140m, 3 pitches. Weaves up a streak to the left of Watchtower Chinney with good but serious climbing on all 3 pitches.
P1 (20) - start 15m left of the chimney. Up smooth slab with little gear, passing a delicate mantleshelf onto an obvious boss. Continue to finally get good cams. Continue in the same line, with steeper section up cracks to belay.
P2 (19) - step left off belay, delicate flake up to easier ground. Continue up, tricky move through overlap at obvious undercut then trend right to gain Rotten Row and belay via mantleshelf (as per ‘Afternoon Sun’)
P3 (17) - step left from belay, direct through bulge then up ledges. Continue direct with steep section onto headwall, and up this keeping right of the diagonal crack.
Descent - walk off or abseil. Abseil chains as for Fly Lichen Eagle are easiest. There are also bolts at the finish of Argonaughts, from where a 55m abseil will reach the 3rd belay on Siren. Further abseil anchor on slab below (2nd belay on Hot Flap)

Robin Miller 1982.

Feedback Always Hide βeta

20 users have logged this