worth doing. A good old power endurance battle.

_m.cox_ 18/Oct/13 Lead dog

Very close today but unfortunately no cigar!

with max aryton, Ben West
Cailean Harker 16/Aug/13 Lead RP

Just scraping in at 8a+ I think. Felt really tired on it though after too many days on.

with Dave Pickford
westyb3 08/Aug/11 Lead RP

Great route! I think first ascent since the jug came off. Probably F8a+ now. Thanks to Al for the belay.

with Alan Sarhan
Hidden ??/2007 TR dog
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
brices, serby, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, quiffhanger, Hidden, Hidden, derico, Hidden, josh baldwin, Cassidy
Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Redpoint
Dogged